Hacking a Couple Stromers

[GCinDC]

I currently own a ST1 and I need more speed I was looking at swapping out the motor and more or less gutting out all the wiring and replace everything and adding a throttle, new controller likely to be placed in the down tube and add a CA with a triangle bag with homemade Samsung battery pack. I am really new to the DIY side of all this and I interested in all suggestions.

hey CptPalmer, my first thought was: sell the ST1 for decent money and start from scratch.

my next thought was, the stromer's are well built ebikes, so you get a lot that you won't get in another doner bike, so it's a tough call.

one big issue will be fitting another motor in those drop outs: (from p3)

i could aways get it running with another motor.. here's the hs540

but do you see that? the freewheel side is in tight and the wheel's more or less centered, but the disc is over an inch off, and i'll need a million washers:

my rule maxes out at 153 and is at least 5mm short:

once you fit another motor tho, you'll also need torque arms. they're no doubt better than a standard alum frame, but the one side has a cut for the torque sensor which will likely reduce its strength:

depending on much faster you wanted to go, my suggestion would be to rewire the existing motor like i did. i'd wanted to drill holes in it to vent, but the way it's press fitted, i'd worry about any holes weakening it tho.

so i don't know. what'd you decide to do?

 

[CptPalmer]

Ya the drop outs are 157mm. Lots of washers

 

[amberwolf]

If anyone here with a Stromer bike / wiring harness could post a connection diagram of which pin on the LCD connectors connects to which pin on the motor connectors, and to the brake lever switch(es), throttle, etc., I'd appreciate it.

I have a (probably broken) Mountain 33 motor and LCD (from the same bike probably but I don't have any info on which bike that was), and before I just gut the controller I'd like to see if I can make the system work.

Siince all I have is the motor/controller/wheel, and the LCD unit, but nothing in between or outside of that, I'd have to make a wiring harness, but I'm willing to do that. I'll probably also have to make an analog device to spoof the torque sensor, possibly out of an old electronic weight scale if I can actually make a torque sensor for it, otherwise just a voltage input (or resistance).

I'm sure I'll have to do a fair bit of work to get to a point of testing it out as it was orignally intended to work, but I'd like to try.

The thread with pics of what I have is here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=86600
and is where I'll be posting any info / results I get.

 

[amberwolf]

Sorry to bump, but...I'd like to get this working for Bill, preferably with the original controller/LCD (at least to test it).

Any wiring info?

 

[amberwolf]

I got the motor and the display opened up, some pics and some inferred information here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=86600&p=1269969#p1269969

 

[Firedog]

This is a great thread with good information; well documented. Thanks GCinDC and to all who contributed.

I ran across two TDCM Ulta, power 48, 36v, 500w complete rear wheels and bought them for a few dollars! I pretty sure they came off Stomer ST1 ebikes. Since Stomer dealer replaces parts rather than fix them, I suspect they have some defect although the hubs and the 9 speed cassette look new. I bought them to learn; not expecting to use them.

The hub width is 160mm so it would be hard to use them in anything but a Stomer frame. One exception is a Santana tandem and the Stomer wheel fits my Santana perfectly. Even the 9 speed index shifter mates perfectly.

I added an inexpensive 36v 800w front hub to my Santana two years ago and it is a joy to ride. We've done thousands of miles. The Stomer motor is much higher quality and I want consider changing the Santana to it and to rear drive.

There are two approaches. Since the controllers are built into the TDCM hubs, I need get the other components. I have no idea what is necessary, but I assume they are expensive. I'd like to use throttle only, and I don't know it that is even possible with a Stromer set up.

The other way is to open the hubs, gut the controller and just bring out the 3 power leads and the 5 Hall sensor wires and connect to a external controller. It's be done before and I think that would be fairly straight forward, but more work than the first idea.

Any suggestions or comment would be greatly appreciated.

 

[amberwolf]

For anyone that has one, and needs to know waht the controller is like inside, there's pics/etc here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=86600&p=1463159#p1463159

 

[Lebowski]

What are the dropout for the ST1 motor ? 135 mm ?

 

[amberwolf]

I think that's what mine is, but it might be more like 140-145; I"d have to measure the fatbike fork I had it in to be sure. (can't measure the axle directly). I had to spread the fork to fit the motor in it.

EDIT: looks like it's actually about 160mm!

 

[Lebowski]

Ok thanks ! Than the one on the local auction site is not for me...

 

[HK12K]

If anyone needs parts there is a used ST2 on my local Craigslist. Totally reasonable $6500 asking price as well.

/s

 

[amberwolf]

If anyone needs parts there is a used ST2 on my local Craigslist.

Too bad we have no idea where that is. :/

 

[public_enemy]

The display has 2 cables and one of them is not usable on my bike is it for regenerative brake or throttle perhaps it has 3 pins

 

[amberwolf]

The display has 2 cables and one of them is not usable on my bike is it for regenerative brake or throttle perhaps it has 3 pins

what is "your bike"?

which specific model of stromer is it?

 

[public_enemy]

Stromer st1 2015 model

https://www.elektrofahrrad24.de/stromer-et-st1-display

You can see here

 

[amberwolf]

well, that link tells us what the *display* is, but it doesn't say anything about your actual bike.

the questions below are to help determine whetehr that connecotr can be used for you or not, and what it can be used for.

based on your last reply, but to verify, do you have a stromer st1 bike?

if not, then this display isn't intended for your bike and i don't think it will even function on your bike at all, unless you also have the batery, motor, etc, from the same bike the display came from, also moutned on your bike.

if you do have a stromer st1 bike, then have you owned it since it was new, or purchased it used?

was the "not usable" connector covered with a cap, and the wire secured to the frame, when you bought it new?

or was it just hanging there loose and uncapped / unplugged when you bought it used?

if the connector was just hanging loose, and the bike was used, it means something was removed from the bike that used to plug in there.

if the 2015 stromer st1 bike you have doesn't have a throttle, but the stromer st1 in 2015 did come wiht one, then that's wht is missing. it is probably just a standard hallsensor type throttle, and a litte experimentation can determine the wiring, or you can see if the place you linked also carries the spare throttle for that specific bike so you can just plug it in and go.

if the 2015 stromer st1 bike you have doesnt' have a brake lever, but the stromer st1 in 2015 did come with one, then that's what is missing, and the same applies as the throttle above.


if none of the above applies to you, you must explain exactly and completely exactly what you do have, for us to be able to help.

 

[FiberOptic]

Hello
have anyone experience to connect stromer st2 motor to standart controller?
wires looks to be standart - 3 phases + 5 hole sensors +1 temperature ?
I Hesitate if colors not standart and can burn hole sensors inside...

 

[Daxxie]

Hello
have anyone experience to connect stromer st2 motor to standart controller?
wires looks to be standart - 3 phases + 5 hole sensors +1 temperature ?

I bought a cheap ST1 with a no_com error.
Was pretty sure that it was the controller.

Opened the hub



Removed the controller



Installed cables with Higo screw connectors 3X4mm² for Phase wires and a Higo 6 cable (3 halls, +, G, NTC)






Put the hub back together



Wired up a Phaserunner controller.



Used the TMM sensor for Trq signal and added a PAS magnet





Tried it with the standard battery but wanted a bit more power so decided to build my own.
A very compact 14S5P that would leave a bit more room in the frame so I could place the controller.



What can I say, I tried it @52V/35A and it flies. Quite powerfull.
Added a throttle and a Aux pot meter for on the fly Pas and TRQ settings.

The signal from the TMM is not very solid and in Trq mode the ride is not that smooth.
Still playing with settings in the CA3.

It does run great on PAS.

 

[albertoQ]

I was wondering if the BMS can be reset without the adaptto controller?

mystery solved. there may have been two issues. the lipos i was using were too low, so they were actually dropping off the cliff. lazy mistake. but that didn't explain why the stromer batt wasn't working (which it is now)

i did a system reset on the adaptto controller and she purred like a kitten. actually, wasn't that noisy. this was the adaptto that i was just running on my dh comp, until i got the max-e. so while i had run autodetect on it, it still had all my other configs, except the bms settings which i'd already changed. i took a vid of the settings before, and i'm not sure which it was, but after the reset and another autodetect, ran great with new lipos, and very nicely on the 36V stromer pack, which i really want my wife to use over any lipos, mainly for charging.

maybe some pics/vids tomorrow.

oh, and thanks TSAR for the speed ratio tip. that really helped. i left it at 265 for now and seemed fairly close.