recumpence
1 GW
Hey Guys!
I wanted to share some info on the new style Castle controllers. I gleaned this info both from Castle and from Bob at Astro.
The new HV160 controllers come preset for "Outrunner" mode in the PWM switching section. I cannot find the numbers (KHZ) for that. But, the next setting HIGHER is only 8khz. However, the Astro motors require 20khz or higher! Apparently the old style controllers have a higher minimum khz and would survive. However, a couple guys have blown these HV160s and it is apparently from the low khz setting. Bob from Astro told me that the inrunners of his are very low impedence and require higher khz or the controller sees huge current spikes. The controllers will run warmer, but they never get hot anyway. So, the higher frequency is not a problem. In fact, some motors will run cooler with higher khz setting. I was told to set the pwm at 24khz or the setting just below that and try it. If the motor runs smoothly and the controller does not get hot, you are good. I am not an EE, but Bob told me by doubling the pwm, you will halve the current spike height and, therefore, the ripple. Safe ripple on these controllers at 12S is 3volts. I was seeing spikes over 10 volts! So, going from somewhere under 8khz to 24khz should drop my ripple to that safe 3volts or so.
So, if I have shipped an order to you with an Astro motor and a HV160, be sure to go into the programming in the motor section and increase the PWM to 24khz or one setting below that.
Also, I had one controller die on me just by plugging it in. That is caused by current inrush into the caps and the main board. It apparently blew the 5V regulator on the brain board because my controller will not arm now. This is really only a problem with twin motor setups where you plug one motor in and it charges the caps, then you plug the second one in and the cap charge from controller #1 rushed into controller #2 and, for a millisecond or two, spikes the second controller and blows the board. I was told to use a precharge resistor for the controllers. I was told to use a 10watt, 1ohm resistor. The 10watts is required for the motor chirp. If a weaker resistor is used, the controller may not like it because the motor chirp requires 4 watts from the controller.
So, to recap;
For Astro (or other inrunners), set the controller for 24khz ir the next setting below, set the throttle for "Airplane fixed endpoint", and brake "Disabled". Beyond that, I would suggest low throttle response to drop the huge power hit at throttle-up.
Matt
I wanted to share some info on the new style Castle controllers. I gleaned this info both from Castle and from Bob at Astro.
The new HV160 controllers come preset for "Outrunner" mode in the PWM switching section. I cannot find the numbers (KHZ) for that. But, the next setting HIGHER is only 8khz. However, the Astro motors require 20khz or higher! Apparently the old style controllers have a higher minimum khz and would survive. However, a couple guys have blown these HV160s and it is apparently from the low khz setting. Bob from Astro told me that the inrunners of his are very low impedence and require higher khz or the controller sees huge current spikes. The controllers will run warmer, but they never get hot anyway. So, the higher frequency is not a problem. In fact, some motors will run cooler with higher khz setting. I was told to set the pwm at 24khz or the setting just below that and try it. If the motor runs smoothly and the controller does not get hot, you are good. I am not an EE, but Bob told me by doubling the pwm, you will halve the current spike height and, therefore, the ripple. Safe ripple on these controllers at 12S is 3volts. I was seeing spikes over 10 volts! So, going from somewhere under 8khz to 24khz should drop my ripple to that safe 3volts or so.
So, if I have shipped an order to you with an Astro motor and a HV160, be sure to go into the programming in the motor section and increase the PWM to 24khz or one setting below that.
Also, I had one controller die on me just by plugging it in. That is caused by current inrush into the caps and the main board. It apparently blew the 5V regulator on the brain board because my controller will not arm now. This is really only a problem with twin motor setups where you plug one motor in and it charges the caps, then you plug the second one in and the cap charge from controller #1 rushed into controller #2 and, for a millisecond or two, spikes the second controller and blows the board. I was told to use a precharge resistor for the controllers. I was told to use a 10watt, 1ohm resistor. The 10watts is required for the motor chirp. If a weaker resistor is used, the controller may not like it because the motor chirp requires 4 watts from the controller.
So, to recap;
For Astro (or other inrunners), set the controller for 24khz ir the next setting below, set the throttle for "Airplane fixed endpoint", and brake "Disabled". Beyond that, I would suggest low throttle response to drop the huge power hit at throttle-up.
Matt
.
