How long does a geared vs direct drive last?

Sacman said:
wesnewell said:
You're mistaken. I do it every day. Once you get the rpm past the no load speed of the motor, current reverses and charges the battery. I can watch the pack voltage go up. Of course you need a meter that measures in tenths to see it.

Are you sure about that? It sounds like the small increase in pack voltage (that you percieve as "charging the battery") is actually a reduction in pack voltage sag because once you start pedaling you're putting a lighter load on the battery. Don't you notice your watts decrease too when you start pedalling? It's got nothing to do with reducing/elliminating cogging. BTW the CA does measure down to 10ths of a volt.
I'm absolutely sure. When I leave the house with 74.1V before I get on the bike, then set cruise at 7mph and it sags a little til I match speed. Then I keep pedaling to 15mph downhill and voltage goes to 74.2, then a little more and it goes to 74.3, etc. I ordered a pair of those sunglasses camera that I expect in about a week so I could record going up some of the hills around here. I'll just make a video of this too. FWIW, my cruise control is not speed, but by throttle setting. Meaning it's not really cruise control, but throttle control. IOW's going up a hill won't maintain the same speed set on flat ground. It's set with a button, not by holding the throttle in one position for a number of seconds.
 
It would work in theory, after all once the clutch is engaged, it should feed power either way, just like a direct drive. It means you're pedaling harder than you would if you were riding an equivalent bike at the equivalent speed that wasn't electric... I go electric to make pedaling easier, not harder!
 
Well, mine is a dd motor.:) But the main point was that using a dd motor can be just as easy to pedal as a geared motor without using the battery. When you hit the equilibrium speed, there's no cogging and thre's no wattage drain on the battery. Go 1or 2 mph over will charge the battery ever so slightly with no noticeable cogging.
 
I believe it is possible to pedal some power back into a dd motor as Wes claims. But I know for a fact it's too much work for me at my age. On a downhill, it would of course be easier, less pedaling required when gravity is helping.

But you can pretty easily take 100w off your CA's wattage reading, by pedaling the bike a tad faster than your throttle setting would have it go. No way I can pedal up more than 100w for long, in fact, in cruise mode I'm much more likely to only add 50w for a 10 mile ride or longer. So on flat gound, I wouldn't be putting regen in even if I have it enabled. I end up saving battery all the same, but not by putting it back in. I just do 500w cruising at 450w or whatever.

For example, on the flats, no downhill whatsoever, say you are cruising at 400w electric, and traveling about 20 mph. In order to put regen into the battery in that situation, you'd have to pedal up the 20 mph first. It wouldn't take all 400w, because you wouldn't have motor heating losses. But you'd have to pedal a lot to maintain 20 mph, then add more to it to get to regeneration levels. It could be as much as 300w sustained, so you'd better be a pretty fit cyclist to pedal up regen at 20 mph. It would be easier at 10mph of course.

But if you do the math, you'll quickly see that pedaling up regen is hard work for little gain in watthours. Worth it to keep a party's boom box going perhaps, but not really better than 15 min plugged into a charger.


Back on the subject of motor cogging. If you just want to pedal the bike relatively slowly to stretch the battery, about the lowest throttle setting I can hold on the bike is around 50w. It will eliminate motor drag completely up to about 12 mph travel. At 50w, if you have 100wh left in your battery you could ride for two hours like that, adding 20 miles to your range for about 100 watthours. 5 watthours per mile vs about 25 wh/mi at 20 mph motoring. On a freewheeling motor bike, it would of course be better, taking 0 watthours.

My preference for significant range extension whether riding dd or gearmotors, has been to just slow down to about 15-18 mph minimum, and put in my 50-100w of pedal effort. Not the same as pedal only, but faster travel than just pedaling at 50w of motor and still a very sustainable effort for up to 60 miles for me. So you set your throttle for about 15-17 mph, and try to pedal up 1-2 mph more. Efficient enough to get pretty good distance out of a typical 700wh battery.
 
I have had a controller quit on me on both the 9c and the ebikekit.com geared motor, and can attest that it is much easier to peddle a geared motor without any power to the hub than a dd. Peddling the dd is like riding in soft dirt compared to geared which is like riding on pavement.

My ebikekit.com geared motor quit on me completely and I have discovered that unfortunately it is cheaper to buy a whole new hub than it is to send it in to have the gears swapped out. Swapping gears on that particular hub was not something you can do without special tools :x .

Also you may be interested in knowing I gave up on my 9c hub. I have been wanting to trail ride some of the steep trails here in the mountains. The tiny 16ish gauge phase wires get really hot when try to do this. It needs 10ga wires in it and when I tried the phase wire mod, I came to the conclusion that it's darn near impossible to get 10ga wires down the tiny shaft. I couldn't even get 12ga wires to work.
Great commuter hub however.

Hope this helps,
Jared

oh also, my 9c has a 6speed cassette on the hub with a tiny bit room for maybe 1 gear more
 
FWIW cutting the 16 gauge wire close to the axle and soldering in 10 gauge wire the rest of the way to the controller DOES help your problem with wire heating since the thicker wires will act like a heat sink. I've done that to most of my BMC geared motors. I've melted phase wires before doing that mod but haven't had any problems after.

parajared said:
I have been wanting to trail ride some of the steep trails here in the mountains. The tiny 16ish gauge phase wires get really hot when try to do this. It needs 10ga wires in it and when I tried the phase wire mod, I came to the conclusion that it's darn near impossible to get 10ga wires down the tiny shaft. I couldn't even get 12ga wires to work.
 
Other than bearings a DD motor should pretty much last a lifetime in a dry climate. With less moving parts it should outlast a geared motor. If you don't mind doing maintenance, geared motors can last just as long. Replacing gears or freewheels on the Mac/BMC is not difficult. The expense will be higher, but the performance is better if your speeds are 23mph or less. I ride mostly trails, single track stuff specifically. My setup is a 12S lipo with a current limit set at 35A. 1600w would be pulled when going up hills. There isn't big enough hills for me to do any sustained hill climbs so I have no input on heat soaked motors. I can say I have no worries riding in 90+ weather. There is plenty of rolling terrain and short climbs, but no mountains unfortunately. My favorite motor for single track trail use is the BMC V2T, it has been super reliable, light and durable. I jump it regularly, but do let off on the thottle when landing. I ride it pretty much like I would ride a normal mountain bike. I'm always crashing so I know I'm not easy on the bike, but I do spend the time maintaining it.
 
kfong said:
Other than bearings a DD motor should pretty much last a lifetime in a dry climate. With less moving parts it should outlast a geared motor. If you don't mind doing maintenance, geared motors can last just as long. Replacing gears or freewheels on the Mac/BMC is not difficult. The expense will be higher, but the performance is better if your speeds are 23mph or less. I ride mostly trails, single track stuff specifically. My setup is a 12S lipo with a current limit set at 35A. 1600w would be pulled when going up hills. There isn't big enough hills for me to do any sustained hill climbs so I have no input on heat soaked motors. I can say I have no worries riding in 90+ weather. There is plenty of rolling terrain and short climbs, but no mountains unfortunately. My favorite motor for single track trail use is the BMC V2T, it has been super reliable, light and durable. I jump it regularly, but do let off on the thottle when landing. I ride it pretty much like I would ride a normal mountain bike. I'm always crashing so I know I'm not easy on the bike, but I do spend the time maintaining it.

So how often have you had to replace your planetary gears? Have you had the clutch fail yet? How many miles have you racked up off-road?

Are you running a hard-tail or full suspension?

Are the geared motors any better for a wet climate? I plan on riding mine in the winter in the snow...

Thanks!
 
It's been three seasons and the motor has been very reliable. I did have an issue with the clutch when I first started, but it was replaced with a newer version under warranty. I like this setup so much, that I picked up a backup motor so I won't have any down time. I doubt if I need to use it anytime soon but the backup motor gives me the freedom to run the current motor as hard as I like. The bike has over 1500 trail miles on it.

The bike is full suspension. There is a running thread on it in my links. As far as I know, all hub motors run into a problem with moisture being pulled into the motors when cooling off. This can lead to severe rust. Since I don't ride mine in winter, it's not a problem I need to deal with. Adding oil for cooling and rust prevention is one way to prevent this.
 
kfong said:
Adding oil for cooling and rust prevention is one way to prevent this.

Can this be done with DD motors as well, or just geared motors?

Why don't they come with the oil from the factory I wonder? Makes sense to me.

I would imagine there is some DIY threads on adding oil cooling to the geared motors? Anyone have a link?
 
I can't speak for the merits of geared motors.

However, DD motors have drag/cogging by virtue of the phyiscal orientation (Radial Flux design) that includes iron stator and back iron. The only way to “coast” with these motors is to apply very slight throttle.

The force of Regen can easily be increased by raising the potential between the battery and the motor through the controller. For low voltage systems on stock controllers, regen offers good braking ability. However as we get higher battery voltage the regen effect becomes negligible. Therefore we mod the controller for at least 100V operation, revalue the sensing threshold (R12 resistor for typical Infineon) and change the LVC correspondingly to artificially jack the controller brain into thinking it has a lot more headroom. Regen for the purpose of extending distance or for adding power back to the battery is at best a wishful fancy unless you start your long journey near the top of a huge hill or plateau. Otherwise, the best use of regen on ebikes is for braking and for extending the life of mechanical brake pads.

The DD motor has the potential to "last forever", however these factors will affect longevity…
  • Heat: Excess current or loading can stress the motor, and if damaged - it will not recover. Operate with modesty and it should outlast the bike.
  • Water: Keep the motor dry if you can; it’s not waterproof, and not too great at being water-repellant. It’s better to add a small vent hole at the periphery of the cover on both sides so any water that collects will spin out.
  • Bearings within the motor are not sealed; they have dust covers – but moisture and debris will ultimately cause problems, so look to eventually replace both bearings and seals because they are not made to last forever.
It just so happens I covered 9C issues recently in another post. When my hubs rusted out, I replaced the bearings with sealed stainless steel equivalents – and the difference is very apparent. :)

If you keep your DD motors dry, well-maintained, and don’t overwork them, well – they could last a very long time.

My 1/2 W, KF
 
Instead of the regen going to to the battery,which everyone seems to think is just a waste, I wonder if the regen is enough to charge a separate small battery for a bike light? And could it be possibly be wired for such?
 
wesnewell said:
I'm absolutely sure. When I leave the house with 74.1V before I get on the bike, then set cruise at 7mph and it sags a little til I match speed. Then I keep pedaling to 15mph downhill and voltage goes to 74.2, then a little more and it goes to 74.3, etc. I ordered a pair of those sunglasses camera that I expect in about a week so I could record going up some of the hills around here. I'll just make a video of this too. FWIW, my cruise control is not speed, but by throttle setting. Meaning it's not really cruise control, but throttle control. IOW's going up a hill won't maintain the same speed set on flat ground. It's set with a button, not by holding the throttle in one position for a number of seconds.
This is totally new to me. Does it only happen with a "re-gen" enabled controller?
 
pff7 said:
Instead of the regen going to to the battery,which everyone seems to think is just a waste, I wonder if the regen is enough to charge a separate small battery for a bike light? And could it be possibly be wired for such?

I think the fundamental argument here is that the amount of electrical energy which can be recovered by regenerative braking is trivial as compared to the added complexity of implementing it. I would make this argument even more strongly in an application in which recovered energy is being used to charge a separate battery to drive a light- it would be less costly (and weigh less, and consume less space) to drive the light directly from the main battery, with the understanding that the power consumed by a common LED bike light is extremely small as compared to the motor load. (eg, you might lose a tenth of a percent in range.)
 
pff7 said:
Instead of the regen going to to the battery,which everyone seems to think is just a waste, I wonder if the regen is enough to charge a separate small battery for a bike light? And could it be possibly be wired for such?
:idea: Run your light off the main pack. This way - even if the pack runs out of power, your motor will generate enough power from you pedaling forward to light the bulb; it might not be very bright though :|

I have a DC-DC converter that creates 12V and 5V for my external lighting; the 12V is used for LED turn signals and brake lights, and the 5V runs my High-powered LED headlamps and Blinkies.

With introspection, is it possible to better explain regen? Let's try:

Example 1: Ideal Condtions
Imagine I am in deep space between two galaxies where the effects of gravity are close to nil, and also not affected by solar wind or any other distractions. In this void of cold space there is billiard ball with a thruster attached, the object is at rest. Let’s add 50W of power to achieve a velocity of 50 kph (31 mph); Acceleration and velocity begins at zero, and when we reach our terminal velocity we shut off the power: Acceleration goes to zero, though velocity is held constant. Because there are no resistances in the deep void, the velocity going forward remains constant and consumes no energy to maintain. Now let's come to a stop: We rotate the object 180* and then fire the thrusters using 50W of power: Acceleration goes negative, and velocity reduces up to zero – and we shut off the power.

Regen in this model is zero because we also did not have traction upon which to generate power when reversing. However I used 50W of power to go forward, and 50W of power to stop. Ideal and efficient use of power. :)

Example 2: The perfect ride
We're at sea level, standard temperature & pressure, windless day at Noon, and the road is brand-spankin’ new and quite level. The Ebike has just broken in and the bearings are rolling smooth as perfect as possible, as are the new perfectly pressurized tires having the least rolling resistance possible. The bike & I are at rest. Let’s add 1000W of power until we achieve a velocity of 50 kph (31 mph). The losses on this system are:
  • Controller, harness wiring, and motor design
  • Effects of Inertia upon the wheels rolling forward
  • Resistance & slippage induced by traction of the tires against the asphalt
  • Wind resistance at velocity
  • Finally – the actual amount of power, including the inertia of the entire ebike & rider used to raise the speed from zero to 50 kph.
Other than the last item, the rest is wasted energy, also called “drag”.

Now that the bike and I are moving forward, our velocity immediately begins to degrade due to resistances within the system, what we call "drag". Unless we use throttle to maintain our velocity, the bike & I will slowly come to a stop. Therefore we apply throttle to hold our speed constant… for many miles.

We approach a stop sign ahead. Instead of mechanical brake, I invoke regen which turns the motor into generator/electric brake. The wheel resists changing speed in the same manner as when applying power to accelerate. Presuming the controller has the same efficiency using battery power to create forward motion as it does taking motor-generated power and pushing it back into the battery, and all other forms of drag remain the same, the bike will come to a stop much sooner than coasting. Let’s forget we have to use mechanical brakes to stop the last 5 kph.

Regen can only hope to recover 100% of the power used to provide forward motion. Because we are not in free space, because we have drag, all power used to hold the velocity constant is not recoverable. Therefore on long trips the positive contributions of regen are very small. However, the situation is actually even worse than that because we have losses when trying to go forward from zero that have no hope of recovery, compounded by losses during regen/braking that also cannot be recovered. Let’s say the system is 60% efficient in forwards and braking. If I used 1000W to go forward, 400W was lost to drag, and 600W was used to propel the ebike forward. Now we brake: I can only hope to recover 600W, but because my system is 60% efficient, we only get back 360W because 240W was lost to drag.

There’s also another problem with regen: Unless the controller has been modified to convert high potential, the amount of instantaneous conversion is capped and shunted off as waste heat.

Imagine I had a dam that was just below my height and holding back a stream of water so that only a trickle came over the top. Regen attempts to capture energy and put it back into the battery. So, I bend over and with a drinking cup – scoop up some water, then lift lift lift the cup over the height of the dam and then dump the water back in. Lifting that cup of water takes work, takes energy. I didn’t get very tired from it cos it’s only a cup of water. But what if I’m dumping a lot of water, similar to an ebike going very fast down a hill: Lots of power there! My little cup can’t handle the flow. Let’s grab a bucket. I race like mad trying to capture all that flow and dump it back behind the dam. Pretty soon I’m real hot from working so hard, and I can’t capture all the flow.

Therefore, Regen can’t add significant range to an ebike because of inherited losses either by design, or by poor manufacturing quality, or by elements of weather, or by the riding conditions. The best that it can do is recover some of the energy used to accelerate the bike, and the source of that acceleration can also be from going downhill. If you start your journey from a tall hill and end up at the bottom, there’s a chance you could wind up with more energy in your pack than when you started. But the reality is that most people wind up with a lot less.

We’re not in space. There’s no free lunch. Regen works best for braking, and nothing more. And a well-maintained bike with proper tire pressure, along with good aerodynamics will have the best effects against drag.

Wired or straight-jacketed… my responses are the same. KF
 
SamTexas said:
wesnewell said:
I'm absolutely sure. When I leave the house with 74.1V before I get on the bike, then set cruise at 7mph and it sags a little til I match speed. Then I keep pedaling to 15mph downhill and voltage goes to 74.2, then a little more and it goes to 74.3, etc. I ordered a pair of those sunglasses camera that I expect in about a week so I could record going up some of the hills around here. I'll just make a video of this too. FWIW, my cruise control is not speed, but by throttle setting. Meaning it's not really cruise control, but throttle control. IOW's going up a hill won't maintain the same speed set on flat ground. It's set with a button, not by holding the throttle in one position for a number of seconds.
This is totally new to me. Does it only happen with a "re-gen" enabled controller?
Not sure. Recently switched to a 24s lipo pack which effectively disabled regen and I no longer get any charging. It could be because I just can't pedal enough to generate enough voltage to go higher than the 90-100V pack I'm using now. I need to change the LVC to get regen working again, or maybe I'll just forget it and hook up the E-ABS brakes.
 
Kingfish said:
pff7 said:
Instead of the regen going to to the battery,which everyone seems to think is just a waste, I wonder if the regen is enough to charge a separate small battery for a bike light? And could it be possibly be wired for such?
:idea: Run your light off the main pack. This way - even if the pack runs out of power, your motor will generate enough power from you pedaling forward to light the bulb; it might not be very bright though :|

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this would mean without moving light goes off,no?(especially if the main pack runs out of all power)----going to a (small)battery would still give me light when stopping at intersections,ect.

I have a DC-DC converter that creates 12V and 5V for my external lighting; the 12V is used for LED turn signals and brake lights, and the 5V runs my High-powered LED headlamps and Blinkies.


Example 1: Ideal Condtions
Imagine I am in deep space between two galaxies where the effects of gravity are close to nil, and also not affected by solar wind or any other distractions. In this void of cold space there is billiard ball with a thruster attached, the object is at rest. Let’s add 50W of power to achieve a velocity of 50 kph (31 mph); Acceleration and velocity begins at zero, and when we reach our terminal velocity we shut off the power: Acceleration goes to zero, though velocity is held constant. Because there are no resistances in the deep void, the velocity going forward remains constant and consumes no energy to maintain. Now let's come to a stop: We rotate the object 180* and then fire the thrusters using 50W of power: Acceleration goes negative, and velocity reduces up to zero – and we shut off the power.

Regen in this model is zero because we also did not have traction upon which to generate power when reversing. However I used 50W of power to go forward, and 50W of power to stop. Ideal and efficient use of power. :)

Example 2: The perfect ride
We're at sea level, standard temperature & pressure, windless day at Noon, and the road is brand-spankin’ new and quite level. The Ebike has just broken in and the bearings are rolling smooth as perfect as possible, as are the new perfectly pressurized tires having the least rolling resistance possible. The bike & I are at rest. Let’s add 1000W of power until we achieve a velocity of 50 kph (31 mph). The losses on this system are:
  • Controller, harness wiring, and motor design
  • Effects of Inertia upon the wheels rolling forward
  • Resistance & slippage induced by traction of the tires against the asphalt
  • Wind resistance at velocity
  • Finally – the actual amount of power, including the inertia of the entire ebike & rider used to raise the speed from zero to 50 kph.
Other than the last item, the rest is wasted energy, also called “drag”.

Now that the bike and I are moving forward, our velocity immediately begins to degrade due to resistances within the system, what we call "drag". Unless we use throttle to maintain our velocity, the bike & I will slowly come to a stop. Therefore we apply throttle to hold our speed constant… for many miles.

We approach a stop sign ahead. Instead of mechanical brake, I invoke regen which turns the motor into generator/electric brake. The wheel resists changing speed in the same manner as when applying power to accelerate. Presuming the controller has the same efficiency using battery power to create forward motion as it does taking motor-generated power and pushing it back into the battery, and all other forms of drag remain the same, the bike will come to a stop much sooner than coasting. Let’s forget we have to use mechanical brakes to stop the last 5 kph.

Regen can only hope to recover 100% of the power used to provide forward motion. Because we are not in free space, because we have drag, all power used to hold the velocity constant is not recoverable. Therefore on long trips the positive contributions of regen are very small. However, the situation is actually even worse than that because we have losses when trying to go forward from zero that have no hope of recovery, compounded by losses during regen/braking that also cannot be recovered. Let’s say the system is 60% efficient in forwards and braking. If I used 1000W to go forward, 400W was lost to drag, and 600W was used to propel the ebike forward. Now we brake: I can only hope to recover 600W, but because my system is 60% efficient, we only get back 360W because 240W was lost to drag.

There’s also another problem with regen: Unless the controller has been modified to convert high potential, the amount of instantaneous conversion is capped and shunted off as waste heat.

Imagine I had a dam that was just below my height and holding back a stream of water so that only a trickle came over the top. Regen attempts to capture energy and put it back into the battery. So, I bend over and with a drinking cup – scoop up some water, then lift lift lift the cup over the height of the dam and then dump the water back in. Lifting that cup of water takes work, takes energy. I didn’t get very tired from it cos it’s only a cup of water. But what if I’m dumping a lot of water, similar to an ebike going very fast down a hill: Lots of power there! My little cup can’t handle the flow. Let’s grab a bucket. I race like mad trying to capture all that flow and dump it back behind the dam. Pretty soon I’m real hot from working so hard, and I can’t capture all the flow.

Therefore, Regen can’t add significant range to an ebike because of inherited losses either by design, or by poor manufacturing quality, or by elements of weather, or by the riding conditions. The best that it can do is recover some of the energy used to accelerate the bike, and the source of that acceleration can also be from going downhill. If you start your journey from a tall hill and end up at the bottom, there’s a chance you could wind up with more energy in your pack than when you started. But the reality is that most people wind up with a lot less.

We’re not in space. There’s no free lunch. Regen works best for braking, and nothing more. And a well-maintained bike with proper tire pressure, along with good aerodynamics will have the best effects against drag.

Wired or straight-jacketed… my responses are the same. KF
 
wesnewell said:
SamTexas said:
wesnewell said:
I'm absolutely sure. When I leave the house with 74.1V before I get on the bike, then set cruise at 7mph and it sags a little til I match speed. Then I keep pedaling to 15mph downhill and voltage goes to 74.2, then a little more and it goes to 74.3, etc. I ordered a pair of those sunglasses camera that I expect in about a week so I could record going up some of the hills around here. I'll just make a video of this too. FWIW, my cruise control is not speed, but by throttle setting. Meaning it's not really cruise control, but throttle control. IOW's going up a hill won't maintain the same speed set on flat ground. It's set with a button, not by holding the throttle in one position for a number of seconds.
This is totally new to me. Does it only happen with a "re-gen" enabled controller?
Not sure. Recently switched to a 24s lipo pack which effectively disabled regen and I no longer get any charging. It could be because I just can't pedal enough to generate enough voltage to go higher than the 90-100V pack I'm using now. I need to change the LVC to get regen working again, or maybe I'll just forget it and hook up the E-ABS brakes.

My understanding is that a DD motors are sometimes "self-excited" meaning the field coils are powered by the current produced by the DD motor itself. The field coils are connected in series or parellel with the armature winding. When the DD motor first starts to turn(without juice), the small amount of remnant magnetism present in the iron core provides a magnetic field to get it started, generating a small current in the armature. This flows through the field coils, creating a larger magnetic field which generates a larger armature current. Apparently this process continues until the magnetic field in the core levels off due to saturation and a power output is produced. Don't see how a 24s lipo pack effectively disables regen? Except maybe by "leaking" voltage?
 
pff7 said:
My understanding is that a DD motors are sometimes "self-excited" meaning the field coils are powered by the current produced by the DD motor itself. The field coils are connected in series or parellel with the armature winding. When the DD motor first starts to turn(without juice), the small amount of remnant magnetism present in the iron core provides a magnetic field to get it started, generating a small current in the armature. This flows through the field coils, creating a larger magnetic field which generates a larger armature current. Apparently this process continues until the magnetic field in the core levels off due to saturation and a power output is produced.

None of the common ebike motors use field coils, but rather permanent magnets for the field (rotor in brushless, case/stator in brushed). Only the stator (brushless) or rotor (brushed) uses coils and an electromagnetic field.

Series-wound brushed motors (often called Universal) do have field coils but they are not self-energized; they are powered by the same current thru both armature and field coils. Other brushed motors not using permanent magnets have variations on the theme, but again are powered by the controller itself.

Generally, if you don't put a current thru a non-PM motor from the controller first, there is no magnetic field at all and thus no regenerative current. There might be some tiny field left in the laminations but I doubt it would be enough to cause enough current to flow even at very high speed to kickstart the process--I've never tested the theory, though. Regen braking using series-wound brushed motors is possible but from what Iv'e heard and read from controller designers, it can be complex, and most of the controllers I have seen, read about, or worked with do not implement any form of it. Easier to do wtih shunt-wound motors but still requires a controller that can deal with it.


Brushless multiphase motors with field coils isntead of magnets might also be possible (like alternators can be), but then the field coils do have brushes, to get the power to them since they're on the spinning part of the motor. (or vice-versa, with field fixed on stator and main phase coils on rotor, which would then be brushed). I expect it's at least as complex to do regen on one of those as it is on a normal brushed universal motor, maybe more.


Don't see how a 24s lipo pack effectively disables regen?
Because most ebike controllers only allow regen up to some set voltage level, usually a lot lower than what you get out of a 24s pack. Some of them can be modified to allow it at higher voltages, but this also changes other characteristics of the controller that you might not want to change. Take a read thru the various Infineon / Xie Chang / Ecrazyman controller threads for various discussions about that.
 
pff7 said:
Don't see how a 24s lipo pack effectively disables regen? Except maybe by "leaking" voltage?
Because it's a 72V controller, so it checks voltages and and won't allow regen curent higher than about 78V. This can be changed by changing resistor values in the circuit, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort. The main advantage imo was the braking power it provided at higher speeds down to about 5mph. I'm thinking I'd just a soon inable the actual abs brake system that provides real braking power to a dead stop iirc.
 
wesnewell said:
pff7 said:
Don't see how a 24s lipo pack effectively disables regen? Except maybe by "leaking" voltage?
Because it's a 72V controller, so it checks voltages and and won't allow regen curent higher than about 78V. This can be changed by changing resistor values in the circuit, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort. The main advantage imo was the braking power it provided at higher speeds down to about 5mph. I'm thinking I'd just a soon inable the actual abs brake system that provides real braking power to a dead stop iirc.
Exactly.
  • Upgrade the controller to handle higher voltage – and thus greater braking capacity, or
  • Purchase a controller rated for the task, 100V with required amperage.
~KF
 
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