t3sla said:
Had that flat occurred only a few days later I would have been crowned slayer of Hyena's tires.
Hah, true dat!
Funnily enough that was the only other time I've had a flat on the fighter.
Hopefully that is a thing of the past now I have Beefy McBeef on the back
Not all is happiness and instant gratification though. It clears the swing arm and slots in as I knew it would but getting the nuts to do up, the motor to stay in the dropout and the rear brakes to work is going to be a task. The nuts are just a tad too big to clear the cut outs in the swing arm. No biggy, a few minutes on the grinder to knock off 1mm around the rim will sort that out. Likewise I can make spacers or just run a second nut on the inside (this is what I do currently) to space out gap between the machined shoulder on the axle. But retaining the disc brake looks like a no goer unfortunately
It mightn't be super clear from this pic but the disc is a good 5mm if not more away from where the caliper will sit. Unless I flip the bracket to the outside of the mount on the swing arm and run longer bolts and a nut instead of the threaded IS adaptor...
So at this rate I'm going to have no f'ing bike working come saturday for our ride/shoot t3sla

I better pull my finger out and get the blue specialized working. Otherwise I can throw a new tyre back on the H40 and use it, but I really wanted to get cracking with this new motor and I know once I put the H40 back on I'll lose motivation to strip it back down again.
What's your thoughts on a BMS that's programmed for 4.15 / 3.6 (balancing disabled) and the BMS discharge only wired to the ignition enable wire on the controller.
This is something I talked about doing about 2-3 years ago. hehe
Well, as far as the BMS just hooked to the ignition to cut power goes anyway. My thoughts were that I could use a wimpy low current BMS to essentially just charge/balance through and employ its LVC to turn off the controller when flat.
I'm not sure what you mean by 4.15/3.6 (balacing disabled)
You mean something with a HVC of 4.15v and LVC of 3.6 that does nothing but cut the power ?
If so that's not ideal. 4.15v threshold for balancing with a HVC of 4.2v would be good. LVC of 3.6 is probably a little on the conservative side. Good for longevity of the pack but would rob you a little with voltage sag once you're at the 3/4 discharged mark. If you didnt want to go down to the largely accepted 3.0v I'd probably want 3.3v LVC - this is what I set my controllers at The CA is typically set a little higher at 3.5v/cell for those who forget to or naughtily (me) can't be bothered running LVC beepers. Obviously I dont recommend this to noobs but the chances of sudden cell death and overdischarging the others are slim, and as I always say if that cells was weak then it was going to die anyway
Its like bulk charging with a condom on
Always bulk charge with a condom on. No one wants to feel that burning sensation and unwanted discharge :lol: