Inside a BBSHD New install
- Thread starter tomjasz
- Start date
waynebergman
100 kW
Tomjasz, I am wondering if a product called "Boeshield T-9" is much like the ACF50? Have you tried the Boeshield T-9 before, its nice stuff. The reason I ask is I have the Boeshield T-9 on hand as its great for putting a waxy coat on things like table saw beds etc but I have not thought to use it on wire connectors before?
tomjasz
1 GW
waynebergman said:
If I read the specs correctly they were both developed to do the same thing.I worked for a fixed base operator in my youth and ACF50 was there and used on the avionics on helicopters used on Forest Service fire fighting contracts. I suspect it's just a brand preference. The are a number of online comparisons.
tomjasz
1 GW
Dogboy1200
100 W
Where did you get that controller with no potting? I would love to get one and mod the shunt.tomjasz said:
tomjasz
1 GW
unobtanium deleted
Dogboy1200
100 W
Great! Thanks! I sent them a message.tomjasz said:
Lurkin
100 kW
Whats it like on a cruiser style bike? Looks the goods, whats the milage so far?
deepfraught
100 W
Thanks again for this thread Tom.
I removed the drive side cover by hand, it had resistance but popped out. The black moly grease on the secondary reduction plentiful on this new/unused BBSHD, can see the other grease referenced from what's visible.
Now I'm seeking any tips for refitting the drive side cover
The bike is lying down on its left/non-drive side with the non-drive crank/pedal attached so axle isn't going to fall through.
Putting the drive cover back on, I've tried spinning the secondary reduction ring gear hoping it will engage with the pinion, light hand force around cover, while rotating the ring gear. It's partially engaged with the pinion edge but not sliding further down. Not yet engaging the locating dowels, about 2mm gap from them.
I can see the pedal freewheel pawls and teeth on the inside of the cover, wondering if they're stopping it as I read on your further disassembly/reassembly, but I can't get anything to the pawls with the ring gear in the way.
It's a full moon staring at me through the window with some sweet moving cloud so I'm going out for a ride on a pedal only bike and do some howling at the ancient e-bike gods
or hope someone can point out a real basic step I've overlooked 
I removed the drive side cover by hand, it had resistance but popped out. The black moly grease on the secondary reduction plentiful on this new/unused BBSHD, can see the other grease referenced from what's visible.
Now I'm seeking any tips for refitting the drive side cover
The bike is lying down on its left/non-drive side with the non-drive crank/pedal attached so axle isn't going to fall through.
Putting the drive cover back on, I've tried spinning the secondary reduction ring gear hoping it will engage with the pinion, light hand force around cover, while rotating the ring gear. It's partially engaged with the pinion edge but not sliding further down. Not yet engaging the locating dowels, about 2mm gap from them.
I can see the pedal freewheel pawls and teeth on the inside of the cover, wondering if they're stopping it as I read on your further disassembly/reassembly, but I can't get anything to the pawls with the ring gear in the way.
It's a full moon staring at me through the window with some sweet moving cloud so I'm going out for a ride on a pedal only bike and do some howling at the ancient e-bike gods
or hope someone can point out a real basic step I've overlooked
tomjasz
1 GW
Sorry your creative writing has me confused, but if you pulled the axle and can't get the pawls back in you simply slide that piece off and put in in place off the axle. Then reinsert the axle and gear. But you probably figured it out by now. Or I still haven't parsed your question.
deepfraught
100 W
I removed the drive side cover, 6 bolts.
Now I can't get it back on. Axle has stayed in, bike was on its left side lying on crank/pedal, me kneeling working over top of right side, so only lifted the cover off (didn't come off easy either).
I've tried many times again with the bike standing up, still can't get it on.
I tried evenly starting the 6 bolts lightly and wiggling crank back and forth wiggling the cover, still won't go.
I tightened the bolts up slightly to see if a push was needed to get started, taps with a mallet around to try get equal straight, but just tightens up the axle so can't spin the crank arm on left side. So I backed the bolts off. Tried again a few times wiggling pushing pulling from other side.
Next thought I had was I'll lubricate the polished axle where it goes into the cover, in case it's just dry not slipping without enough force from me being restrained, or its not square/round and needs force. I haven't gone the heavy mallet strikes approach yet.
Seems so simple, it's another reminder I should have left it alone, but curiosity got me.
On to the creative writing bonus. Reminds me of pulling a scientific calculator apart as a kid, all the buttons spilt out, and I found they don't have a match on the shroud, and it was not one that displayed the function. Reverse learning unknown mathematics was way beyond my education/anility/mental fortitude. Its probably still in the same drawer in pieces 25 years later.
Now I can't get it back on. Axle has stayed in, bike was on its left side lying on crank/pedal, me kneeling working over top of right side, so only lifted the cover off (didn't come off easy either).
I've tried many times again with the bike standing up, still can't get it on.
I tried evenly starting the 6 bolts lightly and wiggling crank back and forth wiggling the cover, still won't go.
I tightened the bolts up slightly to see if a push was needed to get started, taps with a mallet around to try get equal straight, but just tightens up the axle so can't spin the crank arm on left side. So I backed the bolts off. Tried again a few times wiggling pushing pulling from other side.
Next thought I had was I'll lubricate the polished axle where it goes into the cover, in case it's just dry not slipping without enough force from me being restrained, or its not square/round and needs force. I haven't gone the heavy mallet strikes approach yet.
Seems so simple, it's another reminder I should have left it alone, but curiosity got me.
On to the creative writing bonus. Reminds me of pulling a scientific calculator apart as a kid, all the buttons spilt out, and I found they don't have a match on the shroud, and it was not one that displayed the function. Reverse learning unknown mathematics was way beyond my education/anility/mental fortitude. Its probably still in the same drawer in pieces 25 years later.
tommie
10 W
A photo may help..
tomjasz
1 GW
EASY! If the axel moved out an inch or so the part with the freewheel pawls came out of the body. You need to pull the entire assembly out and remove the part from the axle and replace the freewheel mechanism first, then replace the axel and gear.
tomjasz
1 GW
see the center part? Take the axle all the way out. Pull the pictured center part off and place in back into the internally geared part on the right. Then replace the axle component, and then put the whole assembly into the motor housing. Make sense?
deepfraught
100 W
Thanks, makes sense.
For future anyone like me: No, you can't take only the drive side cover off and bolt it straight back on (edit, unless you're lucky and have a svelt touch). See above instruction
For future anyone like me: No, you can't take only the drive side cover off and bolt it straight back on (edit, unless you're lucky and have a svelt touch). See above instruction
tomjasz
1 GW
It's so easy. Much easier to work on than a BBS02.
deepfraught
100 W
Anyone familiar with freewheel pawls and whether these ones on the drive side pedal axle freewheel can be replaced with something common with ordinary bicycles?
I've got one pawl functioning, two broken from my earlier failed assembly that has torqued up on two of the pawls and split them
May be a good thing to have spare anyway if doing a 1000km off grid ride.
I've got one pawl functioning, two broken from my earlier failed assembly that has torqued up on two of the pawls and split them
May be a good thing to have spare anyway if doing a 1000km off grid ride.
tomjasz
1 GW
Looks like a part that might be good to have in the kit. I opened both mine up immediately and re-lubed. Definitely worth the time.
deepfraught
100 W
Thanks sather, I need some of those. I've had Luna's new 30T chain wheel in mind as well, so will see what else is useful but with Rohloff XL the stock chain line is almost perfect.
Considering I haven't even turned a wheel in anger and already broken it, I'll consider it a lesson worth learning for spares holding.
It doesn't make me feel good stomping on the pedals with just those 3 pawls keeping all my force if out of power with a heavy bike up a hill, I guess the other lesson is don't run out of power or take the pedal only bike.
Definitely not the simple hunk of weight and power of a big direct drive, but then you don't pedal them at all it's really not a tidy package like the BBS... can't have all the cake and eat it all the time
Considering I haven't even turned a wheel in anger and already broken it, I'll consider it a lesson worth learning for spares holding.
It doesn't make me feel good stomping on the pedals with just those 3 pawls keeping all my force if out of power with a heavy bike up a hill, I guess the other lesson is don't run out of power or take the pedal only bike.
Definitely not the simple hunk of weight and power of a big direct drive, but then you don't pedal them at all it's really not a tidy package like the BBS... can't have all the cake and eat it all the time
Lurkin
100 kW
If you think about it, your transferring that power to a rear hub.
Which also usually has three pawls in its as well... nothing wrong with that. Well tried and tested method.
Which also usually has three pawls in its as well... nothing wrong with that. Well tried and tested method.
tomjasz
1 GW
Check out Bruno on youtube. Or electric fat bike blog
deepfraught
100 W
I got my replacement pedal freewheel from Lunacycle, and I added a BB spacer kit while paying the freight, as I used a regular BB spacer to install the motor, the variety of sizes are nice in the spares.
Lesson learnt with the assembly freewheel pawls, the mistake has added 10% to my motor price before I've turned a wheel in anger. Quickly forgotten as I enjoyed summer pedal only recreational cycling so I keep putting off the BBSHD. Change of weather and tides has brought back some tinkering time
Lesson learnt with the assembly freewheel pawls, the mistake has added 10% to my motor price before I've turned a wheel in anger. Quickly forgotten as I enjoyed summer pedal only recreational cycling so I keep putting off the BBSHD. Change of weather and tides has brought back some tinkering time
tomjasz
1 GW
I noted this report from Lunacycles. A customers motor was returned after having a controller changeout. It appeared the customer had torn the gasket and as a result water got in and damaged the motor. Perhaps controller changes or repairs should either include a new gasket or a better gasket material could be used. I'm changing out a controller to a Gearsensor version and am thinking I'd use a silicon based gasket replacement material from my cage days (VW air-cooled)
Here's the video of the tear down and comments.
https://youtu.be/L69wDydc6V0
Here's the video of the tear down and comments.
https://youtu.be/L69wDydc6V0
