Ideal Noalox

999zip999

100 TW
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
11,846
Location
Dana Point So. Cal
I had trouble with my phase wires with my Lynn controller at 72 volt 40 amp they were 4mmm and the spring ones would always fail 4 mm gold bullets so replace with 5.5 mm gold plated bullets solid .Should I add Noalox to the bullets. As I want to turn my controller to 65amps ?
I also have a battery build with spaim08 14s 1p with Copper clamps and copper rivets. I would like to use there also ?
Is this the thing to do ? For conductance ?
 
Noalox
Anti-oxidant and anti-seizing compound
Reduces galling and seizing on aluminum conduit joints
Suspended zinc particles penetrate and cut aluminum oxide
Carrier material excludes air to prevent further oxidation
Improves service life of aluminum electrical applications

Are you looking for more of a spark plug, electrical conductance liquid of some sort?
Dielectric Grease is the term.
Dielectric grease assists in preventing arcing between electrical parts. Some people have wondered about the difference between dielectric grease with other types of grease. Is dielectric grease the same as silicone grease? Why should I use dielectric grease? These are some of the questions that could be ringing in your mind.

Dielectric grease is also known as tune-up grease. It is a silicone-based and non-conductive type of grease to protect electrical connectors from corrosion, moisture, and dirt. One of the popular dielectric greases to use is Permatex Dielectric Grease and CRC dielectric grease.

It disrupts electric currents’ flow, thus making it ideal for sealing and lubricating rubber parts of electric connectors. We shall discuss more dielectric fluid, its application, how dielectric grease is used, types of dielectric grease, and its difference from regular grease.


999zip999 said:
I had trouble with my phase wires with my Lynn controller at 72 volt 40 amp they were 4mmm and the spring ones would always fail 4 mm gold bullets so replace with 5.5 mm gold plated bullets solid .Should I add Noalox to the bullets. As I want to turn my controller to 65amps ?
I also have a battery build with spaim08 14s 1p with Copper clamps and copper rivets. I would like to use there also ?
Is this the thing to do ? For conductance ?
 
999zip999 said:
I had trouble with my phase wires with my Lynn controller at 72 volt 40 amp they were 4mmm and the spring ones would always fail 4 mm gold bullets so replace with 5.5 mm gold plated bullets solid .Should I add Noalox to the bullets. As I want to turn my controller to 65amps ?
I also have a battery build with spaim08 14s 1p with Copper clamps and copper rivets. I would like to use there also ?
Is this the thing to do ? For conductance ?

Do you need them to be quick disconnects? If not, you could to go old school with a terminal block

HTB1sV4obL1H3KVjSZFBq6zSMXXar.jpg
 
Not to be contrary, but have had to work on a LOT of customer repairs where the yellow terminal blocks melted down.
They're not sturdy enough to not get loose after repeated thermal expansion cycles, esp with high amps, the nuts get loose, and the resistance goes up until they melt.
Even when really tight originally, they creep loose. The studs aren't long enough for a check nut, nylocks or locktight doesn't work when really toasty, and the cover makes it harder for checking them.
This is all based around typical end user customer stuff, where they're not going to check them anyway.

I'd skip grease unless you were storing it on a boat or beach riding a lot maybe. If it's good plating should be ok.

Some kind of rubber shield or something over it might be just as good...
 
You know my opinion, Zip. From that other thread. that said, Iwill always use what I use, withits ground up zinc or copper in it, for longevity.

My 8gage battery leads are bright green from corrosion, .. on the outside f the boot where the XT150 is.. but the XT150 is still perfectly golden from four ish years of abuse in the salty winters and hot summers. They have such a wonderful verdigris patina, the wire outside the connector....

.. the controller uses aluminum bolt on buss bars ( KELLY) and the copper aluminum joint .. is what I worry bout. So there is copper directly bolted to aluminum. Aluminum is in DIRECT CONTACT with copper ALL OVER my bike... and I dont want to worry bout my battery if it gets dunked or soaked in water or anything. I do remove a coating on the OEM chevy cell...( sand the tab bright) before re coating and riveting.

Noble metals beeing what they are.

I thought the SPIM 08HP has plated tabs ( not bare copper tab, but a plated tab just for this problem... ) .. YUP the SPIM08HP cell has a copper side and an aluminum side ( tabs) and guess what.. IT IS PLATED FOR THIS REASON... ( just went our t and checked mine)

SHRUG.

I was told to use it by people who know better than me. I have seen a very thin coating also used on OEM modules.. over the bus.. they stay shiny copper color with a coating...... I know they use some kind of clearcoat of something.

My bike is violent.. cause its battery is friggging violent.. and that is because.... Well, its so old it shouldn't be .. It has crazy power. I run my pack at 10C. Shit gets hot. It doesnt die. 1300wH in 13 miles in 15 min and its dead and charge it at 1C and do it again. 10x a day. Lol I feel bad for people with packs that rust and fail.. get wet once.. fail....Dont give super power... Dont last ten years plus.... ect. I feel bad for those guys.

I need to replace my 8Ga battery leads, they are wayyyyy to hot anymore. But they did not rot like some of the cheaper ones do.. when overheated. I do coat. I think it is worth it. Some say it dries out and gives worse conduction paths... ( luke) but I say "well then I will apply a dab more".. and if my connectors ever looked like my wire looks.. I would know they were losing volts there.



calab said:
Dielectric Grease is the term.


No?
Noalox is certainly conductive. Conductive filler in it. Dielectric =/= conductive. By definition.

Noalox is like a code thing, the thing inspectors will fail you on if you dont have it on your terminals on teh end of your runs even if it is not in the code book ( its not) on a house built... The service Company DO usually require Noalox on teh service panel input ( from the power co, meter). There are many things made for this. BUNDY makes it in many compositions and types.
 
999zip999 said:
I had trouble with my phase wires with my Lynn controller at 72 volt 40 amp they were 4mmm and the spring ones would always fail 4 mm gold bullets so replace with 5.5 mm gold plated bullets solid .Should I add Noalox to the bullets. As I want to turn my controller to 65amps ?
I also have a battery build with spaim08 14s 1p with Copper clamps and copper rivets. I would like to use there also ?
Is this the thing to do ? For conductance ?

Can you please expand on fail? how is it failing? too loose? burnt through? melted?

Dielectric grease is NOT very conductive is what I read, I will find the list of item and their conductivity rating.
When I was making my crimped connectors, I was told to use De-OX for corrosion prevention and conductivity. There were others in the list but deox was cheap and easy to find.

FROM farmandfleet online:

Since dielectric grease is a silicone grease, it should not be used on silicone-based rubbers or plastics, as it will break them down over time. The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.
 
I was using 4 mm bullets but not the solid type the ones that have the spring in them and those melted so I went up to the solid male 5.5 mm gold plated bullets for my phase wires.
Yes the Noalox grease to help the conductibility..
I know there's an old thread but somehow it popped up and from dogman down it was a good read.
Those yellow blocks scare me. But I bet there are good ones and extreme cheap ones.
 
I hate them all all those yellow things. I like my gold plated bullets and jst and for the halls I use one of those big white square 6 pin blocks just because it's easy and I wish I knew where and how to buy those ones that would match the ones that they put on the e-bike motors the big white six-pin.
See I make my bike look homeless it would usually have a big battery in the triangle but I'm redoing it the homeless look.
It works best at the beach areas where the tourists come in and they want to leave with something back to the Salton Sea or something.
 

Attachments

  • 169215105450764892884042716981.jpg
    169215105450764892884042716981.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 5
  • 16921510968627593306954781611791.jpg
    16921510968627593306954781611791.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 5
How do you secure the 4mm barrel connectors tight after you put them together?
I have seen people use electrical tape around both ends to secure them from pulling apart so easily if left un-secured.
 
I make sure there's tension on the 4mm you have four slots to open it up with ,on the 5.5 mm bullets there's six slots on the male and then I put something in there to open up those prongs so they fit with resistance. The 4 mm spring type male it's harder to put tension on them. I will be using Noalox on them now . But this controller is at 45amps. So not that much current. But at 60-80amps it's a different story. I have a question if one phase wire pulls out or apart as you're running your motor can it fry a controller fet ?
Remember you always do the JohnCR temperature
Probe and touch it with your hand and see if it's hot.
Works good for motors and controllers just put your hand on it you'll know if it's too hot.
 
Last edited:
I seen different styles of barrel connectors even among just the 4mm, I'm familiar with Hobbykings selections but I did not see any retention method, other then the red housing HK sells, no springs to clip in or anything but I know what you mean. There are better brands out there for barrel connectors but they are 3-4x the cost then cheap Hobbyking, check out Castle Creations as they seem like better quality. But those are the two I am used to. Do look into a mechanical fastener if your doing lots of connections, I know a person e who were making Dell psu's for rc chargers going old school, and found a world of ease going mechanical connectors. Tools can get expensive but so can soldering irons. XT90 is the triangle housing for 3 conductors, like the smaller version would really rock! ;)
 
Back
Top