GT i-drive 2.0 Build

[flyinmonkie]

im wondering if i can stick with the 3 speed shifter on the left and have it jump up a rear cluster instead, say 11/15/22 or something.

Dec,

You could measure the distance between your front chain rings, then pull you rear cassette apart. Pick the 3 sizes you want, and cut some pipe to make the spacing match the front chain rings. Then put only those three sprockets back on the rear cluster and use either more of the pipe or a single speed spacer kit to fill up the rest of the space on the hub. Then the front shifter should work. Not sure if it will work with a hub motor, unless it takes a cassette. If it takes a thread on freewheel, then that won't work. Just an idea. I might actualy try it on my bike as well, to do the same and put the shifter on the left side and limit the shifter to 3 clicks.

Another idea is to use a grip shift and just put it on the left side of the handle bar. It might turn the opposite way then it would, but should work.

Clay

 

[dbaker]

Get a dial indicator from Harbor Freight (less than $10) and use your bike frame

 

[deecanio]

Hi Clay,

im not a fan of the grip shifts myself, quick fire trigger is the ticket for me.
i thought on stripping and selecting three then spacing them to meet the front triggers index, but the hubs defo a screw on job and i dont really need to do it, I'll just screw on a cassette and try the 11/12/14 or whatever until i find the best match for the existing 3 up front i have, if i can get away with it i'll change my front three to be 22/32/42, this gives me a smaller crank and posssibility for bash ring which i cant get for my 52t roadie set.
all good i recon for better pedal assist, oh my 3540 is officially laced!!

D

 

[chroot]

@deecanio - congrats for your HS3540 laced. I can't wait get my 3540 lacing and new strongest rim this saturday.

 

[johnrobholmes]

All good methods for home truing, for sure. Another trick you can use is to pluck the spokes and listen for loose ones. Tighten them up to sound similar to the other ones.


I figured it must have been the rear that let go! Better get that front fixed before jumping more, the last thing you want is to taco your front!

 

[GCinDC]

a couple scenes from replacing the freewheel, truing the rear wheel, replacing a washer, replacing the missing spoke on the front tire and truing it:
[youtube]RSF_jn3f0fo[/youtube]
thanks to amber and jrh for the truing tips. the cog looked ok, the chain not so nice, but pedaling now it doesn't skip, so i think that was the freewheel...

oh yeah. i can't tell what the clicking sound at the beginning is. paging FULLTHROTTLE.

and i wish i could say that all is smooth now, but it's not. it freewheels nicely, but pedaling is very grainy. never felt that before. i think it's something in the rear derailleur.

this was from friday, mounted on bottom bracket, first with extensions that gradually moved. then removed (chainring visible) and fixed.
[youtube]nO9OBoGTcMM[/youtube]

 

[GCinDC]

and this was on the comfort bike, 9c 6x10, hauling 5 including myself (two not mine - my wife's pulling my son on another trailer bike).
[youtube]I3zK4ebM5o8[/youtube]

 

[full-throttle]

Did the creaking sound disappear once you replaced the freewheel?

If its still there try to find out where is it coming from by spraying WD40 at:
- both shock mounts
- dogbone that attaches the frame to the eccentric
- eccentric
- bottom bracket
- main pivot

so pretty much every join, once the creaking stops you know where it come from
(try to point the spray away from brakes)

the eccentric on mine tends to loosen itself and make a similar sound after a couple of hard landings, you can tighten it if it does

 

[flyinmonkie]

Is it a creak and does it happen when you pedal or bounce on the pedals? Like fullthrottle said, hit all the joints with lube and hopefully you find it. If it is still there, clean your frame really good and check the bottom bracket welds and frame stays for cracks. Hope it is a squeaky joint.

Clay

 

[amberwolf]

i can't tell what the clicking sound at the beginning is.

I have heard that sound in cranks before when the bearing ring is cracked. If they're "sealed bearings" instead of loose balls, it can happen--I have a Specialized bike here that was abandoned with me partly for that reason (and for a cracked frame).

and i wish i could say that all is smooth now, but it's not. it freewheels nicely, but pedaling is very grainy. never felt that before.

Is it grainy-feeling in the cranks themselves? It's possible that while the bike is upside down gunk from the bottom of the BB shell got into the bearings and is now grinding in the races. Or if it is a cracked bearing ring (race) that bits of it are in the race/bearing path and doing the same thing.

Glad the zipties worked; they sure made life easier for me when I did that. I keep telling myself I'm going to build a truing stand, and I never do it.

 

[chroot]

Go for it, make a truing stand and it would be very worth while for you. Speaking of save your money on the labor and you could do part time provide service truing + balance for your area.

I dropped off my HS3540 motor at ilia brouk last saturday. He homemade truing stand by using bicycle exercise stand and it was clever idea.

Here the old picture (Look at the homemade truing stand)

 

[GCinDC]

spraying WD40..

you answered! the page worked. thanks!

Issue 1: chain skipping: FIXED. (must have been the freewheel)
Issue 2 (pre-existing): CREAKING. not fixed. crank doesn't seem loose. quickly, this morning, i sprayed WD40 all inside this ring:

no change. even if bearing are sealed, can the WD40 get in (and require re-grease soon)? or do sealed bearing just get replaced? i've been afraid to use the WD40 for that reason, figuring dirty grease is better than none. that whole part (is it the BB?) should probably be rebuilt! i ran out of WD40, so try more places and carry on until the creaking stops.

the eccentric on mine tends to loosen itself and make a similar sound after a couple of hard landings, you can tighten it if it does

googled "gt idrive eccentric" and found these awesome rebuild instructions (login req'd to see images).

it's probably worth a go. i'll need some courage. and a weekend. any particular grease?

I have heard that sound in cranks before when the bearing ring is cracked.

yikes.

Issue 3: (new): grainy, or crunchy pedaling. nothing to do w/ creaking sound. happens only when pedaling. seems to come from derailleur, perhaps out of alignment. might have to do w/ new freewheel though too. doesn't seem to come from BB.

you could do part time provide service truing + balance for your area.

LOL. Thanks, C, but time is limited, and it's nice to be able to true the wheel without removing it from the bike. I rarely flip the bike cause it's hard on the seat (and pia over the mudguard), not to mention the accessories on the handlebar, but worthwhile for that work...

 

[dbaker]

Also check crank bolts. The crank arms may be moving slightly on the bottom bracket axle.

 

[Alan B]

Get a folding bike-stand. Well worth it, can save your back and make working on bike easier and more pleasant.

 

[flyinmonkie]

Greg,

The gritty feeling in the rear derailleur could just be dirt. Have you pulled the chain off and cleaned it really well lately? With all the winter ridding I'm sure it could use a good clean. After I clean my drive line on all my bikes, (chain, sprockets, cassette, derailleur) they always feel like new. A good clean and a lube on all the joints with triflow or just about any lube from the LBS.

Clay

 

[full-throttle]

Yeah no worries,

I should probably add that WD40 is for diagnosing the problem only.

Oh and check shock mounting bolts - the top one snapped a couple of times on my old frame, still ride-able just rattles a bit.

 

[Hyena]

I should probably add that WD40 is for diagnosing the problem only.

Rubbish, there's nothing you can't fix with regular application of either WD40 or duct tape :lol:

 

[full-throttle]

Agree. WD40, duct tape, zip ties should be a part of every toolbox.

Its not WHAT you use, its HOW you use it

 

[GCinDC]

replaced the chain. OMG! it's quiet and glides! actually feels easier to pedal!

LBS mechanic who sold me the chain said the old one was WAY stretched out. toast. he also said the chain should be replaced every time the freewheel is replaced.

he also said: "oh wow, you put WD40 in there? yeah, WD40 shouldn't be used on a bike. it's like death to bike parts..."

reminds me of that sludge on the inside/back of my old freewheel. a couple months ago i'd sprayed wd40 in there. then had it (force) re-greased (rather than cleaned/dried), and that new grease never had a chance. a couple months later it was sludge...

don't mean to start a WD40 war, but thought it'd be worth clarifying the point. it's HOW it's used...

I should probably add that WD40 is for diagnosing the problem only.

Rubbish, there's nothing you can't fix with regular application of either WD40 or duct tape :lol:

so, for the record, Hyena, you've been breathing too much WD40 fumes, no?

anyway the CREAKING had gone away. i couldn't reproduce it in the shop. nevertheless, the dude said he'd disassemble/regrease eccentric for ~$100 (but @ hourly rate :| ) but not to worry about it if it felt smooth. i'm not sure if i hit the bb directly with it... anyway, no rush now, and i can make an appointment for same day service...

awesome newish LBS 4 blocks from work, bicycleSPACE, great shop, very open. friendly attitude!

 

[dbaker]

I didn't see any electric bike stuff on their website. Good to hear they did not hit you with an attitude about electric stuff. The freewheels we use are not very good quality but the only ones with 11 teeth. Regular grease/oil will be key to a long life. IIRC there is a tool for checking chain stretch. Guess I will have to get one but new chains are only $12 on sale!

 

[Hyena]

so, for the record, Hyena, you've been breathing too much WD40 fumes, no?

Perhaps, I have been wearing it as deodorant lately.
I'm in negotations with the patent owners to see if I can release my own cologne based on the smell.
It'll be called 'Displacement, by Hyena'

"If you're looking for girly flowery fragrances look elsewhere, Displacement by Hyena is manly scent for manly men" Editor, GQ Magazine
:lol:

 

[Alan B]

WD40 works great on fishing lures, too. Apparently the fish like it. Something's always been fishy about WD40.

 

[bandaro]

wd 40 works great on anything, that guy at the lbs didnt have a clue what he was talking about. As hyena said, wd 40 and duct tape, you can make/stop things moving with those two tools, so why use anything else?

as for a chain stretch tester, its called a ruler... line it up along the chain (no need to even take it off the bike) and use the inches side. chain pitch is 1/2 inch between pins, so see how far off the 10" mark is. think 0.5% stretch was due for a replacement, so just under 1/4 of a link over 13". alternatively when the holes are no longer round.

 

[GCinDC]

wd 40 works great on anything, that guy at the lbs didnt have a clue what he was talking about.

join the fan club here.

FWIW: WD40 is a "rust preventative solvent and de-greaser" and should not be used on chains. fish with it. floss with it. but i wouldn't be using it in place of grease, particularly in bearings...

Also, interestingly enough: WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement – 40th Attempt" and "WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients."

 

[johnrobholmes]

For future reference, finding creaks is a matter of elimination. The I drive is particularly difficult at diagnosing because of the bottom bracket.

My suggestions on that bike if it the creak comes back:

Remove the chain and ride the bike. Pretend to pedal while standing. Mostly just jump on the pedals in both right and left foot forward positions. If the creak is coming from the BB or the cranks, it will show up when you jump down. If it only creaks once until you rotate the cranks, it is likely the BB and crank interference. If it creaks every time it is likely the BB eccentric or suspension mounts. No creak, signs point to chain or rear hub assembly.

It could also be part of the front end too. No doubt when you ride far enough away from the LBS the creak will come back :lol: When I had my Idrive it had a creaking problem that was traced back to the upper shock mount. The top bolt ended up breaking and trashing the frame. They fixed it for the 2001 and after models.