LightningRods mid drive kit

[LightningRods]

Can a temp sensor be added to the xxl motor? Is there a way to easily connect it to an analog (or digital) gauge w/o needing a cycle analyst
2 XXL big blocks powering a smart car? Maybe? Unconfirmed it’s 1500-1800 lbs.

Yes there are stand alone digital temperature gauges that will work with any of my motors.
Two XXLs will move a 1500 lb car, but with 50 HP and 100 ft lbs combined performance will be modest.
A gearbox would effectively double the power of the motors. That combo would be more fun. Or four XXLs.

 

[Skaiwerd]

Thanks for that information. It helps with my encouragement. I was ass dragging on this project thinking I needed a 20 y/o+ car to skip the recertification process. I’m I’m not up for red tape headaches. The answer is to register it in Vermont. I’m in CT. You don’t have to live in VT to register your car there.
I was originally thinking hub motors for this.

 

[TysonScott]

anyone know what voltage supply the hall sensor on the big block motor needs? my controller has a 3.3v and 5v output

 

[LightningRods]

5v is what I’ve used

 

[LightningRods]

 

[richj8990]

TBH I’ve never seen a 105T 219. The largest I’ve found are 96T. The diameter of a 120T 219 is 11.7” by the way.
The 24F Nucular is plenty of controller. You might be okay at 7:1 considering how light your bike is. Top speed will be around 55 mph @ 20S.

Do you have any of these mounting brackets by themselves for sale. I'd like to move the motor up the downtube (not in the triangle) maybe 1.5 to 2.0 inches so that a standard Hollowtech II crankset can fit w/o the right crank hitting the motor's sprocket. That would also allow for the drive chainring to be more than 46T (I got the non-belted motor from a different vendor) and also fix the chainline a lot; it's way over toward the lower cogs due to the 148mm asymmetrical bb. Any suggestions appreciated. Here are also a couple links to the motor clones:

L-Faster 450W Mid-Drive (discontinued, they use it as a side-drive instead)

E-Bay - Dome Motor 450W Mid-drive...it is in stock --- most of the kit is worthless

 

[TysonScott]

Sorry, I took the evening off. Here are the pics:
View attachment 310926
View attachment 310927
View attachment 310928
Yes the six bolt pattern is the same as a standard disc brake rotor. The Fouriers part is available all over the internet and comes with positioning spacers.

Hi Michael, Do you still sell this part? I was looking to get a bigger chain on my BB setup.

 

[LightningRods]

I have had a long run of bad luck with frame suppliers. First Qulbix came out with their own hub motor mid drive and stopped making the Q76 that I made a swingarm drive for. Then they started again. Then they stopped again. They may be making them again, I don't know. Then I made an 18kW mid drive for the Motoped. Motoped went out of business soon afterward. Then I tried the ELEEK Lite frames out of Ukraine. They had a little problem with the Russians and then decided they didn't want to sell just frames. Plus they would ignore customers who would then come crying to me. Finally I decided to go with a more universal format made by multiple manufacturers. I'd also become aware that the SurRon and Bomber guys posting videos of themselves lane splitting on the freeway had created a negative impact on the high powered e-bike segment. I wanted something stealthier that wouldn't scream "arrest me and impound my bike" to law enforcement. The Bafang "Ultra" M620 drives were very generic looking, underpowered, and seemed to be resistant to hot rodding them. Perfect. I got a hardtail frame from South Bay Bikes in the San Francisco area and got to work. With a little bit of grinding and some KY jelly I was able to squeeze a 6kW LR Small Block into the Ultra shell. To the casual eye my Ultra drive looks very little different than the M620. I also used a belt primary to keep the noise level down to stealth mode. The bike scoots and (if you're in a place where it's safe and legal) does 55 mph.

 

[LightningRods]

Profiles of just the drive

 

[LightningRods]

Once you get above 3kW bicycle chain and sprockets don't last long. One solution is to go single speed on the right side and I've done that a lot. The problem with that approach is that you lose your pedaling gears. If you want to pedal with a high powered motor, LHD is the way to go. As part of this Ultra drive I developed a 219 LHD that allows regen braking and the full use of all of the bicycle gears on the right side. At 6kW on a bicycle this drive doesn't need multiple gears. It pulls hard and climbs great and still does 55 mph. You can pedal as fast as your gearing allows.

 

[LightningRods]

So anyway, that's where I've been for the last year.

 

[LightningRods]

 

[LightningRods]

 

[LightningRods]

 

[maiz]

I have had a long run of bad luck with frame suppliers. First Qulbix came out with their own hub motor mid drive and stopped making the Q76 that I made a swingarm drive for. Then they started again. Then they stopped again. They may be making them again, I don't know. Then I made an 18kW mid drive for the Motoped. Motoped went out of business soon afterward. Then I tried the ELEEK Lite frames out of Ukraine. They had a little problem with the Russians and then decided they didn't want to sell just frames. Plus they would ignore customers who would then come crying to me. Finally I decided to go with a more universal format made by multiple manufacturers. I'd also become aware that the SurRon and Bomber guys posting videos of themselves lane splitting on the freeway had created a negative impact on the high powered e-bike segment. I wanted something stealthier that wouldn't scream "arrest me and impound my bike" to law enforcement. The Bafang "Ultra" M620 drives were very generic looking, underpowered, and seemed to be resistant to hot rodding them. Perfect. I got a hardtail frame from South Bay Bikes in the San Francisco area and got to work. With a little bit of grinding and some KY jelly I was able to squeeze a 6kW LR Small Block into the Ultra shell. To the casual eye my Ultra drive looks very little different than the M620. I also used a belt primary to keep the noise level down to stealth mode. The bike scoots and (if you're in a place where it's safe and legal) does 55 mph.

*north bay bikes

 

[LightningRods]

*north bay bikes

This is where to buy the frames: North Bay Bikes

 

[LightningRods]

One of the crazier groups in the Ebike world is the Razor group. Something about these tiny kid's bikes with tiny wheels has made people want to put huge motors, batteries and controllers in them with speed rated moped tires. One of these killer squirrels was built by Vincent using one of my XL motors. He's running 220 line amps and 300 phase amps at 30S. This is enough power for a small motorcycle. He's been having too much fun and as he says "The cops don't even raise an eyebrow".

 

[Bullfrog]

How do the Lightning Rod kits compare to the new CYC X1 Pro Gen 4?

I am not super familiar with either, just looking for the basic advantages and disadvantages for both.

Thanks

 

[lnanek]

Just looking at the respective sites, the smallest lightning rods motor seems to be the same power as the cyc gen 4 pro, both being 5,000 watts:

https://www.cycmotor.com/product-page/x1-pro-gen-4

So I guess anything larger than their smallest is even more powerful. The description of the biggest said flat out not to put it in a bicycle. So we're talking more light motorcycles there.

 

[scianiac]

I've done a fair amount of research on the CYC and have some experience with their "stealth" drive and have a Small Block on my bike. They are in some ways very different and kinda depends on what you are after.

Power: Honestly you should never take any manufacturer's word for an ebike motor power, and I don't even mean that CYC is lying it will do the power they list but not for very long and under significant stress, the small block barely feels like it's trying at 5Kw and that is closer to a continuous rating. Same goes for the driveline.

Use: The CYC is kinda designed so that you can also pedal it nicely but still have good power the LR drives are really designed not to be able to be pedaled. The tradeoff is the CYC is much more delicate and high strung in order to accomplish that. The LR drives are basically bomb proof and even with very high power levels as long as you setup the drive to back wheel part reasonably well it will be much more reliable.

Install and cost: CYC is plug and play, LR you have to either bring your own controller and such or buy a High Voltage EVs kit. Depending how you do that will start to determine the cost. The LR kit is not hard to install, it's actually very easy but the controller setup and all that does require some effort.

So it really depends what you intend for the bike, which honestly is always the first thing you should be considering before looking at any parts. What is the bike going to do, terrain, speeds, pedal or not, range, what is it going to be really good at, what is it optimized for.

 

[Bullfrog]

Just looking at the respective sites, the smallest lightning rods motor seems to be the same power as the cyc gen 4 pro, both being 5,000 watts:

https://www.cycmotor.com/product-page/x1-pro-gen-4

So I guess anything larger than their smallest is even more powerful. The description of the biggest said flat out not to put it in a bicycle. So we're talking more light motorcycles there.

I've done a fair amount of research on the CYC and have some experience with their "stealth" drive and have a Small Block on my bike. They are in some ways very different and kinda depends on what you are after.

Power: Honestly you should never take any manufacturer's word for an ebike motor power, and I don't even mean that CYC is lying it will do the power they list but not for very long and under significant stress, the small block barely feels like it's trying at 5Kw and that is closer to a continuous rating. Same goes for the driveline.

Use: The CYC is kinda designed so that you can also pedal it nicely but still have good power the LR drives are really designed not to be able to be pedaled. The tradeoff is the CYC is much more delicate and high strung in order to accomplish that. The LR drives are basically bomb proof and even with very high power levels as long as you setup the drive to back wheel part reasonably well it will be much more reliable.

Install and cost: CYC is plug and play, LR you have to either bring your own controller and such or buy a High Voltage EVs kit. Depending how you do that will start to determine the cost. The LR kit is not hard to install, it's actually very easy but the controller setup and all that does require some effort.

So it really depends what you intend for the bike, which honestly is always the first thing you should be considering before looking at any parts. What is the bike going to do, terrain, speeds, pedal or not, range, what is it going to be really good at, what is it optimized for.

Thanks Guys

Scianiac...I think you hit the nail on the head. LR is for someone that is a little more serious about performance and the CYC is for someone that needs super simple plug and play plus wants to pedal.

I went BBSHD many years ago and it works for me. I think my next bike will either be a LR or a Hub Motor like the Crystallite H55100.