High power RC motor and drive unit production

I have no fear of LiCo chemistry. The overcharging is where 99.9% of accidents happen, and overcharging a damaged cell is the normal culprit when the charger is correctly set. The majority of fires are caused by either charger error (ala 109) or user error (incorrect charger setting).

A nice lipo pack needs no bms, as the cells will be matched and dump at the same time. Set a LVC on the controller and watch the cell balance when charging and there are no issues.


Im pricing different volumes Matt, I will send a PM when I get a final quote. From the discharge graphs made by 3rd parties, these cells are very nice. They hold a flatter discharge than any other cell I have seen, then they dump really fast.
 
John,

Cool, looking forward to it!

Gary,

I totally agree lipos can be hazardous. However, again, millions of consumer electronics use them safely. The issue is their handling and charging. I am not promoting them for use with innexperienced users, though. But, for us who have alot of RC experience with them, they are the best performance battery out there.

Early lipos are problematic too. Late technology cells with current tapering chargers and correct cell count are safe. Kind of like a firearm, if you handlit it properly and use correct amo, they are safe. If mishandled.............

Well you know what I mean.

Matt
 
johnrobholmes said:
I have no fear of LiCo chemistry. The overcharging is where 99.9% of accidents happen, and overcharging a damaged cell is the normal culprit when the charger is correctly set. The majority of fires are caused by either charger error (ala 109) or user error (incorrect charger setting).

Tell that to Fred Bronk, and many others who have had LiPo fires from correctly set, but mafunctioning chargers. This can happen and it HAS happened. I do think the newer chargers that have integrated balancers and cell-level monitoring during the charge process has made things a lot safer, but not 100%. I still would never charge a LiPo pack indoors, or while mounted on a bike.

johnrobholmes said:
A nice lipo pack needs no bms, as the cells will be matched and dump at the same time. Set a LVC on the controller and watch the cell balance when charging and there are no issues.

Yes, for a new and healthy pack, that may be true. For a cheap pack, with 50-100 cycles, this is not necessaarily the case. Cells will weaken at different rates. You overdischarge a weak cell and it can explode. I have seen this happen. Now, imagine that happening to a pack between your legs. :shock: A cell level LVC capability can prevent this, that's all I'm saying.

-- Gary
 
I do not agree that a cell will directly catch fire from over discharging. Over current, yes. Over discharge, no. They do not explode anyway, they catch fire. The danger during use is from cell damage (physical /electrical) in a way that shorts the cathode and anode together (overcurrent/ puncture). Over discharging allows a change of lithium state, which can make subsequent use and charging risky.

A bit nit picky I realize, but a damaged battery is always a risk no matter what chemistry. The key is to know what causes issues. A properly balanced/matched pack that is properly maintained will not be an issue. Whether you rely on BMS or human cell maintenance is another issue entirely. Some people prefer BMS, some prefer a lighter pack and a bit more work between charges.
 
You're right, I meant over current, which is what hapens if you have a weak cell and you are still trying to pull high current out of them.

Explode may not be completely accurate but they do erupt in a fairly spectacular fireball.

Look, I'm not trying to turn Matt's thread into a semantics contest on LiPo safety issues. I think we've accomplished what I wanted was to just make sur people are aware of the risks, and to just be careful.
 
Right, and I agree. I think the topic mates well with lipo discussion , as many people wanting these drive units as a high performance system will also want high performance batteries.


LiCo certainly is not without risks.
 
I've got 24 A123 cells patiently waiting. In what way are these licos better? 2P is over 4ah and is capable of 140A continuous, not to mention they will last for years and are safe enough to put in Joe the Plumber's cordless tools.

John
 
John in CR said:
I've got 24 A123 cells patiently waiting. In what way are these licos better? 2P is over 4ah and is capable of 140A continuous, not to mention they will last for years and are safe enough to put in Joe the Plumber's cordless tools.

John

Not arguing against that. I think that the price is about the same between A123 and lipo's arent they?
 
For comercially available cells, nething even comes slose to Lithium Polymer cells. My 48 volt, 10AH Lipo pack weighs 5 pounds.

I would say, for the "Average Joe" A123s are about perfect. They are much safer and still quite good density.

Matt
 
safe said:
recumpence said:
The future bikes I'm building will be closer to 1000 watts peak (in order to be federally legal)
<SNIP>

Huh? A US Federal Law? There is none; just worry about your local state/city/county regs: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_bicycle_laws
 
"Electric Bicycles are defined by the California Vehicle Code [28][29][30]. In summary, electric bicycles are to be operated like conventional bicycles in California. There are several exceptions to this. A person must be at least 16 years old, and anyone riding an electric bicycle must wear a bicycle helmet. The e-bikes must have an electric motor that has a power output less than 1,000 watts, is incapable of propelling the device at a speed of more than 20 miles per hour on level ground, is incapable of further increasing the speed of the device when human power is used to propel the motorized bicycle faster than 20 miles per hour, operates in a manner so that the electric motor is disengaged or ceases to function when the brakes are applied, or operates in a manner such that the motor is engaged through a switch or mechanism that, when released, will cause the electric motor to disengage or cease to function.
Driver's licenses, registration, insurance and license plate requirements do not apply. A motorized bicycle is not a motor vehicle. A motorized bicycle shall only be operated by a person 16 years of age or older. Drinking and driving laws apply. Additional laws or ordinances may apply to the use of electric bicycles by each city or county [31]" - Wikipedia

Guess that my 7000 watt RC motor is illegal. :D And 20mph? Really? Most bikes without electric motors can go 35mph. Whats up with that!!
 
recumpence said:
For comercially available cells, nething even comes slose to Lithium Polymer cells. My 48 volt, 10AH Lipo pack weighs 5 pounds.

I would say, for the "Average Joe" A123s are about perfect. They are much safer and still quite good density.

Matt

Hey Matt

Where did you get that battery? I want one!! :mrgreen: I WANT EVERYTHING!! :D :twisted: :mrgreen:
 
dimitrib90 said:
Guess that my 7000 watt RC motor is illegal. :D And 20mph? Really? Most bikes without electric motors can go 35mph. Whats up with that!!

I've peaked at ~50MPH on a long-distance ride once...coming off a mountain...that was WAY too fast for a tired guy wearing nothing but spandex.

I think lawmaker's primary issues are with higher regular speeds, and simply not having the safety equipment that everything else rolling down the road at that speed would have; well-sized brakes, tires, good/strong headlights, brake lights, regulated mirrors, proper helmet, etc... At those speeds, it's far more than you who's affected by a crash.

As for your 7KW (~9.3HP) motor...that's crazy; my childhood go-kart sported an ~8HP honda racing engine...that was WAY too much speed and power (well, that's what mother said at least). Now, take that & put it on an eBike...geeze, I hope you're dressed up like a motorcyclist!
 
recumpence said:
For comercially available cells, nething even comes slose to Lithium Polymer cells. My 48 volt, 10AH Lipo pack weighs 5 pounds.
I would say, for the "Average Joe" A123s are about perfect. They are much safer and still quite good density.
Matt

How much less volume do the Lipoly's take up? I see that as a far more important factor than weight, since space is at a significant premium on an ebike. As far as price is concerned, a comparison without considering useful life is not very meaningful in my book.

John
 
Hi,

recumpence said:
CNC's motors are 8 pole. As such, they are not restricted to voltage nearly as much as the Plettenberg (at the cost of some very low RPM tractability and smoothness).

David, I think quite a few of us will not use over 50v (especially considering the price of the SHV esc's). Would you consider producing a model designed for a maximum of about 50v with the correct number of poles for better low RPM tractability and smoothness?

recumpence said:
The drive unit mounts are in the CNC right now being cut and tapped. I should have them in hand to show pics of by Monday (maybe tomorrow).
Matt

Matt, are you producing mounts for use when the drive is folded, that will mount both links on the same surface?
 
Hi,

recumpence said:
Also, cell phones, laptops, PDAs, etc, etc, etc, use lipos successfully.

Matt

When comparing Ebike packs with cell phones etc. you should probably take into account that there is no such thing as a .5kwh cell phone pack.
 
MitchJi said:
Hi,

recumpence said:
Also, cell phones, laptops, PDAs, etc, etc, etc, use lipos successfully.

Matt

When comparing Ebike packs with cell phones etc. you should probably take into account that there is no such thing as a .5kwh cell phone pack.

Why do they use lipo instead of Lifepo4? Wouldnt LiFePo4 last longer?
 
MitchJi said:
Hi,

recumpence said:
Also, cell phones, laptops, PDAs, etc, etc, etc, use lipos successfully.

Matt

When comparing Ebike packs with cell phones etc. you should probably take into account that there is no such thing as a .5kwh cell phone pack.

That actually makes no difference. Chemistry is chemistry no matter cell size. :D

Matt
 
John in CR said:
I've got 24 A123 cells patiently waiting. In what way are these licos better? 2P is over 4ah and is capable of 140A continuous, not to mention they will last for years and are safe enough to put in Joe the Plumber's cordless tools.

John

These are every bit as good, in my opinion, and a ton safer. On a bike, a few ounces more in weight is nothing. I even switched over to use a123s in all my RC helis. I got tired of having to worry about charging, punctured packs from crashes, etc. Many others have done the same.

RC packs are smaller and lighter, especially for fairly small capacities, like under 10Ah. If you want a setup that is going to give you some commuting range, for instance, now you've got to have a messy and comlicated wiring harness that will connect multiple 5Ah packs in parallel and in series. How then to charge them? RC chargers, with built-in balancers do a great job of balance charging the packs, but you can't have one charger that will do your whole setup.

Most RC setups are based around using packs that are multiples of up to 6s. It is not as easy to map LiPo's nominal 3.7V into existing 24V, 36V and/or 48V SLA setups, which would increase the charging options significantly. Actually, a 10s LiPo pack, with a nominal voltage of 37V and a CC/CV cutoff of 42V comes closer to a 36V SLA configuration, but even there most 36V SLA chargers have cutoffs of 44-45V, which is too much for a 10s LiPo pack. If you were trying to match LiPos to use in a typical 48V setup, which has a CC/CV cutoff of around 58-59V, you really need to use a 14s LiPo configuration. Using two 6s LiPo packs is only around 44V nominal, whereas with a 14s setup the nominal voltage is about 51V.

So, let's say you are going for a setup that requires at least 10Ah of capacity, and you want to charge the whole setup with a single charger, in a reasonable amount of time. Using typical RC packs you'd need to use three packs in series, to get to 14s, and then since the max capacity typically available in RC packs is 5Ah, you'd need to have two in parallel to get 10Ah. That's six packs, and a mess of wires.

The nice thing about LiFePO4 cells, including a123s, is that they map well into existing SLA setups. For charging purposes, 4 LiFePO4s equals 6 SLA cells. Makes it easy to configure packs that can make use of the many existing SLA chargers out there. You get the added benefit of higher nominal voltages. A typical SLA cell has a CC/CV charge cutoff of around 2.40-2.45V, but this very quickly drops to about 2.0V per cell. An 18 cell SLA will get charged to about 44V, but its nominal voltage will be 36V. A 12s LiFePO4 packs will also get charged to 44-45V, but its nominal voltage is 3.3V x 12, or about 40V. You get an "extra" 4V. This is one of the reasons why som many are so pleasantly surprised when they switch from SLAs to a LiFePO4-based pack. Many assume that it is simply because LiFePO4s have less voltage sag, under load, which is part of it, but they are starting out with more voltage from the get go. One of the common mistakes I've seen manufacturers make when trying to match other Lithium-based packs to existing SLA setups is that they try to match nominal voltages, instead of charging voltages. The motors and controllers have to have the voltage "room" to take an SLA right off the charger, so why not take advantag of that?

The bottomline is that if you are after competition-level performance, and don't care so much about range, RC LiPo packs will certainly give you the most "bang" for the buck. If you aren't interested in all-out perfromance, but need more range, while still wanting lightweight, get a 16 or 20Ah Ping pack. If you still want closeto the same all-out performance, but want a pain-free charging solution, nothing beats a123s.

-- Gary
 
recumpence said:
My 48 volt, 10AH Lipo pack weighs 5 pounds...

Sorry, this is really closer to a 44V 10Ah pack. This is quite a bit less than what a 48V SLA setup puts out. A 48V SLA pack gets charged to 58V, and then drops down to a nominal voltage of 48V. Your 12s setup gets charged to only 50.4V and then drops to 44V. By comparison, my 16s a123 packs get charged to the same 58V that a 48V SLA setup would, bui only drops down to a nominal 52.8V, which is quite a bit more than 44V.

Lets compare apples-to-apples. :)
 
I hate to disagree with you Gary. I have never seen my 12S lipo pack below 46 volts before I recharge. The majority of my riding sees 48 volts while riding. The only exception to that is if I am accellerating hard. It drops 2 volts under hard accelleration, tehn settles right back up to 48 volts or higher untill pretty late in the ride.

I am not trying to start an arguement. I totally agree with you about the safety factor of A123 versus lipo. I cannot agree more. However, when it comes to voltage sag, all otu performance, light weight, and long range, lipo is the way to go.

It is kind of like running exotic fuels in engines, though. There is a safety factor to consider there.

Also, for ballancing, the best way to do series/parrallel is to parallel cells in groups first, then series those groups of paralleled packs. That way the individual cells in the "P" configuration ballance each other. That requires only a typical double 6S ballancing situation for a multiple "P" pack.

I will say it this way, whenever anyone asks me about lipo versus other chemistries for their bike, I always point them away from lipo. My build log gives stearn warnings about this. You cannot be too cautious with Lipo.

That being said, they are still the highest performance cell chemistry that is readily available. Of course, that will change soon. There are many new chemistries on the horizon that look alot better and safer than anything else out there. :)

Matt
 
Well, I rarely see my 16s4p a123 packs ever dip below 53V, except at the end, when they dump quick. They start out at about 55V, fresh off the charger, and after burning off the surface charge for a few seconds. Anyway, enough said. I think we've beat this horse dead, several times. :mrgreen:

Getting back on topic, do you have some new pics yet of the mounts?
 
Top side machining is done (actually one side profile) with all boring and side tapping. I am assuming back side machining will be done tomorrw! Theoretically, I could ship drives this coming week assuming the FW adaptors can be shipped later.

The only things waiting beyond the mounts are FW adaptors, fancey machining of the plain pulleys I have in stock, and finailization of a couple minor details. But, again, in theory, I could ship the first few this coming week if all planets remain in alighnment. :wink:

I am trying to get them done ASAP at this point. My family and I may have to go out of town in a few days. My wife's 42 year old brother is dying. We are already planning to go up on the 22nd. But, if he goes down hill very quickly, we may go sooner. If that happens, I will need to close my regular business far longer than anticipated for Christmas. That could either delay the drives, or speed them up depending on what happens. If we have to go and my wife takes the kids while leaving me here, I may have a lot of time to do machining. Plus, I think I will need some additional money to be out of town for Christmas and a funeral at the same time. But, if I go with her (early), I will not have time to finish the drives before that time, yet will really need some extra cash due to taking so much time off work between Christmas, a funeral, and New Years day next week.

We shall see. Keep us in your prayers.......... :cry:

Matt
 
recumpence said:
I am trying to get them done ASAP at this point. My family and I may have to go out of town in a few days. My wife's 42 year old brother is dying. We are already planning to go up on the 22nd. But, if he goes down hill very quickly, we may go sooner. If that happens, I will need to close my regular business far longer than anticipated for Christmas. That could either delay the drives, or speed them up depending on what happens. If we have to go and my wife takes the kids while leaving me here, I may have a lot of time to do machining. Plus, I think I will need some additional money to be out of town for Christmas and a funeral at the same time. But, if I go with her (early), I will not have time to finish the drives before that time, yet will really need some extra cash due to taking so much time off work between Christmas, a funeral, and New Years day next week.

We shall see. Keep us in your prayers.......... :cry:

Matt

Hi Matt,

Please don't worry about the drive delivery schedule.

Supporting your Wife and Brother-in-law at this difficult time are much more important.

If it would help you out financially I'm sure many of us would not mind paying in advance for the drives.

Best Wishes to You, your Wife and Brother-in-law,

Mitch
 
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