Kelly KLS-S: Troubleshooting

[DasDouble]

I need some more power on my Kelly KLS-S Controller. How do I set it up? Anyone familiar with it?
Thanks in advice!

Cheers.

 

[eee291]

Set BRK_SW Per% to 100

 

[DasDouble]

Next question: The Kelly cuts off power when accelerating full throttle after 2-3 seconds from standing still. What to do with that?

Cheers + thanks.

 

[eee291]

Do you have to restart via the key switch or can you continue right after it cuts out?
From my experience, badly connected throttles and very saggy batteries can cause it to cut out.

I would also like to take a look at your settings, can you please post them here?
Also, tell us what battery you are using.

 

[DasDouble]

I can continue right after it cuts out. The throttle for sure won´t be a problem as it only cuts off the accelleration when I accellerate too hard . The battery is a Samsung 30q 12s5p battery.

Also the regen is still very week.
Vehicle

Control

Motor

Thank you for your help!!

 

[eee291]

If you need more regen then you need the more powerful Controller.

I can see something wrong with your settings, Throttle type should be set to 2 if you have a standard Hall throttle.
TPS dead low is a bit low, Try changing that to 20%.
I just want to rule out the settings at least.

I still think you should check the Connector and see if it's mated properly.
The same thing happened to me, the Motor would spin up without a load but on the road, it would cut out.
I also solder the pins after I crimp them to make sure I get good contact.


Do you have the Bluetooth module? You could monitor the Controller with your phone and see what error code pops up or look for any changes in the throttle position value under load.


You may also have to play a little with the TPS dead high settings:

(7)TPS High Err: Hall active pedal, if higher than the value, report the fault of TPS Type. Range:
80~100
As you may know, the output of hall throttle from Kelly is about from 0.86V to 4.2V.
Our controller will report 3.3 error code if the output of hall throttle is below 0.5V or above 4.5V
by default.
The controller will think the hall throttle is shorted or damaged if the output is beyond the range
from 0.5V to 4.5V.
You can adjust the threshold voltage below or above 0.5V. The controller will report the 3.3 code
to protect the system according to different types of hall throttle.
Because there are many different hall throttle suppliers in the world. The initial output cannot be
always in the range of 0.5V to 4.5V.
But it doesn't make any differences if you choose 0-5V or 3-wire pot for the throttle type. That is
to say, these two settings are only useful for hall active throttle or pedal when you chose throttle
type at 2.
As the same goes, it is valid to adjust the high threshold voltage above 4.5V or below 4.5V.
Usually, the Hall output voltage is 4.2V Max. If you adjust it to a lower value which is near 4.2V, it
may trigger the error code in a normal way.
(8)TPS Type: TPS Type, 1:0-5V 3-wire 0-5K pot,5K is normal,2K-20K can be used;2: Hall active
throttle or pedal. Range: 1~2

 

[DasDouble]

If you need more regen then you need the more powerful Controller.

That would be bad as the VESC from esk8.de (http://www.hellray.de/shop/#!/Electronics-&-ESC-made-in-Germany/c/15255004/offset=0&sort=normal) was made for 3kW also afaIk and still has a waaaaay better regen brake.

I can see something wrong with your settings, Throttle type should be set to 2 if you have a standard Hall throttle.
TPS dead low is a bit low, Try changing that to 20%.
I just want to rule out the settings at least.

It is indeed the Domingo Throttle so its a podi, not a hall throttle.

I still think you should check the Connector and see if it's mated properly.
The same thing happened to me, the Motor would spin up without a load but on the road, it would cut out.
I also solder the pins after I crimp them to make sure I get good contact.

Well you can ride the Kelly on the road without any problems but asa you accellerate with wot up to 90%, like just when the wheel is about to loose contact with the ground it cuts out the power - just like a wheely control :lol:

Do you have the Bluetooth module? You could monitor the Controller with your phone and see what error code pops up or look for any changes in the throttle position value under load.

It says error code 3,2

May
be
caused
by
some
transient
fault
condition
like
a
temporary
over-current,
momentarily
h
igh
or
low
battery
voltage
.
This
can
happen
during
normal
operation
.

 

[eee291]

I had that error too once or twice, I think it was when I changed the Torque and Amp settings to lower values. After I maxed the Amps and Torque settings it stopped. :?

Btw what Motor are you using?

I'm sorry I can't help more, I can diagnose things better in person and it always works out in the end.

 

[2WheelsMovesTheSoul]

I've got a KLS7230s and push it at the max ratings just about everyday. I've gone thru each menu and played with all the settings.

This whole cutting power after accelerating after 2-3 seconds then coming back on is either a saggy battery or the setup is wrong on the first "Vehicle" menu. My battery is 20s 14p and capable of the 120A @ 72v the KLS can pull. Your 12s 5p (5p is kinda small IMHO) might still be an issue but I think its actually reaching the max speed you have it set for, dropping current or speed/coasting then accelerating to that max speed and coasting again. Try the fix I show below and get back to us.

So this isn't exactly intuitive, but I see you are not using the "3 speed option".

Since you are not using the "3 speed", the ACTUAL speed adjustment is not "Max Fwd Speed %" as one might think. Instead, adjust the "MidSpeed Forw Speed" from 50 up to 100. For some reason the system uses the default "MidSpeed" 50 setting if you don't have a 3 speed switch. Probably has something to with ensuring a vehicle can still move even with a busted speed selector switch.

Also the regen is still very weak.

On this control page, go to BRK_AD Brk%: change from 50 to 75, test ride, if still not strong enough, continue to adjust up to 100 if needs be

Thank you for your help!!


Also might wanna change this

Accel Time: change from 5 to 1

 

[amberwolf]

For some reason the system uses the default "MidSpeed" 50 setting if you don't have a 3 speed switch. Probably has something to with ensuring a vehicle can still move even with a busted speed selector switch.

More likely it's because when the first "ebike" controllers started using a 3-speed switch, they used an on-off-on, (center-off). That means that speed setting 2 (the middle one) would be the default if no switch were connected.

It would've made more sense to have setting 1 be the default, but 3-position rocker / toggle switches dont' come in standard easily-available OTS versions with "off" (no connection) on one side, then two "on" positions in middle and the other side.

However, the type of switch they did use (and is still used today) is very very common and very very cheap.

So the availability of the switch itself is why most (maybe all) the three-speed switches on common brushless controllers default to the second setting if no switch is connected.

 

[Killer-B]

tying to gets answers about xt90 anti park connectors... do I need all the other crap Kelly sends with there controller . dode and breaker!! I got no room,.. wont an xt 90 due the same task essentially

 

[eee291]

You don't need the Diode if you don't use the Relay.

XT 90 failed on me after unplugging it a few times on a 72V Battery.
I would recommend the QS8S Connector:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/QS8-S-130A-Heavy-Duty-Anti-Spark-Battery-Connector-for-RC-model/263791357752?hash=item3d6b30af38:g:CxwAAOSwVxpbOdkF:rk:1f:0

 

[Merlin]

Next question: The Kelly cuts off power when accelerating full throttle after 2-3 seconds from standing still. What to do with that?

Cheers + thanks.

i have a vector here with kls7230 and i have exact the same problem.

gently riding no problem. accelerate harder a hard throttle cut.
changed throttles, same problem. thought it was bms. bypassed it.
disconnected CA, same problem.

the controller cuts the throttle while accelerate with load(street use)
bike lifted, no cutouts.

took me the whole saturday now and iam again pissed about that kelly crap

any ideas?
@ Double...its 2 months ago, did your fixed the problem?

 

[DasDouble]

Next question: The Kelly cuts off power when accelerating full throttle after 2-3 seconds from standing still. What to do with that?

Cheers + thanks.

i have a vector here with kls7230 and i have exact the same problem.

gently riding no problem. accelerate harder a hard throttle cut.
changed throttles, same problem. thought it was bms. bypassed it.
disconnected CA, same problem.

the controller cuts the throttle while accelerate with load(street use)
bike lifted, no cutouts.

took me the whole saturday now and iam again pissed about that kelly crap

any ideas?
@ Double...its 2 months ago, did your fixed the problem?

I have been working in my company with it and the guys from my team have just turned down the settings a bit ( I guess it was accelleration and the battery output ). But we were not able to completely solve the problem by its origin.

 

[2WheelsMovesTheSoul]

i have a vector here with kls7230 and i have exact the same problem.

gently riding no problem. accelerate harder a hard throttle cut.
changed throttles, same problem. thought it was bms. bypassed it.
disconnected CA, same problem.

the controller cuts the throttle while accelerate with load(street use)
bike lifted, no cutouts.

took me the whole saturday now and iam again pissed about that kelly crap

any ideas?
@ Double...its 2 months ago, did your fixed the problem?

Screen shot your settings on the configuration menus like DasDouble did and I'll try to help.

Sounds like you need to change your Mid Speed setting to 100% like DasDouble.

 

[Merlin]

speed wasnt a problem.
i havent a 3 speed switch so i had all to 100% allready.

for now it looks like it was the controller itself. wonder why this happend.
i got a replacement from ebike-parts.at (superb service as always)

what should i say. normal "autodetect" with expected "reset error".
Motor runs and no cutout yet @ 225 Battery amps.

all kellys i had before did way much more current as advertised. i expected 300A from this 300A controller.

@Double....what you can try to setup just to see if problem appears + what i got from fany:

setup battery and phase amps 1:2

40B + 80P
50B + 100P

if that works raise Battery amps in 5% steps until or maybe the cutout comes back.

 

[Torti]

I also have the problem with a KLS 6030s

look over here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=98865

 

[Torti]

Adjust motor poles

Pole pairs or poles ???

 

[agniusm]

Old thread but perhaps someone will know. I have 7030S. Fresh build. Went to a shop, out and its dead. No response to throttle. I get the error "Pedel error".
I cant access the blinker atm
I have hall throttle and it reads 46 dead and over 200 when fully engaged. I dont even know if it has something to do with throttle. I have brake sw and not variable.
I get 6 on brake Pedel as well.
Any input would be appreciated

 

[2WheelsMovesTheSoul]

I get the error "Pedel error".

What is Pedel Error ???
https://kellycontroller.com/wp-content/uploads/kls-s/KellyKLS-SUserManualV1.10.pdf

I don't see Pedel Error in the manual.

Do you mean "Throttle Error at Power-up" (2 red flash - wait - 4 red flash) ????

If yes, go to page 17

(7)TPS High Err: Hall active pedal, if higher than the value, report the fault of TPS Type. Range: 80~100

Our controller will report 3.3 error code if the output of hall throttle is below 0.5V or above 4.5V by default. The controller will think the hall throttle is shorted or damaged if the output is beyond the range from 0.5V to 4.5V. You can adjust the threshold voltage below or above 0.5V. The controller will report the 3.3 code to protect the system according to different types of hall throttle.

Then go to page 18

(9)TPSDeadLow: TPS Dead Zone Low. Range:5~40 factory default is 20%*5V=1.0V.
(10)TPSDeadHigh: TPSDeadZoneHigh. Range:60~95 factory default is 80%*5V=4.0V.

 

[agniusm]

I got it sorted for now and i dont know what i did to fix it. "Pedel error" is reported on pc or android app.
I could not find it either in pdf.
I have calculated the values of of the throttle output, 47 low 216 high. On russian video he says to divide by 2.55 and then add or subtract 6 for the error and 4 for the tps low and high.

 

[Torti]

Have a KLS 7030S, if I set the forward speed on z.b. location. Location. 80% is there a jerk at 100% is not that ???

 

[Xpid3r]

Hello everyone, I am bringing this post back from the dead...

I have a new build with a Mxus 3k turbo 4t and a KLS 7218 SW. The battery is a 14s9p on Samsung Q30 cells and a 100A BMS limited on 80A continuous discharge.

I am experiencing the 3-2 error code when pushing the throttle hard and I cannot seem to find any information online on how to fix it except getting a replacement controller, which is sadly not a possibility in my case...

Has anyone figured this one out?

 

[Xpid3r]

So, after a few days obsessed with the issue, reading and testing to no avail, as soon as I posted the question here I managed to solve the issue...

So for anyone out there looking for this same answer in the future, here is what I discovered:

The controller is rated for a 20s peak of 200A and a constant 80A. These ratings are for phase current, not battery output. The controller itself will lower voltage and increase amperage on the output as needed on lower speeds to increase torque.

In my setup I had both the maximum current and battery current to 100%. This meant 100% of the 200A on the phase output (which I want, since my motor can take it) but also 100% of the 200A as the input from the battery (which was giving me the issue since my BMS has a hardware cut off on 100A).

I figured this out by looking at the BMS via bluetooth and realizing that when the motor was cutting out, I was pulling 100A.

Thus I left the maximum current to 100% but lowered the battery current to 50%. This did not quite work because the controller seems to overshoot a little bit under high load. I lowered the battery to 45% and... profit.

My BMS is now peaking at about 95A output when I throttle from a stop without the annoying hiccup nor error 3-2 on the controller. Tested uphill from a stop without issues, the thing can really climb now like a beast!

Kelly should really explain this better in their documentation, but I hope this post can help other people in the future. I had to come to this conclusion by compiling broken and half- correct information from other people all over the internet as well as my own experimentation and trial and error!

 

[fechter]

Thanks for posting your results!