KONA Entourage Build Thread - middrive (pic heavy)

great work. im very excited to see the finished bike :) the motor will stay very cool with this box as a heatsink.

what colour you will paint it? I think powder coating the total frame would give a fine surface.. have you think of it?
 
big moment today. i drilled the motor hole and mounted the motor. to do this (as i the biggest drill i had was 30mm) i had to cut down the collar for the brake disc from 33mm to 30mm.

IMG_1041.JPG
drilling the hole

IMG_1045.JPG
fitting the box in the frame

IMG_1047.JPG
is the chain in line? no. i don't think so. it's off by 3mm. i don't know - no matter how often you calculate something always goes wrong. it's no big deal, as i just have to add a spacer and the gears will move a bit to the outside. moving it to the inside would be more difficult. and there's one good thing as well - the more space there is between the big gear and the box, the less is the chance that the chain will hit the box when i use the largest gear in the back.

edit: funny - if i look at these picutures i looks to me as if the gears should be moved to the inside to make the chain fit. but the opposite is true. pictures can be misleading sometimes.

IMG_1046.JPG
 
3mm? :lol:
ok, the chain and sprockets will wear down a wee bit more..
 
crossbreak said:
I put in 10mm of spacers to gain eneaugh clearance.. then my hollowtech shaft was too short :oops:
Click to expand...
clearance is no issue at all. it's the original bottom bracket and the pedals don't come even close to the motor or box. i just miscalculated the position of the motor. but fortunately the sprocket can be moved outside a bit with a small spacer.
 
ok now i get it. Since you dont mount your motor on the BB, you dont need a longer BB or spacers here... you can move the motor as you like and gain enough clearance.. That does the trick :shock:

I would say you calced just right :D
 
crossbreak said:
cool. how do you seal it? silicone?
Click to expand...
self adhesive foam sealing. those are 5mm wide and 2mm high. applied to the side plates this will be pressed together. of course it's not water tight but good enough for a short trip in the rain i hope as the side plates are a tight fit already.
 
now the box is finished. side plates included. and it's heavy. super duty heavy i guess :)
the box with motor installed is 8.9 kg. batteries (6.1 kg) added, controller and CA i will end up with 16 kg extra. this is almost the same as the bike was before. so this makes it 32 kg. but that's not too bad for 2kW middrive with almost 1kWh of battery. what do you think?

the side plates fit perfectly. the holes for the taps behind are perfectly alligned as well, and the motor i exactly parallel. what more could i ask for?

IMG_1054.JPG

IMG_1055.JPG
 
This is looking nice Iceman. It will be interesting to see how this changes the new motor sounds that the mac conversion makes. I think your conversion here is the first one that has the motor fully enclosed. I am not sure if your motor noise will be worse or better inside this enclosure? I hope the line up and welding goes smooth for you when getting everything all welded together.
 
izeman said:
now the box is finished. side plates included. and it's heavy. super duty heavy i guess :)
the box with motor installed is 8.9 kg. batteries (6.1 kg) added, controller and CA i will end up with 16 kg extra. this is almost the same as the bike was before. so this makes it 32 kg. but that's not too bad for 2kW middrive with almost 1kWh of battery. what do you think?
Click to expand...

i think the weight is very ok for this power and Wh. did you already count off the weight of the frame part you cut out with the saw?^^
If you really want to safe some more weight you can use carbon plates (sandwich) instead of the Al sideplates, hmm but i think you want to stuck all together and go out for a test ride as soon as possible :)

i also hope the welding will go well. better check one more often the line up during welding than one more to sparsely.
 
I've made a welding jig to have everything in place. But alloy tends to move a lot during welding. That's why I let other's do it :)
Welding will happen on Thursday. I'm quite nervous to see it finished.
And yes I'm afraid that it could be quite noisy. I really hope it's not. The box is fully stuffed so I hope it can't act as amplifier.
 
i did some bench test runs today with the motor installed inside the box. let's put it that way: i was happier BEFORE i did the test :( this loud high pitch whining of the mac is awful. i hope it will change under load. this sound is only there at full speed. so we'll see once the bike is finished. i can also stuff the space between motor and box with some noise damping material, but as the motor is screwed to the box the noise will be there anyway.
the box will be welded to the frame on thursday. so this is then big wedding day :)
we'll see if it can all be done in one afternoon, but if all goes well i can rebuild the bike for a test run next weekend ...
 
Looking great izeman! Looks like we will both be finished pretty soon! Very much looking forward to seeing the finished bike :)
 
Hi,

I think sound dampening will make a substantial difference. I used to have a computer that was pretty noisy, sitting on a hardwood floor, and just putting a small rug under it caused a substantial noise reduction.

Maybe a carbon fiber box would be less noisy than the aluminum box?

I hope you can resolve the noise issue, because it looks like an excellent build! I can't wait to see some videos.
 
Sellick said:
Looking great izeman! Looks like we will both be finished pretty soon! Very much looking forward to seeing the finished bike :)
Click to expand...
I guess you will win the race :) and your's looks better too! i wish i had access to some cnc machinery, and that my cad knowledge didn't stop with autocad 10 *ggg*
but i think both results will look great!
 
did you had the sidecovers on the box with rubber seal between it?
noise damping material (alubutyl etc) tends to be very heavy. I know this from the sound tuning in my car. the doors now about 3kg heavier than before..
maybe you can use some rubber damping screws or something like this between the motor and the box. this would eliminate all the noise.

http://www.modellbaucenterlorenz.de...ucts_id=332&osCsid=5di7k560mcslo0in2alqamobu5
 
this won't work. i need a solid connection between motor and case. and the covervon the backside needs to be in contact with the motor as well as it acts as heatsink. putting some rubber in between won't work.
but so far i'm not sure if the box makes the motor louder. i think the motor already i quite loud by itself. this is in my workshop and no other noise around. it may be different on the road.
 
today was WEDDING DAY :) the chassis and motor have been united. finally. i was hoping to finish it today, but after 3h i had to leave and we decided that it's better not to rush. i will reassemble the bike and see if the front and rear wheel are aligned, and the motor and bottom bracket gears are in line. now i still can adjust the frame a bit if needed.

the frame in it's jig. filed off the color so it can be welded.

IMG_1059.JPG
the lower part had to be adjusted for a tight fit

IMG_1061.JPG
this is the headset. i put in steel insert to safe the bearing seat from deformation during welding

IMG_1062.JPG
the rear part welded to the box. we made really thick welds on purpose

IMG_1065.JPG
as we cut out too much of the frame (afterwards it's easy to be clever ...) we had to re-add some tube because the biggest forces are handled in the mid of the frame and not the outer sides

IMG_1069.JPG
this is what the frame look like now. you can see that there is only one junction plate on top so the frame can still be adjusted. but it should be strong enough for a test ride (no jumping involved)

View attachment 2
nice weld - isn't it :)

IMG_1074.JPG
this is the top view. this is more or less what i will see when riding the bike.

IMG_1075.JPG
 
so IT'S ALIVE :) at least some kind of. it's in the bike stand and i just connected a battery and controller and let it hang down on the bike.
chain needs some guards and i must play a bit with the chain line, but overall it's quite ok. sound as is not too bad. it surely will be better once the box is closed and stuffed with the battery.

enjoy

[youtube]bfMLxiOiYYE[/youtube]
 
i just realized that the pictures in the post before the last one are mixed up. sorry for that. they show up in the correct order on my pc, but are wrong on my ipad, iphone etc ... so i don't know how to correct it.

so today i did the first test ride. very frustrating in the beginning. i did set the controller to 40a battery and 70a phase. but lift off was SOOOOO poor. it didn't came up to speed and at top speed the motor was oszillating. i tried adjusting the CA as my throttle passed through it. i tried pass-thru, voltage, amps etc. nothing did help.

than i remembered that i soldered a second shunt and there needed a different profile to program the controller. i also doubled amps and set it to 90a and 190a. and the CA is set to 40a and 2500w max.

NOW the bike is nice :) wheelies easily in the lower gears and comes up to speed in the high gears. it's super fun going uphill at full motor speed and watching the power going down instead of up. that's efficient for sure - no comparison to my crystalite dd.

now that i know that front and rear wheel are still aligned, and everything fits (frame is 8cm longer now - which converts it from size s to size l+) i can finish welding. over the weekend cabeling can be setup correctly (correct wire length, new connectors and stuff, installing the bms ...) and then it will be powder coated.

still i want to share a pic. i must say i get used to the way it looks.

IMG_1078.JPG

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