You know my opinion, Zip. From that other thread. that said, Iwill always use what I use, withits ground up zinc or copper in it, for longevity.
My 8gage battery leads are bright green from corrosion, .. on the outside f the boot where the XT150 is.. but the XT150 is still perfectly golden from four ish years of abuse in the salty winters and hot summers. They have such a wonderful verdigris patina, the wire outside the connector....
.. the controller uses aluminum bolt on buss bars ( KELLY) and the copper aluminum joint .. is what I worry bout. So there is copper directly bolted to aluminum. Aluminum is in DIRECT CONTACT with copper ALL OVER my bike... and I dont want to worry bout my battery if it gets dunked or soaked in water or anything. I do remove a coating on the OEM chevy cell...( sand the tab bright) before re coating and riveting.
Noble metals beeing what they are.
I thought the SPIM 08HP has plated tabs ( not bare copper tab, but a plated tab just for this problem... ) .. YUP the SPIM08HP cell has a copper side and an aluminum side ( tabs) and guess what.. IT IS PLATED FOR THIS REASON... ( just went our t and checked mine)
SHRUG.
I was told to use it by people who know better than me. I have seen a very thin coating also used on OEM modules.. over the bus.. they stay shiny copper color with a coating...... I know they use some kind of clearcoat of something.
My bike is violent.. cause its battery is friggging violent.. and that is because.... Well, its so old it shouldn't be .. It has crazy power. I run my pack at 10C. Shit gets hot. It doesnt die. 1300wH in 13 miles in 15 min and its dead and charge it at 1C and do it again. 10x a day. Lol I feel bad for people with packs that rust and fail.. get wet once.. fail....Dont give super power... Dont last ten years plus.... ect. I feel bad for those guys.
I need to replace my 8Ga battery leads, they are wayyyyy to hot anymore. But they did not rot like some of the cheaper ones do.. when overheated. I do coat. I think it is worth it. Some say it dries out and gives worse conduction paths... ( luke) but I say "well then I will apply a dab more".. and if my connectors ever looked like my wire looks.. I would know they were losing volts there.
calab said:
Dielectric Grease is the term.
No?
Noalox is certainly conductive. Conductive filler in it. Dielectric =/= conductive. By definition.
Noalox is like a code thing, the thing inspectors will fail you on if you dont have it on your terminals on teh end of your runs even if it is not in the code book ( its not) on a house built... The service Company DO usually require Noalox on teh service panel input ( from the power co, meter). There are many things made for this. BUNDY makes it in many compositions and types.