Help with new controller-Daymak DMK1892

[candyskullinked]

Hello Everyone,
Just wondering if anyone possibly has a wiring schematic for the daymak bluetooth controller(DMK1892). I have a 48V Daymak Wildoose Ebike and I just replaced the controller with their newer Bluetooth one. Didn't realize how different the connectors were until it was delivered. Not even sure if its compatible with my ebike. I got mostly everything wired up but I keep on getting an Error 30 code. Which basically keeps the bike from being used. The wiring must be wrong somewhere. And there are a few wires that I'm just not sure where they even go. My Ebike has 6 hall sensor wires and the controller only has 5. So the white wire is left out. And these are the few wires where I'm not sure where to connect:
Single Orange wire labeled "Power Switch"
Green wire labeled "Hall Meter"
Green wire labeled "Phase Line"
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[amberwolf]

Generally, in systems with a display, 30 is often communication error, but you'd need to check the manual for what it actually is to start troubleshooting from there.

One common reason for comm errors is that if you are using controller with a display, and the display didn't come with the controller, it's likely that they are not compatible and can't talk to each other, even if they are the same "brand" due to firmware or other differences. So if you got the new controller without a display, you'll probably have to get the display that is supposed to come with that new controller to match it.

I haven't seen a reliable schematic for these systems posted yet, because they tend to change all the time depending on what Daymak orders from whatever company actually makes their parts, or what they dropship as completed systems, over time, so even if you find one it is probably not be the same system you have.

If Daymak doesn't have a wiring diagram for their systems, then it's likely you're going to have to trace the wiring down from the original controller to each component (drawing up a complete diagram of the system as you go for reference), then attempt to connect the new controller per it's wiring diagram. If it does not have one and Daymak can't provide it, then you may have to open up both controllers and make a chart for each one showing where each wire goes inside, with any pad labelling it might have. That may let you better guess which wire then goes to which function on the other system parts outside the controller based on your complete system diagram you've made.

For "power switch" it's probably the KSI wire, which connects to battery positive to provide power to the controller's LVPS to create 5v, 12v, etc from to run it.

for hall meter / phase line, they are probably both speedometer outputs, as they match generic terms for inputs on generic scooter *displays* for this purpose. Hall meter is usually for a 5v hall-sensor based wheel speed signal, which usually comes from one of the motor position sensor halls. PHase line is usually for a battery-voltage level signal from one of the motor phases. You wouldn't want to connect either of those to a display's input unless you are *certain* you have the right one, as you could damage or destroy parts ranging from the motor (hall sensors) to the controller to the display if it's wrong.

You'd have to test to find out, but white wires in motor cables are often used for speed sensors, sometimes for temperature sensors, and sometimes for both at the same time with special controllers that can read that. If the controller has nowhere for that to go, then the system probably won't report wheel speed correctly or at all, unless it reads the motor halls directly (and if you have a geared hubmotor or a middrive, it will only read a speed while the motor is spinning, not when coasting).

 

[candyskullinked]

Yeah I think I cooked the controller to be honest. I'm not super savvy when it comes to wiring stuff. I know the basics but I usually have my husband do these sort of things. Of course, I tried to do this on my own and shot myself in the foot lol. After more research, I found a site that explained how to do a continuity test. So I used my voltmeter and put the black prong to negative terminal, used the red prong to test each wire. Phase wires and colored wires were fine, but every black wire on the controller beeped when testing. Then I put the black prong to positive terminal and tested each wire again. No beeping so no shorts. Not really sure what this even means to be honest lol. Is my controller cooked? Or is there some way to fix the shorting? I know none of the wires have melted together on the outside anyways but i'm assuming I will have to open it up and check it out. But I have no idea what to look for so may have to wait for the hubby to get home so he can have a look for me haha.

 

[amberwolf]

So I used my voltmeter and put the black prong to negative terminal, used the red prong to test each wire. Phase wires and colored wires were fine, but every black wire on the controller beeped when testing. Then I put the black prong to positive terminal and tested each wire again. No beeping so no shorts.

If this is on the controller, then that's the expected results.

It does mean that none of the phase wires are shorted to ground or voltage, which is good, means no blown FETs.

Another test you can do with the meter is set it to 200VDC (or autorange), and put teh black lead on battery negative. Connect the battery to the controller's battery positive and negative as normal (but don't connect any other part of the bike to it), and then check with the red meter lead on any / all of the red wires. The battery positive should read whatever the battery is, and the rest of them usually read 5V. If you get no 5V, there may be an orange wire that's bundled with the battery wires, and that connects to the battery positive to turn the controller on (usually called KSI, keyswitch, ignition, "door lock" or other weird mistranslations, etc. if there is any labelling).

Not really sure what this even means to be honest lol. Is my controller cooked?

Probably not. But it's tough to know what wires go where, because who knows where Daymak got the new controller to send you, or what wires are what for it--if they can't supply a connection diagram for it then we can make some guesses, but based on the existence of the hall-meter / phase-line wires, it probably doesn't even support a display (none of the ones I've seen with those wires do, which is why they have those wires to run to a "generic" scooter-type speedometer display that doesn't communicate with the controller.

It's likely that the controller can run your motor, but which controls it supports and whether it can talk to a display is unknown.


Can you post good clear pics of the original and new controller's labelling, and their wires, spread out where we can see the groups they are in to their connectors? (the actual connector type/etc doesn't necessarily mean anything, but the groups usually do).

And of each of the connectors/wires to each of the devices on the bike that the old controller connected to?

I also recommend drawing up (and posting) a diagram of how the original controller was connected to everything, wherever you can trace the cables, if not the individual wires in them. This can then be used to help make a new diagram of how to connect the new controller.

With this info we can try to figure out which things on the bike can connect to the new controller.

If it's not enough to make reasonable guesses, and Daymak can't provide a diagram for anything, then it might require either opening the controller to see where the wires go to the board inside (sometimes markings there give clues to functions, sometimes not), or just trying out different things.


Do you know what the BT function in the new controller does? Is it for setup and programming? Or just to let you see realtime data on a phone app? (if it's the latter, then it is even less likely that it supports a normal display, as it would not be needed).

 

[candyskullinked]

Ahh! Well that's a relief. I totally thought my controller was done lol. Okay so I have attached pics of my old controller and the new one as well. My old one did not have any labeling unfortunately. Here's the info for both anyways:

Old Controller:
3 Phase: Yellow, Green, Blue
Battery: Red, Black
Brake: Grey, Black X 2
PAS: Red, Black, Blue
Hall Sensors: Green, Blue, Black, Red, Yellow, White
Display/Power Button: Blue/White, Black/White, Red/White, Yellow/White, Green/White
Throttle: Red, Black, Yellow/Green

New Controller:
3 Phase: U V W Terminal
Battery: B- Terminal, B+ Terminal
High Brake: Purple
Low Brake: Grey, Black
PAS: Red, Green, Black
Hall Sensors: Black, Red, Green, Yellow, Blue
Throttle: Red, Green, Black
Manual Cruise: Black, Purple/White
Reverse: Black, Brown
Anti-Theft: Black, Blue, Brown, Orange, Red
3 Speed: Black, Pink, Blue
Power Switch: Orange
Hall Meter: Green
Phase Line: Green
Bluetooth Mod: Black, Red, Green, Yellow
Single white wire with no label, Not sure if it belongs with the hall sensors? Might be the speed sensor? Not quite sure.

My Ebike:
Display/Power and Up&Down Buttons: Red, White, Blue, Black, Yellow
Throttle: Red, Black, White
PAS: Blue, Black, Red
Motor: Phases(Blue, Yellow, Green), 6 hall sensors(Blue, Black, Red, Yellow, White, Green)
Brake: Black, Grey X 2

For my display, I have the SW-LCD Kingmeter, which connects to my power button and up & down buttons at the handlebars. Then there's my throttle, and brakes. I have pretty much the bare minimum on my Ebike.

Im going to try with the voltmeter right now and test the voltage for the red wires and I'll let you know what the results are. And for the Bluetooth function, I believe the app just allows you to unlock your speed and it has a few different settings for riding, as well as seeing the real-time data. I don't believe it offers anything for diagnostics or programming. And I have contacted Daymak, I am currently waiting for a service technician to get back to me. They informed me over the phone that they do not offer any kind of diagram or schematics unfortunately and of course, I'm out of town and don't have the means to take it to a bike shop.

 

[candyskullinked]

And I just did the voltage test. I wasn't getting anything at first so I connected the orange power switch to the positive terminal and each red wire was reading anywhere from 3-3.6V. None of them are reading 5V so not sure if that matters or what it means... If I can get this controller working then I will just opt out of the display for now. I managed to find a two wire power switch from an old power supply so I imagine I could just wire that in? Just not sure how to connect it.. Maybe just have a ring connector going from the positive terminal to the orange wire and positive wire from the switch. Then do I just put the negative wire from switch to the B- terminal? Also, if the orange wire turns the controller on, Shouldn't the Bluetooth work at that point? I tried to connect the Bluetooth with the app and it wasn't showing in my list of devices. Maybe the phase wires need to be connected or something ? Gosh I don't think I'll do anymore custom mods after this, Wiring is not fun lol but atleast im learning lots haha

 

[amberwolf]

And I just did the voltage test. I wasn't getting anything at first so I connected the orange power switch to the positive terminal and each red wire was reading anywhere from 3-3.6V. None of them are reading 5V so not sure if that matters or what it means...

Does the meter read the battery voltage correctly? And does it read the 5v from a USB charger correctly? (the two outer pins on the big rectangular USB plugs are 5v and ground). If so, then the 5v in the controller is not working correctly--it should be at least 4.5v+ for the controller and connected devices (throttle, PAS, etc) to operate correctly.

There's nothing else to "turn on" the controller normally, since it does power up partially with the orange wire.

One thing that sometimes causes this is if the battery voltage being used is not enough for the controller to actually operate.

A quick google of the p/n given in the first post for the controller finds this page

Store Temporarily Closed for Maintenance

that if it is the same controller you have, says it is "48V-84V (72V Optimized)", and it has this label that implies it is preset for 72v, but is settable for lower voltages. It's unlikely, but it might have to be setup using a 72v battery before it will work on a 48v battery; I ran into this with another controller a long time ago.


It also implies it is setup for a 38A current limit, but could go higher or lower in it's settings. This page

Wild Goose 60V - Daymak

Check out the Wild Goose ebike from Daymak. This high powered fat tire ebike is ready to tackle the road or conquer the trails without looking back.

daymak.com

if it's the bike you have, indicates it only has a 500w middrive motor (which would take about 10A from the battery to operate), so this new controller is extreme overkill for it, and depending on the riding conditions and actual riding style / usage, may overheat the motor or damage it's internal gearing or one-way bearings, or may overdraw the current the battery can supply under higher loads and cause the battery to shutdown to protect itself, etc. The battery is only listed as "10Ah" so given no further info I would guess it supports up to 10-20A output at most. So even at the lowest possible setting for this new controller, it is more than twice what your bike's parts were designed to handle. If the bike is used lightly, that might not be a problem, as it might not ever use more than it's design limits...but if it's used hard, it could eventually damage motor or battery or both.

If I can get this controller working then I will just opt out of the display for now. I managed to find a two wire power switch from an old power supply so I imagine I could just wire that in? Just not sure how to connect it.. Maybe just have a ring connector going from the positive terminal to the orange wire and positive wire from the switch. Then do I just put the negative wire from switch to the B- terminal?

If you are trying to set it up as a switch to turn the controller on and off, you would put the switch between the orange wire and the battery positive. If the switch only has two terminals, then it doesnt' matter which one goes to which wire.

If the switch has more than two terminals, you'd need to see if it has any markings printed or molded onto it's terminals or casing, and post those (or pics of them) here, and we can see what kind it is, to tell how to wire it up. If there are no markings, then there are continuity tests we can do based on pictures of the switch.

Also, if the orange wire turns the controller on, Shouldn't the Bluetooth work at that point? I tried to connect the Bluetooth with the app and it wasn't showing in my list of devices. Maybe the phase wires need to be connected or something ?

Daymak would have to tell you how the BT works...but since you aren't getting 5v where you should, it's probably not powered up enough to turn on. To be sure, the link above shows the BT is a separate module external to the controller. Is that the case, and if so is it attached and connected correctly?


Once the info above is verified / etc, we can go thru the wiring between old/new controller and bike, to figure out what can and can't be connected, etc.

Gosh I don't think I'll do anymore custom mods after this, Wiring is not fun lol but atleast im learning lots haha

I've learned much of what I know by upgrading working things until they didn't and then having to fix them.

 

[candyskullinked]

Thats the strange part about it as well, yesterday I got super flustered and ended up just wanting to wire up my old controller til I got some help with the new one. Wired it up and display wouldn't even turn on. So after a bit of messing around, the only way I could get the display to turn on was if I hooked up the blue wire from display harness to the blue wire from the hall sensor. And when the display finally turned on, Low and behold - error code 30. Gah! So frustrating lol. But I just tested a 5V cord and my voltmeter read the 5V no problem. And the lack of battery power makes sense for the new controller but there's no reason why it should be doing it on the old one. I didn't even realize its technically for a 72V, I just seen the 48V and assumed it would be fine lol. I don't believe I have the mid drive model buts its super similar. It is a 500W Bafang motor and the old controller was 750W 22A.

I attached a photo of the switch. Its just a basic 2 wire switch as far as I can tell. And the controller basically has screws at the terminal so I have to use a loop connector to add anything to those terminals. So in this case, Would I go yellow to orange then splice a loop connector and put it to B+ terminal? Then the black wire to B- terminal?

What else would cause that drop in voltage? Would shortening the wire length affect that at all? I know I've shortened the wires quite a bit due to how many times I have spliced them. I was worried about the connectors I bought on Amazon not being a tight enough fit, figured they weren't making good enough contact so I'm glad that's ruled out. With nothing else plugged into the controller while testing, that can't be the issue. Im gonna try my old controller now and see if I'm getting the 5V

 

[candyskullinked]

So the old controller is reading just above 1V. I wonder what the issue is. I would say the battery.. but its reading 51.7V so not sure what would cause this. Maybe a burnt IC chip? Im gonna do a bit more research. Still waiting for the Daymak service tech to get a hold of me

 

[amberwolf]

Thats the strange part about it as well, yesterday I got super flustered and ended up just wanting to wire up my old controller til I got some help with the new one. Wired it up and display wouldn't even turn on. So after a bit of messing around, the only way I could get the display to turn on was if I hooked up the blue wire from display harness to the blue wire from the hall sensor. And when the display finally turned on, Low and behold - error code 30.

What is the blue wire from the display?

Most displays have five wires: Battery postive from controller, KSI battery votlage back to controller (only there when display is turned on), ground, and two data lines TX/RX to/from controller.

None of those is safe to hook up to any hall sensor wire, but these are the possibilities I can think of:

If the blue wire from the display was the KSI line, then when the display was turned on the battery voltage now present would have probably damaged whatever is on the ohter end of that blue hall wire. If that is the motor hall signal output, the hall inside the motor probably was damaged. If it was the controller hall signal input, the MCU inside the controller was probably damaged. This would in either case usually give a "motor failure" error. Also, the controller couldn't turn on because it would not have any battery power from that KSI line to run it's LVPS/etc.

Also, the display's KSI switch transistor could have been damaged, so that it can no longer turn on the controller.

If the blue wire was the TX or RX from display to controller or vice-versa, then hooking it to the hall signal probably damaged the tranceiver chip at the transmitting end of that wire--if that was from the display it means it can't send anything to the controler anymore, and would give a "communications failure" error. This seems most likely.

If hte blue wire was ground, it probably didn't damage anything, but could damage a hall sensor if enough current had to flow thru it to ground the display. The MCU end probably couldn't ground the current, but if it could it could damage the MCU input. I don't think it could have powered on the display, though.

If the blue wire was battery postiive input to the display, the display wouldn't have had any power to turn on, because even if the blue hall wire was the controller hall signal input with the 5v pullup, the controller wouldn't get any power to turn on until the display was on and providing battery power to the LVPS that makes the 5v in the first place.

I didn't even realize its technically for a 72V, I just seen the 48V and assumed it would be fine lol. I don't believe I have the mid drive model buts its super similar. It is a 500W Bafang motor and the old controller was 750W 22A.

Ok, then at least the new controller can be tuned down to more closely match the old one to prevent overload of battery or motor.

The new controller, if it is indeed the same as that I linked, *can* run on 48v, but whether it is setup to do so or not, you'd have to find out from the seller. If it is the one I linked, it probably is setup for 72v, so it would not turn on for a 48v pack, as that is not high enough voltage for the 72v LVC taht would be preset in it.

I attached a photo of the switch. Its just a basic 2 wire switch as far as I can tell. And the controller basically has screws at the terminal so I have to use a loop connector to add anything to those terminals. So in this case, Would I go yellow to orange then splice a loop connector and put it to B+ terminal? Then the black wire to B- terminal?

It doesn't matter which wire on the switch goes to which wire on the controller; it's not polarized--whatever is more convienient. One switch wire goes to controller B+ and the other to the orange wire.

What else would cause that drop in voltage? Would shortening the wire length affect that at all?

No. The drop is either because the 5v regulator (LVPS) in the controller is not getting enough voltage from battery positive to do it's job, or the 5v is damaged, or it is being dragged down by something attached to the 5v line of the controller.

The BT dongle probably runs on 5v, so if you note how it's plugged in and into what connector, you can unplug it before reconnecting the controller to battery, and see if that lets the 5v go up to normal, if you have nothing else connected to the controller besides the battery.

I was worried about the connectors I bought on Amazon not being a tight enough fit, figured they weren't making good enough contact so I'm glad that's ruled out.

That's still a possible problem for connections that require some current flow , but generally for small signals it shouldn't matter in a static bench test.


If the old controller only gets 1v, then either it's 5v is damaged (from the blue wire misconnection?) or it is not being turned on by the display. Depending on the misconnection, that could be the display is damaged so it can't turn the controller on.

You can bypass the display to test the old controller "headless", if you know which of the wires to the display is battery voltage out of the controller, and which is the KSI wire back from the display.

 

[candyskullinked]

Yeah that all makes sense. Based on the manual I found online for my display, the wires are as follows:
Red: 24V/36V; Blue: lock wire; Black: GND; Green/ Yellow: RX / TX wire
So I can test by using the red and blue?

Im wondering if the blue wire connection is the reason for the 5V being damaged though. Just because I couldn't get the display turned on right from the get go. The only reason I started to even mess around with the wires was because I couldn't get it to work. Idk.

I guess I likely have to get a new controller and pray my halls inside motor aren't toast, along with any other components Haha I definitely shouldn't touch wires anymore, I'm kicking myself in the ass lol

 

[candyskullinked]

Thank you for all your help and wonderful knowledge, I really appreciate it. Lessons definitely learnt for me.

I fixed my laptop charger last month and I was super proud of my soldering job(Typically I would have thrown it out and bought a new one) But noooo, I was so pleased with myself that I apparently deemed myself a master electrician hahaha. Two toasted controllers later and I am firing myself lol. Hope you got a laugh out of my newbie wiring escapades lol

I'll update if I manage to somehow fix either of these damn things lol but I'm not hopeful

 

[amberwolf]

Yeah that all makes sense. Based on the manual I found online for my display, the wires are as follows:
Red: 24V/36V; Blue: lock wire; Black: GND; Green/ Yellow: RX / TX wire
So I can test by using the red and blue?

Yes, if it's like all the other such displays--the controller side of that connector gets the "24v/36v" and "lock wire" connected when the display is not attached to do the same job as the B+ and orange wire on the new controller. That way the controller turns on as soon as battery power is attached to it via it's usual connector.

Im wondering if the blue wire connection is the reason for the 5V being damaged though. Just because I couldn't get the display turned on right from the get go. The only reason I started to even mess around with the wires was because I couldn't get it to work. Idk.

It might have not worked for some other reason, a loose wire or other poor connection, or even a different wire pair shorted together somewhere.

But...if the display did have battery power on it's "24/36v" line, and then it was turned on, it then output that battery power on the "lock" line, so anything connected to that line would have had battery power fed to it. Whether that broke anything or not you'd have to test, but it sounds like it might have.

I guess I likely have to get a new controller and pray my halls inside motor aren't toast, along with any other components Haha I definitely shouldn't touch wires anymore, I'm kicking myself in the ass lol

Stuff happens. :/ I have an ongoing side project here where I use little boards that play sounds off an SD card based on button inputs, and they run off 5v but their speaker amp is only mono, and I wanted stereo, so I was experimenting with using a separate 12v amp off an old computer speaker set, and somehow I managed to do something (still don't know exactly what) that connected 12v to something on the 5v board, and a tiny little curl of smoke came out of the center of the player chip.... :/ Took a couple weeks to get a new board shipped to replace it, along with some 5v amp boards (harder to kill things if all the voltages they use are the same level :lol:

 

[amberwolf]

Thank you for all your help and wonderful knowledge, I really appreciate it. Lessons definitely learnt for me.

Others helped me along as I learned over the decades, so just passing it on.

If you like (mostly) instrumental music that is a bit different from the usual, then as thanks you could listen to the stuff I have over on Amberwolf. If you like that, there is more experimental / older stuff over on Amberwolf . (I don't get many listeners, so everyone that does increases the chances that someone will come along that will really spread it around and I might get an audience.

I fixed my laptop charger last month and I was super proud of my soldering job(Typically I would have thrown it out and bought a new one) But noooo, I was so pleased with myself that I apparently deemed myself a master electrician hahaha. Two toasted controllers later and I am firing myself lol. Hope you got a laugh out of my newbie wiring escapades lol

I have done this sort of thing more times than I can count over the decades, so you're in good company.

Not just electrical stuff, either--I'm one of those jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none people, and am often much more jack than master. Sometimes my mistakes don't just break what I'm working on; I have made many holes in myself with various tools (when I tan, I look like I have white freckles and camouflage patches all over....)

 

[candyskullinked]

OKAY! So I kind of figured something out lol. Due to all of my frustration, I ended up taking the old controller out of the metal casing and tested it wire by wire. So I hooked up just the positive and negative wires then started with the display first. First soldered the red wire, turned on battery. Reading was 51V as expected. Moved on to the blue wire. Low and behold, read 5V! So I was like what the hell. Thats strange. Yellow and green came next, all was dandy, blue wire stayed at 5V. Connected the black ground - Then boom, my blue wire went down to 3V. So my ground seems to be messing with the voltages.. im not sure how to troubleshoot that? Im not sure what would be the cause. Possibly bad capacitor? Maybe leaking power or something? Any ideas?

 

[amberwolf]

Some thoughts and guidance on how these *should* work, and what you should see:

I'm assuming you are connecting the wires from controller to display, one by one?

Are your measurements all being read on the specific wire you are connecting, or at some other point (like always on the blue wire, etc)?

Which blue wire are you testing? The blue hall wire to the motor (with or without the motor connected)? Or the blue lock wire to the display?

The below assumes the typical controller/display wiring and operation. If yours is different, behavior will be different, and I don't know what it will be.

If you have the battery connected to the controller's main battery wires, but nothing else connected at all, then it has a ground to the battery, and will have power to it's FETs and main caps, isn't actually turned on yet and so won't have any 5v, 12v or other voltages out.

The display can't operate or provide correct outputs if it doesnt' get ground connected first, or at the same time as it gets battery positive. So those have to be the first two wires it gets from the controller. Without ground, the paths that current flows inside the controller are not correct and it's operation won't be correct, etc. So if it gets unexpected voltages *with* ground connected, it means something is either wrong with it or the connections to it are wrong or carry the wrong input voltages. (neither of those should be the case if you are matching the wiring it originally had when it worked).

At the controller, with the lock wire not yet connected to the display, the lock wire won't have any voltage on it, as it is a input to the controller that connects to battery positive (via a transistor in the display when the display is turned on) to then power the controller's LVPS that creates 5v / etc on other wires to power the rest of the controller up.

If you get a voltage reading at the controller other than 0V on this wire when it is not connected to the display yet, and the display is not yet turned on, either it is not the lock wire or something is very wrong in the controller or the battery is not wired to the correct controller wires.

If you get a reading other than battery voltage on this wire when it is connected to the display and the display is turned on, then either it's not the lock wire or something is wrong with the dislay or controller.


The hall wire also won't have any voltage on it, until the controller is turned on by the display or by connecting lock to battery positive. Any reading other than 0V when the controller isn't turned on, and any reading ohter than about 5v when it is turned on, means something is wrong.


For just the display-controller wires: Assuming you have ground and battery positive connected from controller and display, and the black meter lead is on battery negative (ground) a the controller, you should get the following once each of the wires connected. If there's anything ohter than these, either your system doesnt' work the way most of these do, or something is wrong.

--battery voltage at battery wire

--0V at ground wire.

--0V at lock wire while display is not turned on at it's power button. battery voltage at lock wire when display is turned on at it's power button and there is now data displayed on it.

--TX and RX wires should read about 2.5v if controller is turned on by display (battery voltage on lock wire), this means data is being sent back and forth. If one of these reads steady 0v or 5v it means that device is not talking to the other one like it should.

 

[kyleP]

I'm curious how this turned out. I've just gotten a daymak em1 with the same controller as you originally posted.

It's a mess and I'm looking to gather as much info as possible before I start poking at it. Lol

Thanks for this thread and the controller connector diagram pic btw. Trying to find that from Daymak has been less than easy...

OKAY! So I kind of figured something out lol. Due to all of my frustration, I ended up taking the old controller out of the metal casing and tested it wire by wire. So I hooked up just the positive and negative wires then started with the display first. First soldered the red wire, turned on battery. Reading was 51V as expected. Moved on to the blue wire. Low and behold, read 5V! So I was like what the hell. Thats strange. Yellow and green came next, all was dandy, blue wire stayed at 5V. Connected the black ground - Then boom, my blue wire went down to 3V. So my ground seems to be messing with the voltages.. im not sure how to troubleshoot that? Im not sure what would be the cause. Possibly bad capacitor? Maybe leaking power or something? Any ideas?

 

[candyskullinked]

Ahhhhha yeah this was a nightmare lol. I fried two controllers throughout this ordeal and had to buy another one
It was not fun. Basically, by the end of it, I'm quite certain that my issue was the throttle. Essentially, after I got the new controller wired up and the throttle didn't engage the wheel to spin, I assumed bad wiring. So I likely wired up something to an incorrect wire then fried it. I didn't start checking voltages on anything til it was far too late. Then tried to go back to my old controller, and same thing must have happened. I bought a new controller and was super careful not to wire anything incorrectly. Got it done and the wheel still wouldn't spin. Super friggen frustrating. Checked my wires and throttle was getting 5V. So I borrowed the throttle from my hubbys Ebike to test it, low and behold the friggen wheel finally turned.
Hahaha what a shitshow. I vowed to leave the damn bike alone for a wheel and I haven't modded anything since. Lol
As for the error 30, I'm assuming that the controller just wasn't compatible with the display I had. Im not quite sure on that though. Daymak wasn't very helpful with troubleshooting tbh.
If you have any issues, just make a post or comment on this thread. Amberwolf is quite knowledgeable and I'm sure he could help with any issues that arise. Hopefully you won't have any though lol good luck!