Our production motors are blue right now for some brand recognition, but if Matt starts selling this as a complete package then I don't see why we couldn't get them all made the same color. The problem is that my motors are going to lag Matt's drives by some time. I'm still waiting for the prototype motor parts to come in, taking that into production is not easy or fast. I'm still working out my 40mm series and will be getting the first batch in next week, so the 60mm series will be a at least a few months out before they are widely for sale. The good news is that my design shouldn't need much revision since I'm pretty down with the motor prototyping side of things.
High power RC motor and drive unit production
- Thread starter recumpence
- Start date
recumpence
1 GW
CNCAddict said:
That is so cool. There are other motors out there that can do the job. But, they all have some drawback to EV use. Your motors look to be the best option. I really appreciate your willingness to make the one-off 60 series motor for me to test (I will be mailing you a check soon). :wink:
Also, Dave said he can do any engraving we want without any problem at all. He has art software in his CNC computer. So, that is cool. Also, I showed him a standard blank aluminum drive pulley and asked if he could lighten and pretty it up. "No problem, that would be really easy in my HAAS." So, that is something I want him to do.
Anything is possible. I think my design is sound. But once we know everything is working well, I can start doing some radical and beautiful stuff. Form follows function. But, I never like something that works but is ugly. :wink:
Matt
:EDIT:
Here are some pictures FINALLY!
The aluminum part shown is the center link between the stage one jackshaft and stage two jackshaft. The clamp bolts are not installed yet. As you can see the jackshafts are housed in mechanical tubing that is clamped by the center link. The motor plate is not made yet. But, it will look similar to the center link (wrap around clamp) with a flat face plate on one side for the motor to mount to. Now you can understand how the drive is adjustable. The motor plate or the center link can be turned on the jackshaft bearing tubes, then tightened down holding the new position. This way the drive can be configured in a 10 or 11 inch long drive, or a triangle layout with motor on top and two jackshafts undernieth, or any degree of curved configuration in between.
Shown in the pics is a large pulley and second stage sprocket. For most bikes, the secondary sprocket and large pulley can be much smaller. These larger units are for maximum reduction. This drive will be roughly 20 to 1 with these large pulley/sprocket layout. I wanted to see how large the biggest drive would be (or could be) with this framework arrangement.
I also included a short video of the HAAS running these back side of the parts.
All these stage two links should be finished today. I am not sure when Dave will be running the motor plates. Maybe Monday? He is waiting for some material and special milling tools for a high priority job. Once those come in, he will need to take a break for a few days to run that job. After that, he will be back on my drive parts. I am hoping he will be able to make the motor plates Monday. That way I can show you a nearly complete drive.
Anyway, this way you can see the basic drive layout and the overall quality of the parts so far.
Matt
lawsonuw
1 kW
Geeze, that Haas has a tool changer, no excuse NOT to use a Face Mill, Shell mill, or at least (my favorite) a 1 inch diameter two flute end mill with a 3/4 inch shank. 
(while we're on the subject of tools, a huge slitting saw is fun as it could part your clamps from the base without having to flip the parts.)
Anywho, The design looks like a real winner. Clamping tensioners onto the bearing tubes should nicely sidestep the need for adjustable center to center distance. How about making a mount that clamps onto the bearing tube of the output shaft?
My two bits,
Marty
(while we're on the subject of tools, a huge slitting saw is fun as it could part your clamps from the base without having to flip the parts.) Anywho, The design looks like a real winner. Clamping tensioners onto the bearing tubes should nicely sidestep the need for adjustable center to center distance. How about making a mount that clamps onto the bearing tube of the output shaft?
My two bits,
Marty
recumpence
1 GW
lawsonuw said:Geeze, that Haas has a tool changer, no excuse NOT to use a Face Mill, Shell mill, or at least (my favorite) a 1 inch diameter two flute end mill with a 3/4 inch shank.
Anywho, The design looks like a real winner. Clamping tensioners onto the bearing tubes should nicely sidestep the need for adjustable center to center distance. How about making a mount that clamps onto the bearing tube of the output shaft?
My two bits,
Marty
Way ahead of ya Marty!
I am making a secondary drive chain tensioner that clamps around the tube. There will also be frame mounts that will be either screwed to teh two holes in the side of the links on the two stage drive, or clamp around the tube on the single stage drive.
Matt
GGoodrum
1 MW
Great looking parts, as usual. I'm still a bit confused on what the end product will look like, but we're getting closer.
I'm still a bit confused on what the end product will look like, but we're getting closer. 
Hangdog98
10 W
Fantastic pieces Matt. I've been following the project with great interest and I look forward to buying one of your 'boxes' and one of Dave's motors. I hope I have something to contribute to the forum, though you guys seem to have it wired already. I've worked in professional motor racing and downhill racing bike development particularly in the areas of MTB suspension design and internally geared bicycle hubs (I worked with Rohloff in DH competition testing and developed suspension for KHS, Lahar and designed bikes used in the MTB World Cup). This EV bike thing really takes a hold of your head doesn't it! My first eBike will likely be one of my conventional bicycles but I hope to acqire a Go-One velomobile in the near future. Exciting times ahead.
recumpence
1 GW
Miles said:
Oh, man, you and me both. I wish we had better offerings out there.
Matt
etard
100 kW
Matt,
How are you securing the axles inside of the bearings? Also, what kind of keyway would you suggest on a 10mm axle? I can't believe your are making EVERYTHING from scratch!! That is an incredible undertaking. Have you thought about designing your own swing arm or rear triangle? It would be a little heavier, and it would be suspended weight, which is never good, but might be advantageous to have the chain shorter?
CNC,
Is there a website or some pics online to see one of your previous motors? Are you on rcgroups?
Thanks
How are you securing the axles inside of the bearings? Also, what kind of keyway would you suggest on a 10mm axle? I can't believe your are making EVERYTHING from scratch!! That is an incredible undertaking. Have you thought about designing your own swing arm or rear triangle? It would be a little heavier, and it would be suspended weight, which is never good, but might be advantageous to have the chain shorter?
CNC,
Is there a website or some pics online to see one of your previous motors? Are you on rcgroups?
Thanks
recumpence
1 GW
Here is a picture of the 40 series motor in a thread on RCgroups. :wink:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952325
The bearings are flanged and pressed into the tubing (1/8 inch wall tubing). The shafts are secured in place by the pulley and or sprocket at each side.
I am not making every part. The sprockets are industry standard items and the pulleys are made from standard thick OEM pulleys from Stock Drive, then machined for light weight. Everything else is made from scratch.
I may machine the pulleys into a swept 5 spoke patern. Ideally, I would love to anodize them, then machine the spokes open. That would give a two tone look to the pulleys. But, one thing at a time.
Matt
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952325
The bearings are flanged and pressed into the tubing (1/8 inch wall tubing). The shafts are secured in place by the pulley and or sprocket at each side.
I am not making every part. The sprockets are industry standard items and the pulleys are made from standard thick OEM pulleys from Stock Drive, then machined for light weight. Everything else is made from scratch.
I may machine the pulleys into a swept 5 spoke patern. Ideally, I would love to anodize them, then machine the spokes open. That would give a two tone look to the pulleys. But, one thing at a time.
Matt
MitchJi
10 MW
Hi Matt,
When you get to the point that you can deliver a drive that is machined to accommodate David's motor and the size of the motor is firmly established I would like to purchase a drive. That way I could get the mounting finished while waiting for the motor. If I get everything finished before David (seems unlikely ) I assume I could buy an inexpensive HXT with a similar Kv and mount it for temporary use? Maybe you could even sell the drive configured for both Davids drive and an appropriate HXT?
I really like the idea of anodized (black or dark grey drive and motor would go well with my frame).
I also really like your idea of supplying a wiring diagram hopefully with recommended gauges and connectors. I am learning as I go. On a per drive basis this would take very little extra time for you or someone on the forum to provide but would save some of us a substantial amount of time.
Unless I'm missing a potential problem maybe you should consider mounting your motor/gearbox on the frame and using the suspension pivot point for a jackshaft rather than a motor/gb mount. This might be easier than using the pivot point for a motor mount, your motor and GB would be sprung weight (protected from bouncing) and there would be fixed chain length's both between the motor/gb and the jackshaft and between the jackshaft and rear sprocket. Unless I'm missing an issue this might also be a good solution for D.
This GB and Motor (especially the GB) makes it possible for forum members to build a much nicer ebike than would otherwise have been possible.
Thank You Very Very Much!
Mitch
CNCAddict said:
When you get to the point that you can deliver a drive that is machined to accommodate David's motor and the size of the motor is firmly established I would like to purchase a drive. That way I could get the mounting finished while waiting for the motor. If I get everything finished before David (seems unlikely
) I assume I could buy an inexpensive HXT with a similar Kv and mount it for temporary use? Maybe you could even sell the drive configured for both Davids drive and an appropriate HXT?I really like the idea of anodized (black or dark grey drive and motor would go well with my frame).
I also really like your idea of supplying a wiring diagram hopefully with recommended gauges and connectors. I am learning as I go. On a per drive basis this would take very little extra time for you or someone on the forum to provide but would save some of us a substantial amount of time.
Unless I'm missing a potential problem maybe you should consider mounting your motor/gearbox on the frame and using the suspension pivot point for a jackshaft rather than a motor/gb mount. This might be easier than using the pivot point for a motor mount, your motor and GB would be sprung weight (protected from bouncing) and there would be fixed chain length's both between the motor/gb and the jackshaft and between the jackshaft and rear sprocket. Unless I'm missing an issue this might also be a good solution for D.
This GB and Motor (especially the GB) makes it possible for forum members to build a much nicer ebike than would otherwise have been possible.
Thank You Very Very Much!
Mitch
Hi All,
Looking good (i think), same as Gary im still not sure what the drive will look like complete
hopefully Matt will pop up some more pics so we can see what we're looking at (thanks for the first pics btw Matt).
im wondering if i could get away with a single stage too? time will tell i guess.
Im getting on with getting the rear wheel built ready for the drive, should be built within the next week or two so hopefully the drive will be ready around the same time, does anyone know what sprockets i should be looking at for the rear wheel? just so i can have a look at them really....... is everyone using the same pitch chain and sprocket for the final drive?
I was a little shocked at the size of the dual stage in its straight config, 11" doesn't allow me to mount where i wanted to but i could always mount on the underside of the downtube if it comes to it (will look at the flexibility before i decide).
Anyway machining looks class as always, this should be way robust enough 8)
Cheers,
D
Looking good (i think), same as Gary im still not sure what the drive will look like complete
hopefully Matt will pop up some more pics so we can see what we're looking at (thanks for the first pics btw Matt).im wondering if i could get away with a single stage too? time will tell i guess.
Im getting on with getting the rear wheel built ready for the drive, should be built within the next week or two so hopefully the drive will be ready around the same time, does anyone know what sprockets i should be looking at for the rear wheel? just so i can have a look at them really....... is everyone using the same pitch chain and sprocket for the final drive?
I was a little shocked at the size of the dual stage in its straight config, 11" doesn't allow me to mount where i wanted to but i could always mount on the underside of the downtube if it comes to it (will look at the flexibility before i decide).
Anyway machining looks class as always, this should be way robust enough 8)
Cheers,
D
hawaiioutdoors
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 8
Aloha,
I've been drooling ever since I've saw (Matt Shumaker electric recumbent bicycle) at http://www.recumbents.com/WISIL/shumaker/default.htm ... The updates there have halted. I then tried to gather parts to make my own version of Matt's masterpiece, but it’s like doing brain-surgery with a ball-ping hammer... I want the bling, So I want in on the purchase of Matt’s MTB version. What's the guesstimated price of the super-duper model?
Mahalo, VIK
I've been drooling ever since I've saw (Matt Shumaker electric recumbent bicycle) at http://www.recumbents.com/WISIL/shumaker/default.htm ... The updates there have halted. I then tried to gather parts to make my own version of Matt's masterpiece, but it’s like doing brain-surgery with a ball-ping hammer... I want the bling, So I want in on the purchase of Matt’s MTB version. What's the guesstimated price of the super-duper model?
Mahalo, VIK
recumpence
1 GW
The price of the drive depends on the total production cost. I am shooting for roughly $300 for the dual stage drive.
D,
The 11 inch length of the two stage drive I have here is the maximum length it could be. That particular drive is using a very large secondary sprocket for maximum reduction. That is also the folded out length. Using a smaller sprocket would bring the length down to 10 inches. Folding the drive will bring the overall length to roughly 7 inches but would increase its height because the motor would then be located on top of the drive instead of at the long end of it.
Do I have you totally confused yet?
The motor plate will have a split clamp to clamp onto the bearing tubes just like the center link. That is how the drive can be reconfigured. The drive can be completely folded up to look a bit like a triangle, layed out flat, or any position in between.
I will post pics of the completed drive with the motor plate as soon as the motor plates are made.
Matt
D,
The 11 inch length of the two stage drive I have here is the maximum length it could be. That particular drive is using a very large secondary sprocket for maximum reduction. That is also the folded out length. Using a smaller sprocket would bring the length down to 10 inches. Folding the drive will bring the overall length to roughly 7 inches but would increase its height because the motor would then be located on top of the drive instead of at the long end of it.
Do I have you totally confused yet?
The motor plate will have a split clamp to clamp onto the bearing tubes just like the center link. That is how the drive can be reconfigured. The drive can be completely folded up to look a bit like a triangle, layed out flat, or any position in between.
I will post pics of the completed drive with the motor plate as soon as the motor plates are made.
Matt
GGoodrum
1 MW
Yep, I'm totally confused as well, but I will wait for the pics, just like everybody else.
recumpence
1 GW
I really wish I could communicate the design better than I have. There are always compromised to everything. I have tried to eliminate as many compromises as possible. The single stage drive has a maximum reduction of 6 to 1. That is fine for most cruising. If you want serious torque and/or a higher RPM motor, the dual stage is needed.
The best illustration I can come up with to describe the drive layout is by comparing it to a chain. If you take two links of a chain (inner link and one outer link) and lay them on a table. They can lay flat and be relatively long, but flat. Or you can fold them so they are shaped like a triangle. The links are much shorter in overall length, but taller and shaped like a piramid.
See what I mean?
Anyway, trust me, it is cool. It is not as compact as my recumbent drive. But, this drive is hugely rugged, adjustable, and able to achieve a much wider range of ratios.
Dave is done with the links I showed you pics of and is starting on the motor plates in a few days.
Matt
The best illustration I can come up with to describe the drive layout is by comparing it to a chain. If you take two links of a chain (inner link and one outer link) and lay them on a table. They can lay flat and be relatively long, but flat. Or you can fold them so they are shaped like a triangle. The links are much shorter in overall length, but taller and shaped like a piramid.
See what I mean?
Anyway, trust me, it is cool. It is not as compact as my recumbent drive. But, this drive is hugely rugged, adjustable, and able to achieve a much wider range of ratios.
Dave is done with the links I showed you pics of and is starting on the motor plates in a few days.
Matt
John in CR
100 TW
recumpence said:I really wish I could communicate the design better than I have. There are always compromised to everything. I have tried to eliminate as many compromises as possible. The single stage drive has a maximum reduction of 6 to 1. That is fine for most cruising. If you want serious torque and/or a higher RPM motor, the dual stage is needed.
The best illustration I can come up with to describe the drive layout is by comparing it to a chain. If you take two links of a chain (inner link and one outer link) and lay them on a table. They can lay flat and be relatively long, but flat. Or you can fold them so they are shaped like a triangle. The links are much shorter in overall length, but taller and shaped like a piramid.
See what I mean?
Anyway, trust me, it is cool. It is not as compact as my recumbent drive. But, this drive is hugely rugged, adjustable, and able to achieve a much wider range of ratios.
Dave is done with the links I showed you pics of and is starting on the motor plates in a few days.
Matt
I'm sticking with the fact that I trust you, because your analogy lost me. Maybe it's the rum and coke and Monday Night Football distraction, but I'm not so sure. I've also heard in several instances that 6:1 is a desirable limit for single stage reductions, but without any formal engineering training I don't really understand it, though it's easy enough for me to just accept it.
John
etard
100 kW
Lemme give it a try,
Look at your stem that holds onto your steering stem and handlebars, this is what Matt has had machined, it clamps onto aluminum tubing. Then imagine bearings pressed into your handlebar, then inside the bearings a steel shaft that turns freely inside the handlebar tube. Now mount gears on each side of the shaft, that is what you have in the last 2 pictures. Study a motorcycle triple clamp, that is basicly what Dave has milled. Combine two of these (like a chain) with parallel tubes for a dual stage reduction. I think what might be confusing is Matt's recumbent is a box, with the gears and motor on the inside. This system is opposite, everything is mounted on the outside with all parts around the mounting bracket. Does that help anyone?
Look at your stem that holds onto your steering stem and handlebars, this is what Matt has had machined, it clamps onto aluminum tubing. Then imagine bearings pressed into your handlebar, then inside the bearings a steel shaft that turns freely inside the handlebar tube. Now mount gears on each side of the shaft, that is what you have in the last 2 pictures. Study a motorcycle triple clamp, that is basicly what Dave has milled. Combine two of these (like a chain) with parallel tubes for a dual stage reduction. I think what might be confusing is Matt's recumbent is a box, with the gears and motor on the inside. This system is opposite, everything is mounted on the outside with all parts around the mounting bracket. Does that help anyone?
hawaiioutdoors
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 8
Aloha, is there a sign-up some where, for those that want to purchase the drive unit?
Can the item be paid via PayPal? I don't mind paying the transaction fees. Much faster and safer then sending USPS.
I was thinking of using the Plettenberg Predator 37/6 Motor with Schulze Future 40.160.
I have a 2004 Yeti DH-9 mountain bike waiting for some uphill power. Its buttery smooth flyin downhill, but is one pig going uphill.
Question: When getting air, is there a way to prevent over whinning the motor? like a rev limiter...or is that not needed.
I was looking at the Derbi DH 2.0 - Motorcycle Mountain Bike Concept
http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2008/05/08/derbi-dh-20-motorcycle-mountain-bike-concept/
but want silence instead of the chainsaw sound.
Mahalo, VIK
Can the item be paid via PayPal? I don't mind paying the transaction fees. Much faster and safer then sending USPS.
I was thinking of using the Plettenberg Predator 37/6 Motor with Schulze Future 40.160.
I have a 2004 Yeti DH-9 mountain bike waiting for some uphill power. Its buttery smooth flyin downhill, but is one pig going uphill.
Question: When getting air, is there a way to prevent over whinning the motor? like a rev limiter...or is that not needed.
I was looking at the Derbi DH 2.0 - Motorcycle Mountain Bike Concept
http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2008/05/08/derbi-dh-20-motorcycle-mountain-bike-concept/
but want silence instead of the chainsaw sound.
Mahalo, VIK
MitchJi
10 MW
Hi David,
How about a discount (should be less expensive, right ) for a motor with "cores made of amorphous metal coupled with ferrite magnet rotors" instead of "magnets made of rare earth metals such as Neodymium (Nd) or Dysprosium (Dy)":
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2008/11/hitachi-develop.html#more
D,
A good place for you to start is to look at the overall gearing (including tire size) that Matt used with his recumbent. He got 40mph and said low end acceleration was good not great. You probably don't need 40mph but probably do want great low end acceleration. Figure out the reduction that will give you the top speed you need (should be pretty easy) and then ask Matt if he thinks that is adequate for the low end power you want. It it is then you just need to decide how much of that reduction to get from the drive and how much between the drive and rear sprocket. If isn't then you need to consider either more power or lower top speed/more gear reduction. This should be a pretty quick and easy way to get you close to the gearing you need.
VIK,
I think using the Plettenberg Predator will be hard (no output shaft). Davids motor will have similar power for a lot less or you could consider a Plettenberg Terminator (the Heli Model).
How about a discount (should be less expensive, right
) for a motor with "cores made of amorphous metal coupled with ferrite magnet rotors" instead of "magnets made of rare earth metals such as Neodymium (Nd) or Dysprosium (Dy)":http://www.greencarcongress.com/2008/11/hitachi-develop.html#more
D,
A good place for you to start is to look at the overall gearing (including tire size) that Matt used with his recumbent. He got 40mph and said low end acceleration was good not great. You probably don't need 40mph but probably do want great low end acceleration. Figure out the reduction that will give you the top speed you need (should be pretty easy) and then ask Matt if he thinks that is adequate for the low end power you want. It it is then you just need to decide how much of that reduction to get from the drive and how much between the drive and rear sprocket. If isn't then you need to consider either more power or lower top speed/more gear reduction. This should be a pretty quick and easy way to get you close to the gearing you need.
VIK,
I think using the Plettenberg Predator will be hard (no output shaft). Davids motor will have similar power for a lot less or you could consider a Plettenberg Terminator (the Heli Model).
Hi Mitch,
indeed im after acceleration over top speed for sure, i will probably have to use a dual stage as Matt sais and like John im also happy to accept Matts guidance all the way to wheelieville
my tyres are 25" edge to edge but i've no idea how to calculate what reduction i will need - i'll probably post up in my own thread and beg for someone to help me with the math
To be honest i'll hang on to Matts coat tails as his setup for his mtb will probably be exactly what i want - i cant see having 1" difference in wheel size will make much difference overall.
I would want a top end of at least 30 but i figure thats quitedoable and have stump pulling torque too.
the reduction box being a little bigger than the recumbants is ok as i think robustness is top priority for me, i've broke enough hubs to know that this is the only route that may stand up to a battering.
i'm going to use the pletty terminator too so at least i know that Matt has first hand knowledge of what it's capable of.
the whole point of my change isn't to massively improve performance (although i'd take an increase gladly) as i was totally happy with what my puma gave me in that respect.
All im after is at least the same performance but get the weight out of the rear wheel so that my bike regains its "bike e ness" meaning i can jump it and ride it hard as it was meant to be.
Cheers,
D
indeed im after acceleration over top speed for sure, i will probably have to use a dual stage as Matt sais and like John im also happy to accept Matts guidance all the way to wheelieville
my tyres are 25" edge to edge but i've no idea how to calculate what reduction i will need - i'll probably post up in my own thread and beg for someone to help me with the math
To be honest i'll hang on to Matts coat tails as his setup for his mtb will probably be exactly what i want - i cant see having 1" difference in wheel size will make much difference overall.
I would want a top end of at least 30 but i figure thats quitedoable and have stump pulling torque too.
the reduction box being a little bigger than the recumbants is ok as i think robustness is top priority for me, i've broke enough hubs to know that this is the only route that may stand up to a battering.
i'm going to use the pletty terminator too so at least i know that Matt has first hand knowledge of what it's capable of.
the whole point of my change isn't to massively improve performance (although i'd take an increase gladly) as i was totally happy with what my puma gave me in that respect.
All im after is at least the same performance but get the weight out of the rear wheel so that my bike regains its "bike e ness" meaning i can jump it and ride it hard as it was meant to be.
Cheers,
D
recumpence
1 GW
Etard has the right idea on my design.
Yes, the Predator is an airplane design with no output shaft. Much machining would be needed to run make it work on a bike (I have looked into it myself). Plus, there just aren't controllers that can put out enough power with decent accelleration software for a bike. Castle is working on it, though.
I am not taking preorders. The main reason for that is multifaceted.
#1 I do not want a bunch of orders only to find out the price was off $50 (either up or down).
#2 I am not well known here and do not want to be judged poorly if there is a delay or some other calamity.
#3 I just don't feel right taking preorders without the drives finished. I have one preorder right now for my original box, that I am moving away from anyway. Now I need to figure out the best option for that customer. See what I mean?
Anyway, I am very glad you guys have so much interest.
I went through this with my heli products. GGoodrum remembers this on RCGroups. I had soooooo much interest in what I was making that, after a year or so, I had a 9 week backlog of orders and finally shut down my web site to catch up. That was terrible. I had to shut down my primary business for a week (twice) to work full time filling orders. That is good in one sence (income). But, bad in the stress depertment.
I will have roughly 10 to 12 drives available in the first run. Then I will guage the interest for run #2, along with any requested changes, and make a second run to accomodate the perceived order volume.
This drive could be made more adjustable, or more compact, or more economical, or higher power handling, or more efficient, but not all of the above. I want to get the first run of drives out there to guage response to their design and performance, then make a second run with (potentially) higher production numbers and any changes that seem needed or useful.
Matt
Yes, the Predator is an airplane design with no output shaft. Much machining would be needed to run make it work on a bike (I have looked into it myself). Plus, there just aren't controllers that can put out enough power with decent accelleration software for a bike. Castle is working on it, though.
I am not taking preorders. The main reason for that is multifaceted.
#1 I do not want a bunch of orders only to find out the price was off $50 (either up or down).
#2 I am not well known here and do not want to be judged poorly if there is a delay or some other calamity.
#3 I just don't feel right taking preorders without the drives finished. I have one preorder right now for my original box, that I am moving away from anyway. Now I need to figure out the best option for that customer. See what I mean?
Anyway, I am very glad you guys have so much interest.
I went through this with my heli products. GGoodrum remembers this on RCGroups. I had soooooo much interest in what I was making that, after a year or so, I had a 9 week backlog of orders and finally shut down my web site to catch up. That was terrible. I had to shut down my primary business for a week (twice) to work full time filling orders. That is good in one sence (income). But, bad in the stress depertment.
I will have roughly 10 to 12 drives available in the first run. Then I will guage the interest for run #2, along with any requested changes, and make a second run to accomodate the perceived order volume.
This drive could be made more adjustable, or more compact, or more economical, or higher power handling, or more efficient, but not all of the above. I want to get the first run of drives out there to guage response to their design and performance, then make a second run with (potentially) higher production numbers and any changes that seem needed or useful.
Matt
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