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Hub motor hall sensor issues

Xxgingercak3sxX

New here
Joined
Jul 1, 2025
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2
Location
Pottstown, Pennsylvania
Hello friends, this is my first time posting here after years of lurking on this forum for advice. If this is not the correct place to post this I apologize. A few months ago I purchased an econic cycles 12” hub motor (8.5” actual motor size, 12.5” wheel) for my 2001 Polaris SLX707 electric scooter.

Upon first testing I did notice that it did not have the smoothest start but shrugged it off to possibly being the generic Amazon brushless controller that I only intended to use until I could afford the Kelly controller I had my eyes on. From a dead stop the scooter would lightly click and lurch forward 2 or 3 times on throttle before any actual forward momentum would happen. I remedied this by simply always giving it a kick start or running start to relieve the motor of unnecessary stress as well as save some battery and this has worked just fine for almost 7 months now.

About 2 months ago I received my Kelly controller in the mail and went through all of the rewiring and what nots I’ve done countless times on many electric bikes and scooter, however this time I could not for the life of me get the Kelly to auto-identify and it was repeatedly giving me a “hall sensor error”.

Looking more into the error code I read up on how to properly test and identify hall sensor issues, errors and failures and found that I do have a malfunctioning hall sensor. Of the blue yellow and green, when spinning the motor (wheel) by hand the yellow and green cycle on and off properly and both read proper voltage. However the blue wire sensor seemed to be reading several volts higher than what it should be and does not cycle off at all when the scooter is powered on and the wheel is moved by had.

After watching a few videos I ordered a 20 pack of A3144 hall sensors and opened the case to attempt the job. What I found however was a bunch of white silicone all over the motherboard and windings, presumably to stop vibration. I’ve located the correct hall sensor but felt that if I try to remove the silicone it may damage the traces on the motherboard. So, feeling defeated I put the motor back together and put my new controller back in the box.

Now I do still use this scooter every day with the cheap Amazon controller to get back and forth to work with no issues. I’m not sure what to do.

Sorry for the long run up but my question is this, what exactly are my options here? Are there any reputable companies that I could maybe ship the motor out to that would be able to replace the sensor (preferably for less than spending another $300), or is there an easy way to remove this silicone without damaging the board so that I could do this myself?

The last thing I want to do is spend another $300+ to get a new motor when this ones fix seems like it is should be so simple,, Again I apoligize for the book and appreciate anyone that takes the time to actually read all of this. I didn’t take any pictures when I had the motor open however if that would be helpful just let me know and I can do so,
 

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Hi, i added paragraph breaks to your post because it was impossible to read without them.
Just FYI you're more likely to get an answer on this forum if the question is easy to read and preferably short. But i'll bite.

I've never heard of companies that do surgery on cheap motors like this.
Pictures of the problem area would be helpful.

Was the motor used or new? did it have anything indicating hall sensor issues when you first got it?

A sensorless controller will drive a motor like this all day. I like the phaserunner and VESC controllers because both can do sensorless drive. ( VESC sensorless is miles better though ) The only downside is a little stuttering at start and lower initial torque. But it is a way to make an unrepairable motor work!
 
Thanks for the reply and edits! The motor was new when purchased and did exhibit the problem when I received it.

Because I assumed the problem was the cheap controller I was using I never reached out to the company. If I had investigated sooner I probably could’ve gotten it replaced but it was after the 30 day warranty period.

I will take pictures of the open motor in a day or so when I have time to fully take it apart again, probably Friday afternoon
 
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