((Help me please!! alternator delta conversion as a motor))

[kejanostra]

Here is how is the continuity between these 6 wires (double),
they beep that together, and not with the others wires.
Thus from this plan, how have the 3 phases delta
Thank you.

 

[Harold in CR]

Your last diagram is good. Connect 1to 6 5 to 4 3 to 2. That is what I have been telling you.

12V is way too high for the rotor brush slip rings. You need to use 5V and less. I believe 5 V is start up, and the rotor spins faster as you turn the voltage down. I believe this is where you put the servo tester- throttle, between the + from the 5V source and one brush connection.

Have you looked at Youtube for Altermotor OR Alternator conversion? There are several videos. The LINK I posted, takes you to a long thread of Alternator conversion information.

When you get this working, post in this thread how you succeeded, so others will understand.

 

[kejanostra]

Your last diagram is good. Connect 1to 6 5 to 4 3 to 2. That is what I have been telling you.

12V is way too high for the rotor brush slip rings. You need to use 5V and less. I believe 5 V is start up, and the rotor spins faster as you turn the voltage down. I believe this is where you put the servo tester- throttle, between the + from the 5V source and one brush connection.

Have you looked at Youtube for Altermotor OR Alternator conversion? There are several videos. The LINK I posted, takes you to a long thread of Alternator conversion information.

When you get this working, post in this thread how you succeeded, so others will understand.

Yes Harold,
I looked a lot on YouTube, but they work differently every time.
And their expications is is poor!
And they answer not messages, certainly because all the people want to know.
Count on me! If I find the functioning, I would share with this forum!

 

[Harold in CR]

Did you go to that LINK?

 

[Skalabala]

I would say the problem is in the controller. When it starts to inject the starting currant you should hear a wining noise.
I have played with a few motors using a RC controller and I found that some of the motors must be manually spun really fast before the controller can take over to make it spin.

 

[kejanostra]

Did you go to that LINK?

Yes thank you.
But far too many information to get lost at the end.
I includes the principle, I am no donkey, but every person who builds this conversion, uses a diverse technique for the functioning.
Some to put 12V upon the arrival of the rotor and the controller, of other one to put - of 5V in the rotor and 12V to the controller.
Then I am going to make several tests and I would see if I manage to make turn these cursed alternator!

 

[kejanostra]

I would say the problem is in the controller. When it starts to inject the starting currant you should hear a wining noise.
I have played with a few motors using a RC controller and I found that some of the motors must be manually spun really fast before the controller can take over to make it spin.

Yes thank you, I would also try of accompanied the pulley during my tests.

 

[kejanostra]

Look, no problem for them

[youtube]muCRyA7wy0I[/youtube]

[youtube]hSokiAly4L8[/youtube]

[youtube]RSKq3bwVRHk[/youtube]

[youtube]OpUNZLBZidU[/youtube]

On this one, look at the cabling, it seems to be as none proposed by us all:

[youtube]q1eLEoTv92Q[/youtube]

 

[kejanostra]

As I have not other source less high than 12V battery of car, I have make a bridge divisor tension, so, I fall of 12V in 4V.
I have make the test with an adapter sector 12V, and he work!
So, I could connected the controller and the rotor on the same source 12V (battery car),
but the rotor will be with 4V and dust.
I would try later, on my conversion.

I have added in séries 2X1K ohm (+), and 1X1K ohm (-), and gives 4V at the end.
View attachment 1

 

[kejanostra]

I maybe found the real " delta with coupling " of this alternator conversion!
Because by looking at the video of this guy, I put on stop the vidéo for see how he connects these 6 wires,
and they are also wire double as me.
I have make another plan, then tell me if you see the same thing as me I. 8)

Look good:

[youtube]q1eLEoTv92Q[/youtube]

My plan:

 

[Harold in CR]

I have no idea what that connection set up is. Does yours work yet ?

 

[kejanostra]

I have no idea what that connection set up is. Does yours work yet ?

No, not still make the test.
But this guy has the same kind alternator as me.
Thus, I looked of meadows on his video, and my sketch seems as its "triangle coupling" connected him.

 

[parabellum]

I maybe found the real " delta with coupling " of this alternator conversion!
Because by looking at the video of this guy, I put on stop the vidéo for see how he connects these 6 wires,
and they are also wire double as me.
I have make another plan, then tell me if you see the same thing as me I. 8)

Look good:

[youtube]q1eLEoTv92Q[/youtube]

My plan:

This one is called Star, Why or just Y connection scheme.

 

[kejanostra]

This one is called Star, Why or just Y connection scheme.[/quote]




Thank You Parabellum!
OK, this is why there have many more wires than triangle?
I go still tested tomorrow, but just triangle as tells you me,
but with (-5V) to rotor and 12V to ESC, and I return! :wink:

 

[Skalabala]

I really can not see why you are struggling so much
Find the coil phases by testing with ohm setting on the multimeter.
Test two ends at a time until you find three pairs that are identical resistance.

PS: what is your home language?

 

[kejanostra]

I really can not see why you are struggling so much
Find the coil phases by testing with ohm setting on the multimeter.
Test two ends at a time until you find three pairs that are identical resistance.

PS: what is your home language?

What problem with my language? I am Corsica!
And I make the effort to speak in English, I am not English origin sir.
And, I found these 3 phases! " THEY DO NOT WORK! ".

 

[parabellum]

I really can not see why you are struggling so much
Find the coil phases by testing with ohm setting on the multimeter.
Test two ends at a time until you find three pairs that are identical resistance.

PS: what is your home language?

What problem with my language? I am Corsica!
And I make the effort to speak in English, I am not English origin sir.
And, I found these 3 phases! " THEY DO NOT WORK! ".

Are you sure your rotor is energized? Have you tried to stick some metal piece inside to see if it sticks to the rotor? Then fix the motor to a table and briefly connect any coil (pair that beeps at testing) to 12V (without ESC), while rotor energized. Rotor should turn to other position, change polarity on stator coil and rotor jumps to other position. If this does not happen, then you have problem with stator coil integrity or rotor magnetization. Other ways I only suspect ESC.

 

[Skalabala]

Yes parabellum is on the correct path.
If you energize the router with 12V and give one coil 12V then you should feel the pulley is getting stiff!(router field should be strong enough at 12V that it can be felt with metal on the outside of the case)
Test each coil like this.

When you apply currant to the coils with the controller do you see a stuttering movement or hear a high pitch sound?

Your English is fair

 

[kejanostra]

Are you sure your rotor is energized? Have you tried to stick some metal piece inside to see if it sticks to the rotor? Then fix the motor to a table and briefly connect any coil (pair that beeps at testing) to 12V (without ESC), while rotor energized. Rotor should turn to other position, change polarity on stator coil and rotor jumps to other position. If this does not happen, then you have problem with stator coil integrity or rotor magnetization. Other ways I only suspect ESC.[/quote]









Thank you parabellum for the craftiness for the test! :wink:
Thus, as the report of the picture, see you my delta is correct?
My ring rotor is used a lot and also my 2 coals, but the current 12V gets through well 2 coals,
and I let connect a reel, then undo 2 others, and I have make the contact on 12V (without ESC),
and so the pulley moves some millimeters, then I repeated the operation on every reel, and all move just a little.

Conclusion: the ESC, which normally was new, and dead!, Or the testeur of servo.
( They arrived of the china)
Then, how to test an ESC or an testeur servo to know if they really dead?
Thank You.

 

[Harold in CR]

The cheap Chinese controllers will burn up if you try to start the rotation of the rotor with a full start. This way, you are trying to make rotation by NON sensored means. I don't think that will work.

In the videos you posted, there were 2 servo testers, I believe. It MAY be that the guy has installed 2 Hall effect sensors, so the controller knows where the rotor is positioned, N-S, so it can induce power to get rotation.

I am simply guessing on this, but, I seem to remember something like this from the RC group, link I sent you. There are 45 or more pages to read in that link.

 

[kejanostra]

The cheap Chinese controllers will burn up if you try to start the rotation of the rotor with a full start. This way, you are trying to make rotation by NON sensored means. I don't think that will work.

In the videos you posted, there were 2 servo testers, I believe. It MAY be that the guy has installed 2 Hall effect sensors, so the controller knows where the rotor is positioned, N-S, so it can induce power to get rotation.

I am simply guessing on this, but, I seem to remember something like this from the RC group, link I sent you. There are 45 or more pages to read in that link.

Yes, but some in their videos, also use that 1 only tester of servo,
and the rotor as the controller ESC are fed 12V, then go to understand this thing. :?

 

[Skalabala]

If you buy a chinese controller then you need to buy one of those 200A ones.

 

[kejanostra]

If you buy a chinese controller then you need to buy one of those 200A ones.

Why so high in Ampere

 

[Harold in CR]

This is info from Widodo thread. I sure wish he would come back in here and assist us with what he did. I don't DO Electronics, other than to let the magic smoke out of all the parts.

12V supply (3V rotor supply)

I'm currently using HK 150 car brushless ESC running in sensorless mode, and a brushed ESC for the rotor supply, both ESC controlled by AVR8535 processor, which gets an input from joystick functioning as throttle, and a slider potensiometer as gear selector. For a very powerfull start up, I'm powering up the rotor up to 7V, and decreasing it to 3V

Once you power-up the rotor through the slip-ring, it become a normal brushless in-runner motor, so you could spin it off using normal RC brushless ESC, just make sure that you use the large one as the current for start up is quite big. I always used at least 100Amps rated ESC

I did not have a brushless controller, so, I never did get my altermotor running, YET. I still plan on it, with my 24V 150A Alternator.

 

[kejanostra]

This is info from Widodo thread. I sure wish he would come back in here and assist us with what he did. I don't DO Electronics, other than to let the magic smoke out of all the parts.

12V supply (3V rotor supply)

I'm currently using HK 150 car brushless ESC running in sensorless mode, and a brushed ESC for the rotor supply, both ESC controlled by AVR8535 processor, which gets an input from joystick functioning as throttle, and a slider potensiometer as gear selector. For a very powerfull start up, I'm powering up the rotor up to 7V, and decreasing it to 3V

Once you power-up the rotor through the slip-ring, it become a normal brushless in-runner motor, so you could spin it off using normal RC brushless ESC, just make sure that you use the large one as the current for start up is quite big. I always used at least 100Amps rated ESC

I did not have a brushless controller, so, I never did get my altermotor running, YET. I still plan on it, with my 24V 150A Alternator.

Yes I have already read his "homemade" conversion alternator for make an e-buggy, but "every person makes worked differently".
Then, his e-buggy runs not fast, because there are these 2 childrens more he to carry above, thus it is normal.
I I planned an accelerator hand "effect hall", if my conversion works, to make accelerate the engine, I read that it is necessary connected the wires of him, instead of the button (potentiometer).
But, I am not still there!