High power RC motor and drive unit production

[recumpence]

I am definately open to making mounts that will be more "Bolt on" (assuming they will work without problems in operation).

I just need to know what most people want and go with that. The mount I have made now is just a universal mount that was easy to machine and would be easy to make fit with some minor fabricating or very simple welding (for a good welder).

Innitially most people were fine making the plain box style drive fit their bike on their own as long as they could get a good reduction unit premade. This new drive is much better than the first unit in many ways (including mounting options). I am sure it will operate reliably and smoothly. However, I want to see them in operation. Once they are a known useable drive (again, I am sure they will be great), I can begin designing a more easily mounted setup.

Matt

 

[nomad85]

Would the unit be able to mount to an xtracycle with your current attachment? If not could it be welded on?
(in the yellow area)

Would it be possible to position it so the motor could be mounter here, not specifically there but in that area above the chain stay(the red circle)

another pic for a better angle.

I only want the unit to attach to the xtracycle, as I want to be able to change bikes in the future without having to repurchase everything.

 

[recumpence]

The drive itself is aluminum. Steel tabs sould need to be welded to the frame to bolt to. Simple enough.

Matt

 

[GGoodrum]

Like Matt says, easy enough to get a couple of tabs welded on in that red/yellow section of the Xtracycle front piece. One thing you might consider is doing a "series drive" setup, like Mitch is doing. That way you would have one chain permenantly installed to the back wheel, on the Xtracycle, and then a short chain that goes from it to the crankset on whichever bike you put the Xtracycle on.

 

[recumpence]

FW adaptors are in! Man, these things are beautiful!

I will post pics sometime tonight.

I am very impressed with the quality of these!

Matt

 

[dimitrib90]

FW adaptors are in! Man, these things are beautiful!

I will post pics sometime tonight.

I am very impressed with the quality of these!

Matt

How do these FW adaptors work? Do you need to have an axle cup welded to it?

 

[recumpence]

It is a collar that set screws to the shaft with threads for the freewheel. Piece of cake.

Matt

 

[dimitrib90]

It is a collar that set screws to the shaft with threads for the freewheel. Piece of cake.

Matt

So do I need to get both the FW adaptor and crankset?

http://www.cyclone-usa.com/sc_images/products/313_large_image.gif

http://www.cyclone-usa.com/sc_images/products/314_large_image.gif

 

[MitchJi]

Hi,

The drive itself is aluminum. Steel tabs would need to be welded to the frame to bolt to. Simple enough.

Matt

I believe the Xtracycle frame is aluminum so I think Matt means aluminum tabs.

It is a collar that set screws to the shaft with threads for the freewheel. Piece of cake.

Matt

So do I need to get both the FW adaptor and crankset?

http://www.cyclone-usa.com/sc_images/products/313_large_image.gif
http://www.cyclone-usa.com/sc_images/products/314_large_image.gif

The FW adaptor Matt supplies is for the output shaft of his drive. You need a FW for that adaptor plus another FW and the associated crankset for connecting to the cranks.

EDIT: The FW on the drive is so that pedaling doesn't back-drive the Drive/Motor. The Crankset FW is so the Motor doesn't back-drive the pedals.

I would recommend avoiding the Cyclone FW. There are at least two threads on ES on replacing the poor quality Cyclone FW with a White Eno FW (the 22t is the only model with the slots which make bolting convenient):
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1757&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=45

so the last few weeks of steady riding into work i've noticed some wear on the front freewheel. the one that cyclone sent seems pretty low quality and it was super wobbly after maybe 120 miles of riding - i could see the ball bearings! i spotted this post by timbits and decided to follow his setup. i got the parts last week and embarked on the drilling and fitting this weekend.

You might want to use this IPS Crankset instead of the Cyclone Parts:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7641&p=121448#p120751

Here's another IPS crankset, which is a bit less expensive. It also uses a standard 16T BMX freewheel, so you could actually replace this with a higher-quality ENO version.

I went ahead and ordered one of these, to see how well it works. If the FW doesn't hold up, I'll replace it with an ENO.

I used the stoker version of the IPS on my Giant. The standard shimano freewheel wore out really quickly and needed frequent repacking with grease. Went for a white eno and haven't had a problem since. Did need to get the IPS machined out 1mm in all directions to get it to fit though...

 

[dimitrib90]

Hi,

The drive itself is aluminum. Steel tabs would need to be welded to the frame to bolt to. Simple enough.

Matt

I believe the Xtracycle frame is aluminum so I think Matt means aluminum tabs.

It is a collar that set screws to the shaft with threads for the freewheel. Piece of cake.

Matt

So do I need to get both the FW adaptor and crankset?

http://www.cyclone-usa.com/sc_images/products/313_large_image.gif
http://www.cyclone-usa.com/sc_images/products/314_large_image.gif

The FW adaptor Matt supplies is for the output shaft of his drive. You need a FW for that adaptor plus another FW and the associated crankset for connecting to the cranks.

EDIT: The FW on the drive is so that pedaling doesn't back-drive the Drive/Motor. The Crankset FW is so the Motor doesn't back-drive the pedals.

I would recommend avoiding the Cyclone FW. There are at least two threads on ES on replacing the poor quality Cyclone FW with a White Eno FW (the 22t is the only model with the slots which make bolting convenient):
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1757&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=45

so the last few weeks of steady riding into work i've noticed some wear on the front freewheel. the one that cyclone sent seems pretty low quality and it was super wobbly after maybe 120 miles of riding - i could see the ball bearings! i spotted this post by timbits and decided to follow his setup. i got the parts last week and embarked on the drilling and fitting this weekend.

You might want to use this IPS Crankset instead of the Cyclone Parts:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7641&p=121448#p120751

Here's another IPS crankset, which is a bit less expensive. It also uses a standard 16T BMX freewheel, so you could actually replace this with a higher-quality ENO version.

I went ahead and ordered one of these, to see how well it works. If the FW doesn't hold up, I'll replace it with an ENO.

I used the stoker version of the IPS on my Giant. The standard shimano freewheel wore out really quickly and needed frequent repacking with grease. Went for a white eno and haven't had a problem since. Did need to get the IPS machined out 1mm in all directions to get it to fit though...

Awesome. Im going to go pick up a eno freewheel tomorrow because white industries is located in petaluma which is really close to me.

 

[nomad85]

Hi,

The drive itself is aluminum. Steel tabs would need to be welded to the frame to bolt to. Simple enough.

Matt

I believe the Xtracycle frame is aluminum so I think Matt means aluminum tabs.

It's made of Cro-Moly

 

[recumpence]

Here are the FW adaptors. I got 60 of them made. The steel adaptor weighs 4.6 ounces. The aluminum adaptor weighs only 1.6 ounces!

The thread shoulder can be machined off allowing the set screw hub to be inside the FW thread section. That narrows the setup by 1/2 inch. But, it hides the set screws. However, in some situations, that may be desireable.

Anyway, I am happy with them!

Matt

 

[johnrobholmes]

Ohh Yeah!! What bore did you stick with, 12 or 10mm?

 

[GGoodrum]

Ohh Yeah!! What bore did you stick with, 12 or 10mm?

Looks like 1/2".

 

[deecanio]

very nice 8)
although i like the idea of hiding the grub screws in the thread you have to devise a way to remove the freewheel if the grubs came loose?
sweet as they are i reckon

D

 

[recumpence]

Ohh Yeah!! What bore did you stick with, 12 or 10mm?

Looks like 1/2".

Yup, 1/2 inch.

Matt

 

[dimitrib90]

Yup, 1/2 inch.

Matt

Can you have a 12mm because 1/2 inch is about .7mm too big for my turnigy motor? Please.

 

[GGoodrum]

Yup, 1/2 inch.

Matt

Can you have a 12mm because 1/2 inch is about .7mm too big for my turnigy motor? Please.

The adapters are not for the motor shafts, but for the output shaft of the drive, which is 1/2". It is not too hard to get pulleys for 12mm motor shafts. Plus, you can drill these out pretty easily.

-- Gary

 

[dimitrib90]

Can you have a 12mm because 1/2 inch is about .7mm too big for my turnigy motor? Please.

The adapters are not for the motor shafts, but for the output shaft of the drive, which is 1/2". It is not too hard to get pulleys for 12mm motor shafts. Plus, you can drill these out pretty easily.

-- Gary[/quote]

Im totally confused. Is there a diagram or something that I can look at?

 

[nomad85]

Can you have a 12mm because 1/2 inch is about .7mm too big for my turnigy motor? Please.

The adapters are not for the motor shafts, but for the output shaft of the drive, which is 1/2". It is not too hard to get pulleys for 12mm motor shafts. Plus, you can drill these out pretty easily.

-- Gary

Im totally confused. Is there a diagram or something that I can look at?[/quote]

I think the motor is attached to a pulley, that is attached to another larger pulley with a belt, on the other side of the unit directly attached to the larger pulley this adapter with the freewheel attaches to the drive wheel with a chain. This allows you to pedal the bike without turning the motor, making it easier.
There are some pictures a few pages back that might help you visualize it, and I am sure Matt will post a fully assembled drive picture soon.

 

[MitchJi]

Hi,

Can you have a 12mm because 1/2 inch is about .7mm too big for my turnigy motor? Please.

The adapters are not for the motor shafts, but for the output shaft of the drive, which is 1/2". It is not too hard to get pulleys for 12mm motor shafts. Plus, you can drill these out pretty easily.

-- Gary

I'm totally confused. Is there a diagram or something that I can look at?

Reading the entire thread would be a good place to start :wink: :
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7180&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=180#p114125

Here is a quick sketch of the drive unit...

For the 2 stage version, where it is labeled "Sprocket to Wheel" is the location for the FW adaptor and FW (the output sprocket will freewheel).

Awesome. Im going to go pick up a eno freewheel tomorrow because white industries is located in petaluma which is really close to me.

I bet you can get a better price on Ebay.

 

[dimitrib90]

It all makes sense now. My only concern now is I have no idea how I would mount this to the bike. Can you buy this as a whole kit? When do you expect this to be completely finished?

 

[nomad85]

Can you buy this as a whole kit? When do you expect this to be completely finished?

Right now I am content to get the drives out there and in use. It is easy to design various style mounts for easier installation later. Also, with the power these drives will be puting out, a clamping style mount will probably move on the frame. I think a welded or drilled and bolted mount will be required to handle the power.

Matt

 

[safe]

Now that the word is out that these RC motors are so good I suspect that everyone is going to want to use them.

They've got a motor/controller for sale at $230 in the for sale section.

What is this geardown component going to add to this price?

Everyone is drooling over this stuff you are creating recumpence and you are sort of the "top of the line" product for ebikes and we expect the price to not be cheap. (your stuff is the focus of envy for most of us)

How much?

$200?

Your work is simply fantastic!!!

 

[nomad85]

I think its going to be 220$ for the single stage reduction, and more for the dual stage, its somewhere back in the thread.