Help with replacing a fuse.

EdwardNY

1 kW
Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
317
Location
New York
I got my new yescomusa 1000w kit replacement today. The first kit was not working so yescomusa was very nice enough to send me a new kit.

The kit worked. I drove for only about a minute and was amazed by the speed and power of 48volts, it was alot of fun and faster then I imagined at 48 volts. I just decided to ride up a couple of blocks as I had loose wires still and when I was returning my bike went dead. I checked the fuse and the fuse was blown and also the cheap fuse holder was pretty hot.

Anyway a quick search showed me that other people had their fuse blow on the first ride, so hopefully nothing is wrong with my kit.

I looked at the fuse and it is a round fuse that says 250v 30 amps. Now I was looking at fuses and see that they come in different volts. I have a 32 volt 30 amp fuse in my house right now but I am not sure if that will work.
Do I need to get a 250volt fuse?

I was wondering what I can replace this fuse with? Do I need 250volts? Do any of you have a link to something I can buy locally. I want to get this thing on the road the first thing when I wake up and need to get it fixed fast.

Should I replace my complete fuse holder and solder on a new one. The current fuse holder is very cheap and I heard other people said their fuse holder melted.

I am like over a hundred hours into this build (including research) and I almost have it up and running! So the suspense to get it fixed and try it out is killing me.
 
the low voltage fuse will work. the fuse holders all melt down. they have tiny areas of contact for the current to flow through so they get hotter than bejeezus. i bet eventually the fuse holders get so thin they will blow before the fuse. i pulled one out of a ping pack i just bot and it had melted into a glob of plastic goo around the fuse. but the fuse did not blow.
 
Any auto parts store will have something like this. Use a 40A ATC fuse. I got mine at Walmart auto department with 12G wire for $1.28. 32v will work fine, but I'd go to 40A even though 30A will probably work fine too. It's really those crappy fuse holders that causes the fuses to over heat and melt. Mine looked like a sagging bridge inside the glass when i replaced it.
http://www.amazon.com/In-line-ACT-Water-resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A
 
Wesnewell, do you know the amp rating of the stock controller on the yescomusa kit?

Also when using a 40 amp fuse, if that amp rating is too high for the controller and it drew 40 amps, what would I damage? Only the controller?
 
All 3 of the controllers I got from them were 30A max. The 40A fuse I'm using now hasn't blown with my 72V 40A controller. It's main function is to prevent fires. Unless you do a shunt mod on the controller, a 40A fuse is high enough.
 
I had problems with auto style fuse holders, so I went with a Maxi style;
maxihdh (1).jpg
It comes with 40 and 80 A maxi fuses.
$7 plus shipping here;
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39551_The-Install-Bay-MAXIHDH.html?utm_source=GAN&utm_medium=GAfeed&utm_campaign=GAfeed
$11 plus tax at Wallmart.
 
What I decided to do after looking at the inline fuse holder was to just solder the power wires directly to the ATC fuse. Not the best idea if you need to replace the fuse out during a drive but it will eliminate alot of the fuse holder problems. I figured if it blew a 40amp fuse, then I probably have bigger issues and shouldn't be riding the bike anyway until I figure out what is broke.
 
EdwardNY said:
What I decided to do after looking at the inline fuse holder was to just solder the power wires directly to the ATC fuse. Not the best idea if you need to replace the fuse out during a drive but it will eliminate alot of the fuse holder problems. I figured if it blew a 40amp fuse, then I probably have bigger issues and shouldn't be riding the bike anyway until I figure out what is broke.

Next time could solder short 3-inch wires to the ATC fuse, then attach the fuse into the power wire using wire nuts, 4mm bullets, or whatever connector you like.
 
EdwardNY said:
What I decided to do after looking at the inline fuse holder was to just solder the power wires directly to the ATC fuse. Not the best idea if you need to replace the fuse out during a drive but it will eliminate alot of the fuse holder problems. I figured if it blew a 40amp fuse, then I probably have bigger issues and shouldn't be riding the bike anyway until I figure out what is broke.

i have always avoided fuses, but now i think i will solder a fuse right onto the top connector on the ping pack. i have one of those maxi 40A fuses with wide spades so i can solder the wire to that, and then attach the wire to the battery case for strain relief to prevent damage to the battery terminal.

if your fuse blows and you need to make a go of it after you fix the problem, you can wrap wire around the two legs of the blown fuse where it is, to short it and make continuity across the open fuse. or clamp the two spade legs together with an alligator clip to make a connection.
 
dnmun said:
EdwardNY said:
What I decided to do after looking at the inline fuse holder was to just solder the power wires directly to the ATC fuse. Not the best idea if you need to replace the fuse out during a drive but it will eliminate alot of the fuse holder problems. I figured if it blew a 40amp fuse, then I probably have bigger issues and shouldn't be riding the bike anyway until I figure out what is broke.

i have always avoided fuses, but now i think i will solder a fuse right onto the top connector on the ping pack. i have one of those maxi 40A fuses with wide spades so i can solder the wire to that, and then attach the wire to the battery case for strain relief to prevent damage to the battery terminal.

Nice picture of this in an old thread:

Reid Welch: Fusing the Ping Pack and then seal it for underwater stunts
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7454&start=255#p148920
 
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