High power RC motor and drive unit production

[deecanio]

excellent news for those that want nothing fancy
heheheh, jk, i can hang on some for mine Matt so one less to worry about, let "mine" go if you need to? that said whats your estimate of batch 2??
i kinda fancy some anodising and fancy shmancy pulleys woohooo!!!in fact fancy shmancy anodised pulleys is what im after black evrything but blue pulleys nice 8)
you rock sir!!!

Cheers,

D

 

[Miles]

So, stealth with bling, eh?

 

[deecanio]

Meh, stealth shmealth
i'll still stealth it with black covers but my bling will be there for show days

D

 

[GGoodrum]

The Hacker has a 32mm hole pattern, so for just using two of the four 4mm holes, I'd need a slot that was 32mm apart. What I'd like to do, if possible, is use all four bolts, two on top and two on the bottom. In that case, I need slots that are spaced 22.74mm apart, which is exactly 7/8". They would need to be wide enough for 4mm bolts.

For this first unit for me, plain is just fine. I would like to use a 72T pulley, to get the full 6:1 ratio, if you have them. I also don't need the custom FW adapter just yet, as I have some of the 15mm trike adapters coming. I can use these with bore reducers, for now.

Assuming the mount is centered on the frame, the sprocket/cog that drives the crank needs to be about 2-1/4" from the centerline of the frame, in order to be lined up with where the crank sprocket will be, so the output shaft needs to be long enough to accomodate this.

I have no idea, at this stage,how I'm going to mount this, but it almost has to be some sort of clamp setup, as the whole assembly needs to slide a bit to provide tension for the output shaft-to-crank chain, right? I need to do some more noodling on this. You guys are much more adept than I am when it comes to things mechanical.

One other thing I need to sort out is where to mount the controller. In my "box" setup, I simply mounted the Power Jazz on top, and stuffed the guts of the servo tester and a 5V UBEC (for powering the controller and the servo tester...) inside the box. I'll have to figure out a clean way of doing this that looks good.

Anyway, I'm ready when you are, Matt.

-- Gary

 

[erth64net]

I just need to pick up bearings and shaft material (very easy to obtain). I have pulleys in stock. However, the pulleys are stock blank aluminum pulleys. My pretty spoke patern pulleys will take a couple weeks to get made. Other than that, the FW adaptors are needed.

So, I guess, for those who do not want fancey pulleys and can wait to get the FW adaptor, I can start shipping very soon.

Oh, the motor mount plates do not have slots milled for the motor mount screws yet. I need the screw spacing for each motor to machine those in one at a time.

Matt

Guess my needs are simple enough; no freewheel needed (it's on the wheel already), and my motor's dimensions (Scorpion 4025-16):

 

[deecanio]

Hi erthnet64,

you may need to give matt the distance between the bolts unless you are planning to just use two bolts? i'd say use all 4 if you can so you need to measure the distance between two bolt holes that are next to each other, not the 25mm across two that are opposite if that makes sense?

Cheers,
D

 

[GGoodrum]

Hi erthnet64,

you may need to give matt the distance between the bolts unless you are planning to just use two bolts? i'd say use all 4 if you can so you need to measure the distance between two bolt holes that are next to each other, not the 25mm across two that are opposite if that makes sense?

Cheers,
D

My trig is a bit rusty, but I think it is 17.68mm = SQRT(25^2/2), or about .70".

Doing the math, mine should be 22.63mm or 0.89" apart, with as 32mm bolt circle.

 

[deecanio]

trigonometry? i can barely spell it
not bad for a rusty guess Gary hehehe.

D

 

[etard]

Matt,
How is the tension between the motor and first pulley going to be adjusted? I would rather not add an idler. Also, I would like to anodize some parts, would it be hard to find someone to do this locally?

 

[GGoodrum]

The slots we are talking about adding for mounting the motor will allow you to adjust the tension on the first stage by sliding the motor down as needed.

 

[CNCAddict]

He's not called "etard" for nothin :wink:

 

[GGoodrum]

He's not called "etard" for nothin :wink:

Ouch!

 

[CNCAddict]

haha, I couldn't help myself

OH...I thought I'd stick a few cents in here. Aluminum wears very fast on the small pulleys. Plastic or steel lasts a lot longer. My pulley is only a few hundred miles old and it looks like a rat's been gnawing on the thing. I'll get some pictures of what I'm talking about.

 

[Miles]

Aluminum wears very fast on the small pulleys.

Yes, they really need to be hard-anodised, to last....

Or, Keronite treatment: http://www.keronite.com/

 

[recumpence]

I have aluminum pullies without wear. Much depends on the belt tension and load.

CNC, check my PM and let me know your thoughts. :wink:

Matt

 

[CNCAddict]

I have aluminum pullies without wear. Much depends on the belt tension and load.

And having road grime thrown all over my pulley surely doesn't help

 

[etard]

Actually my name is Dave, just like you CNC. LOL! If you are going to make slots, it seems like it would be easier to just take those to your local machinist, instead of bothering Matt with such a minute detail. I would rather have threaded holes to mount to, but I suppose slots will do.

 

[deecanio]

etard,

if you have threaded holes how are you going to adjust the belt tension from the motor to the pulley?
**edit** personally i like that Matt is prepared to do the slots, i'd rather have it done to Matts standard than give it to someone local to me to scratch it up whilst putting it in the vice and dremeling it


D

 

[Miles]

We seem to be in a loop....

 

[PaulM]

Gorgeous parts! I like how all the sharp edges have been chamfered; it's a small thing, but it shows a nice level of detail. Is the chamfering much extra work to program?

 

[recumpence]

It is a simple keystroke and one more cutter to indicate. Chamfering takes an extra 30 secons or less per part. :wink:

Matt

 

[HAL9000v2.0]

... Chamfering takes an extra 30 secons or less per part. :wink:

Matt

You talking about one side,right?...otherwise I am impressed !!!

Great construction, Matt.

 

[recumpence]

Yup, per side. However, each side is programmed into the HAAS (with tool change head). So, chamferring is done automatically.

The HAAS is not my machine, nor do I run it. I have a few small TAIG bench top machines I do prototyping with. Dave Monsen from Monsen Machining does my production. My shop is located in his building (we are good friends). I am a "Genetically gifted" mechanical engineer/designer/visionary. That comes very natural for me. Dave is an extremely highly skilled mold maker (one of the best in the country). My stuff is super easy for him to make and easy for me to design. We make a good team.

Matt

 

[deecanio]

yup, id say that you do!! :lol:
with anodising, is there a method that would strengthen too??? i ask in relation to davids post about wear on the pulleys?


cheers,

D

 

[fechter]

Aluminum wears very fast on the small pulleys.

Yes, they really need to be hard-anodised, to last....

Or, Keronite treatment: http://www.keronite.com/

It depends a lot on the load and the number of teeth. I found that with a 5M15 belt, small aluminum sprockets would wear away quite rapidly at high power levels (>1kw). If they have more than about 20 teeth, the wear becomes much less. I was running a 13t steel sprocket on my Zappy. That held up quite well. I suppose the grade of aluminum would make some difference.

That Keronite stuff sounds interesting...
How about titanium