Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

[ebike4healthandfitness]

Leaf Bike informed me the 35mm motor uses N38H magnets. The "H" rating indicates no irreversible magnetism loss up to a temp of 120C.

 

[yantra yatra]

That's what I do, to good effect. Two 48V common-port batteries wired in parallel.

Nice, do you use specifically paired and balanced batteries? I have one 15ah battery which has terrible sag, and a 17.5ah. So it could be risky running them down to lower voltage.

I thought this would combine the amps of two batteries, but not sure. It automatically shuts one battery off if it goes to a low voltage. 24V/36V/48V/52V/60V/72V Dual Battery Connector / Splitter Micro Anderson

Does anyone run packs in series for double the voltage?, eg. 2x36v for 72v or 2x48v?

 

[ebike4healthandfitness]

Nice, do you use specifically paired and balanced batteries? I have one 15ah battery which has terrible sag, and a 17.5ah. So it could be risky running them down to lower voltage.

I thought this would combine the amps of two batteries, but not sure. It automatically shuts one battery off if it goes to a low voltage. 24V/36V/48V/52V/60V/72V Dual Battery Connector / Splitter Micro Anderson

Does anyone run packs in series for double the voltage?, eg. 2x36v for 72v or 2x48v?

What diameter tire are you running?

 

[99t4]

Nice, do you use specifically paired and balanced batteries?

Two identical (used) battery packs. I did not test them for determining any capacity differences. I simply charged the lower SOC one to within 0.1V of the higher SOC one before paralleling them together. They have stayed connected over hundreds of charge/discharge cycles over the past few years. Starting to get a little tired so probably will swap them out for the next set before winter.

 

[99t4]

I have one 15ah battery which has terrible sag, and a 17.5ah. So it could be risky running them down to lower voltage.

What I think happens is the stronger battery ends up doing most of the work. Hopefully someone will correct me if that is incorrect. Are yours both common-port BMS?

 

[E-HP]

Nice, do you use specifically paired and balanced batteries? I have one 15ah battery which has terrible sag, and a 17.5ah. So it could be risky running them down to lower voltage.

Even if the packs were exactly the same, you still need to monitor the voltage level of each independently, as well as the total. In your case, it's even more important, because one of your packs is a piece of crap (paraphrasing), and since it's also the small one, it will sag into the danger zone quickly.
I use these because they are two wire (don't need a low voltage supply):

Amazon.com

You also need to think about a safe charging routine, and stick to it.

 

[Bullfrog]

Leaf Bike informed me the 35mm motor uses N38H magnets. The "H" rating indicates no irreversible magnetism loss up to a temp of 120C.

Good tid bit...I need to be more careful about my temps since I was planning on running up to 130C.

 

[Bullfrog]

Just installed a 26" front wheel with a Schwalbe Super Moto-X 2.4" wide tire on it and I already had a 26x2.5" Maxxis Hookworm on the rear with the 26" wide rim from Leaf.

The donor bike I am using is a Schwinn Axum 29er and with the 26" wheels/tires the crank arms are too close to the ground so I plan to install shorter crank arms to avoid having pedal strikes, although I do always go around corners with my inside pedal at the top of the stroke. Bike is handling nicely now...it is going to be interesting to see how/if the handling changes when I go to a 24" rear wheel and a Schwalbe Pick-Up in size 24x2.6". My current 26" rear tire has an OD of 686mm and the 24" has an OD of 637mm...the original 29er has a 754mm OD.

I'll post some pics if I ever get it finished .

 

[neptronix]

I feel like you're cutting it too low, don't have any 26er frames lying around?

 

[Bullfrog]

I feel like you're cutting it too low, don't have any 26er frames lying around?

I am keeping an eye out for a steel Mongoose or Schwinn mountain bike frame with disc brakes and 26" wheels.

I think the Schwinn Axum 29er is going to work pretty good once I change the crank arms. The Axum actually came in two frame sizes...17" and 19", mine is a 19" frame. I seriously considered a Mountain bike with 24" wheels but the frame triangle for my battery is just too small.

 

[neptronix]

I don't know where you live ( location not entered ), but thrift stores are bursting with 26" steel hardtail frames in my locale.
Full suspension? not so much.

 

[Bullfrog]

I don't know where you live ( location not entered ), but thrift stores are bursting with 26" steel hardtail frames in my locale.
Full suspension? not so much.

Same here except finding bikes with disc brakes is pretty challenging. I can swap forks to get a disc on the front but I'd prefer to have the brackets for the rear caliper come on the bike from the factory.

Ordered a crank from "Cleary Bikes" with 89mm crank arms and installed it on my Schwinn Axum 29er along with the 26" wheels...doesn't do much for pedaling but at least I can corner now without constantly smacking my pedal/crank on the ground.

Handling of my Leaf ebike is not quite as good as my bike with a MAC...just because the weight distribution is a little heavy towards the rear with the Leaf motor...even with my triangle battery in the forward frame triangle.

Surfing through Facebook Marketplace this morning for a steel framed bike with disc brakes and a threadless fork. I like to have disc brakes front and rear, a steel frame is more resistant to cracking but probably not a requirement, and the threadless fork is a requirement just so I can swap to a better suspension fork if needed...and they ARE usually needed. I like the SR Suntour Raidon or Epixon...both are relatively inexpensive and work fairly well and I usually go with the 29" model just to give me enough clearance when I run a wide tire (the wide tire is also taller).

 

[E-HP]

Surfing through Facebook Marketplace this morning for a steel framed bike with disc brakes and a threadless fork.

This is a very short list, especially when you add the other criteria of non-thru axle dropouts. The window between when discs became more standardized, and when the industry moved to aluminum and 1 1/8” steerer tubes, and then went to thru axles, is relatively narrow.
I was keeping a list for a while, but the couple of bikes I found were out of Canada for some reason (but I did see one pop up on Craigslist once). I believe I saw a recent build with a steel frame and discs recently, but forgot to bookmark it. May have been a fat frame though.
Most current models, unless it’s a custom build, won’t have the right dropouts though. Marin makes steel frames with disc mounts but with thru axles for example. You may be able to find a list already compiled online since it seems to be a frequently asked question.

PS. Around here I see at least two ads posted regularly on Craigslist offering braze on disc brake conversions for steel frames. Never looked into the cost.

 

[Chalo]

The only reason you would need disc brakes is because you're using an unintended wheel size. If you're using 26" wheels on a 26" frame, you don't have that problem and you can use rim brakes. Then you can have the benefits of simple, quiet, easily serviceable, lightweight, effective, and inexpensive brakes. And it makes it much easier to get a frame that checks all your other boxes.

Pound for pound and dollar for dollar, a 22" rotor beats a 6" rotor every time.

 

[neptronix]

I just use regen on the back and an oversized disc rotor on the front.. both controlled by one lever.
In the ultra rare case of failure of regen, i have enough braking force on the front to come to an emergency stop.

As a result of using the single lever, ~90% of my braking is regenerative braking. This optimizes my range.

 

[Bullfrog]

The only reason you would need disc brakes is because you're using an unintended wheel size. If you're using 26" wheels on a 26" frame, you don't have that problem and you can use rim brakes. Then you can have the benefits of simple, quiet, easily serviceable, lightweight, effective, and inexpensive brakes. And it makes it much easier to get a frame that checks all your other boxes.

Pound for pound and dollar for dollar, a 22" rotor beats a 6" rotor every time.

Not when it is wet. The coefficient of friction between steel or aluminum and wet rubber is somewhere close to ZERO .

 

[Chalo]

As a result of using the single lever, ~90% of my braking is regenerative braking. This optimizes my range.

Adding battery capacity adds range without breaking stuff or adding points of failure.

 

[Chalo]

Not when it is wet. The coefficient of friction between steel or aluminum and wet rubber is somewhere close to ZERO .

Sounds like you haven't tried it. Or at least not tried Kool Stop Salmon pads on brakes that are competently set up.

Discs get wet too, and they suck and honk when they do.

 

[Bullfrog]

This is a very short list, especially when you add the other criteria of non-thru axle dropouts. The window between when discs became more standardized, and when the industry moved to aluminum and 1 1/8” steerer tubes, and then went to thru axles, is relatively narrow.
I was keeping a list for a while, but the couple of bikes I found were out of Canada for some reason (but I did see one pop up on Craigslist once). I believe I saw a recent build with a steel frame and discs recently, but forgot to bookmark it. May have been a fat frame though.
Most current models, unless it’s a custom build, won’t have the right dropouts though. Marin makes steel frames with disc mounts but with thru axles for example. You may be able to find a list already compiled online since it seems to be a frequently asked question.

PS. Around here I see at least two ads posted regularly on Craigslist offering braze on disc brake conversions for steel frames. Never looked into the cost.

I agree the list is pretty short.

My list of requirements for a donor bike is below:

A. Disc brakes front and rear. I appreciate them when a clueless car driver pulls out in front of me when I am doing 45 mph. I prefer hydraulic calipers but the cable operated calipers work OK if you keep them adjusted correctly.
B. Enough clearance in the frame so I can run whatever width tire I like...usually that is a 2.6"-2.8" so "most" mountain bike frames will work.
C. A steel frame would be my first choice but aluminum is acceptable most of the time. I have had good luck with the Schwinn and Mongoose aluminum frames I have used...they appear to use a healthy safety factor in their design.
D. Enough room in the forward frame triangle that I can mount my triangle battery/battery bag. This usually means no rear suspension.

E. A threadless fork steerer. Makes using a "good" fork a relatively simple swap. I like the SR Suntour Raidon...it is a pretty good bang for your buck.

 

[Bullfrog]

Sounds like you haven't tried it. Or at least not tried Kool Stop Salmon pads on brakes that are competently set up.

Discs get wet too, and they suck and honk when they do.

I have not tried the Salmon pads...I may have to do it now that I am aware of them . Thanks

The other disadvantage of rim brakes is they wear your rim. It is much easier and less expensive to replace a disc than it is to replace a rim.

On the advantage side, rim brakes are lighter.

 

[Chalo]

I agree the list is pretty short.

My list of requirements for a donor bike is below:

A. Disc brakes front and rear. I appreciate them when a clueless car driver pulls out in front of me when I am doing 45 mph. I prefer hydraulic calipers but the cable operated calipers work OK if you keep them adjusted correctly.
B. Enough clearance in the frame so I can run whatever width tire I like...usually that is a 2.6"-2.8" so "most" mountain bike frames will work.
C. A steel frame would be my first choice but aluminum is acceptable most of the time. I have had good luck with the Schwinn and Mongoose aluminum frames I have used...they appear to use a healthy safety factor in their design.
D. Enough room in the forward frame triangle that I can mount my triangle battery/battery bag. This usually means no rear suspension.

E. A threadless fork steerer. Makes using a "good" fork a relatively simple swap. I like the SR Suntour Raidon...it is a pretty good bang for your buck.

Surly Troll
Surly Instigator
Surly Bridge Club

I think of these three, only the Bridge Club is in current production. It's furnished with 700x41 or 27.5x2.4" wheels and tires, but it goes just as well with 26x3".

 

[ebike4healthandfitness]

I agree the list is pretty short.

My list of requirements for a donor bike is below:

A. Disc brakes front and rear. I appreciate them when a clueless car driver pulls out in front of me when I am doing 45 mph. I prefer hydraulic calipers but the cable operated calipers work OK if you keep them adjusted correctly.
B. Enough clearance in the frame so I can run whatever width tire I like...usually that is a 2.6"-2.8" so "most" mountain bike frames will work.
C. A steel frame would be my first choice but aluminum is acceptable most of the time. I have had good luck with the Schwinn and Mongoose aluminum frames I have used...they appear to use a healthy safety factor in their design.
D. Enough room in the forward frame triangle that I can mount my triangle battery/battery bag. This usually means no rear suspension.

E. A threadless fork steerer. Makes using a "good" fork a relatively simple swap. I like the SR Suntour Raidon...it is a pretty good bang for your buck.

If you are worried about a car pulling out in front of you when you are doing 45 mph then frame geometry and fork design is more important than whether or not the rear has disc or rim brakes.

Just having whatever brake you think is the best on the rear will not be enough if you can't use the brake due to the rear tire coming off the ground. Obviously during an extreme brake maneuver you are going to shift weight rearward....but some bike frame and fork designs will be better than others.

 

[ebike4healthandfitness]

Bike is handling nicely now...it is going to be interesting to see how/if the handling changes when I go to a 24" rear wheel and a Schwalbe Pick-Up in size 24x2.6". My current 26" rear tire has an OD of 686mm and the 24" has an OD of 637mm...the original 29er has a 754mm OD.

Are you planning on making this a mullet bike? (i.e. 26" diameter front tire coupled to 24" diameter rear tire)

 

[Bullfrog]

Are you planning on making this a mullet bike? (i.e. 26" diameter front tire coupled to 24" diameter rear tire)

It might unintentionally end up as a Mullet bike but only because the 24" rear wheel is a requirement to help with over heating and a 26" front tire handles better...but that is TBD. I have compared the handling of a 20" front wheel to a 26" and I liked the 26" better because the 20" wheel was a little twitchy but I have never directly compared a 24" to a 26"...yet.

 

[Bullfrog]

Brakes....what type/design of clamp on the rim brakes is the best for the rear of an ebike that is running a 3" wide tire on a 40mm internal width rim?

Is there a specific brake you would recommend...link please? Pads/shoes are another discussion but that can wait.

Potential examples include V-brakes (Shimano trade marked term), Linear-pull brakes or direct-pull brakes that use a "noodle" and a "bellows" by other manufacturers, and Center Pull Cantilever brakes. I only mentioned the V-Brake/Cantilever type design because I think those will be required to clear my tire...please correct me if I am mistaken.

I plan to try rim brakes on the rear of my ebike if I find a steel frame that has the mounting capability for rim brakes in the rear. Based on what I have read so far, the Shimano V-brakes seem to be the best option for a mountain bike with wider tires. Only reason I said "Shimano" is because Shimano has trade marked the "V-brake" terminology...there are a lot of manufacturers that produce the same design.

Below is an example of the V-brake (shimano)/linear pull brakes



Below is an example of center pull cantilever brakes:



So the only real restriction on my donor bike is it needs to be capable of accepting a 1 1/8 threadless steerer so I can install a decent suspension fork and I plan to run a 180mm disc brake in the front...only reason I am not going with a larger disc is my fork has a maximum 180mm disc.

I prefer a steel frame but it is not absolutely mandatory and a square taper bottom bracket is preferred just so more crank arm lengths are readily available but it is not absolutely mandatory either.