liveforphysics
100 TW
You did totally out grow those slicks Arlin.
Luke, since you will visit Arlo in BC why not repeat the Cross Canada trip that Justin did in 2008 and make it up to Montreal for the Formula-E with your DSR and 18kW charging power! =)) after all that's just 5000km
I'm kidding! as well.. but that would be cool.. 8)
Doc
Thats a cool way to do it... Find max torque and stay there. So even with spinning slicks (which need like 30% slip or something) it will find the max torque and try to hold it.HighHopes said:Luke, since you will visit Arlo in BC why not repeat the Cross Canada trip that Justin did in 2008 and make it up to Montreal for the Formula-E with your DSR and 18kW charging power! =)) after all that's just 5000km
I'm kidding! as well.. but that would be cool.. 8)
Doc
stop by my place along the way for a BEvERage too!
alro, skimming over your tire spin problem.. i wonder if your controller would benefit from addition of torque control. this is not current control, not speed control, not position control (which shouldn't be in your controller).. its torque control. just another loop really, can be open loop as you probably don't ahve a torque sensor. its useful for detecting tire spin and doing something about it. just a thought.
Thanks for the tips.Ohbse said:Having had a look at vids again wearing headphones, I think you might have some damping tweaks to make on the front axle. When running soft sidewall slicks it's somewhat tricky to get the suspension to reduce oscillation as the easiest movement is in the tire. If your shocks are adjustable at all I would back off your damping/rebound considerably and try again. If not then start looking at what the fast honda guys are running as a baseline.
Be cautious when looking at tire choices, I would say your current pair should get you well into the 11's with tweaks. If you go to a taller slick like 25.5 or 26 inch then you're starting to get into axle snapping territory, especially if you haven't got suspension motion and torque delivery dialed in. It might be a good shortcut to quick times, but might be a bit heartbreaking too if you continuously smash shit. I realise that's all part of the journey, but if you're driving the car there and hoping to drive home... bit different than if you've got a trailer and alternatives.
200-250hp continousMrJoshua said:Arlo, I know its not exactly in the scope of this thread but you have poked around a Leaf controller more than most people so you are probably a good person to ask: What kind of power do you think the factory leaf controller is capable of if you replaced its brain with something like http://advantics.fr/umc-drive-3-0-universal-motor-controller/? I'm wondering if it could be a cheap way to use the factory stuff in other chassis and possibly push the limits a bit.
If you study the OEM data they make 80kw at 2000rpm and rate it continuously at 2000 rpm at 80kw as well at higher rpm at 80kw.MrJoshua said:Thank you for the quick reply! Assuming the setup isn't battery limited where do you focus your push into the headroom? More amps, more volts, or both? Whats likely to kill the factory guts?
Its in the video.MrJoshua said:Did you ever get a chance to post your dyno graph? I'm trying to get an idea of the voltage needed to carry out that 210 ft lbs high enough in the RPM range to top 200HP.
whoaaa! that's significant improvement! dunno what the going rate is for salvaged new leaf but sounds like its worth it. i have my eye on an old Volt battery near me...If you have something better then the oem LEAF it will be better the new leaf cells are 10c peak rated old cells are 3c peak rated.
MrJoshua said:Trying to get this to post as a pic. Trying out a Amazon after photobucket went nuts.
Edit-Try this:
Very cool! I didn't know endless sphere hosted their own photos. Makes things so much easier! Thank you AmberWolf!
That said-Arlo, you have an interesting motor curve that is unlike most I've seen. You don't have the board flat torque lower rpm part of the curve where you are holding against programmed amp limits but you also don't have the flat power curve I would expect if you are basically giving the motor all the battery can dish out with no limits. It is a beautiful dyno plot with great power over many thousands of RPM, it's just not what I've ever seen from an electric. I love it though. Its like you took a V8 with all it's wonderful torque-and then doubled the size of its lungs.
MrJoshua said:Sad that it blew up, but it is fun to follow along in the process.
zombiess said:The inertia run issue was most likely due to the dyno control loop and the your motor drive control loop finding an unfortunate resonance with each other. I wouldn't be surprised if your motor drive can respond much faster to load changes than a dyno typically used for ICE cars (it might not have enough gain/bandwidth). You might have better luck with a Mustang or Dynojet with a load module + you get to use tires (do not dyno on slicks/bias play race tires! They can chunk!).
Using dynos with load cells I've also found it's pretty easy to setup unrealistic loads. I found automatics / boosted setups would sometimes not produce results the same as running down the track or on the street, even with loads that were supposedly accurate representations. Funky numbers (sometimes way low).
I've also seen several issues with dyno operators not knowing enough about what they are doing and don't have the dyno configured properly.
Sorry to hear about the issues, at least you got to drive it home vs flat bed it, so still sorta a win.
zombiess said:(do not dyno on slicks/bias play race tires! They can chunk!)
drother said:zombiess said:(do not dyno on slicks/bias play race tires! They can chunk!)
Don't do it on drag radials either. Ask me how I know