bobbill
100 W
Makes sense to me +1. Every ride has demands...adjust to demands...
Tell that to Tesla?DogDipstick said:
Someone told me to buy one of those when they came up last week. They sold fast.
About time you started messing with *real* batteries and not that cylindrical cell junk.
DrkAngel said:.
Tell that to Tesla?
Tell that to Tesla?DogDipstick said:Someone told me to buy one of those when they came up last week. They sold fast.DrkAngel said:.
... Impulse buy
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Could not pass it up.
Perfect for my 48V 1500w.
Good thing I jumped on it, got the last one!
3C continuous discharge,
70% charge in <30 minutes
May be more available as they test each item in batches.
I know, "Homemade" doesn't ethically apply, but technically, I need to add a BMS and put in a tool box\shell.
Nice job docw009 !
About time you started messing with *real* batteries and not that cylindrical cell junk.
based on Wh, range will be 383%48V 10Ah Lithium battery = 480Wh
10mph = 46 miles range - 10.4Wh/mile
15mph = 30 miles range - 16Wh/mile
20mph = 20 miles range - 24Wh/mile
25mph = 13 miles rang - 37Wh/mile
30mph = 8 miles range - 60Wh/mile
.DrkAngel said:51.8V 35Ah Lithium battery = 1840Wh
10mph = 184 miles range - 10.4Wh/mile
15mph = 120 miles range - 16Wh/mile
20mph = 80 miles range - 24Wh/mile
25mph = 52 miles rang - 37Wh/mile
30mph = 32 miles range - 60Wh/mile
DogDipstick said:About time you started messing with *real* batteries and not that cylindrical cell junk.
Beginning to look like Tesla is putting the wrong eggs in its basket (even with its 4680 eggs)? E-bike battery packs and POWER Tool battery packs are now available using Li pouch cells ...DrkAngel said:Tell that to Tesla?
THE BOTTOM LINE
The additional power potential coming from smaller batteries is really exciting. When you add in faster charging and a much longer service life, the transition to lithium pouch cell batteries makes a lot of sense and opens the door to all-new levels of performance.
I know this is a couple years after this post but....I am aware of this site which will help. e4bike battery shape configurator. https://e4bike.ru/page/battery-shape-configurator?lang=enDrkAngel said:dirt huffer said:Thanks for the awesome Wiki!
QuNick question... what program do you guys use to determine size/shape/cell count/orientation of 18650 cell pack? I have a full suspension frame and need to get creative to pack as many cells in it as i can
.
No known "programs"
All the links appear broken, unless I'm broken LOLGot my 20 - 6 packs of Lipo. 1 mated pair of cells was bad.
Still that is $40 for nearly, a 1KWH battery pack!(.96KWH)
Took 1 - 11.1v - 4.32ah brick, charged it to the nominal 12.6v, hooked it, with an amp meter, to a 12v 250w leaf blower, it surged to 20 amps, then settled to 11 amps, as leaf blower attained speed.
About 15 seconds later, one of the built-in fuses, blew.
Fuse is easy to bypass, but my 25.9v pack will have 6 banks of these bricks, or about 120amp surge & 60+amps continuous capability!
Present bike's, noticed, surge usage was barely 30 amps, continuous is about 15.
And! ...
I scraped the scummy SLAs out of an EZip pack, and was able to stack in almost 26ah of Lipo! (25.92ah)
Or ... could fit 17.28ah @ 37v.
A little better than the 24v 6ah usable, provided by the OEM SLAs!
Weather is lousy, so I'm charging - testing -discharging - more testing, to confirm, best cells, before assembly.
Will keep everyone posted!
Thanks. ill have a go later, sorry to be a pain, but I didn't think I was doing it wrong, and someone else just confirmed it was FUBAR a technical term I think for not at optimum working efficiency LOL,The conversion early this year from the old PHPBB forum software to the new Xenforo software didn't correctly migrate the links in many (most) posts. Hand editing them all is probably never going to happen, so unless a tool can be written to do it automagically, the best I can recommend is that for content like this is to use the archived version of the original forum here:
to find the same thread. If you copy any of the links that is "broken" and paste it into Notepad or other text editor, you can add "-old" to the "forums" part of the link, like below:
-old/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26383&p=1180493&#p1180493![]()
Homemade Battery Packs
Index - January 2022 Updating Tools and Parts LiPo vs SLA 18650 info 18650 cell specs by manufacturer 18650 chemistry by model designation Recent 12.8V 1.280kWh portable power w/inverter FIRE - not Lithium! Resurrecting "dead" ( extreme low voltage Lithium cells ? ) Max Life and...endless-sphere.com
then copy that new link into your browser and go there to get to the archived thread. From there you can go back to the beginning of the thread and the page of links, etc.
I really really recommend putting them back in the bucket and getting rid of them.On 18650 cells, got ten 29E cells from of a bucket of water (Now thanks to you I know why they were in there LOL).... All at 0v, open circuit, and one had a hole in. Couldn't resists, all are now apparently working perfectly, even the one with the hole in.
IRONICALLYI really really recommend putting them back in the bucket and getting rid of them.
Cells that (for whatever reason) have been discharged below their low-safe-limit can be damaged inside in ways that can lead to a fire. Since you cannot know if they are damaged, or how, without destroying them in disassembly and examination (probably with some form of microscopy to find the faults), they should be considered unsafe to use for any application at all.
The damage to them could create an internal catastrophic failure at any time, under any conditions, in any usage.
Physical damage of any kind to any cell (of any format) also qualifies for this, as you can't know what damage is like inside, and whether there is a chance of shorting layers of it together, etc., and any of the damage could cause a fire, at any time.
They might work perfectly for years with no issue.
They might catch fire tonight while you're asleep, start spewing flaming cell cores like hopping fireworks, and set fire to the neighborhood....
You just can't know....
It's bad enough that there are plenty of new unknown-quality cells out there that you can't know if they have internal factory defects because the manufacturers aren't doing QC, or the QC rejects (of even good manufacturers) are sent to be recycled for materials but instead are resold by quick-buckers....
I really really recommend putting them back in the bucket and getting rid of them.
Cells that (for whatever reason) have been discharged below their low-safe-limit can be damaged inside in ways that can lead to a fire. Since you cannot know if they are damaged, or how, without destroying them in disassembly and examination (probably with some form of microscopy to find the faults), they should be considered unsafe to use for any application at all.
The damage to them could create an internal catastrophic failure at any time, under any conditions, in any usage.
Physical damage of any kind to any cell (of any format) also qualifies for this, as you can't know what damage is like inside, and whether there is a chance of shorting layers of it together, etc., and any of the damage could cause a fire, at any time.
They might work perfectly for years with no issue.
They might catch fire tonight while you're asleep, start spewing flaming cell cores like hopping fireworks, and set fire to the neighborhood....
You just can't know....
It's bad enough that there are plenty of new unknown-quality cells out there that you can't know if they have internal factory defects because the manufacturers aren't doing QC, or the QC rejects (of even good manufacturers) are sent to be recycled for materials but instead are resold by quick-buckers....