Klein Mantra Cyclone build - Going for PAIN!

I just went out and weighed the bike, me, and the bike+me. 194lbs for the bike+me+batteries+backpack with a few tools in it.
The large batt pack I plan to build will be just under 15lbs. I anticipate that will add another 11lbs for a total of 205lbs. That is insanely light for a mid-range powerful build, me thinks.

LewTwo said:
With your location and the mid drive motor you should not need much in the way of low gears. If you switch to an IGH rear hub your front derailleur and shifter problems go away .... not to mention a much cleaner look bike. I think the bigger problem may be where to mount the battery?
I don't believe there are any IGHs that will stand up to 3000-4000w, right? At least that is what I understood from my limited research.
If one does exist, I imagine it will cost as much or more than my entire build. LoL
As for looks, I don't honestly care that much. I have a personal rule I follow. 80/20. 80% function 20% looks. If making something "look good" hinders more that 20% of the function, I refuse to do it.
Pretty alone wont get you home. Then again, I've been ugly my whole life, so maybe that is my problem??

The battery will be a custom 18650 pack built with Panasonic cells pulled from a Tesla Model S. 18650s afford a lot of configurable options for size and shape. My intentions are to make it possible to hang from the body tube if needed, but I mostly intend to carry it in a backpack majority of the time.
 
The cyclone looks great on there! Awesome light and capable build forming up.

-Another throttle without the extra integrated buttons/controls will allow the thumb/index shifters much closer. A little grinding/smoothing/mods to my paddles got it all pretty tite with a 'currie' half twist and 3spd sw. From right: grip, throttle, brake, shifter, 3spd switch. The green thing is a kill switch but that got deleted after getting an ebrake hwbs.
currie.jpg
I recently got a full length twist cheapo (came with a chinese frame), and although the hall isn't potted I will really like it I think. It's even smaller OD, and you can cut and smooth the end to whatever length you want (1/2 twist, 1/3, 1/4 twist). I'll prob hot glue the hall.

You could just try a cheap one from ebay or whatever. The currie was like 20$ but I like the cheap one better so far. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-24-36-48v-Universal-Electric-Scooter-Twist-E-Bike-Throttle-Grip-Handlebar-za-/252209814461?hash=item3ab8e05bbd:g:DZ0AAOSw8-tWaDBb

- Yes, I wouldn't bother with a more heavy, costly, inefficient, and weak igh hub. But I also would not use the front deraileur if there was any compat issue with it. Mine clamped to shock mount tube in triangle, but still didn't keep it. 48 to 34/36 is plently low, unless maybe you're pedalling very steep and with no E.
You also might want to swap to a +50t for pedalling above 35mph that 48/11 gives, but I still wouldn't worry about a super low end ratio. When deleting my front D, I ended up adding a bash guard on each side of chainring, along with a pulley on returning chain to keep stuff snug.

- When hitting any bumps or giving good power, I'd at least throw some rubber between frame and kit up there. I also find those composite shims from lowes work good.

- Agree on the battery. If not in backpack, a top tube pannier is the way to go when not using double crown forks.

-Nice to see those jumppacks getting some use. They are literally perfect for high draw ebike testing imo.
More of us should have bought a couple when on sale, even if just to throw in the freezer for time-being.

I'm looking forward to your build coming together and what you end up doing with volts/amps and battery. There's def the potential to really get it cookin! If yours has narrow and light xc rims, you might want to upgrade at least to a pair of sun rhino's and heavier DH (or hookworm etc) tires and tubes. https://www.amazon.com/Rhyno-Wheel-Deore-9-Speed-Black/dp/B004B6M1A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467104225&sr=8-1&keywords=Sun+Rhyno+Lite+Set
 
UPDATE: Made a highpower wood battery yesterday. Charges to 62.7v (just grabbed some scrap I had laying around and threw it together)
Took it out for a ride, got up to 38.3mph. This was on stock mode on the controller. I will have to retest on mode 3. Think it will hit 41-ish.
Due to the design, I believe that there is a slight bottleneck with the amp draw. Not sure on that though. Can say I am really impressed with the capability of my previous battery of 3x Walmart EverStart jump packs. They only lack the Ah for range. I'd buy more, but I am not paying $40ea for them. $5ea was worth it for my 3units... :mrgreen:
IMG_20160629_024930238.jpg


nutspecial said:
The cyclone looks great on there! Awesome light and capable build forming up.

I'm looking forward to your build coming together and what you end up doing with volts/amps and battery. There's def the potential to really get it cookin! If yours has narrow and light xc rims, you might want to upgrade at least to a pair of sun rhino's and heavier DH (or hookworm etc) tires and tubes. https://www.amazon.com/Rhyno-Wheel-Deore-9-Speed-Black/dp/B004B6M1A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467104225&sr=8-1&keywords=Sun+Rhyno+Lite+Set
Thank you sir. Much appreciated!
I do plan on changing the wheels out. Don't know how soon I can though as money is really tight. Honestly could not afford this bike, e-kit, and the planned battery... but I have made some sacrifices to do so.
Ahhh, the things we do for love. :roll: :D

Those wheels you linked look a lot like the ones on my bike. They look squeeze brake compatible too?
Did your Mantra come with Bontrager Race 24/28 hole rims? I do not know if they are 1.75" wide, but it has to be close. The one thing that makes them irrelevant by today's standards is lack of disc brake mount. There are so many Bontrager wheels named Race. Makes finding info on these hard.
 
Another update...
I was going to wait a few days to let my knee recover. Curiosity and the itch to ride got to me again. Knee is never going to recover at this rate. ):

Just HAD TO KNOW the top speed of the new battery pack. I am happy to report, better than expected!
Screenshot_2016-06-29-17-41-35.png
This is still on the MTB knobies. Wonder if I can reach 45mph with slicks?

New pack is 3x Milwaukee 18v 4Ah batteries in series. 62.7v total. Used scrap to build the box, and ripped some brass pars out of some A/C contactors in my junk pile to make buss bars.
Yeah, the bars look rough. Liquid electrical does not like to stick to brass, even after sanding it. Still it works, and I don't care. This was just for testing and fun...
IMG_20160629_025049227.jpg
IMG_20160629_025727440.jpg
 
Pretty cool dude... cheers and congrats!!

Just like we predicted: low 40s for a 3 kW upright MTB eBike. Thats about as fast as it will go on 40 amps on flats with no headwind. You might be able to squeeze 45 out of it on 18S LiPo. I don't recommend running 40 mph, as the chain life and the chainring life will be measured in "few days" rather than "few months..."

I would think a 30 mph cruise should be easily attainable with the setup, thats what I did on my eBike for 2800 miles without much trouble. Bike still runs to this day, FYI.

G.
 
nutspecial said:
Oh my. If I call my bike anything it's 'please don't kill me' or some profane name when I survive my mistake. Other than that, I don't usually 'name' objects tho.

But some people do, so how bout 'kleinspeed' or 'death mantra' per brand specific- but if you're naming it, likely it will mean something only to you though. Like 'naughtspecial' or 'rageNR' ? :D

also I'm pretty dam sure I remember 42mph took less than 3kw to gain and sustain with 230lbs build and 2.3 knobbies :!:


View attachment 1
Very nice buy, you've seen what these are going for on ebay?
Damn, now you made me buy one of these. Unfortunately it will an ugly yellow not a pretty blue. But sure it will be visible.
 

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Well... I certainly did not predict what today had for me. I was expecting catastrophic failure, not this...
1-0701161818b.jpg1-0701161740.jpg
Apparently Moto(s) are pretty tough at 40mph. :lol: There are more scratches on it, just hard to get them all in a photo.
What happen was, I was on the main road book'n it. Got up to speed, came upon a large bump despite trying to hop the bike to lessen the blow, hit the bump with enough force to knock the handlebars loose.
Bars slung forward and launched my phone out of the holster a good 35ft in front of me. I didn't even see it, happened so fast. Skidded across the ground a ways. Thankfully it stayed in the median.
Hungry car tires to my left and to my right. :mrgreen:
And this boys and girls is why you do not ride with your "nice" phone. Use a cheaper pre-paid throwaway. They are cheap enough now days and very very capable.



Ecyclist said:
Damn, now you made me buy one of these. Unfortunately it will an ugly yellow not a pretty blue. But sure it will be visible.
They do have their quirks. High pivot point is an issue if riding in harsh off-road conditions. Especially highspeed downhill environments.
Just like anything, there is a learning curve. If you get one, spend some time riding it to get familiar before installing an e-kit. I put around 150miles on mine the week and a half prior to prepare my reflexes.

Also, I would not go for the one in the picture you posted unless you plan on modifying it. Look at the rear swing arm on the yellow one, then look at my blue one.
The older style swing arms cracked on a lot of riders right were the rear support meets the pivot point on the toptube/crosstube.
Have a look at what Nutspecial and Izeman did on their builds.
Still worth it if you get it for cheap and do not plan on riding it fast. All American made with pretty decent components.
 
I use this mount for my phone on my bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Tackform%C2%AE-Universal-INCLUDED-SMARTPHONE/dp/B00OQJ5VPK

Works great and the rubber bands hold the phone in even under the most extreme conditions. Use it on my trail bike sometimes and even off jumps and bumps the phone stays put. I have a big expensive phone too, Moto Nexus 6.
 
Phife said:
I use this mount for my phone on my bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Tackform%C2%AE-Universal-INCLUDED-SMARTPHONE/dp/B00OQJ5VPK

Works great and the rubber bands hold the phone in even under the most extreme conditions. Use it on my trail bike sometimes and even off jumps and bumps the phone stays put. I have a big expensive phone too, Moto Nexus 6.
Good post phife. I believe I've looked at that one before. Good if you are using a phone you would rather stay ON your bike. LoL
That mount actually costs more than my phone did. So I am not crying over my Moto at all. However, scratches and scuffs really get under my skin. Oh well... keep tellin my self it was cheap.

BTW, you guys can get free service on these too. Pay a small fee upfront to activate, stick to the rules, never pay for it again. And I am NOT talking about tax payer subsidized services.
 
Another quick update:

I should have done this from the beginning, but I was too excited to get the bike up and running.
Although I tried to be easy on the throttle, this is one torquey beast. This in conjunction with the overly touch throttle is a recipe for disaster.

After looking at the stock mounting solution, I came to the conclusion that the plate mod on the end was the easiest/best solution. It just makes sense from a mechanical perspective.
I heard about RoboCam's plate mod (he sells them?), but I had not actually seen what it looked like till this morning.
Yesterday, I decided to build an adapter plate. Found a good piece of scrap steel and started to hack away.
For those interested in doing this mod, I suggest you look up RoboCam's design and instructions. Aluminum is much easier to work than steel. I just felt like I would prefer steel over AL.

For your viewing pleasure-----------------
IMG_20160703_014512924.jpgIMG_20160703_014817813.jpgIMG_20160703_014911228.jpgIMG_20160703_032127346.jpgIMG_20160703_034817091.jpgEDIT: Ooops, forgot to mention. Socket cap screw hits the pedal here (pic above). I will have to get a low profile hex head bolt to clear it. That or grind on the pedal arm a bit (which I prefer to not do).

It was not terribly difficult, just time consuming. Aluminum could be cut and finished in 1/3 the time.
This was completely built using my Ryobi 18v angle grinder and a piece of sandpaper. I did rough the cuts with my sawzall to knock out the large chunks, else it would have taken 3 days to grind away at.
Hardest part is getting your hole alignments correct. Take your time, go slow, get it right the 1st time.

From the few days I had rode the bike around town before, my original stock bracket was bent. It flexes more than you realize. Was no big deal, I bent it back before starting to make the support.
What I can tell you is, the bike has got a LOT more punch now. The stock motor plate was robbing a good amount of power when it flexed under acceleration.
Now that the support is on there, you best be HOLDING ON TO THE HANDLEBARS. And I mean a clamp-like death grip, else the bike WILL leave without you.
Ran it around the yard this morning for almost an hour. Still using the 3x EverStart packs at 37v. This machine will eat souls once I get 84v on board... YIKES!
 
Guys, need some help.

So took my bike over to 2 LBS today. The fork is blown. Not bad, but is just going to keep leaking. Does not seem there are any rebuild kits available... :cry:
Wanted to buy a good DH fork, but just could not afford it right now. Still, I need to be on the lookout.
I was told not to go with a longer travel. Might cause issues with the headtube. I agree to an extent, but I feel this bike design is robust enough to handle a 20-40mm longer fork.
I currently have an 80mm, but would like to go with a 120mm. I understand that it will change the headtube angle, and affect response. I am ok with that. I'd rather the front be a little higher anyways.

Does anyone have recommendations?

Also need to start looking into better rims. I plan on running the Maxxis Hookworms. Guess they only come in 2.5in.
I've seen a lot of people run these tires on wide rims. Recommendations on those? What types of tubes would you run in one, or would tubeless be best?

I'd like to keep cost low, but I want some decent equipment. May not buy right away, but I intend to keep an eye out for a deal.
 
Keep in mind that a longer lever will put a lot more stress on the headtube. You should be able to get away with a 120 though. If it feels too tall up front you can run more sag to lower it, it will make it more supple too.
 
I agree with that. Imo just balance choice with the bike type. Xc bike, xc suspension, for the most part. A dbl crown is such overkill, besides often adding ~ 4" to an 80mm ride height. Try to use d/o-to-crown measurements to compare when getting into some of the long travel forks.

I ran an old manitu with elastamer and cartridge damping until just last year when it disintegrated.
Replaced with a suntour xcr and am very happy with it for the price, provided it lasts a long time. I specifically wanted a coil with decent damp/rebound/lockout adjust and got it for under 100$. It's just 100mm, but nearly an inch more travel than before is still nice. I tried a cheapie 120mm air fork, but didn't like it off-the-bat (didn't feel plush and lacked adustments) so stuck with a coil.

These bikes have fairly steep rake, so an extra inch should actually be beneficial. Even 120mm forks should be very good, and I've been watching for a decent used 120mm with standard 1 1/8 steerer and standard dropouts on ebay. But in the meantime, I can't beat the suntour xcr with a stick!
 
Hey guys, thanks a lot. Suggestions much appreciated!
E-geezer said:
Keep in mind that a longer lever will put a lot more stress on the headtube. You should be able to get away with a 120 though. If it feels too tall up front you can run more sag to lower it, it will make it more supple too.
nutspecial said:
I tried a cheapie 120mm air fork, but didn't like it off-the-bat (didn't feel plush and lacked adustments) so stuck with a coil.

These bikes have fairly steep rake, so an extra inch should actually be beneficial. Even 120mm forks should be very good, and I've been watching for a decent used 120mm with standard 1 1/8 steerer and standard dropouts on ebay. But in the meantime, I can't beat the suntour xcr with a stick!
On the 120mm fork, how did you like the angle? I find myself having to lean forward really far to grip the handlebars. And to get correct length to the pedals requires you to jack the seat up super high. Something like 3-4in above the bars. Looks retarded and rides even worse. So I resort to lowering the seat to less than optimal height to make the ride a bit more acceptable.
I think having the entire front higher, and bars closer, would facilitate a much nicer ride.


A kind E-S member PMed me a link to ebay for some Sun Rhyno Lite XL wheels. Those were used, which I am afraid to chance considering unknown condition and speeds at hand.
However on that ebay item page, a link to another set of new Sun wheels was displayed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sun-Rhyno-Lite-XL-26-Mountain-Bike-Wheelset-Shimano-32h-Disc-Hubs-or-rim-Brake-/331898890470?hash=item4d46b728e6:g:ddAAAOSwgY9XeFWT
$120 for both front and rear NEW. Is that a good option and good price?
They do say M435 Center Lock Disc brake, which I am new to. My understanding is that it is just a difference of the style of installed rotor.
 
Hey how's it goin?
On the 120mm fork, how did you like the angle?

I'm sorry I missed your question. The angle was better. I've been messin with the geometry alot though, with urt extension and longer rear shock. I'm currently running a 120mm air, and the longest dnm air and I like them alot. BB is @ about 15", so seat definitely stays lower than is optimal for full pedal stroke. The extra squish is also noticably less favorable for technical turns around and over trees and rocks, but overall I am liking it better for myself and xc frame over rougher faster stuff. Ya gotta pick your priorities. The headtube with all that is around 66deg I think.

I also finally upgraded to some formula c1 hydros (100$ w/discs), and they are so awesome compared to the 70$ bb5 mech I had previously. I can skid and do wheel stands again!

I hope you're getting in some great riding- this is a great season.
 
Update: I finally got a chance to test the bikes power output. Very very close to my calculations.
I meant to post this a while back. Here is a picture of the figures I came up with around 2 months ago, mostly using guesstimate values based on how I expected the bike was performing thus far.
Bike Speed Calculations.jpg

Sorry, I know it is a bit messy(technically napkin math). The notable numbers are on the far right. Wattage needed at different speeds.

Here is the interesting bit... I had a chance finally to give my bike a good test run.
Running 40MPH I showed a peak reading of 41.1A @ 51V. That is ~2,096 Watts. Only 56W higher than my calculation for 40MPH. There could be some margin of error there.
Trying to ride one handed @ 40 is not the best idea. I was attempting to twist the throttle and hold on with my right hand, hold my meter in the other hand, press the button on the meter to turn the backlight on, glance down at the meter for a few milliseconds at a time, and check my speed while maintaining balance. Yes, I had to do this at night. There will be more tests to come, but I needed a guesstimate baseline to go by for figuring out what direction to take with completing the build.
 
RageNR said:
There are my 3 Walmart EverStart car jumper packs on the bottom right. They each have a 3s 11.1v 4,000mAh Lipo inside. EverStart claims a 400A capability. B.S. I'd say 200A max on Peak.
They cost me $5 each. Not really too worried about them.

That's killer for $5 a pop. Was that a clearance deal or regular price? On the Walmart website, I only see 12,000mAh one for $36.
 
StinkyGoalieGuy said:
That's killer for $5 a pop. Was that a clearance deal or regular price? On the Walmart website, I only see 12,000mAh one for $36.
Yeah, they were clearance from Christmas of 2015. A seasonal item Wally was trying to rip people $45 for. Didn't sell quite as many as they had hoped. LoL
At most, they were worth $10-15 tops. They had absolutely NO WARRANTY, and the manufacturer printed on the item and package claims to have no idea what they are. Spoke to several people at that company, no one had any idea how/why Wally was selling them under their name...
:shock: it was a wow moment for me.

I heard about them too late after they started to clearance them. This city is really bad about resellers going out and wiping the floor of clearance items at any/every chain store. If I had known about them sooner, I'd have got more. That would have been the packs I used to build my ebike battery on the cheap.
Can win them all, I suppose.
:roll:
 
RageNR said:
While I am still sorting out the details of my parts, here are a few more pics of the new girl. :)
View attachment 9

My first thought, not knowing it was a folding bicycle, was you could take that top bar pin out and "fold" it like I did my regular full suspension bicycle.


https://www.pinkbike.com/news/1996-klein-mantra-pro-now-that-was-a-bike.html

The Mantra rode a whole lot better on paper than it did on dirt. True, it scaled climbs like a mofo. It even boasted good traction when you hunkered down on the seat and muscled your way up hills. It was way ahead of the competition on that score.

But on descents? Oh, dear Lord…. It was as if the bike had been dreamed up, designed and built on top of desecrated Indian burial grounds. The Mantra was possessed of an unholy grudge against anyone brave or dumb enough to climb aboard. Don’t get me wrong—I’m not suggesting the Mantra Pro was a “bad” bike on the downhills. I’m telling you it was an evil bike. There’s a difference.

For starters, there was the whole URT thing. The problem with a bike that “locks” its suspension when you ride out of the saddle is that you ride out of the saddle whenever you are going downhill. In other words, when you wanted the rear suspension to act like a rear suspension, it was off taking a lunch break somewhere while you were getting your teeth rattled out of your head. It was a shit idea.

Klein Mantra Vintage Bikes
One place where the Klein Mantra truly excelled? In Klein catalogs.
But that’s not the bad part. Not only did the Mantra sport a fiendish auto-firming rear suspension, the bike also had a tendency to simply buck you off the front of it. Hit the front brake at high speeds and the front end (with its whopping three inches/75 millimeters of travel) would dive, the swing arm would hinge forwards, completely extending the rear shock, which radically reduced the wheelbase and created the steepest possible head angle at the absolute worst possible moment... It was hard to fully appreciate all of this, of course, because you were now busy flying over the handlebars. There was no shortage of f*ckery afoot.

I’ve lost count of the number of outstanding riders—guys who raced downhill at the semi-pro and professional level—who were unceremoniously flung from the stink-bugging bike. It was as if every Mantra bitterly resented being ridden and was merely biding its time before it drew first blood. The first time I piloted a Mantra, I was floored by how well it ate those uphill miles. It was 1998, The Mantra was an undeniably gorgeous bike. Moreover, the rear tire felt as if it was glued to the fireroad climb.

Then we dropped down this trail we called Cheating Death. Cheating Death plummeted straight down the side of Sullivan Canyon and it was so steep that our V-brakes would heat the rims to blistering temperatures and we'd occasionally blow out the sidewalls on our tires. It was a treacherous, heart-in-your-throat kind of descent. And I’d cleaned it every time I rode it. On hardtails. On that first descent aboard the Mantra, however, I was bucked off the bike no less than three times before I got halfway down. My co-workers were grinning evilly as they waited for me. Getting tricked into riding the Mantra was a kind of rite of passage at the magazine—a hazing ritual akin to waking up and finding that one of your "friends" has Super Glued your hand to your crotch.

In the years that followed, I did my best to steer clear of every Mantra that crossed my path, but the bike would rear its brutish head at damn near every Trek press camp (Trek owned Klein). During those press launches each editor would try his best to avoid his turn on the thing, clambering atop any dreadful Gary Fisher Level Betty or Trek Y-Bike in sight. As in any game of Russian Roulette, however, there comes a point when you find yourself pointing the barrel of a gun at your temple, knowing full well that there's a bullet in the chamber with your name on it. At times like that, you just prayed you wouldn’t break a body part that couldn’t be mended.

These were the dark days for Trek, when they were an absolute powerhouse in road cycling, but were developing plenty of dirt models that were woefully behind the eight ball. Oh, sure, the Mantra was updated over its six-year lifespan. It’s not as if Klein and its parent company weren’t trying to make it a better bike.

That MCU-spring was quickly replaced with various coil and air-sprung shocks. Less expensive options floated out, as did sexier carbon versions, and in an array of dazzling paintjobs, because no one, to this day, offers bikes with better finishes than those old Kleins. But, it was all just so much lipstick on a pig. The basic, bucking bronco design never changed.
Klein Mantra Pro Carbon
You could make the Mantra Pro out of carbon, but you couldn't actually make it a good bike.

Klein retired the Mantra after the 2001 season, replacing it with the Adept; an ultra-light, Klein-flavored version of Gary Fisher’s Sugar design. The Adept had less travel than its predecessor, but didn’t hate the mountain bikers piloting it, so it was a monumental improvement. Soon after, Klein offered the Palomino—a Klein-badged version of the Maverick ML-7. Klein made those early Mavericks, so it was an easy transition. For a few years, the Palomino did an admirable job of what the Mantra was supposed to do—climb like a scalded goat-monkey and descend with respectable grace.

But, it was all for naught. Trek pulled Klein from American and European bike shops in 2007. Like Spinal Tap, Klein remained big in Japan for a couple years and then it was all over. I have no real evidence here, but I can’t help but think the Mantra (and the inevitable second-classing of the cross-country hardtail) put a nail in the coffin of that company. It’s not as if you could ever say that Klein produced slip-shod bikes. Every model with that name printed on the top tube was still a well-executed bike. The Mantra proved, however, that a well-executed nightmare of a design is still a nightmare.

Klein Mantra Vintage Bike
A Mantra circa 1998, note the Fox ALPS shock, first-year RockShox SID fork and the undeniably great, 8-speed XTR drivetrain. The Mantra was top-shelf stuff. Terrifying, but top-shelf.

Of course, there are riders out there who will disagree with me to this day—collector types who cherish the five or six Mantras hanging in their attic showrooms. I still see the occasional Mantra flying up a trail and then being ridden gingerly down the other side. People call them “nimble”. They argue that it takes “an experienced and skilled rider” to handle the descents on a Mantra. To each his or her own, I guess. There are, after all, also plenty of people who like to swallow flaming swords or juggle chainsaws before retiring to bed each night. Like the Klein Mantra, these things are an acquired taste. My advice to you, however, is this: Don’t ride one down a hill. And if you do, be real careful when you squeeze those brake levers. I’ve ridden plenty of bikes that I haven't liked in my nearly two decades of testing bikes for a living. There’s only one, however, that continues to terrify me—you’re looking at it right here.
 
You, are a master of bating markz, hatin on kleins like that (master bater?) :D The mantra is a cult classic and it's strengths shine even more with a few HP :p

I do notice some brake jack with hydros and bigger susp on mine but it's totally manageable, and perhaps I 'culted' but I like the different susp fulcrums for sitting/standing (plenty of vids. .). It never claimed to be some AM/DH/FR bike, and I've never had a complaint after 18yrs, so anyone hating on it is just being negatively sensational imo.
 
markz said:
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/1996-klein-mantra-pro-now-that-was-a-bike.html
That article was posted very shortly after I bought my Mantra. What timing eh? I found it quite comical.

What most people do not know about this bike is that it's quite plush on the the flats. Meaning it is very well suited for a street machine.
That is in part why I chose this frame. And I also feel that the motor placement is helping with the plushness of the ride.
Because the complete rear of the bike is part of the suspension, having the motor above the pedals pushes weight downward thus causing upward force of the rear axle.
I rode the bike for 300+ miles in a 3 week span before adding the e-kit, to get a feel for the bike and see what changes to handling the added weight would cause. Part of that change made the rear suspension feel more supple.

Another additional benefit is the chainline will never shrink/expand with the actuation of the rear suspension. The BB and the rear axle are a fixed distance at all times.

Anyways, I really like the bike. The issues most people had with the design will never really affect me with my intended use of the build.
 
Hey.
I found your build by accident but most interesting.
I come from a natural riding Mantra fan POV; i.e. I pedal mine.

Notes on handling (if you haven't worked it out already) :

*Feather the rear brake prior to applying your front brake; it tames the weight transfer and pogo effect under braking.
*I concur that raising the front forks (to even 130mm) travel is beneficial to the Mantra's handling.
*Modern suspension, forks and/or rear shock, with seperate compression and rebound adjustability/lockout, will transform the ride.

As an aside, I've actually now replaced one of my Mantra's front suspension with a rigid carbon fork (-allegedly, it was Gary Klein's original design intention for the Mantra as front wheel impacts activate the high mount "Spot-On" pivot to a/effect the rear suspension). I love the surety it brings as well as lessening the "stink-bug" effect. I ride this set-up cross country and commuting but feel it especially beneficial if you're using it predominately for street. Plus, it's lighter!

Pretty sure there was a chap on here who has done a killer hub motor on a Mantra (wheelies on demand!) some time ago, but it's been a while since I was last here.

Be good to see how it's looking now...?
 
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