Help identifying New E-bike kit purchased used

[bikin_it]

I purchased what I thought would be a slick little ride to get around. Long and short of it, I'm in over my head. It is apparent that I did not know the questions to ask when I had the seller in front of me. The seller paid to have this bike put together and claims that just recently it stopped working. From the outward appearances of it, I cannot tell the difference between what I have and what Dillenger sells. The battery pack charges up as it seems like it should (approximately 54V). The charger seems to be suited to the battery exactly and I cannot find any indication what I have is different that the charger Dillenger sells. The battery powers on (but USB port doesn't work) and the conrol/remote device (on the handlebar) turns on. The backlight is on for only a second or so on the display. The battery life indicator on the display doesn't appear to register a charge and it blinks (though the battery life indicator on the battery itself functions as it should). When the throttle is activated, the temperature display changes and rather than displaying the temperature it goes to a rotating icon display (for lack of better terminology). Does anyone have any advice as to what I should do about this?
The seller told me that it simply stopped working (indicating that he did in fact have it working) and I have no reason to doubt that. The hub that is on the bike is a "Q100H" 36V. Did the individual who put this together simply mismatch parts - a 36V hub on a 48V system? I'm inclined to think that some sensor is off which is prohibiting a charge from registering in the system. Any advice where to look? Many thanks for the consideration and insight.

 

[Hillhater]

Impossible to comment with so little information..
Is it actually a Dillinger bike ?....or a "clone" of one.
Photos ?
Where are you located,..someone may be local and could help.

 

[dogman dan]

Well,, 90% of the time, if the battery is ok,, then it's the wiring. Start looking hard at the plugs and every inch of the wire. Look for bent pins, or pins backed out of the plug housings if they are removable type pins.

Pictures help a lot with identifying stuff.

 

[bikin_it]

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[bikin_it]

 

[bikin_it]

 

[bikin_it]

Great points on all accounts. Thank you for the responses. Indeed, I do not know whether this is truly a Dillenger kit or some other brand. I looked through all the connections and didn't see any smoking gun. Does anyone have a schematic/diagram of the wiring? Thanks for the information thus far.

 

[2old]

Dillenger is usually responsive to questions, and supports AU, US & UK; look at their website and realize the time differential.

 

[Grinchy]

Check that the motor cable is plugged in correctly. Unplug it, look at the pins carefully. Look for markings on the cable that show which orientation to plug it back together. For example, mine has little arrows that point to each other that need to be lined up.
This cable is probably under your bottom bracket and joints in the middle of the chainstay.

 

[greg176]

Looks like a kit from BMS Battery.

 

[greg176]

Don't let the battery display in upper right hand corner distract you. That doesn't refresh till bike has been rolling under power. If you press the center button twice after display is on it will show voltage at bottom of screen.

 

[docw009]

I have a Bafang motor with a similar looking display. I like the display/controller combo, as it has a very clean cabling layout. I'll assume yours will work like mine.

1) In the photo, the battery indicates the battery is empty, meaning it's under 40 volts as far as the controller knows. It fills with bars to show the battery charge level. Mine will sometimes go white like that with a fully charged battery if I connect a live battery and spark the connectors.
EDIT: Previous poster says it's normal.

2) If you press the center button on the console, the display will cycle thru three screens, with the lower readout in the middle alternating between DST (distance), ODO (odometer), and VOL (volts). What does VOL say? That's the voltage on the battery. This may confirm why the battery icon is blank. Akso, how many miles does ODO say? This number is not easily reset, so you know what the previous owner did,

3) The Temp display spins under throttle on my bike too. I never noticed this.

4) You might try unplugging and then reseating the connector coming off the motor.

EDIT:

5) Pictures show two connectors hanging free, and wrapped around steerer tube. I also see a connector hanging loose under the battery,
???

 

[bikin_it]

Thanks for the responses, folks. Helpful hint about the voltage reading on the display - even when the battery icon appears flat or blinking, the Vols reading comes in just under 50V and responded accordingly when I charged the battery up a bit. I have checked and rechecked and plugged and unplugged all the connections. I believe the loose ends are for brake sensors? - which aren't installed and I suspect not at issue. There is not visible damage with the bicycle nor with the system so I am a bit inclined to believe that it did "simply stop working" even if that is overly optimistic. I sent in an info request with Dillenger and am still waiting, and I'm a bit sheepish as I am not sure this is indeed a Dillenger product... I'm still hoping someone stumbles across this posting who has has a similar experience with the same perceived error. Thanks again

When I disconnect the cable from to the motor, nothing on the display changes (the battery icon still flashed just the same). If someone else has a comparable setup, would they be so kind as to disconnect the same cable (that going to the motor) and report back as to what happens with the display. This might just help narrowing it down. Thanks for the consideration!

 

[docw009]

I dunno. It's probably never going to happen in real life, but if one were poking the controller buttons randomly, it's possible to set that controller in a non functional state, If it is indeed an LCD-3 display. Or maybe the original owner decided to experiment and locked up his bike. This is the BMSbattery.com link to the LCD-3 controller PDF.

https://bmsbattery.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=5

You will want to read thru it. On page 20, they talk about the P-values. If they got set wrong, the throttle won't work. I've never gone there myself. You don't have to change them, but you could write them all down and maybe someone could critique them.

 

[Dillenger_Australia]

I dunno. It's probably never going to happen in real life, but if one were poking the controller buttons randomly, it's possible to set that controller in a non functional state, If it is indeed an LCD-3 display. Or maybe the original owner decided to experiment and locked up his bike. This is the BMSbattery.com link to the LCD-3 controller PDF.

https://bmsbattery.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=5

You will want to read thru it. On page 20, they talk about the P-values. If they got set wrong, the throttle won't work. I've never gone there myself. You don't have to change them, but you could write them all down and maybe someone could critique them.

Hi bikin_it,

How did you go with re-setting the P and C values? We have seen kits with similar issues where these settings are not correct and end up spitting out weird issues on the display; no voltage readout being one. The P and C values mentioned above in this post from BMS Battery may work, but as we are unsure exactly what kit it is we have another set of parameters that may work as well. Have a go inputting the above ones, if there is no luck with these working then you could try the ones i have attached. Let us know if these change anything at all. Probably best to record your default settings somewhere so that you can go and change it back if none of this works.

Apart from that, its very hard to diagnose without being able to swap in and out components to see what part is faulty. It could be a range of things from faulty wiring, controller, display, or motor internals unfortunately.

-Adam

 

[bikin_it]

I appreciate the response and information - you all are truly great. I fiddled with parameters enough to convince myself that isn't the entirety of my situation. The voltage and battery icon are now functioning as they should. Everything seems to operate except the motor. I eliminated the extension to see if that was causing my grief - but that wasn't the weak link. The controller operates the same (from all outward appearances) whether the motor is plugged in or not - the wattage remains at zero and the temperature display shifts to the 'motor engaged' icon. I'm kind of betting I won't accidentally stumble upon the answer. Anybody near Oklahoma with some spare parts to swap around?! Thanks again

 

[d8veh]

Does the controller have the block connectors or the moulded ones.

 

[hemo]

Lcd looks exactly like Lcd3 from BMSB also no pic or mention of the controller, to me it looks like you may have the BMSB 09 controller kit as it all has the Juliet/Higo type water proof connectors which is becoming more common so is it 36 or 48v kit ? The unused Juliet underneath looks as if it the pas connection and obviously the two front one are for brake cut offs. Being that these aren't capped off maybe moisture has got in ? Also the motor cable and 4-1 harness cable disappear under the bb so points to me being an 09 controller kit.

 

[docw009]

Bikin_it, you were asking what happens if the motor controller were unplugged from the motor.

On mine, which has a 9 pin connector with Hall sensors, unplugging it and turning the throttle brings up Error 3 on the display. Error 3 indicates Hall sensor issues. Your motor might not have these sensors, and maybe you have a corresponding controller.

 

[bikin_it]

Thanks again for the information, folks. Having found no luck, I'll pull the components and return to normal pedaling... Enjoy the fast lane and wave as you go by.