Too bad you never tried 20" tire with fast winding at higher volts.I have a 24", 26", 27.5", and a 29" rims with a MAC hub laced to them so I can just swap the motor by unbolting the nine small screws that hold the motor in the hub/shell. The 29" rim rides nicely over bumps but it gears the MAC too high and contributes to over heating. The 27.5" rim I like because there are several good 2.8" tires available but it is still a little tall for the overall gearing. I usually run the 24" or the 26" because they actually help with over heating. 26" bicycle tires are probably the most common diameter if you consider all bikes worldwide.
Too bad you never tried 20" tire with fast winding at higher volts.
Check out the performance of the MAC with 6T winding and 20" tire at 72v/40 amps (at both 77% throttle and full throttle):
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...ebikes.ca
That is really impressive!
Thanks, I will try that at some point. And thanks for the link.you may want to get a cheap watt/amp meter to verify with. Since the voltage is correct but the current isn’t, that would indicate the system is assuming a different shunt value than the shunts in the controller, like an unintended shunt mod. I’d measure with a separate meter while riding full throttle up the steepest hill you can find and see the what the peak watts/amps are.
What setup do you run to hit 59mph?- 12lbs for a 1kw rated motor versus 16lbs for an almost 2kw rated motor with 8% higher efficiency is a no brainer.
- I have regenerative braking while descending that huge hill i climbed, the mid drive rider doesn't - that's a safety hazard for a high speed bike
- No constant bike drivetrain wear, only 1 rotating part, way less maintenance and stuff that could break.
- No funky pedal offset, maintains stock pedaling width.
- No problems getting a tall enough chainring to pedal at high speed.
- Costs less
- Absolutely kicks ass if you have a small wheel diameter or don't have prolonged >7% grades to worry about.
As for speed, I hit 59mph on the Leaf. The limiting factor of top speed was the wheelbase of the frame and the then state of the art for motor control technology ( couldn't tune out power wheelies ), so i never found out what the true maximum speed was.
PS i live in the mountains where we can have 5-15% grades for miles and miles. I wouldn't scale to the top of a mountain with a leaf unless i had a 20" wheel, but i was never nervous about less heroic feats with the leaf. It has an excess of available power and this helps offset the increased load during climbing.
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The simplest set up is a Direct Drive motor like the Leaf...only one moving part.What setup do you run to hit 59mph?
I’m still leaning towards the torque sensing BBSHD M635, maybe shunt modded - it looks like with a standard 48v or 52v setup the top speed is pretty similar between BBSHD and Leafbike, so with the benefit of gears it makes sense to stay with BBSHD and have batteries I can share between bikes.
Going up to 72v and getting into the hub drive setup seems like a bit more complicated to learn a new setup. Keen to know what controller, battery etc you use to simplify it for me!
If you enjoy what you're riding and it's doing the job, then there's no reason to switch !!That’s about what I’d expect from a HD at 52v, ~37mph. Totally understand the perspective on the benefits of the Leaf bike but I’d need another advantage over the M635 to switch to a hub, like a bit higher top speed, to get motivated to switch to a hub
I can’t help but feel that if a company like Tesla put a few of its engineers and designers to work on ebike motors and batteries they could come up with some significant advances. This motor seems to be pretty similar to what was being sold ten years ago. And the BBSHD is the same. Ebikes apparently displace twice as much oil consumption as electric cars according to some media reports, so it could certainly use some more investment in research and development.
None of this is very plug and play or accessible to even entry level enthusiasts.
Edit: I suppose if the regulations were brought up to date and with a little careful thought and consideration, investment and spending would follow
Ebikes apparently displace twice as much oil consumption as electric cars according to some media reports,
I’m talking aggregate, across Ebikes and electric cars as a whole rather than on a per vehicle basis. Anyway probably still far more than double on oil alone, before considering battery materials etcNot even close. Sooooooo much more than that. You could ride an e-bike for every trip for the rest of your life, and all the invested energy and material resources wouldn't add up to what has been wasted in an e-car before it even hits the road once.
That is likely under ideal conditions.I’m talking aggregate, across Ebikes and electric cars as a whole rather than on a per vehicle basis. Anyway probably still far more than double on oil alone, before considering battery materials etc
I'd go with a DR650 or a DRZ400 before the Wee-Strom but weight is my major hang up....the Wee is a great machine.I’ve got three mids, BBS01, BBS02 and the DM01 (torque sensing 160nm mid), but the DM01 packed it in and the others aren’t powerful enough for my main bike…
I’m keen to get just one good bike, and trying to make the decision. I wouldn’t mind having one of each, M635 and Leafbike.
But stock they might both be a little underpowere. it never hurts to have more power when you want it (for the hills and long distances). Keen to hear what people’s setup is in terms of controller on the Leaf.
The other options that cross my mind are getting a SuperSoco 5000w e-moto, or a V Strom 650CC adventure motorbike. Very different I know but they could do the same job, but at the end of the day I’m keen for a decent electric bike.
I use the Infineon Clones to run my MACs...they work great .I used a 18FET 3077 infineon clone controller and was pushing 48-72v and 60-100A on my 4T.
My best advice is to not buy the stock controller, it's garbage.
That's what I do, to good effect. Two 48V common-port batteries wired in parallel.As for batteries, is there a reason why people don’t use two pre made packs in parallel or series to get double the amps or volts? Eg two 36v packs to get a 72v system? Or two 52v to get higher amps? Hard to find ready made batteries with eg 60a continuous.