20Lush
1 µW
Hello, I'm a college student building up an ebike to commute to school from(when we return to campus that is)
What I have so far is the absolute bare minimum you can get for mere instant ramen dollars:
- 1000W 48V unknown max A ebay hub motor china special
- 48v 14ah battery with peak discharge either 50A or 30A the dude who wrote the ebay page has both up there
- A real bastard of a steel frame, bottom drop out, mech disk brake, folding mountain-bike with full suspension that is surprisingly good for $300 (having ridden full suspension 1k+ mountain bikes, I couldn't believe it either when I rode on it)
It weighs in at about Too Heavy without the rider and Way Too Heavy with the rider(160lbs).
All this totaled up to about ~$550USD.
And I love it! I could seriously take this thing to school and ride it until the cheap lugs fall off and the back wheel drops out. I can really hammer it around the block taking corners like a champ and going aggressive on the uphills and the motor will end the day sort of lukewarm.
But unfortunately I also feel the potential. Just today I clocked 34mph on a downhill WOT and pedaling and I felt that the frame still had it in her to keep pushing. Obviously I'm not going to be at the speed while turning, due to these nice and thin 26" bicycle wheels, but in a straight line with minor traffic corrections, this frame can definitely handle more than its BARELY ~20mph cruising speed and frankly anemic loaded performance(uphills and launches and the sort)
So where do I go? 60V? 72V? 2000W? I can't say I really, fully, understand the wattage measurement in the context of ebikes, or even the relationship between the battery, controller, and motor. I have heavy experience in electromechanical systems but I'll be honest our equipment only went as far as our giant lead acid 12v batteries and 1.4hp brushed motors took us. Brushless, gearless, high voltage hub motors are a whole other can of worms that I'm working to learn about. Should've just gotten a mid-drive. Oops.
I would like to be able to squeeze every last bit of performance out of the components I have however I realize that scaling up from here means a new battery and a new battery means I have to toss the dinky little 48v controller and that means soldering and pinning and crimping and running more wires. I'm ready for it, I've got nothing but time and stimulus checks.
TLDR: Something fast, only needs to run for a relatively short distance.
-> Commute Distance: No more than 4 miles total. 3+ definite stopping points(traffic reasons)
-> Desired Speed(Cruise): >25mph
-> Desired Speed(Max): >35mph (If I join the 40 club I'll go get my motorcycle license. Not that I would need one officer.)
-> Local Terrain: Flat for miles until its suddenly 10-12% gradients(willing to actually pedal). No extended gradients over 8% on commute path. Some short little hops but thats it
What I have so far is the absolute bare minimum you can get for mere instant ramen dollars:
- 1000W 48V unknown max A ebay hub motor china special
- 48v 14ah battery with peak discharge either 50A or 30A the dude who wrote the ebay page has both up there
- A real bastard of a steel frame, bottom drop out, mech disk brake, folding mountain-bike with full suspension that is surprisingly good for $300 (having ridden full suspension 1k+ mountain bikes, I couldn't believe it either when I rode on it)
It weighs in at about Too Heavy without the rider and Way Too Heavy with the rider(160lbs).
All this totaled up to about ~$550USD.
And I love it! I could seriously take this thing to school and ride it until the cheap lugs fall off and the back wheel drops out. I can really hammer it around the block taking corners like a champ and going aggressive on the uphills and the motor will end the day sort of lukewarm.
But unfortunately I also feel the potential. Just today I clocked 34mph on a downhill WOT and pedaling and I felt that the frame still had it in her to keep pushing. Obviously I'm not going to be at the speed while turning, due to these nice and thin 26" bicycle wheels, but in a straight line with minor traffic corrections, this frame can definitely handle more than its BARELY ~20mph cruising speed and frankly anemic loaded performance(uphills and launches and the sort)
So where do I go? 60V? 72V? 2000W? I can't say I really, fully, understand the wattage measurement in the context of ebikes, or even the relationship between the battery, controller, and motor. I have heavy experience in electromechanical systems but I'll be honest our equipment only went as far as our giant lead acid 12v batteries and 1.4hp brushed motors took us. Brushless, gearless, high voltage hub motors are a whole other can of worms that I'm working to learn about. Should've just gotten a mid-drive. Oops.
I would like to be able to squeeze every last bit of performance out of the components I have however I realize that scaling up from here means a new battery and a new battery means I have to toss the dinky little 48v controller and that means soldering and pinning and crimping and running more wires. I'm ready for it, I've got nothing but time and stimulus checks.
TLDR: Something fast, only needs to run for a relatively short distance.
-> Commute Distance: No more than 4 miles total. 3+ definite stopping points(traffic reasons)
-> Desired Speed(Cruise): >25mph
-> Desired Speed(Max): >35mph (If I join the 40 club I'll go get my motorcycle license. Not that I would need one officer.)
-> Local Terrain: Flat for miles until its suddenly 10-12% gradients(willing to actually pedal). No extended gradients over 8% on commute path. Some short little hops but thats it