Help Identify this oldwer E Bike

[keithh]

Hello everyone reading this. First time poster, and I have acquired an older E bike with the following markers.
Sticker says
Jinhualuyan Electric Vehicle
250-350w
Speed max 25km
---
The hub has on it YL24 0610044 ( 24volt ? )
The handle bar readout says EB Run 1020, Ruien Tech.
The previous owner says this bike developed electrical problems, they themselves could not fix and did not want to spend the money to have it looked at. Says it is a mountain bike.
The battery is NmH, 24 volt. I think the charger confirms this also.
I did not see a separate controller on it,. all wires are below the large pedal hub in a sealed area,now hanging out with some repair attempts being apparent.
The frame is in real nice condition, original paint intact, with fenders even.

Thanks for your thoughts Keith

 

[gogo]

The frame lugs say 'generic Chinese ebike' to me. The controller was probably tucked into that space with the wires. What are you trying to identify?

 

[Doctorbass]

Same opinion as gogo.

Controller was tucked into that space. these motor can take abuse too 2kW burst no prob.

If you still have the aluminum battery box that is made to fit back to the seat tube. you can probably put 350Wh of 18650 1.5Ah into it.

just avoid using these poor electrical contact like these on the base of the battery rack...

This could bake a great simple project.

Doc

 

[gogo]

What's with the color matched water bottle? Did they hide the controller in there?

 

[keithh]

HI Guys, No controller attached, earlier owners probably could not find a replacement so itsat in guys work shop for 3 years at least.

Well, all the wiring appears to come through here so I require some way of identifying all the control wiring and hub wiring also.
Being new to this type of equipment makes me want to go slow.
I found some links that might lead to their web site..

I imagine I can do a DIY setup also, although the costs will go up..lol

Anyways, wiring and a controller are the main issue for now.

I do have the NMH battery so Doc's idea could work for sure.

Thanks to you both..Keith

 

[keithh]

Hi Gogo; the water bottle is what it looks like, no wires to see. Nice bottle though.

Thanks for looking and any ideas..

Keith

 

[gogo]

Do you have the parts for the crank? It looks a bit odd to me

Take some good pictures showing all the wiring including where the wires go into each connector.

 

[keithh]

HI gogo I have the crank and those parts as they were off for some reason, maybe to get access to the wiring? Pics will help
Okay, I have a few pics..I did see a whitish plastic something ,very slim, on the pedals shaft, so I looked inside the housing and there is a mess of electronic components inside the housing, covered in a black shiny sealant and barely visible unless you got real close to it. The pedal shaft would go through the center of this. Maybe the plastic leftovers on the shaft was once part of a gear or?
The petal shaft has a nut snapped off one end and so the shaft is unusable this way. Also, it has been ground down some.
The pic showing the black wiring, some of this wiring comes from wheel hub and a 1 or 2 from the controllers on the handles it seems.
The colored wiring peaking out from the housing on the left are likley from the controller inside the shaft housing ?
I wish I had better lighting situation as my cheap camera gets in the way of the flashlight.


Thanks keith

 

[amberwolf]

The petal shaft has a nut snapped off one end and so the shaft is unusable this way.

problby not a nut, was probly swaged to the pedal crank with the line around it's end

can probly use any squaretaper crank with chainrign on that lines up with rear chainring


lookup sheldon brown bike site

 

[keithh]

Thanks Amberwolf , will have a peak for sure..

keith

 

[dogman dan]

IMO, that crank may be hard to fix, unless the shaft inside is the same as typical on cheap mountain bikes.

What I see, is a motor worth at best $50, that could easily be put on another bike, and made to run with a new controller and throttle. And a new battery of course. 24v motor, but go ahead and get a low power 36v brushless motor controller for it. 350w or so. Look for a controller with self learning, or self study feature. Or a sensor less controller.

The only wires you need to worry about are the ones to the motor. There should be three fat wires, and possibly 5 skinny ones. If only three, then you will need a sensor less controller.

 

[keithh]

Heh Dogman Dan, Thanks for you reply. I had a closer look at the black wires and see where they lead and count the ones to the motor.
I found one black cable to the motor, with red and blck wires as shown in the pic. This wire runs inside a slot cut on the axle , and into the motor, not big wires . Pics attached.
The 4 other cables go to the handle controls.
The 2 other pics show the pedal hold nut ( after market stove nuts? ) snapped off situation. These pedals do not seem to fit well so may be add ons. I could have this drilled out and fixed up to carry the pedal, I figure welding is out of the question unless I msgiver it.

Thanks again Keith

 

[gogo]

I found one black cable to the motor, with red and blck wires as shown in the pic. This wire runs inside a slot cut on the axle , and into the motor, not big wires . Pics attached.

Wow, if there's only two wires going into the motor, one red and one black, that means its brushed. You might want to open the motor up to get a look at brush condition. The good news is that you can just hook a 12V battery to the red(+) and black(-) wires to test for operation.

The wiring in the crank space was for pedaling sensors. You can just bypass or delete it and use a throttle instead. Brushed controllers are inexpensive. I wouldn't go with more than 36V on a motor specified for 24V.

 

[keithh]

Heh guys; I have a mystery it seems. As you can see from the latest pics, they are 2 power lugs that the battery sits on to drive the motor.
The last owner applied a 12 volt dc to these and the motor ran. I do not see any wiring going to the motor from this setup and the 2 wires to the axel are disconnected.

Any ideas on this would be handy.


Thanks keith

PS Srry about the lousy pics..

 

[gogo]

So, all wires to the motor are disconnected and it is getting power somehow?

 

[amberwolf]

Heh guys; I have a mystery it seems. As you can see from the latest pics, they are 2 power lugs that the battery sits on to drive the motor.

these are the battery connectors. batt is long box sits on that, visible in lots of pics of some types of prebuilt ebikes.

The last owner applied a 12 volt dc to these and the motor ran. I do not see any wiring going to the motor from this setup and the 2 wires to the axel are disconnected.

then last owner had wires different than they are now. has done something to it before you got it.

either had controller and took it out, or motor is brushed motor not brushless cuz bl requires controler.

 

[keithh]

Heh guys; I witnessed the power being applied, it did run, but to be certain I will go down and see what it does with my battery pack, 12 vlt.18650. Nope , will not run off these. But where are the power wires unless I pulled them off the inside while pocking around but then they would have a different connectors on them to match the lugs nuts seen in the pic .. Now is a good time to text the previous owner. Done.
I took some more shots with a better camera, no hidden wires from the lugs , it seems, and the frame appears at this point looks to be solid 1/4 inch metal...
If it is brushed then this could cost less to setup
Question is , why the electronics inside the pedal Hub? Maybe the pedals need to be in motion for this motor to work and the missing plastic part on the pedal shaft was a sensor of some sort?

Thanks to both of you for your comments and looking guys..appreciate it..


Keith

 

[keithh]

Gogo, Yes probably a sensor..thanks for that.
Come to think of it, I did not see his battery but a carry bag with the 2 leads coming out to the bike. If it was Lead acid, it would be too heavy to carry in that bag..lol..more mystery.

 

[keithh]

Hey guys, recd an email from previous owner and yes, 2 wires were used so it is a brush motor. I did not notice the hookup in the low light situation at the time, my bad.
Ran outside, lol and got it to turn over at 12volt.
using a PWM controller like this one
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MAX-10-50V-2000W-40A-12V-24V-48V-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/201399689235?hash=item2ee45b6013:g:w1kAAOSwHnFVvr2I

or I could use this one,
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=24+100a+dc+motor+speed+controller+PWM&_sop=15&_dmd=2&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=DC+10-50V+60A+Motor+Speed+Control+PWM+HHO+RC+Controller+12V+24V+48V&_sacat=0

Should I be using this type of speed controller?

or buy this one http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24V-350W-Electric-Scooter-Bicycle-E-bike-Brush-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-/171512068864?hash=item27eeea7b00:gXYAAOSwZkJURyt9

While Im on it, Im new to power and battery setup for this type of motor and do not wish to make any mistakes early on.I have some cells to make up a decent 18650 battery and wonder if 24 volt will do it or should I go to a higher volt? Would say 24volt at 6S, 5P do it and not over power the motor?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Many Thanks Keith


I

 

[amberwolf]

Would say 24volt at 6S, 5P do it and not over power the motor?

7s

or buy this one http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24V-350W-Electri ... SwZkJURyt9

easier to use this kind

 

[keithh]

Thanks Amberwolf, good stuff , if i use the 2nd type I would next have to fig out the controls it would accept. I checked wiring from controls and saw 2 wires, no 3rd.

Also, a 7s charger that allows a variable adjustable voltage, any ideas of such a vendor?

many Thnks Keith

 

[BoomerChomsi]

I have almost same motor, your speed/torque sensor is also inside motor?

Do have any pictures inside the motor?
Your controller is 24V right? can you check capacitor is installed 35V?