headset ignition switch

[Jonasan-san]

I'd like to install an ignition switch in my headset and I'm wondering if anyone here has done or knows of someone doing this?

Thanks

 

[fill]

Provide some details of the bike battery motor and control system and what your goal is, for example for security or a one button press n go solution?? or are you just looking for a product recommendations?

 

[Jonasan-san]

Provide some details of the bike battery motor and control system and what your goal is, for example for security or a one button press n go solution?? or are you just looking for a product recommendations?

Oh sorry, the bike is a 52v 750w geared hub w/28a controller. I want the ignition for security. If someone knows a product specifically made for this that would be great. I was expecting to have to find a switch with the correct diameter, but I'm unsure of how to tighten it into the headset and also get the cables out of there to the power switch.

 

[fill]

Many ebike switch sets and gear sold on ebay etc are not weatherproof and not wired for High loads at all, 2nd use m/cycle parts however? ( edit i mention high loads for lighting switching not 'ignition')

With many e-bike controllers the display wiring pin #1 red (battery voltage) and pin #2 blue need connecting to turn on the silver box controller, so a hack into the cabling to make/break this connection with a key/ignition switch could work for you.. Tho i cant guarantee your controller is the same?

My 'cunning plan' is to use the bikes brake cut off system. add a 3rd hall sensor into the controller feed with a Y cable designed for adding gear change sensors Then simply use a magnet placed on the hall sensor to de-activate it and my bike will run..

Remove the magnet and the bike will think the brakes are open and it will cut the motor..

With the hall sensor hidden behind the wall of a steel tube or similar, only i will know its position and who takes note of a small 3-4mm magnet stuck on anything

Got the hall sensors last week and am just prevaricating and looking at it like a 'tomorrow job' atm..

 

[Jonasan-san]

Many ebike switch sets and gear sold on ebay etc are not weatherproof and not wired for High loads at all, 2nd use m/cycle parts however? ( edit i mention high loads for lighting switching not 'ignition')

With many e-bike controllers the display wiring pin #1 red (battery voltage) and pin #2 blue need connecting to turn on the silver box controller, so a hack into the cabling to make/break this connection with a key/ignition switch could work for you.. Tho i cant guarantee your controller is the same?

My 'cunning plan' is to use the bikes brake cut off system. add a 3rd hall sensor into the controller feed with a Y cable designed for adding gear change sensors Then simply use a magnet placed on the hall sensor to de-activate it and my bike will run..

Remove the magnet and the bike will think the brakes are open and it will cut the motor..

With the hall sensor hidden behind the wall of a steel tube or similar, only i will know its position and who takes note of a small 3-4mm magnet stuck on anything

Got the hall sensors last week and am just prevaricating and looking at it like a 'tomorrow job' atm..

A devious plan indeed! I'm still married to the idea of an ignition just for the "motorcycle" experience. I was planning on wiring it between the on/off switch and display, surely that would work correct?

 

[E-HP]

A devious plan indeed! I'm still married to the idea of an ignition just for the "motorcycle" experience. I was planning on wiring it between the on/off switch and display, surely that would work correct?

To be clear, no motorcycle has its ignition switch in that location (aligned with the head tube). When they are mounted on the triple clamp area, it’s usually forward of the head tube axis.

You can get one of these to make you feel like you have a fuel gauge

 

[Jonasan-san]

To be clear, no motorcycle has its ignition switch in that location (aligned with the head tube). When they are mounted on the triple clamp area, it’s usually forward of the head tube axis.

You can get one of these to make you feel like you have a fuel gauge

That thing's hilarious I love it xD I realize it's not exactly the same but since I don't have that style of handlebar I figured this is the next best I could do. I've seen videos of people adding them but they either use the one that fits onto the handlebars or just tie it to the side and I'm not happy with either of those.

 

[offGridDownUnder]

who takes note of a small 3-4mm magnet stuck on anything

... and you'd better stick a spare magnet or two somewhere on the bike so you can always get home.

 

[fill]

... and you'd better stick a spare magnet or two somewhere on the bike so you can always get home.

If required removing the sensor/unplugging it will take it out of the system, but believe me 20x magnets will be all over the bloody bike and a few stuck to my keys too Im currently ridding about with a few stuck to the steel rack tubes to see how they hold up to a bumpy ride.. last thing needed is to loose a magnet/power post bump or pot hole..

If it proves necessary i can glue a magnet to a velcro strip to wrap around the bike and twist or slide in/out of position..

And its no deterrent to anyone simply pedalling off on the bike if they get the locks off. Also my sub $300 donor bike and basic bolt on kit, is not the target of top-end bike thieves, and only really at risk from opportunists who get their opportunities from me being lax n lazy with locks.. So its not an urgent need either..

No doubt i will discover the hall sensors i bought are high when i want low or something else i will walk blindly into will throw a roadblock up.. fun eh?

 

[offGridDownUnder]

lax n lazy with locks

I agree this is an "always" item. My own fantasy about anti-theft involves the hidden toggle switch I will have for reverse-mode, and the idea that if someone tries to jump onto my active trike and ride it away, the motor will reverse at walking speed. It will probably also break their ankles. I won't have trouble catching up to them.

Someone did try to ride off with my acoustic bicycle a few years back. I ran then down before they could get properly started and they abandoned it.

 

[Zambam]

Many ebike switch sets and gear sold on ebay etc are not weatherproof and not wired for High loads at all, 2nd use m/cycle parts however? ( edit i mention high loads for lighting switching not 'ignition')

With many e-bike controllers the display wiring pin #1 red (battery voltage) and pin #2 blue need connecting to turn on the silver box controller, so a hack into the cabling to make/break this connection with a key/ignition switch could work for you.. Tho i cant guarantee your controller is the same?

My 'cunning plan' is to use the bikes brake cut off system. add a 3rd hall sensor into the controller feed with a Y cable designed for adding gear change sensors Then simply use a magnet placed on the hall sensor to de-activate it and my bike will run..

Remove the magnet and the bike will think the brakes are open and it will cut the motor..

With the hall sensor hidden behind the wall of a steel tube or similar, only i will know its position and who takes note of a small 3-4mm magnet stuck on anything

Got the hall sensors last week and am just prevaricating and looking at it like a 'tomorrow job' atm..

Instead of a hall sensor, can you use a normally open reed relay? You deal with 2 instead with 3 wires.

 

[fill]

A devious plan indeed! I'm still married to the idea of an ignition just for the "motorcycle" experience. I was planning on wiring it between the on/off switch and display, surely that would work correct?

Indeed Yes, if you already have a dedicated circuit for a separate 'on' switch (in my case this is embedded in the display). go for it its a lot easier too..

Perhaps heat formed pvc pipe could hold/mount a keylock in place? sculpted and painted to match the frame could work?

 

[fill]

Instead of a hall sensor, can you use a normally open reed relay? You deal with 2 instead with 3 wires.

Thankfully another round of ebay orders is not required? or so I think.. testing the hall sensors i bought reveals they are low voltage with no magnet and high voltage with a magnet and iirc my controller is 'Brake:Low' so a quick google for julet brake sensor pinouts later..., and i have a few dupont wires/sensor jammed into one of the 2x female ends of the Y cable, and can face the cable management nightmare i thought i would never need to touch again..