And methods the controller was fine at first but when I fixed the phase wire I tried it again and I should have give up but was playing with it to much till it quit, so it must have melted the fets then. So realy I could have saved the controller but thats not my style! :wink:
Instant Start 18 fet Infineon Boards are here...
- Thread starter methods
- Start date
I finally got the CA calibrated and went for a test ride.
Here's the result.
I reduced the current limit after fitting the new shunt. Maybe I'll turn it back up again to what it was and see how many amps I've been pulling for the last few weeks
Here's the result.
I reduced the current limit after fitting the new shunt. Maybe I'll turn it back up again to what it was and see how many amps I've been pulling for the last few weeks
methods
1 GW
How did you calibrate the shunt?
That peak of 100A... I would guess that is from a 50A current limit?
-methods
That peak of 100A... I would guess that is from a 50A current limit?
-methods
It's set to 35/88 at the moment. Definately more limited than I've been running it for the last few weeks.
I pushed 9 amps in through the gnd and out of one of the phase wires. After adjustment it agreed with my multimeter to one decimal place.
Think it ended up as 308 uOHMs.
I pushed 9 amps in through the gnd and out of one of the phase wires. After adjustment it agreed with my multimeter to one decimal place.
Think it ended up as 308 uOHMs.
methods
1 GW
Sounds perfect!
Just what I would expect to see if you ran a 250uOhm shunt after removing the stock shunt
On my new controllers I have been leaving the stock shunt in parallel and it puts me around 220uOhms
Nice being able to calibrate it form the outside eh :wink:
Be sure to let us know what you find after you crank it back up.
I am interested to hear about it.
-methods
Just what I would expect to see if you ran a 250uOhm shunt after removing the stock shunt
On my new controllers I have been leaving the stock shunt in parallel and it puts me around 220uOhms
Nice being able to calibrate it form the outside eh :wink:
Be sure to let us know what you find after you crank it back up.
I am interested to hear about it.
-methods
I'll try to get some more results later. It's very wet and slippery on the roads here at the moment so I haven't really pushed it hard yet.
I'd be interested to know if you've done any experimenting with lower phase current settings. If I crank the current up and keep the same ratio (2.3) then it becomes too aggressive when pulling away.
I'd be interested to know if you've done any experimenting with lower phase current settings. If I crank the current up and keep the same ratio (2.3) then it becomes too aggressive when pulling away.
methods
1 GW
It is fairly predictable.
Your phase currents will have an inversely proportional relationship to your RPM
If you set the Phase currents lower you will notice that the bike takes off slower (with a DC current below your rated DC current) then as the RPM's get up you will feel more and more power come on. It is actually a very exhilarating effect... You apply full throttle, take off kind of slow, ... you get comfortable - then the power starts to really come on. Just like turbo.
Turning up the phase currents in relationship to the DC current will just allow you to have a more violent launch. It will be wasteful and unnerving - just how I like it
If you want to have a "snap" throttle this is the way to go.
Like Pat said in the double burnout thread - dont be scared to experiment. I only told people to keep the ratio the same so as that they would not end up chasing their tails. Phase current limits can really throw you for a loop when you are troubleshooting if you dont understand the relationship to RPM.
-methods
Your phase currents will have an inversely proportional relationship to your RPM
If you set the Phase currents lower you will notice that the bike takes off slower (with a DC current below your rated DC current) then as the RPM's get up you will feel more and more power come on. It is actually a very exhilarating effect... You apply full throttle, take off kind of slow, ... you get comfortable - then the power starts to really come on. Just like turbo.
Turning up the phase currents in relationship to the DC current will just allow you to have a more violent launch. It will be wasteful and unnerving - just how I like it
If you want to have a "snap" throttle this is the way to go.Like Pat said in the double burnout thread - dont be scared to experiment. I only told people to keep the ratio the same so as that they would not end up chasing their tails. Phase current limits can really throw you for a loop when you are troubleshooting if you dont understand the relationship to RPM.
-methods
Wasteful and unnerving? With nearly 300 pounds of combined bike and battery weight the one time I turned the phase current up too high ( by programming it as an EB206 ) I almost broke my shoulder 
I couldn't sleep on that side for three days.
What I really need is a setting that allows me to pull away smoothly ( on a 16 inch tyre) but still have the hill climbing, car overtaking, insane torque that I've got used to over the last few weeks.
I couldn't sleep on that side for three days.What I really need is a setting that allows me to pull away smoothly ( on a 16 inch tyre) but still have the hill climbing, car overtaking, insane torque that I've got used to over the last few weeks.
methods
1 GW
For that all you need is better throttle resolution.
You arent using a thumb throttle are you? those things are hazardous.
I run all my bikes at 100V 100A and I can take off like a stick of budda... Creep at like 1/2mph...
What throttle are you using?
Lowering the phase current will help with a less violent start but it could burn you if you have to take off from a dead stop on a hill so dont go too low with it.
If you hook up a switch you can access the L/M/H functionality and use that to give you more throttle resolution off the line.
Setting to 50% will effectively double your resolution.
That may just be the ticket. Just dont make the mistake of flipping the switch from L to H with the throttle on full blast
That will put you on your ass....
SO..... Lets hear more about this bruised up shoulder
-methods
You arent using a thumb throttle are you? those things are hazardous.
I run all my bikes at 100V 100A and I can take off like a stick of budda... Creep at like 1/2mph...
What throttle are you using?
Lowering the phase current will help with a less violent start but it could burn you if you have to take off from a dead stop on a hill so dont go too low with it.
If you hook up a switch you can access the L/M/H functionality and use that to give you more throttle resolution off the line.
Setting to 50% will effectively double your resolution.
That may just be the ticket. Just dont make the mistake of flipping the switch from L to H with the throttle on full blast
That will put you on your ass....
SO..... Lets hear more about this bruised up shoulder
-methods
liveforphysics
100 TW
Arlo1 said:
I <3 your mount.
Perhaps the strongest bicycle hub motor mount ever done.
methods
1 GW
Another dude did something similar to that about a year ago.
3 letter name... Slipping my mind.
I had him marked as a "friend" but kept accidentally CC'ing him on PM's so I deleted all my friends
He had an avatar that resembled superman...
D something
DHL?
-methods
3 letter name... Slipping my mind.
I had him marked as a "friend" but kept accidentally CC'ing him on PM's so I deleted all my friends
He had an avatar that resembled superman...
D something
DHL?
-methods
Yup Luke its alot better but I still have to tighten them every couple rides.
So I swaped out all three fets (they all blew) fixed four bad hall conections and Tested it out and it seems good. I did find I have a problem programing it though I have always had problems with this so I think it maybe the baud rate in the computer other wise I will have to do some diging or maybe get on of my other computers to work to flash it right. When I say not taking a flash right it only programs all three settings to the middle one! The motor sounds smooth again it was sounding a little rough lately so I think one hall has had a loose wire for a little while. I will be seeing how the electric fans will work for me so far a 12v fan on 6s lipo realy rips!
So I swaped out all three fets (they all blew) fixed four bad hall conections and Tested it out and it seems good. I did find I have a problem programing it though I have always had problems with this so I think it maybe the baud rate in the computer other wise I will have to do some diging or maybe get on of my other computers to work to flash it right. When I say not taking a flash right it only programs all three settings to the middle one! The motor sounds smooth again it was sounding a little rough lately so I think one hall has had a loose wire for a little while. I will be seeing how the electric fans will work for me so far a 12v fan on 6s lipo realy rips!
liveforphysics
100 TW
Arlo1 said:Yup Luke its alot better but I still have to tighten them every couple rides.
So I swaped out all three fets (they all blew) fixed four bad hall conections and Tested it out and it seems good. I did find I have a problem programing it though I have always had problems with this so I think it maybe the baud rate in the computer other wise I will have to do some diging or maybe get on of my other computers to work to flash it right. When I say not taking a flash right it only programs all three settings to the middle one! The motor sounds smooth again it was sounding a little rough lately so I think one hall has had a loose wire for a little while. I will be seeing how the electric fans will work for me so far a 12v fan on 6s lipo realy rips!
You're the man Arlo! Good work!
JCG
tostino
10 kW
JCG was someone who built a supercap bike. I don't really know what he was talking about though.
methods
1 GW
Arlo1 said:Yup Luke its alot better but I still have to tighten them every couple rides.
So I swaped out all three fets (they all blew) fixed four bad hall conections and Tested it out and it seems good. I did find I have a problem programing it though I have always had problems with this so I think it maybe the baud rate in the computer other wise I will have to do some diging or maybe get on of my other computers to work to flash it right. When I say not taking a flash right it only programs all three settings to the middle one! The motor sounds smooth again it was sounding a little rough lately so I think one hall has had a loose wire for a little while. I will be seeing how the electric fans will work for me so far a 12v fan on 6s lipo realy rips!
I have now seen this same thing
I had a 6 fet say that it flashed when it didnt
I solved the problem by replacing the 100 ohm inrush resistor with a 50 ohm
Here is your solution - dont laugh:
When you program your controller it is important that you disconnect ALL of the accessories
The throttle, ebrake, cruise control, etc.
Anything that is drawing off of the 5V buss
What is happening is that you are drawing too much current from the USB -TTL converter and you are not getting enough voltage to get a proper flash
The check-sum is right but the values are not sticking.
Do this and you will see an improvement in reliability.
-methods
methods
1 GW
Sup dog?
Know what?
My motor had the exact same failure as yours this time!
Just two phase wires cut into the stator
Come to think of it... this is the second or third time
Anyhow - got it back together and I am going on a ride in 20 minutes !!!
BIG DOG HAS WHEELS AGAIN!
-methods
Thats great to hear methods!
So so the programing problem I figured it out. I wanted to leave the conector on the bord for the usb so I could do quicker flashes with out taking the case off. But I found when I have the connector on the bord it looses the third speed setting and sometimes the second as well!
I do know what you meen about inconsistancy in flashes! Sometimes it has insane torque sometimes is just absolutly retarded through you on your ass torque and its not all engine heat! Seems sometimes when I flash it its mote powerfull then others but this usb thing is very likely related!
The engine sounds well but I did get the one or both side covers off a bit the hole hub spins out of alignment has anyone seen timing marks for the x5? It seems there is a sweet spot where it needs to be but I have to spinn the cover to find it once I do I will index mark it this time for sure!
So so the programing problem I figured it out. I wanted to leave the conector on the bord for the usb so I could do quicker flashes with out taking the case off. But I found when I have the connector on the bord it looses the third speed setting and sometimes the second as well!
I do know what you meen about inconsistancy in flashes! Sometimes it has insane torque sometimes is just absolutly retarded through you on your ass torque and its not all engine heat! Seems sometimes when I flash it its mote powerfull then others but this usb thing is very likely related!
The engine sounds well but I did get the one or both side covers off a bit the hole hub spins out of alignment has anyone seen timing marks for the x5? It seems there is a sweet spot where it needs to be but I have to spinn the cover to find it once I do I will index mark it this time for sure!
methods
1 GW
The chip multiplexes the programming input out to other tasks.
That is why it only programs on power up.
I designed it the way I did for a reason :wink:
Just bring out the 4 pin cable like I showed in the tutorial
Make a mating 4 pin connector
When you want to program - poke it.
Now - if you are having as much trouble as you are programming something is wrong.
I have only once had trouble programming and that was with a one-off programmer with a one-off 6 fet.
Never had an 18 fet not program....
I would sort that issue.
-methods
That is why it only programs on power up.
I designed it the way I did for a reason :wink:
Just bring out the 4 pin cable like I showed in the tutorial
Make a mating 4 pin connector
When you want to program - poke it.
Now - if you are having as much trouble as you are programming something is wrong.
I have only once had trouble programming and that was with a one-off programmer with a one-off 6 fet.
Never had an 18 fet not program....
I would sort that issue.
-methods
Yeh I think I have everthing done like its supose to be So.... I found that when I have the usb conected to the bord without it connected to the computer speed setting 3 would just be the same as speed setting 2 till I cut the white wire on the usb wires coming out of the bord. Then I found speed setting 3 was where I programed it but speed setting 1 was now the same as speed setting 2 then I cut the yellow wire and now it worked corectly. So I cut all the wires for the usb cable out side the bord and I will put a conector there so I can use it to program it without removing the case.
So methods does this meen you are on a x5 again?
Time to get back to cooling things down!
So methods does this meen you are on a x5 again?
Time to get back to cooling things down!
methods
1 GW
No....
This means that I took my first ride tonight on an X5 and when I got all the way down town (in the dark) the motor blew again.
This time blue lighting shot out of the holes
I wish someone had seen it
Whatever - I will fix it again.
Anyway, here are some shots of the Electric Revolution!
-methods
This means that I took my first ride tonight on an X5 and when I got all the way down town (in the dark) the motor blew again.
This time blue lighting shot out of the holes
I wish someone had seen it
Whatever - I will fix it again.
Anyway, here are some shots of the Electric Revolution!
-methods
Attachments
I wise man once told me " don't rush it take your time do a good job" :lol:
But yup those are some sweet pics. Telling you man there is alot of room inside this for some fans did some tests tonight! See you in the air cooling x5 thread! lol
But yup those are some sweet pics. Telling you man there is alot of room inside this for some fans did some tests tonight! See you in the air cooling x5 thread! lol
methods
1 GW
I just ordered a butt-load of mill spec capacitors
Military Specification temperature range
Low ESR
Quality brand name
100V 1000uF
100V 470uF
100V 100uF
100V 10uF
Everything you need to pimp out a controller.
I did mostly quantities of 100 to get a better price but they only had 47 of the low ESR 1000uF buggers.
I will offer them up in the for-sale section
Perhaps I will bundle them up into mod kits with IRFB 4110's, Precision Shunts, and Power resistors.
A little DIY "mod kit"
-methods
Military Specification temperature range
Low ESR
Quality brand name
100V 1000uF
100V 470uF
100V 100uF
100V 10uF
Everything you need to pimp out a controller.
I did mostly quantities of 100 to get a better price but they only had 47 of the low ESR 1000uF buggers.
I will offer them up in the for-sale section
Perhaps I will bundle them up into mod kits with IRFB 4110's, Precision Shunts, and Power resistors.
A little DIY "mod kit"
-methods
