Hall Sensor wires need replacing Help !

[johnjapan]

Hii everyone! Hope everyone is starting to enjoy the weather now!

I purchased a ,bmc ,500/1000w motor from Paul at em3ev

All the hall.sensors cords soldered to the motor need replacing.
How do I desolder the cords connected to the motor if there's a white clear glue substance smothered over all the connections? Can I just melt.through with my gun and remove?
How the hell do I remove the stuff?
What is this stuff called so I can reapply it once I've resoldered everything?

Will send.pictures soon.

Any help us appreciated.

 

[cal3thousand]

Not sure on what you mean by white stuff, but I'm assuming you are referring to the epoxy on the boards.

It comes off real easy with some heat. Put a heat gun on it lightly (don't fry your components though), then go at it with a dental pick or something similar.

Do your work, then you can cover it back up if you wish with some epoxy or High Temp RTV silicone.

 

[e-beach]

All the hall.sensors cords soldered to the motor need replacing.

What happened to them? Why do they need replacing?

How do I desolder the cords connected to the motor if there's a white clear glue substance smothered over all the connections?

To replace all the wires to the hall sensors in the motor you must open the motor....are you saying that you want to replace the hall sensor wires between the controller and the motor axle?

Will send.pictures soon.

Keep the picture file size under 500kb.

Please tell us why your sensor wires need replacing.

 

[DAND214]

purchased a ,bmc ,500/1000w motor from Paul at em3ev

Are you sure? BMC or a MAC?

Cut wires, broken due to a fall?

Where are the pics you promised? they sure will help.

Dan

 

[johnjapan]

purchased a ,bmc ,500/1000w motor from Paul at em3ev

Are you sure? BMC or a MAC?

Cut wires, broken due to a fall?

Where are the pics you promised? they sure will help.

Dan

My bad it's a Mac

The protective barrier that holds all the wires from the axle on the motor that connects.to the controller have begun to strip, so much so that when throttling power is interrupted to point where my ebike is useless.

Pics coming tonight when I get home.

 

[John in CR]

I'd just splice them into the existing wire somewhere in the middle between where they come out of the axle and where they attach to the halls. Then you don't have to disturb that specialty white coating that is probably a silicone based coating if it's pliable or some kind of epoxy if it's hard.

 

[dogman dan]

It's hard to understand what your exact problem is, or where.

One thing I have done several times to repair cut wires at the end of the axle, is pull the wire further into the motor, then make my splices and repairs inside the motor case. If the cut is right at the axle, there is no room for an external splice.

Where the wire exits the axle inside, I have seen white silicone on Muxus motors. This is just pried away gently with a less sharp knife or screwdriver.

 

[johnjapan]

I apologize guys as I feel I may have rushed to explain my problem in the the hopes of getting it resolved quickly I have the Ebike blues and I am eager to get back on the road so I appreciate your patience and help. Ill start from the beginning.


One day I was riding my bike and noticed the power was cutting in and out while throttling.
I got home and decided to check the wires.

I checked the hall sensor wires first GREEN, YELLOW,and BLUE that connects from the motor axle to the controller.
These are connected via bullet connectors.
The yellow one was totally burnt so much so the bullet connector would not stay in the hole as the metal was melted or shaved off photo below**



My only choice was to cut the yellow wire
attach a new wire with a new bullet connector then attach the 2 new wires but soldering them together.



After doing this, It appeared to the fix the problem and I had no further issues with the motor cutting in and out but after about 2 days it starting happening again.
so I re cut and soldered the 2 wires again,

After that it worked again but only for 1 day
now I cant seem to fix it anymore, here is what it looks like now as I removed the shrink tubing,

View attachment 1



my inkling is Im not soldering the 2 wires together properly OR the new wire I'm using is the wrong type to use with the current one thats connected to the motor.
Is it a bad solder joint ? how do i make a perfect or correct solder join when joining 2 wires?
I need some suggestions and hope this helps thanks.

 

[cal3thousand]

First of all, those are phase wires and not hall wires. Hall wires are TINY little wires carrying just a signal to your controller about the position of the motor.

Those phase wires are the ones that supply the actual EMF through the windings which drive the wheel.

Sounds like you might have another issue besides just those phase wires as they don't look too bad. At least not bad enough to stop the bike.

 

[e-beach]

cal3thousand is right...you are working on your phase wires, not your hall wires. Here is a picture of Hall Sensor wires and Phase wires. The Hall Sensor wires are on the left side....the small wires.(There are actually 5 Hall Sensor wires but only 4 can be seen in the picture.) and the Phase wires on the right side.....the three big wires.



I agree with cal3thousand that you may have something else going on besides your Phase wire problem.
As short circuits go, the heat starts closest to the problem. If you are having a problem at that connector it may indicate that you have a problem some where else up or down the wire from the connector.

Is the part of cable you are working on where the wires come out of the axle or where they connect to the controller?

First check all your wires and connectors carefully to see if any other wires or connectors are causing a problem.

Also, can you please describe in detail just what happens when your bike stops working....Does it just stop working? Does it "judder" and not ride smoothly? What is the detail of the motion of the bike when it has it's problem?

 

[johnjapan]

My bad phase wires I mean,

I apply the throttle the wheel turns the motor then jidders for 1 second making a " reeeee ," sound and the motor stops.


If I wait two seconds and reapply the throttle the same thing repeats.
It's frustrating, It's frustrating all the other phase wires seem fine more pics coming.

 

[dogman dan]

It appears to me that you have soldered a green wire and a yellow wire to the same connector. I'm a bit color blind in yellow green though, so maybe I'm confused. The pic doesn't show the other two phase wires, so I'm not sure what you have done.

I'm surprised that didn't blow your controller. It could if you have two phases shorted.

You should have three fat wires, blue green and yellow.

Looks like you don't have long enough wire to do the trick I was talking about, pulling in more wire to avoid stuffing new wire down that tiny hole. but if you can just manage to splice on more thick wire, you can put new connectors on the extensions.

Once a connector starts to heat up, it can then increase in resistance and really get hot. Like you had happen.

 

[Ykick]

I'll take a stab. It looks like you extended the yellow phase power wire with a paralleled chunk of green wire. Fair 'nuff but the continued use when things aren't firing properly most likely damaged the controller MOSFETS.

Open the controller and take a peak and smell inside. You need to learn the difference between power phase/hall signal circuits.

Your general location would also be useful to better help you help yourself.

 

[johnjapan]

It appears to me that you have soldered a green wire and a yellow wire to the same connector. I'm a bit color blind in yellow green though, so maybe I'm confused. The pic doesn't show the other two phase wires, so I'm not sure what you have done.

I'm surprised that didn't blow your controller. It could if you have two phases shorted.

You should have three fat wires, blue green and yellow.

Looks like you don't have long enough wire to do the trick I was talking about, pulling in more wire to avoid stuffing new wire down that tiny hole. but if you can just manage to splice on more thick wire, you can put new connectors on the extensions.

Once a connector starts to heat up, it can then increase in resistance and really get hot. Like you had happen.

No The green wire is the new wire I bought at the store, the yellow wire is the old stuff that routes back to the motor axle,
I couldn't find yellow wire to match but basically each phase wire is divided into 2 wires.

The two wires terminate and join at the end of the bullet connector, that's how i soldered it.
Do I need to shrink wrap each wire individually ? Cause what I did was shrink wrap both in one clump maybe that's why.


I have started to trouble shoot using this controller motor tester
View attachment 2

To test the phase wires I connected here
View attachment 1

and here


The instructions state that once setup up like this and the tester powered, I need to rotate the wheel then all 3 lights should blink or flicker in sequence,
No lights show up at all just the power light.

Grrr its sunnny what a waste of an ebike day.

 

[johnjapan]

I fixed the problem,
What a dufus I am,

These wires


I shrink wrapped together instead of individually wrapping them,
This caused a short I suppose that didn't allow the current to go all the way through
Its working perfect now but we will see if it stays that way for a while.

 

[e-beach]

I fixed the problem,
What a dufus I am,
I shrink wrapped together instead of individually wrapping them,
This caused a short I suppose that didn't allow the current to go all the way through
....

Don't worry about it. We all do stuff like that from time to time. :lol:

I am glad it is working, but I am still a bit confuses. From the pictures it seems like you have 1-Blue phase wire, 1-Green phase wire and 2-Yellow phase wires. Is this true?

 

[dogman dan]

Well, I was clearly wrong, but still right in the end. You did short two phases, just not the way I thought. It sounded like you did something to the phases in the process, by the way the motor acted. My next guess was that you had enough colors changed to mix them up connecting back up.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

 

[johnjapan]

Well, I was clearly wrong, but still right in the end. You did short two phases, just not the way I thought. It sounded like you did something to the phases in the process, by the way the motor acted. My next guess was that you had enough colors changed to mix them up connecting back up.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

You may still be right dogman ! on the way home it happened again, Fawking balls this is annoying !
Here are more pictures of what I am talking about.

Here in this picture you can clearly see there are 2 wires per phase connector.


The yellow one I have had issues with as the bullet connector has worn off.
Ever since Ive farted around with this phase wire / connector there have been problems

All I have done is cut the 2 yellow wires and re attached with 2 NEW green ones I have in stock from the Home depot store
like so


then terminated both wires at the end and soldered them into the bullet connector
like so


What am I doing wrong here?

I will open my controller to check and see for burnt mosfets but I'm pretty sure that's not it as the problem has only started to happen since I changed the connector and started cutting and resoldering that yellow phase wire.

 

[johnjapan]

I have opened the controller up and found no visible damage to any mosfets,
I kind of expected that because the problems started since I tried to fix this damn connector on the yellow phase wires.

 

[999zip999]

Have you change the connectors on both sides ? To test a geared motor with tester you must spin backwards.

 

[johnjapan]

Have you change the connectors on both sides ? To test a geared motor with tester you must spin backwards.

Ah I spun it the wrong way thankyou
After doing it correctly All 3 lights blinked dimly.

They seem to light up all at the same time with no particular pattern.
Heres where they light up



Next I wanted to test the controller so
I slapped the battery on
Connected the MOTOR phase wires to the motor coil option on the testing device
Then I connected the CONTROLLERS phase wires onto the controller main wire option like so





The result


only 4 lights lit up
1 was solid red
2 was a little dim but red
3 was a little dim but red
4 was solid red
the other 2 with X-s did not light up at all


what does that tell you ?

 

[dogman dan]

I've seen similar when the wire order is not right. Shouldn't it be two at a time, but two opposite ones. So the lit lights are two bulbs 180 degrees from each other, not two adjacent ones?

 

[johnjapan]

I've seen similar when the wire order is not right. Shouldn't it be two at a time, but two opposite ones. So the lit lights are two bulbs 180 degrees from each other, not two adjacent ones?

I am not sure what you mean but if you think I am using the tester device incorrectly then is there a manual or info on how to use this device ?

 

[dogman dan]

You know how you have to have the right order, for the motor to run right? Same thing with the tester. And of course, no guarantee that your tester is wired the same as the motor.

So you might try some different combinations to see if any result in all the lights lighting two by two. But each time, two opposing lights, not two adjacent lights.

I have to confess, I'm just winging it every time I use the tester too.

 

[SouthWindDuck]

johnjapan, I just have this short pdf for similar testerView attachment UsingTheLyenEbikeTester.pdf