High power RC motor and drive unit production

[recumpence]

thats like a golden ticket to the wonker factory :lol:

Wonka, D., please..... Willy is bad enough......

We just watched that movie. Too funny! :wink:

A trip to my shop is kind of like seeing a super model's bathroom. It is an honor to be there, but in the end, it is just a bathroom.

Matt

 

[skydog]

Super Model's Bathroom!
I'm simultaneously turned on and grossed out

(Must avert my eyes to the aluminum shavings on the floor.)

 

[GGoodrum]

Another thing, Dee, that 3210 he got a look at was yours, so he's seen it before you.

 

[etard]

OK Gary, we have allowed you the necessary 48 hours to duct tape Matt's drive to your bike, how about some pics and a video of a burnout already :wink:

 

[deecanio]

:lol: :lol: :lol: indeed Mr G anything to report ?
i'm not far from done with my guestimating and alls looking good, just need the gb now and then it's ready to get built
By the way Gary when you get those brackets made i'll take two please, black,natch 8) .

 

[GGoodrum]

OK Gary, we have allowed you the necessary 48 hours to duct tape Matt's drive to your bike, how about some pics and a video of a burnout already :wink:

Actually, I've just been measuring the diameters of the downtubes and seattubes for the 7-8 various frames I have here, and it looks like there's lots of variations. I do have several with what appears to be 32mm, or 1-1/4", seat tubes, but the down tubes are all over the place. One size I have on a couple MTB frames is about 35mm, or 1-3/8". My Townie has this for the tube on the top, but the down tube is like 41mm, or 1-5/8". The seat tube on the Townie, which looks like the best place to mount the drive assembly for this bike, is 32mm/1.25". Anyway, Miles is helping me to do the CAD work for a couple different ID clamp diameters, and Matt is going to see about getting them made.

The folding bikes are more difficult, as the frames are not round, for most of them, and the best spot for most is in the triangular shaped areas just behind the seat post, like where I have the Cyclone 1000W motor mounted. One option I'm considering is maybe figuring out how to mount the drive on this bike, in place of the Cyclone. This will give me a direct performance comparison, but I hate to take apart one of only two ebikes I have running at the moment.

By the way Gary when you get those brackets made i'll take two please, black,natch 8) .

What is your seat tube diameter? Is that where you want to mount the drive? Can't remember.

-- Gary

 

[deecanio]

Hi Gary,

my seatube diameter is the same as your mtb's, 35mm or 1 3/8" and yes, that's where i want to mount if i can, i think i can get away with it now i've got the frame bare and can see better, one thing i have to watch is that my shock is near my seatpost so the brackets need to clear but i have at least 15mm for the bracket which should suffice.

Cheers,

D

 

[1clue]

Matt,

I didn't know you had a supermodel in your shop, you didn't show me that part!

Here is a photo from the net of my bike:

Mine is dark metallic green if that matters to you.

I would like to convert it to under-seat steering too.

 

[1clue]

Another thing about the Burley.

Most of the tubes on it are not round. They seemed compelled to squish the ends to match up with the next part. For example, the bottom bracket is welded to a piece which is squashed flat with respect to the horizon. This makes the tube wider at the bracket than the original diameter. It goes on down the line like that, I'm not really sure if there are any truly round tubes.

Another thing which is disturbingly lacking is the mount points for things like water bottles and pumps and tool bags. They didn't seem to feel they were necessary.

 

[recumpence]

The main tube under the seat should be round. My Burley Limbo is round there.

Also, maybe mounting the drive to the seat skewers with brackets to suspend the drive under the seat would be good.

Last option would be to weld tabs to the frame.

Matt

 

[1clue]

I was thinking more along the lines of making a fiberglass or carbon fiber mount, molded directly to the tube. If I include part of the rear fork in that, I can handle the twisting and thrust that way too.

I Do Not Want to alter the bike.

 

[1clue]

Hey Matt,

Where did you get that seat? Did it come with the bike, or is it after-market? Did you get it locally? If not, do you know of a place locally where I could get fitted?

 

[AussieJester]

You can use the EDIT button to add to your original message buddy instead of making a new post...

Nice bike to will be nearly sweet as Mr recumpence SIR's when you have it hooked up with one of his L337 drives ...best of luck...
I doubt you will need it though seeing your close to Matts and hes an oober nice fella he i'm sure will help you through any hiccups

KiM

Apprentice Gangsta 8)

 

[Miles]

This is the final version of the clamps that Gary and I designed for Matt's gearbox.

 

[deecanio]

superb Miles 8)
i'll be taking two of
is the design standard but the tube size variable or is it a one size adjust to all?
i would guess each needs to different so that the clamp is flat to the tube all the way around but i guess one could do say 30-35mm??

Cheers Miles,

D

 

[Miles]

Hi D,

They need to be a close fit. Gary is planning to do 32mm and 35mm variants, within this clamp size.

 

[recumpence]

Clue,

The seat came with the bike. You can search e-Bay for "Recumbent Seat" and you will probably find one there. I love that seat!


Miles,

It looks good. That was pretty much what I had planned for my BMX build. I like it. I was leary to design a clamp style mount without knowing what the average builder would want. If this sells well, we can make any needed changes and continue production. I feel it is good to have these clamps as well as just the bare drive available for those who cannot or do not want to use the wrap around clamp system.

Though the clamps will add cost to the drive, they will be an option, not a requirement to purchase a drive.

Matt

 

[deecanio]

thats marvellous
i'll check on mine a bit more accurately but i think i'm for the 35mm ones.
I'll have to see if Matt'll do me 2 on top of Garys, i love the design btw, simple, elegant, strong, just whats needed so thanks for helping again Miles


**EDIT** Matt is it possible to have two of them shipped with the drive do you think or are you too pushed for time?

Cheers,

D

 

[Miles]

We could probably use plastic shimstock to get a close fit to small variations of tube size:
http://www.auburn-mfg.com/products/shimstock.html

It would protect the precious paintwork, too

 

[deecanio]

ooooh, i was just planning on some old innertube :lol:

 

[recumpence]

D,

Once Gary and I settle on final specs, I doubt I will prototype these. They will go straight into production. That requires Dave programming the HAAS (not a big deal), getting the material, and fitting it into his schedule. Then any anodizing would take place.

It may be best for you to get the drive and have it in hand to mess with and the clamps (if needed) will ship later.

Matt

 

[deecanio]

Aye sounds like a plan Matt that way i can just tape it on and get things lined up whilst we are waiting.
We're looking good now, lets see what me uncle Jozz is doing next month

Cheers,

D

 

[GGoodrum]

If it turns out there is another size that is common, we can do that as well. I think 32 and 35mm will work for many setups, so we'll see how it goes.

The "beauty" of these is that they will match the rest of the drive, which is great. I've had lots of ideas on how try and jury-rig something together to mount the drive, but they were all pretty ghetto-ish.

The small threaded holes on the end will be to attach a small plate, or a box, for the controller and the RC throttle convertor board.

-- Gary

 

[1clue]

What size battery packs are you maniacs using now?

I understand 12s to get 48 volts. How big are the cells you're buying and what sort of range do you get?

Matt's blog site is a little bit unclear, he says he's using 6s2p LiPo to get 48v, but it would really be 12s1p. And the 10 AH would technically be 10,000 mAh, and I don't think think the cells I saw could do that.

I'm trying to anticipate battery pack size and charging needs. So I would like to hear from you guys, to find out what you do.

I anticipate using this thing every available day for a 40 mile round trip, so I would like it to be as foolproof as possible.

I also want advice on a charger.

Thanks.

 

[Miles]

And the 10 AH would technically be 10,000 mAh,....