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KB ebike donor frame

E-HP

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Nov 1, 2018
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Lately when I see questions coming up frequently, I've been clicking on the KB to see if it has responsive info. If it's not there, I look to see if there's a stub for the subject. Questions come up regularly about choosing a donor bike or frame for an ebike project. Since I didn't see a stub in the KB for this, I'm going to try to cobble together enough information to create an entry on the subject. I'm going to start with frame materials, listing some of the pros and cons, and then some stuff on frame geometry as if related to building an ebike, and any considerations.

I'd appreciate any input regarding this subject. The build thread subforum as been a good resource, but things like carbon fiber frame builds are a bit sparse, but there have been some successful builds using carbon frames, so even though I currently state "mid drive generally not recommended", I do think I noticed a successful mid drive carbon build, but not much insight into the long term durability, so I'm hoping some folks can speak to that based on experience. The threads are good since they demonstrate how the challenges along the was were addressed. Experience on things like the amount of flexing materials can withstand when chain stays are spread to accommodate a hub motors, etc., would also be helpful. The frame geometry section is meant to capture how it relates to ebike conversions, rather than personal preferences, comfort, etc.

Anyway, below is how I'm trying to gather material, while keeping it segregated to make it easier to post in the KB when complete. Thanks ahead of time for any input you can share.


Frame material:
Steel​
Pros:​
Cons:​
Motor: Suitable for hub drive or mid drive motors​
Aluminum​
Pros:​
Cons:​
Motor: Suitable for hub drive or mid drive motors​

Carbon Fiber​
Pros:​
Cons:​
Motor: Suitable for hub drive, mid drive generally not recommended​
Frame geometry:

Key considerations:​
Battery mounting/placement - Ideally a frame with an "open triangle" provide the greatest ease and flexibility from battery mounting. Because the battery is a heavy component, placement lower on the frame keeps the center of gravity lower, and affects handling less. Other locations include under the frame downtube, provided there is enough clearance if the bike uses a suspension fork and the mounting is secure (additional straps may be necessary since bottle cage mounts may no provide the necessary strength, etc.). Mounting on a rear rack is also an option, but even very strong racks can be subject to fatigue over time and fail, so should be regularly inspected.​
Hard Tail​
Pros:​
Cons:​
Full Suspension -​
Pros:​
Cons:​

ES Builds:
 
Frame material:
Steel
Pros:
Proven material, slightly more absorbent of road vibrations and shock, more forgiving of dents and scrapes, rear triangle can be safely widened more than aluminum or CF. Also can be repaired more easily and reliably. Steel frame shapes are generally more straightforward so usually easier to mount middrive motors.

Steel Cons:
Not as popular anymore, getting hard to find. Heavier than CF (not so important for an ebike).
 
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Aluminum Pros:
Popular, easy to find, can be strong with the right design and build quality.

Aluminum Cons:
Dents and scrapes can weaken the area considerably, difficult to repair correctly. Swoopy shapes (hydroformed?) can make for difficult mid drive mounting. Rear triangle cannot be widened as much as steel.
 
Carbon Fiber Pros:
Can be very light. Can be strong against certain directional forces and torsions if designed correctly. More absorbent of road shocks and vibrations.

Carbon Fiber Cons:
Expensive. Its lighter weight is not as important in an ebike application. Can fail catastrophically. Ebike conversion on a CF frame will almost certainly subject it to strong forces it was not designed for, greatly increasing risk of frame failure. Difficult to repair correctly. Spreading rear triangle not advised.
 
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Hard Tail Pros:
Good availability, usually more inexpensive. Main triangle is usually wide open. Less moving parts = greater reliability and less maintenance. Good ability to mount a strong rear rack.

Hard Tail Cons:
Lack of rear suspension more unstable at higher speeds.
 
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Full Suspension Pros:
Better stability and more comfortable at higher speeds. Downhill and cross-country models can be extremely robust, built with strong components, a solid platform for a conversion.

Full Suspension Cons:
Rear suspension may introduce more maintenance. More expensive. Main triangle available space is usually obstructed by rear suspension components. Depending on rear suspension design, might be difficult or impossible to spread rear triangle. Limited options for rear rack.
 
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It might be worth noting that mountain bikes with disc brake mounts didn't become popular until the 90's. There are three types of disc brake mounts: IS, post, and flat.
 
I feel like frame size is important, but mountain bike frames don't seem to have a standard way to measure them and it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and is completely different for road bikes and comfort bikes. Folding bikes seem to be one size fits all.

O.L.D. spacing has changed a lot over the years and it's important for choosing a frame for certain hub motors. Vertical vs horizontal drop outs can also be a consideration.

Front suspension forks should be avoided for front hub motor builds.
 
Proven material, slightly more absorbent of road vibrations and shock, more forgiving of dents and scrapes, rear triangle can be safely widened more than aluminum or CF. Also can be repaired more easily and reliably. Steel frame shapes are generally more straightforward so usually easier to mount middrive motors.


Not as popular anymore, getting hard to find. Heavier than CF (not so important for an ebike).
How are steel frame triangles widened? Does this frame have two triangles?
 
How are steel frame triangles widened? Does this frame have two triangles?
Traditionally called diamond frame, made up of two triangles.

The rear triangle is actually made up of the seat tube, chain stays, and seat stays.

frame-spacing-l.jpg


Spreading instructions here, under heading "Spreading the Frame:"
 
I feel like frame size is important, but mountain bike frames don't seem to have a standard way to measure them and it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and is completely different for road bikes and comfort bikes. Folding bikes seem to be one size fits all.

O.L.D. spacing has changed a lot over the years and it's important for choosing a frame for certain hub motors. Vertical vs horizontal drop outs can also be a consideration.

Front suspension forks should be avoided for front hub motor builds.
I think this type of information may be even more valuable. Insights we’ve developed looking for the right frame, including vintage. 90s mountain bike frames still had horizontal top tubes, so even a 17” hard tail frame had space for a huge battery. For 2000s and beyond, the sloped top tubes stole most of that space, so it’s more challenging to fit a long range battery requiring more measurements and planning. You need a 19” frame to get similar space. The hard case triangle pack in my 17” hard tail will just press fit into the triangle. I was lucky, since I thought I’d have 1/8” clearance all around.

We (I) have similar rules of thumb for full suspension frames, and a lot of those fall into a certain vintage as well. Since Craigslist here is packed with high quality used mountain bikes, I’m always looking. Im going to look back at my notes to see if there are things worth including.
 
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