LightningRods mid drive kit

you mean the pant guard on the crank arm, will do , although that can only mean the chain line is wrong. cause that's the default spacing i got. if i need to increase the spacing i'll longer sunken bolts.

mike we'll be sending the isis set tommorow, i'm hoping they'll be here while i'm still on vacation.

i also broke the pin the chain tool, so now i'm "stuck" on a 15T ON 80T (26 reduction) luckly the chain tensioned correctly on it. the top speed i got thus far is 46 kph (2000 watts) , i wonder if a 17 reduction will make it faster. the temp sensor is working, and after about 5-10 minutes of high load the inside temp was around 51 degrees celius inside the motor, i believe the danger zones are 120.

i'm hoping to sample a 72 v battery pack, to see if it would make a any difference, now that the thun is no longer i may need to upgrade :( (darnet i so wanted the torque sensor, now i'll have to settle on pas) .
 
Makes sense, I'll give that a go when my new one arrives.

Used to do it with brushed and even brushless RC motors, would run them in a cup of distilled water on lower than normal voltage for a few hours.
Beds everything in as it should be without having to do it under heavy load.
 
Wow I've never heard of breaking in a motor before. Those are some seriously tight tolerances. Thanks for the heads up.
 
From that video the full throttle no load is 198w at 56v , why is it so high compared to say the Bafang BBS02 ? I have pasted below from another thread and that one is 90w driveing the rear wheel. Or 220% more then the LR. Does that mean if you are running both at low power levels 1-200w at maximum RPM which is the most efficient, that the LR will use twice as much average power ? What causes the no load to be so high can it be fixed?

by Kepler » Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:34 pm



ac246 wrote:with the bike in gear 8 which is an 11 tooth cog, the bike draws 160 watts just to spin the wheel. but with the chain off it is about 60 watts.


I measured mine with the stock controller for a comparison. Mine is a 44 tooth chain ring and 11 tooth on the rear spinning a 29er wheel with White Industries hub.

Drew 90W driving the wheel and 40W with the chain off.
 
He is saying it draws 160 watts of throttle to just start turning the wheel. The video shows power draw at full throttle.
 
emaayan said:
you mean the pant guard on the crank arm, will do , although that can only mean the chain line is wrong. cause that's the default spacing i got. if i need to increase the spacing i'll longer sunken bolts.

mike we'll be sending the isis set tommorow, i'm hoping they'll be here while i'm still on vacation.

i also broke the pin the chain tool, so now i'm "stuck" on a 15T ON 80T (26 reduction) luckly the chain tensioned correctly on it. the top speed i got thus far is 46 kph (2000 watts) , i wonder if a 17 reduction will make it faster. the temp sensor is working, and after about 5-10 minutes of high load the inside temp was around 51 degrees celius inside the motor, i believe the danger zones are 120.

i'm hoping to sample a 72 v battery pack, to see if it would make a any difference, now that the thun is no longer i may need to upgrade :( (darnet i so wanted the torque sensor, now i'll have to settle on pas) .

I use 72v on mine..you wont get much over 50kph..maybe 50 to 55kph hot off the charger
 
running it not load for a few hours? please don't tell me i have to take the motor apart, can i at least run it with just wheels off the ground??

i use 72v on mine..you wont get much over 50kph..maybe 50 to 55kph hot off the charger
at what wattage? if 72v doesn't make much of a diffrence, and why iuse it?
 
t0me said:
how hard is it to remove the belt?
pretty hard, i have to fuss around the loosen the jack shaft again,. slide it back.
 
this chain line doesn't look good though..
IMG_20141006_110311.jpg
 
emaayan said:
running it not load for a few hours? please don't tell me i have to take the motor apart, can i at least run it with just wheels off the ground??

i use 72v on mine..you wont get much over 50kph..maybe 50 to 55kph hot off the charger
at what wattage? if 72v doesn't make much of a diffrence, and why iuse it?

I dont know why you will use it..its not my bike.
All i know is that dont expect over 55kph on 72v

What is your highest kph goal?
 
ebike11 said:
emaayan said:
running it not load for a few hours? please don't tell me i have to take the motor apart, can i at least run it with just wheels off the ground??

i use 72v on mine..you wont get much over 50kph..maybe 50 to 55kph hot off the charger
at what wattage? if 72v doesn't make much of a diffrence, and why iuse it?

I dont know why you will use it..its not my bike.
All i know is that dont expect over 55kph on 72v

What is your highest kph goal?

Pretty much around that ball park,thats what i got with ecospeed with the super bmc,only it chew through my planetary gear most of the time.
 
" breaking in " electric motors is an old brushed RC motor thing to bed the brushes properly..

On a brushless motor, this makes no sense to me, if the rotor is rubbing, it's a bad motor design or bearings/shaft is flexing under load.. both things to avoid by buying a better motor/setup

I do understand the part about slowly grinding it down to prevent total failure, but imagine the particles floating in there eating away at the bearings.. yuck
 
Ypedal said:
" breaking in " electric motors is an old brushed RC motor thing to bed the brushes properly..

On a brushless motor, this makes no sense to me, if the rotor is rubbing, it's a bad motor design or bearings/shaft is flexing under load.. both things to avoid by buying a better motor/setup

I do understand the part about slowly grinding it down to prevent total failure, but imagine the particles floating in there eating away at the bearings.. yuck
the problem here is that there's no way to test if its faulty motor other then opening it, even then the deformation might be initially unnoticed by an untrained eye, further more asking the general population to break in a bldc motor while no other bldc kit asks you to do that might raise a few eyebrows.
 
jdevo2004 said:
emaayan said:
running it not load for a few hours? please don't tell me i have to take the motor apart, can i at least run it with just wheels off the ground??

I am sure that would be fine. Just make sure you set your cycle analyst to reduce power at the appropriate temperature.

well i'm currently running it with just the belt. btw you have 104 v pack, what's the top speed you ever got to?
 
i'm assuming tha'ts 30 amps on 100volts.

i'm gonna try to post here some data logger, as soon as i get my hearing back from the continuous motor running in the background.

btw, if anyone is interested at WOT with just the belt, the motor is taking 111 watts. that's 54.9 v on 2.03 amps. after an hour and half of continious use it's temperature has reached around 63c degrees in an an air conditioned room of about 20c degrees
 
btw i switched the reduction from 33 to 26 by replacing the driver sprocket from 12 to 15 , and i did reach 50 kph, so that's good, i'm interested to see what would happen if switch to 18, but i'll have to wait for chain tool to arrive, along with the extended bb

i'm am concerned about the noise coming from the belt drive, i hope it's from the belt drive, and not the motor, or it may have becuase i adjust the jack shaft to the right as much as i could to try and avoid the ratterling chain .
[youtube]NfEXZJuej1c[/youtube]
 
i'm well aware of the Vertical VIdeo syndrome :), however since my phone is sporting an extended 4600 mah battery, turning it 90 degrees in one hand while the other is trying to stabilize the bike and pushing the throttle is no really an option.

that and the it video camera sometimes hangs when it's turned around.
 
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