Hub motor mid drive full suspension chopper

So much awesome here I'm going to comment before even taking the time to read this thread. Been thinking about doing something along the same lines for a while now so it's nice to watch someone else struggle with it first.

Keep going! I think you're on the right track.

[EDIT]

OK I've read through this now and I feel like I'm missing something important regarding the drive train. Is the hub motor threaded on both sides for a freewheel, perchance?
 
AFAICT it's just being used "backwards", with the drive side on the left, ratehr than the right. So the motor pulling on the cog on it will tighten the cog instead of loosening it.
 
fourbanger said:
So much awesome here I'm going to comment before even taking the time to read this thread. Been thinking about doing something along the same lines for a while now so it's nice to watch someone else struggle with it first.

Keep going! I think you're on the right track.

[EDIT]

OK I've read through this now and I feel like I'm missing something important regarding the drive train. Is the hub motor threaded on both sides for a freewheel, perchance?


Thank you for your encouragement.

Your question about the FW thread. Yes the motor is threaded on both sides but you can use a motor with thread only on one side. I am using this motor flipped. Right hand side left, spinning backward. Because left side shaft is hollow for wires to go through, I want to use solid stronger side (right) to take the load. Left side thread is, originally, for disc brake I think, now, on the right side but I am not using it.
 
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It's been awhile since the last update. A bit of slow going but I almost finished the bike and took it out for spin.

Here is a same problem as before, I have uploaded the pics but it does not show on the post.

































































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Looks like you've preserved low unsprung weight as much as possible.

What's in the box at the end of the rear rack?
 
Looks good, can I ask what performance gain another than the unsprung weight would you gain from making a hub-motor mid drive. You already have a small rear wheel? Why not put there?
 
Audisport09 said:
Looks good, can I ask what performance gain another than the unsprung weight would you gain from making a hub-motor mid drive. You already have a small rear wheel? Why not put there?

Thanks for your comment, and that's a very good question. As you know, the top speed is depend on the wattage you spend, so there is no difference between DD or mid drive. In this case, it is 2.5Kw, the top speed is about 65kmh more or less.

Then why mid drive? Benefit of mid drive are, mostly, hill climb and efficiency. Because you can change gear according to the condition, so the motor is always running at efficient range. Plus, You don't have to worry about overheating motor when you climb up the steep hills. This bike goes up the hills like nothing.

Then why hub motor for mid drive? Because it is substantially low cost compare to ready made BB mount mid drive, also,easier maintenance and this is the most reason why I made this is, no proprietary, ie, expensive, hard to find parts. All the pieces are easy to find bicycle parts or modified one, easy to replace with another piece. Cost a lot less than the manufactured mid drive.
 
Was wondering the size of your Lg Chain Ring to drive that 20" wheel?

Waiting on a frame so I can start a Long Wheel Base build for road riding. How is the sway or handling?
 
ZeroEm said:
Was wondering the size of your Lg Chain Ring to drive that 20" wheel?

Waiting on a frame so I can start a Long Wheel Base build for road riding. How is the sway or handling?

You mean the chain ring on the rear BB? That is 36T. The tire is 20x3 Kenda.

Handling is a bit touchy, a little different from other bikes in the begging but I got use to it, I feel OK now.
I think it is because the CG of the bike is low due to the location of the battery packs and hub motor.
 
Was wondering about the forward Chainring?

From the pictures the weight looks well laid out. Wonder what the ratio should be on bikes. 60% rear 40% front.
My trike i'm sure I have 60+ on the front wheels for stability.
 
ZeroEm said:
Was wondering about the forward Chainring?

From the pictures the weight looks well laid out. Wonder what the ratio should be on bikes. 60% rear 40% front.
My trike i'm sure I have 60+ on the front wheels for stability.

Sorry about that. The chain ring on the pedal crank is 52T. That drives the FW (14T) on the rear chain ring. That allow me to pedal at about 75rpm when the bike is going at 60kmp on 4th gear.

Weight ratio is about 55% front 45% rear, but that's without me on it and I sit a bit rearward so the actual ratio would be 40F 60R I guess. I am not an expert of the weight ratio, so I really don't know what's the ideal ratio is.
 
keep an eye on the kenda flame sidewall where it meets the rim, its a weak spot that i find wears out when the tread is still good. youll start to see the rubber flaking off and the chords start showing then those chords "cut/saw" a hole in the intertube :evil: atleast theyre cheap to buy at canadian tire :thumb:
 
goatman said:
keep an eye on the kenda flame sidewall where it meets the rim, its a weak spot that i find wears out when the tread is still good. youll start to see the rubber flaking off and the chords start showing then those chords "cut/saw" a hole in the intertube :evil: atleast theyre cheap to buy at canadian tire :thumb:


Thanks for the info. I thought too, the sidewall is a bit thin compare to the tread when I put the tire on. At least it's not expensive. I wonder how long it's going to last. Do you have any other tire you can recommend?
 
ZeroEm said:
How is this working out?

Working out pretty good, thanks for asking. I rode the bike over 500km now. Only problem I had was the ground clearance. When I passed over a speed bump, the motor hit the bump a few times. So, I replaced the rear shock from 5" to 6" that increased the height by 2.5". Problem solved.
 
No hassles from the fuzz?
I heard BC is a different, I dont think Nanaimo has a lot of pathways which means your riding on the streets all the time right?
The one picture I saw of a house in the background brought me right back to BC then I scroll a hair up and see your in Nanaimo.

Ishikawa said:
Working out pretty good, thanks for asking. I rode the bike over 500km now. Only problem I had was the ground clearance. When I passed over a speed bump, the motor hit the bump a few times. So, I replaced the rear shock from 5" to 6" that increased the height by 2.5". Problem solved.
 
markz said:
No hassles from the fuzz?
I heard BC is a different, I dont think Nanaimo has a lot of pathways which means your riding on the streets all the time right?
The one picture I saw of a house in the background brought me right back to BC then I scroll a hair up and see your in Nanaimo.

Ishikawa said:
Working out pretty good, thanks for asking. I rode the bike over 500km now. Only problem I had was the ground clearance. When I passed over a speed bump, the motor hit the bump a few times. So, I replaced the rear shock from 5" to 6" that increased the height by 2.5". Problem solved.

That's right. Almost all the riding are on the streets. We've got a lot of cops on the payroll but we hardly see them. Maybe they are too busy hiding in the doughnuts shops. :shock:
That's good, we live in peace. All I have to watch is the rouge red neck driven 4x4 gas guzzlers and pot holes. That's we have a lot. :(
 
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