spinningmagnets
100 TW
Sounds like an absolutely brilliant plan, I will be watching this with great interest...
Hyena's YamEha Conversion
- Thread starter Hyena
- Start date
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
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- 3,702
I think the bike you found looks the tits, and will make a great donor. However just wanted to pitch a bike I for all summer thought was a full powered MT 01 from yamaha. Which I late in the summer passed in the parking garage just as the driver was parking it. It was a tiny 125cc motor. I had passed that bike in the garage many a times and always thought it was the angry mt 01. I was wrong, a 125. With ups fork, big brakes and wide handlebars.
Have you looked at the Yamaha MT 125cc? That fighter style biked got a full size chassi, so it won't feel cramped and should have ample space for batteries and controller. If you are lucky you might even find one with a dead engine for pennies on the dollar. Don't know if it uses the well known aluminum delta box frame from yamaha. If it is alu it will be super light weight yet still rigid when you make battery case a stress member. Rear tire 130/70-17. Don't know how the clearing is if you can fit wider tire.
I think that particular 125 cc looks great and very modern, you might not as it is missing the frame type you liked. IT also is a naked bike, with an upright riding position. So might be less efficient then the full fairing bike you posted. But them fighter style bikes are so fun to ride aggressively.
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes-for-sale/yamaha/mt-125/
Have you looked at the Yamaha MT 125cc? That fighter style biked got a full size chassi, so it won't feel cramped and should have ample space for batteries and controller. If you are lucky you might even find one with a dead engine for pennies on the dollar. Don't know if it uses the well known aluminum delta box frame from yamaha. If it is alu it will be super light weight yet still rigid when you make battery case a stress member. Rear tire 130/70-17. Don't know how the clearing is if you can fit wider tire.
I think that particular 125 cc looks great and very modern, you might not as it is missing the frame type you liked. IT also is a naked bike, with an upright riding position. So might be less efficient then the full fairing bike you posted. But them fighter style bikes are so fun to ride aggressively.
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes-for-sale/yamaha/mt-125/
Hyena
10 GW
I dont think we have the MT-01 here in Australia. Well we do, but it's a completely different bike - a 1600cc v twin beast.
Smallest I've seen is a MT-03 which seems to be aimed at competing with the ninja 300 and the like. Either way, they still fetch too much $$ and if I"m going to go naked I think I'd prefer something with a fancier frame. A stressed member battery box is also not on the cards from an engineering stand point.
I've found a megelli with engine troubles that's only half an hour away for $950 so that's sounding ideal. Only problem is it's red and the red fairings with the red frame is all a bit too much IMO. Apparently it's otherwise in good condition which is also one of my key requirements so it might be worth getting that and painting it. Most of the cheap donors I've looked have have been dropped and I don't want to have to chase new bodywork as that could end up costing equally as much if not more than the whole bike.
Anyway I'll go check it out on the weekend and if it really is in good condition all round otherwise I'll probably buy it.
I still need to get my futr beta finished first so this will be a xmas holidays project.
Smallest I've seen is a MT-03 which seems to be aimed at competing with the ninja 300 and the like. Either way, they still fetch too much $$ and if I"m going to go naked I think I'd prefer something with a fancier frame. A stressed member battery box is also not on the cards from an engineering stand point.
I've found a megelli with engine troubles that's only half an hour away for $950 so that's sounding ideal. Only problem is it's red and the red fairings with the red frame is all a bit too much IMO. Apparently it's otherwise in good condition which is also one of my key requirements so it might be worth getting that and painting it. Most of the cheap donors I've looked have have been dropped and I don't want to have to chase new bodywork as that could end up costing equally as much if not more than the whole bike.
Anyway I'll go check it out on the weekend and if it really is in good condition all round otherwise I'll probably buy it.
I still need to get my futr beta finished first so this will be a xmas holidays project.
jonescg
100 MW
Hub wold be the easiest option and give you plenty of real estate for batteries.
You must have got those Multistars for cheap - I shudder to think of the KFF clusterfrock they present :lol:
See you in Sydney on the 16th of December? We're back with Voltron for the last round, so it would be great to catch up again.
You must have got those Multistars for cheap - I shudder to think of the KFF clusterfrock they present :lol:
See you in Sydney on the 16th of December? We're back with Voltron for the last round, so it would be great to catch up again.
Hyena
10 GW
For sure - already got all the bits ready to go... minus the actual bike. hahajonescg said:
The big arse controller will likely go under the seat where the stock exhaust is, unless I mount it vertically behind the shock in that gap in the fairings. That might keep the motor wiring a little shorter.
There's actually a heap more room than I really need. My pack will be relatively small/compact so it could probably fit it all down low where drawn here. If I really love it I might up upgrade to a chain drive later on for moar power (same gear sketch is using)
Yeah I got them insanely cheap. I think it was $40 USD per pack 4S16ah pack (LiHV) There'll be no backyard lipo spaghetti mess of wiring, but it won't be quite as neat as the ones you're making from bare cells.
This is how I normally parallel the multistars but I'll have to up my game for 4P and a bursts of a few hundred amps.
Cool. It's getting close to xmas chaos so not sure if I can commit to the Saturday but I'll make an effort to get out there on Friday even if it's just briefly to say g'day.
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
- Messages
- 3,702
@hyena don't mind the red color. To keep cost down you could even use 3m vinyl and wrap the fairing in different colors so only the frame and swing arm are left red. Relatively easy job, all it takes is effort and time. And unless you got dust free place to paint or a paint boot should be much cheaper then paying to have parts painted. If you look into vinyl tape cutter you can easily makes curves and lines if you decide to do more then 1 color, or if you fancy "pin stripes" or fat racing stripes or whatever high tech logo or tatoo like graphics.
Hyena
10 GW
Yeah there's a few options - I was thinking matt black plastidip is another easy one that wouldn't require me totally disassembling the bike. That said I'll need to remove all the fairings minus the nose cone anyway so I'll play it by ear.
Matt black with the gloss red frame could look cool, as long as there's no areas of rub from my legs.
And yeah, I've already considered my own graphics for a bit of a giggle. Put HYENA In a honda style font in the same sort of location they typically do
Here's a red one photoshopped as such
Matt black with the gloss red frame could look cool, as long as there's no areas of rub from my legs.
And yeah, I've already considered my own graphics for a bit of a giggle. Put HYENA In a honda style font in the same sort of location they typically do
Here's a red one photoshopped as such
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
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Yeah that was a giggle. But it will look so freakin cool. The white HYENA goes well with the black fairing and red frame. Good choice of fonts.
Plasti dip you say? Have you done any plasti dipping before? The finish of plasti dip is not that great, now matter if you choose matt or gloss. They even got clear coat, and what not in order to try and rectify what is sub par to begin with. The one good thing I can say about plasti dip is that it is fairly easy. Mask up any area you don't wanna spray and go nuts. Oh and another good thing, spraying plasti dip is not permanent. If you decide to go different color scheme you can easily do that or even remove the plasti dip. The parts I tried to plasti dip ended up being powder coated because I was not pleased with plasti dip. Too bad I haven't gotten around to build me a XL baking oven for curing and baking powder coating, cause that would really make powder coating DIY friendly and economically friendly as well. One day maybe
If you do look into vinyl wrap you will see that most likely you will be able to wrap the bike without dissemble everything. Like the fairing could probably be wrapped fully mounted to the bike. Same for the rear plastic. A hair dryer or heat gun will help you get great result. The colors and finish of the vinyl is much higher then of plasti dip, and the vinyl will last a long long time. Quality vinyl has good sun resistance and does not fade easily. And when you get comfortable with the tape cutter you will lay vinyl like a professional in multiple layers to get the exact graphics you like. And everything will be durable and withstand the baking sun pretty good. As with plasti dip if you sick of color removal is rather easy. Won't even leave residue.
Plasti dip you say? Have you done any plasti dipping before? The finish of plasti dip is not that great, now matter if you choose matt or gloss. They even got clear coat, and what not in order to try and rectify what is sub par to begin with. The one good thing I can say about plasti dip is that it is fairly easy. Mask up any area you don't wanna spray and go nuts. Oh and another good thing, spraying plasti dip is not permanent. If you decide to go different color scheme you can easily do that or even remove the plasti dip. The parts I tried to plasti dip ended up being powder coated because I was not pleased with plasti dip. Too bad I haven't gotten around to build me a XL baking oven for curing and baking powder coating, cause that would really make powder coating DIY friendly and economically friendly as well. One day maybe
If you do look into vinyl wrap you will see that most likely you will be able to wrap the bike without dissemble everything. Like the fairing could probably be wrapped fully mounted to the bike. Same for the rear plastic. A hair dryer or heat gun will help you get great result. The colors and finish of the vinyl is much higher then of plasti dip, and the vinyl will last a long long time. Quality vinyl has good sun resistance and does not fade easily. And when you get comfortable with the tape cutter you will lay vinyl like a professional in multiple layers to get the exact graphics you like. And everything will be durable and withstand the baking sun pretty good. As with plasti dip if you sick of color removal is rather easy. Won't even leave residue.
pendragon8000
100 kW
Nice one mate!
EDIT:
how did you get this $1000 for engineering and rego? do you have someone lined up to certify it Jay?
EDIT:
how did you get this $1000 for engineering and rego? do you have someone lined up to certify it Jay?
larsb
1 MW
Bump!
Time to get this one moving such a shame to have such a nice looking build forgotten.
I just ordered an APT controller as my kls7230 died so i'd also like a fellow builder using it!
Time to get this one moving
such a shame to have such a nice looking build forgotten.I just ordered an APT controller as my kls7230 died so i'd also like a fellow builder using it!
Hyena
10 GW
Yeah it's a shame I havent had time to get to this!! I still have the controller and motor sitting in their boxes
At this rate you'll be able to tell ME about how good/bad the controllers is!
At this rate you'll be able to tell ME about how good/bad the controllers is!
larsb
1 MW
I don't get any good answers from Carrie and Vito from QSmotor regarding the APT controller. It makes me doubt if i can program it and if it can function well with other than hub motors. I've only gotten a rudimentary manual so without some help i cannot know what the parameters are for. Do you have a good manual?
Think a chinese friend of yours helped you with the controller? Maybe there is a chinese manual that is better, could be translated by Google? Could you ask?
(Not refering to QS in particular)
It's really frustrating the way most ebike stores are run. There's just no good customer relations, just "sell and forget".
If ebikes.ca had high power kits i'd just pay the premium and order. That way it'd be from someone with knowledge and communication skills.
I understand all the small operations are on a tight budget but that doesn't mean you should just sell stuff, overrate it and walk away from the consequences when stuff breaks.
Think a chinese friend of yours helped you with the controller? Maybe there is a chinese manual that is better, could be translated by Google? Could you ask?
(Not refering to QS in particular)
It's really frustrating the way most ebike stores are run. There's just no good customer relations, just "sell and forget".
If ebikes.ca had high power kits i'd just pay the premium and order. That way it'd be from someone with knowledge and communication skills.
I understand all the small operations are on a tight budget but that doesn't mean you should just sell stuff, overrate it and walk away from the consequences when stuff breaks.
maydaverave
10 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2009
- Messages
- 542
Krylon fusion works really well on plastic. I painted a motorcycle military theme with the ultra flat krylon fusion camo in green and brown. Looks great still about five years later. The only problem was I had to put a two part epoxy clear coat to protect from gas then do another layer of matte clear coat. I believe they make matte two part epoxy clear coat now if you want a really durable finish.
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