the idea of just putting a capacitor across each cell might work, if you haul a trailer full of supercapacitors. 1 farad will deliver 1A for 1 second, so if your controller draws 20 amps that is 50 milliseconds from a bank of capacitors about the size of a 12 pack. If you were using occasional bursts of milliseconds of high power like drum beats on a car stereo a huge capacitor can save wear on the battery plates by spreading out the load, but when you have a constant load the caps will do nothing for you.
there are definitely lots of the 3.3v converters on ebay and the surplus market, for the do-it-yourself guy who wants a single cell charging solution. most of these switching regulators are not isolated and not all have adjustable voltage, so one must choose carefully. 425 of the power-one units i used are still available for $10 at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150201797488&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005 These are 20A supplies that have sense and trim and enable inputs that can be used to easily convert them to single cell chargers that will take a supply from 36-48v and turn it into an n cell charger with independently adjustable channels for each cell. Smaller modules are available for use at lower current, or the sense inputs of these units could be used to limit the current to a lower value with some added circuitry. You still need a big DC supply to power the converters but they will accept a wide input range.
putting a shunt across each cell during the charge cycle prevents overcharge, and if the charger cuts off at the proper voltage this should charge every cell up to 100% every charge cycle. Without the shunts some cells will be overcharged and some will not reach full voltage before the charger cuts off. i am sure there is a lot more to it, but that seems like a good place to start.
a comment was made that you cannot just charge these cells to 3.6v indefinitely because they might produce a lower voltage as they age? i have certainly not seen that myself or in anything i have read. my experience is that the charge current will drop to a very low value when the cells reach 3.6v and eventually the current will drop to almost zero. i would not rely on that, but if any cell cannot be brought up to 3.6v by the balancing circuit in the expected time i would want to know about it and get an error signal. I have never seen a cell that could not reach the full charge voltage and i have not seen anything indicating that is the case. In fact i have found you can charge these cells up to 4v and higher with no apparent short term damage. If the claim is that charging older cells to the same voltage as new cells is a problem, that is another statement i would like to see verified. Anyone who has information on this effect i would love to see it. there are very few "authorities" on LiFePo4 batteries, and i don't claim to be one. i am just one of the guys trying to get better batteries for my bikes and a few friends.
there are definitely lots of the 3.3v converters on ebay and the surplus market, for the do-it-yourself guy who wants a single cell charging solution. most of these switching regulators are not isolated and not all have adjustable voltage, so one must choose carefully. 425 of the power-one units i used are still available for $10 at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150201797488&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005 These are 20A supplies that have sense and trim and enable inputs that can be used to easily convert them to single cell chargers that will take a supply from 36-48v and turn it into an n cell charger with independently adjustable channels for each cell. Smaller modules are available for use at lower current, or the sense inputs of these units could be used to limit the current to a lower value with some added circuitry. You still need a big DC supply to power the converters but they will accept a wide input range.
putting a shunt across each cell during the charge cycle prevents overcharge, and if the charger cuts off at the proper voltage this should charge every cell up to 100% every charge cycle. Without the shunts some cells will be overcharged and some will not reach full voltage before the charger cuts off. i am sure there is a lot more to it, but that seems like a good place to start.
a comment was made that you cannot just charge these cells to 3.6v indefinitely because they might produce a lower voltage as they age? i have certainly not seen that myself or in anything i have read. my experience is that the charge current will drop to a very low value when the cells reach 3.6v and eventually the current will drop to almost zero. i would not rely on that, but if any cell cannot be brought up to 3.6v by the balancing circuit in the expected time i would want to know about it and get an error signal. I have never seen a cell that could not reach the full charge voltage and i have not seen anything indicating that is the case. In fact i have found you can charge these cells up to 4v and higher with no apparent short term damage. If the claim is that charging older cells to the same voltage as new cells is a problem, that is another statement i would like to see verified. Anyone who has information on this effect i would love to see it. there are very few "authorities" on LiFePo4 batteries, and i don't claim to be one. i am just one of the guys trying to get better batteries for my bikes and a few friends.