Hall sensor question

[E-Matomo]

1st Hello everyone first time to this forum, greatly excited to see the projects everyone has. Also if this is not thread for this question I apologize and kindly point me in the right direction for my post.

I recently had 2 hall sensors go bad. And I have quite literally spent the last 2 days trying to cross reference the number to no avail. The only thing I know about these hall effects sensors is they get 5v from controller and actually d4op to zero with a magnet.

The number on these sensors is -502F 92969.

Does anyone know of direct replacement for these halls and will they all have to be replaced even in the throttle.

Any help will be welcomed

 

[docw009]

If you google "502F Hall Sensor", this little bit of history pops up and tells you that a Honeywell SS411A will work. That's a hubmotor application though, where the sensor output is on/off. You can buy the SS411 on amazon if you don't want to go to a semiconductor distributor.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=103505

You didn't mention your application, but you did mention throttle, which is a linear application. Thta would be a different sensor.

I have a 49E-507H hall sensor in one of my throttles, and I can find references to 49E being a linear sensor. They're 10 for $6.99 on amazon.

 

[amberwolf]

What are the hall sensors in? A motor? (if so, what kind) A throttle? Ebrake? Gearsensor? Etc? Each device does different things so it may use different types of sensors.


From your description I'd guess a 3-phase brushless motor of some type; most of these use a variation of the SS41 or SS411, a latching bipolar open-collector type.

Allegromicro website has good semitechnical documents describing the different types of sensors, but a summary is:

Latching means it stays in the state set by a magnet passing it. Bipolar means it changes state whenever any magnet pole of sufficient strength passes it (north or south), and the other polarity changes it's state again. Open collector means it grounds the output when activated, and floats the output (open circuit) when not active (so the controller's built in pullup resistors bring them up to their supply voltage, usually 5v).

Some motors use non-latching types, or unipolar types, or both. Non latching means it only stays on as long as the magnet is there. Unipolar means it only responds to one polarity / etc.

The only other thing to worry about is supply voltage--most of these systems use less than 5v (often around 4.5v on the hall power line) so you have to get a sensor that can run on a voltage that low. One that can handle as little as 3v is probably good, most will work up to 20-30v, but you should make sure the one you get can take the worst case voltage it might ever see.