Hyena's e-bike builds (now with HD video)

[ManoisEscobar]

If you're sure you won't have any need for it then I'll gladly take it off your hands some time and at least give it a try myself. Thanks a lot!
If it gets too frustrating I can just send it on to the shop. I am usually pretty into doing things DIY that should probably be done by professionals, like the cams and clutch in my car hahahaha.

I'm not sure of the exact make, but I think it's a little smaller than a GM maybe! It measures 25cm in diameter and the spoke uhh, dangling there is 160mm .

I am having some bad luck with wheels lately.

 

[Hyena]

If you're sure you won't have any need for it then I'll gladly take it off your hands

No problem, it's yours. Actually, I might have an even better prospect for you if you want to do some more simple tinkering.
Check your PMs

I am usually pretty into doing things DIY that should probably be done by professionals, like the cams and clutch in my car

Heh, same. My attitude to everything in life is "how hard can it be?"
I've done alot of mechanical work in years gone by with no experience (suspension, brakes, electrical, turbo, top end rebuilds/cam etc). I always come out in front even after for paying for helicoils :lol:

I am having some bad luck with wheels lately.

Just paint the others yellow and tell everyone you're from bankstown uleh

 

[ManoisEscobar]

DIY is the way to go. Nothing ever really turns out to be that hard and you always learn a heap. I just started working at fox studios so I'm eager to revive some old projects, like my little baby CNC router.

Haha I actually bought the car off some guy one suburb over from Bankstown. Poor old car. I'm kind of tempted to give it the chalkboard paint treatment and turn it into a track car one day. Oooft!

 

[Rutiger]

like my little baby CNC router.

That looks awesome! Do you control it by hand or are you able to "program" it?

 

[ManoisEscobar]

At the moment just by hand, but hopefully soon I'll have 3 stepper motors to control XYZ movement and a controller for them. Then you can program where you want the tool to go and what you want to make. It's a little trickier than 3D printing because with a cutting tool it needs to be told what are inside and outside cuts. Hopefully it'll be fun when it's done but that won't be for a while now that I'm a horrible electric bike junkie. Poor thing has been gathering dust for a while : (

Still, DIY is awesome! Even if sometimes things get shelved indefinitely.

Hyena if your carby keeps playing up, maybe try Craig Macklin in Kirrawee. My old GPX250 had heaps of carb troubles. After taking it apart about 5000 infuriating times I took it to him and he used his wizardry to get it running smoothly.

https://plus.google.com/111223580616787580027/about?gl=au&hl=en

 

[stevc]

Hi, doubt if you remember, but I contacted you when you sold a bike on ebay last year. I mentioned I was retiring my Sachs Madass which I still have. Its a 50cc, (75cc big bore kit). Could be a better donor bike, or if anyone else is on the same track. I would be interested in swapping for ebike bits.

 

[Hyena]

Thanks ManoisEscobar, I ride past there all the time. I think I actually have the carby dialled in correctly now. I think it was all very tight when new and a real bugger to kick over and get running. Now with 100km on it I can get it to kick over after 2 kicks so that's pretty good (previously took me 5-10 and then stalled a few times once running)

I forgot to post that it is actually all sorted now. So fast through the gears - I'm shifting for 3rd by the time I get to the other side of a large intersection :lol:
Just gotta sort out a new exhaust for it, the current one is really restrictive and I can feel the difference from when I first tested it with 1 missing manifold bolt so it'll go well with a free flowing muffler.
I also manage to bolt up the oil cooler to the old stock air box mounting lugs. Looks just like it was meant to be there! 8)
Those on the ball might recognise the brackets on the cooler as headways bus bars :lol:

Hi, doubt if you remember, but I contacted you when you sold a bike on ebay last year. I mentioned I was retiring my Sachs Madass which I still have. Its a 50cc, (75cc big bore kit). Could be a better donor bike, or if anyone else is on the same track. I would be interested in swapping for ebike bits.

I do remember you, pity you didn't win that bike, the guy that did was a real headache!
What colour is your madass ? If it's black I might be interested but damn, my wife will kill me :lol:
Send me a PM with what you'd be looking to swap for it and we'll try and come to some arrangement
Damn the 50/70 must be gutless though, I thought the stock 125 was terrible. haha

 

[pendragon8000]

went to my old house mates place the other day and look what I found...

theres an ice bike and a madass 125. he had the ice bike b4 after i recomended he choose that route for economy and speed after his comodore got writen off.
A bag strap got caught in the chain. (FROCK haha) and i think thats when he decided to go to MC madass125. the motor (/gear box) had a bad rattle and he couldnt afford to fix it and decided it wasnt reliable enough. he may be interested in a kit swap for the bike or something if you ever need a new bike for spares. let me know and i'll pass on det's.
they do look pretty cool in real life.
good luck with the E madass. I'm patiently observing
btw 3rd gear over intersection... impressive.

 

[Hyena]

LOL, madasses are coming out of the woodwork everywhere!
Apparently the engines in these are pretty crappy and electrical failures are common too. I experienced both in mine within a month of ownership and it had only 4000km on the clock when I got it. If your mate does want to fix it dirt bike gear is a pretty easy swap and costs as little as $500 for a whole new engine and gearbox. I guess that's still relatively expensive though when the whole bikes can be had for under a grand in good working order. I guess I wouldn't mind another for spares or actually do the e-conversion on while I keep the new revvy ICE one for blatting around on in the mean time. Probably not worth the hassle and expense of shipping your mates one up from Adelaide though Ken. If stevc can get his to Sydney though that could be a goer.

 

[litespeed]

Thanks ManoisEscobar, I ride past there all the time. I think I actually have the carby dialled in correctly now. I think it was all very tight when new and a real bugger to kick over and get running. Now with 100km on it I can get it to kick over after 2 kicks so that's pretty good (previously took me 5-10 and then stalled a few times once running)

I know the trick to the original Honda motors to which these were copied from was to raise the slow jet from something to a 145 or from 145 to something higher. I wanna say it was +20 on the slow jet from stock. It's been so long I can't remember. I bought the wife and kids new Honda XR's being a 50, 70 and 100. They all took for ever to warm up and stalled non stop, changed the slow jet and the problem went away.

Good ole days!

Tom

 

[Allex]

Jay, you are pushing your Fighter to the limits with 10000W. I guess that you have a modified stock motor?
How far can one push the stock 5403 bomber motor?
Right now I have 76V@65A and it is holding 113F tops on the covers.
Thx in advance!

 

[Rix]

LOL, madasses are coming out of the woodwork everywhere!

It seems like the madass is the equivelent of the Honda Ruckus here. I ran into a group of Ruckus enthuiests, one who had over 14K into customizing his Ruckus.They come with 50cc enginges and this guy had a 140cc full on custom in his. Go madass.

Rick

 

[Rix]

Jay, here is a modified madass that is also badass.

 

[Hyena]

I know the trick to the original Honda motors to which these were copied from was to raise the slow jet from something to a 145 or from 145 to something higher. I wanna say it was +20 on the slow jet from stock. It's been so long I can't remember. I bought the wife and kids new Honda XR's being a 50, 70 and 100. They all took for ever to warm up and stalled non stop, changed the slow jet and the problem went away.
Good ole days!

Good ole days indeed! Thanks for the tips on the carby jets. I've only ever ridden dirt bikes in the past and never had an ICE bike that I've relied on as a commuter. To think of a modern bike in this day and age relying on carbies and needing to warm up until they perform right is almost a foreign concept. Even my first car in the late 80s had EFI so it was never something I had to fiddle with. It's not really an issue, I start the bike an let it idle for a minute while I put on my gear and then by the time I get a few streets away it's running happily. It is a reminder though of how good ebikes are that you can just jump on at a seconds notice and be speeding away an instant later.

Jay, you are pushing your Fighter to the limits with 10000W. I guess that you have a modified stock motor?
How far can one push the stock 5403 bomber motor?
Right now I have 76V@65A and it is holding 113F tops on the covers.

Modified everything! 72v 18ah lipo battery, 100 amp modded controller and bigger modded motor too.
Your bomber will take 100 amp bursts happily if your stock battery can handle it.

It seems like the madass is the equivelent of the Honda Ruckus here.

I think in the US they're sold as the xkeleton trickster
But yeah, it seems there's always a crowd somewhere that takes modding something cheap or mundane to the extreme!
That dual sport madass looks good. I've seen another one too set up for full offroad duties with big knobbies and upgraded forks.
I actually took mine for a sneaky ride in national park the other day - I was out exploring on the road and came across a fire trail closed to motos, cars etc. It was largely down hill so I just killed the engine and held the clutch in and coasted for a good mile in silence. When I came to a grade I let the clutch to kick the motor back over again, zipped up it then killed it engine again. Ahh the tranquility

 

[Rix]

Jay, I was going through some pics and came across the only pic I took of my 09 DRZ SM400 back in 2010. Had a hi compression 436 big bore kit, camd, jetted and tons of head work done and airbox mods. Looks pretty stock except the FMF exhaust, but this thing was fast. Full tuck I could pull 117 indicated mph. I went to 45t on the rear sprocket (41T stock) to slow it down a little and give it even more accel. 3rd gear power wheelies at the snap of the throttle and still good for 101 indicated mph even though I was well into redline. Since you are on the Badass madass subject, thought I would share this pic. Sooo... how is the TC working out?

Rick

 

[litespeed]

I had a DRZ400 myself. Great bike but like a fool I bought the kicker!!! Crazy how fast and deceptive it was coming from 2 smokes. No noise and then pass everyone. Had torque like an electric motor and climbed like a billy goat. Best bike I ever owned minus the decompression/kick,decompression,kick....ect.ect.ect... I was wasting everyone on 2 strokes and only the best tuned 426s could beat me out of the hole but since they were 4 speeds I always took them in the long run. I just dumped that on to craigslist 2 summers back. I really need a bomber or greyborg.

Sigh!

Tom

 

[Rix]

My cousin had an 01 DRZ400 with a 476 big bore kit and Yoshimura exhaust. He was hole-shoting 250 2smokers and 450 CRFs on the winter MX track up in Idaho years ago. I think part of the reason the DRZ worked so well against what should have been faster machines was the offroad traction facture and how that engine just seemed to work perfectly for anything that wasn't hero dirt. One of the best underrated machines out there.

Rick

 

[Hyena]

Yeah I've heard the DRZ400s are pretty good for all the above reasons. The SM would be high on my list if I was going to keep with gassers.
Re the crown, I have it bolted up on my fighter currently, laced to a nice 2" wide 24" rim and it looks pretty staunch. The crown disc mount is deeper than previous motors which is good as the disc goes straight on without a spacer for caliper clearance. The down side is the disc now hits the caliper adapter, by quite a fair margin. The solution is to cut off the disc brake mount and reweld it on the far, outer edge of the swing arm. This won't be happening immediately and I'm just riding with no rear brakes for now but the fighter is due for a full pull down and overhaul so I'll sort out all that then. I'm thinking a change of colour will be in order along with a few more custom touches. A clue, it'll involve new side covers and a paint job that's not necessarily all one solid colour :wink:



The lipo battery is starting to get pretty tired now 2 years later and while I'm sure i'd get plenty more from it if I took it more easily I'm happy to retire it in the interest of keeping up peak performance. I also noticed a little boo boo, due to me squeezing max capacity into the frame I had to use very thin padding on the side covers. This seems to have worn through and the battery has actually started arcing/burning through the aluminium side cover! Not sure how this happened as nothing should be earthed to the frame, but yeah, it did!

View attachment 1

The 18S 18ah pack will be swapped out for a 21S 16ah pack. So a little less capacity but moar voltage and overall actually a few more watthours (1250 vs 1200)
I was tempted to fit an 18650 battery to it and I worked out I could somewhat comfortably shoe horn in 180 cells which would be good for a 20S9P pack. Using 2.9ah 3C cells this would give me a very respectable 26ah capacity which would be good for 75A peak but I ideally want to run more than that, and more often than the occasional spike. The alternative was higher powered 10C cells in 2ah capacity which would have yielded an 18ah pack that could fairly happily deliver 100 amps but the price was starting to get up there a bit. So I'm sticking with lipo for now, giving the rapidly evolving 18650 tech a little longer to mature and I'm sure I'll end up using that in 2 years time when this battery is due for replacement. By then I expect 20C 4ah cells in the 18650 package

 

[Rix]

How you getting the 21s lipo? Three 7S 5.8Ah packs in series? One thing about 21s lipo, you can use a 24s Lifepo4 charger for bulk charging to about 4.17 volts per cell. No custom set voltage chargers needed. if there is room to parrell 3banks series by 3 parallel for a total of 9, gives you over 1500 wh hot off the charger. whats the dimensions of your Fighter frame? Do some math and see if its possible.

Rick

 

[Hyena]

8ah zippy packs. 6x5S and 2x6S. The frame is slightly wider at the bottom so I can fit the extra width of 2x6S with 2x5S (11S2P) but up the neck end it'll the 4x5S (10S2P)
I could possibly have squeezed in 2x6S up the front as well for 22S total but it would have been a bit of a squeeze and padding would have to be minimal which I want to avoid this time. I also have a 21S Li-ion BMS here which is quite suitable for lipo HVC and balancing too. LVC is a little low at 2.75v but I set my CA at 3.5v/cell anyway so I'd never go near a 3v LVC anyway. In the event of a runt cell suddenly getting very low it'll still catch it before things go really south anyway.

And yeah, as you say I could potentially use a 24S lifepo4 charger if I needed to borrow one. But with lipo chemistry the nominal voltage is actually around 80v so that's nice for a bit of extra pep.

It's interesting in testing the difference that the extra few volts makes with the crown motor. On my old pack at 75v full charge it instantly sags down to around 66-68v on full throttle and is quite smooth. With a half charged 6S booster to take it up to high 80s the throttle response becomes very twitchy and savagely leaps away at any speed if you just bump the throttle. I'll do a bit of phase current tuning once the final setup is installed and get it running right though. I'm tempted to fit up my big 350a sabvoton sine controller while I have the bike in pieces but I think it'll end up overkill.

 

[Rix]

///edit///Interesting lipo combo to get the 21S. So you are going to use the 8Ah banks. Rated for 30c, should be enough for your sin wave 350 ah controller. I know I know, you are not putting 350ah through the TC. But if you wanted to smoke some stators wires, you got the option. See what you mena with the brake caliper if you could just cut and move the bracket over 12mm or so. That would be perfect, and then you could use spacer to go back to your other motor. Using regen for a rear brake only can be an option, but its nice to be able to lock up the rear wheel on the command should the need arise. I like following your expiremental research. Cant recall, are you running the TC80 or 65?

 

[Hyena]

Yep, moving the brake mount to the far outer edge of the swing arm rather than the inner edge will solve the problem. Luckily being crmo it'll be easy to weld. I wont go crazy with the power, probably stick with 100 amps for now as it's a nice round number. But yeah, if I do switch out controllers I will atleast have to take it for a test ride with it turned up to 11
The 350A is phase amps by the way not battery amps, but still silly for a bicycle. I have the TC80 laced up currently but have a TC65 here as well if I want to swap the guts over. The TC65 on 100v is actually my pick for overall performance and really shines but it just wasnt practical to fit the extra capacity in the fighter frame. These winds are directly comparable to my old H4080 and 65 and I missed the extra top end when running the 65 on 18S, though I've given the TC80 a bit more legs again with an extra 12v this time around. I'll see how it goes, if I'm not happy it's easy to swap the stators. And lets be honest, how long do I actually keep the same motor on this bike for anyway This will be the 4th different motor in 2 years :lol:

And yeah, regen only on the back for now. It pulls up pretty well for street riding but for trail riding as you say it's nice to be able to lock up the rear for "skid steering" etc

I'm tossing up whether to weld over the stock CA holes in the frame while I have it stripped, maybe remove the key switch as well and wire up a keyless ignition and immobiliser with a transmitter

 

[full-throttle]

The down side is the disc now hits the caliper adapter, by quite a fair margin.

That's the wrong adapter. It's either for Boxxer or Qr20. Rear Hayes adapters are 10.5mm thick with the bolts in the centre.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I was tempted to fit an 18650 battery to it and I worked out I could somewhat comfortably shoe horn in 180 cells which would be good for a 20S9P pack. Using 2.9ah 3C cells this would give me a very respectable 26ah capacity which would be good for 75A peak but I ideally want to run more than that, and more often than the occasional spike. The alternative was higher powered 10C cells in 2ah capacity which would have yielded an 18ah pack that could fairly happily deliver 100 amps but the price was starting to get up there a bit. So I'm sticking with lipo for now, giving the rapidly evolving 18650 tech a little longer to mature and I'm sure I'll end up using that in 2 years time when this battery is due for replacement. By then I expect 20C 4ah cells in the 18650 package

Let me know when you end up looking to buy the 18650 pack. I will be after one at some stage in the future also, and if we time it right, maybe we could get a better deal on a bulk buy of cells.

Cheers

 

[dan974]

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bx84WdGcXCDAdVBwNnM4c0ZLRTA/edit
maybe I did not understand the problem very well but in case did you try a 180 or 160 post mount adapter , that way with a 5mm plate and 4screws ?