izeman
1 GW
i use connex 908 as well. they wear pretty fast. at least my first one did. we'll see how the next one performs.
LightningRods mid drive kit
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
eTrailster
1 W
Between Chinese new year and the port backups, getting bikes, motors, batteries... in the US is difficult or air-mail expensive.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Yeah, and for years this has been one of the reasons I am a big fan of the non-hub left-side-drive...and also the mid drive like LRs. Making a system modular means that he can switch to another motor supplier if needed, with only a minor change in the interface.
I know almost all brushless PMDC motors are also made in China, but...there are lots of NOS motors on the shelves, but...electricbike hub motors? a trade disagreement can instantly bring shipments to a halt. Astro (as an example) makes expensive motors, but...they are made in the USA using CNC, laser-cut/water-jet...I am waiting for someone to start making hairpin stators in our sizes. BMW makes those with robots...no hand-winding needed.
EPC 497
I know almost all brushless PMDC motors are also made in China, but...there are lots of NOS motors on the shelves, but...electricbike hub motors? a trade disagreement can instantly bring shipments to a halt. Astro (as an example) makes expensive motors, but...they are made in the USA using CNC, laser-cut/water-jet...I am waiting for someone to start making hairpin stators in our sizes. BMW makes those with robots...no hand-winding needed.
EPC 497
LightningRods
1 MW
I would LOVE to stop buying motors from China. It's the most frustrating, anxiety producing part of making my kits. I don't know until the motors arrive what they are going to be and what kind of shape they're going to be in. Trying to get the same motor every time, undamaged, is almost an impossibility.
I was fortunate enough to get six big blocks shipped before the Chinese Spring holiday. They arrived this week looking really good. They're going into 100mm fat bike kits and Lunacycle mid bike drives.
I was fortunate enough to get six big blocks shipped before the Chinese Spring holiday. They arrived this week looking really good. They're going into 100mm fat bike kits and Lunacycle mid bike drives.
sparkz
10 W
Hallelujeh! The Long Wait is over!
LightningRods
1 MW
I've filled six months of back orders in the last two months. We are about 17 kits or approximately 3 weeks from being caught up. 
Current Builds (* denotes completed or nearly completed)
Steven H.*
Jason S.*
Darren Chocolate-Eclair*
Russell T.*
Mitchell D.*
David dV.
Ian McN
Frank J.
Guy B.
Paul Z.
Richard P.
Luan L.
Ian S.
Francisco dZ.
Tim W.
Robert B.
Greg W.
Stephen D.
Brian H.
Rick R.
Mark E.
Clifford B.
Current Builds (* denotes completed or nearly completed)
Steven H.*
Jason S.*
Darren Chocolate-Eclair*
Russell T.*
Mitchell D.*
David dV.
Ian McN
Frank J.
Guy B.
Paul Z.
Richard P.
Luan L.
Ian S.
Francisco dZ.
Tim W.
Robert B.
Greg W.
Stephen D.
Brian H.
Rick R.
Mark E.
Clifford B.
eTrailster
1 W
I didn't seem to make it to the list yet. I guess I'm one of the first of the next cohort. Not a good place. Must exercise patience.
I guess I'm one of the first of the next cohort. Not a good place. Must exercise patience.
LightningRods
1 MW
PM sent.
Cryptic
10 W
I think this has been asked before, but can't seem to find it (apologies)...
How tight should the drive belt be?
How tight should the drive belt be?
LightningRods
1 MW
The primary drive belt should have 1/64" of deflection per inch of belt span. The span on my drive is just over 4.5". So the deflection on my drive belts should be about 1/16" of an inch, measured at the center of the span.
izeman
1 GW
Oh man. It's really time you all start using metric This quarters, eighth and sixteenth stuff combined with decimals makes my brain explode.
This quarters, eighth and sixteenth stuff combined with decimals makes my brain explode.
LightningRods
1 MW
1.5875 millimeters.
izeman
1 GW
LOL. NOW i understandLightningRods said:1.5875 millimeters.
to be honest: it's not that i can't convert imperial to metric. i just don't get the logic behind it when you want to add or subtract, divide or multiply. and 1/4th being less than 3/8th being less than 1/2 ... and so on. very complicated if you're not used to it. that's why i don't understand why someone would want to stick to that system if there is something more easier, especially if you use metric for money (except the quarter dollar) and other things.
LightningRods
1 MW
You won't get an argument from me on this subject. Growing up in the US I had Japanese motorcycles and American made cars. So I grew up with US SAE and metric. I've even built Japanese car based hot rods that had all metric chassis bolts and all SAE bolts on the motor and driveline. It does get confusing.
The US is somewhat converting to metric but there are still billions of dollars of products, tools and equipment based on the old "length of the king's foot" standard. Think of our situation as being the inverse of Europe's multilingual condition. Most Americans only speak one language but we have two standards of measurement. We're "multidimensional".
I can't do the maths on fractions either.
The US is somewhat converting to metric but there are still billions of dollars of products, tools and equipment based on the old "length of the king's foot" standard. Think of our situation as being the inverse of Europe's multilingual condition. Most Americans only speak one language but we have two standards of measurement. We're "multidimensional".
I can't do the maths on fractions either.
Cryptic
10 W
There's no romance in metric.
Good enough for Brunel, Stevenson, Wallace and Whittle - good enough for me
Good enough for Brunel, Stevenson, Wallace and Whittle - good enough for me
LightningRods
1 MW
Ha! Romance in mechanical systems! I was going to say that notion sounds very un-British, but then I remembered the Jaguar XKs.
sascha2770
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2014
- Messages
- 41
LightningRods said:
Hello Michael
Could you please reply to my requests, I'm really in need of some replacement parts, hope you can help me...
Yours sincerely, Alex
LightningRods
1 MW
E-mail sent.
LightningRods
1 MW
Cheekybloke (aka Darren Chocolate-Eclair, aka The Sheik of Sheffield) seems a bit of a madman. He asked that I make a custom 219 chain primary drive for him. He also asked that I fill his big block motor with conductive 'thermal goo'. I think he is planning on running a power substation through this big block. I am going to leave the thermal goo to him but I did concede to his desire for an indestructible chain primary. Because I had the good sense to listen to Spinningmagnets' advice to standardize all of my drive bores at 12mm, all of my various pulleys, sprockets and adapter hubs are interchangeable. This is so simple to do I can't believe that not everyone does it. I was able to fit the 219 adapter plate from my BB assembly to the ACS freewheel threaded onto my 1.375" to 12mm hub adapter. All I had to do to make this work was have a custom jackshaft made with .220" more length to create the correct alignment for the upper sprocket. I ordered a smallest size 64 tooth 219 kart sprocket. It all fits perfect and I have to admit looks pretty cool.
I still believe that belt primary drive is better for most people, but for the power mad determined to outrun cars and motorcycles on their bicycle, 219 primary is the ticket. It's going to be noisier than a belt, and you have to clean and oil it, but it will laugh at 10kW.
Darren's kit is basically done now. He's building a huge Bomber style battery box onto his Giant DH Team to hold all of the batteries this setup is going to need. He's also building his own chain guard so I don't have to mess with that. The guard for the belt primary is too small since the driven pulley is smaller in diameter. I hope he posts a build thread on this bike because it looks like it's going to be a monster.
I still believe that belt primary drive is better for most people, but for the power mad determined to outrun cars and motorcycles on their bicycle, 219 primary is the ticket. It's going to be noisier than a belt, and you have to clean and oil it, but it will laugh at 10kW.
Darren's kit is basically done now. He's building a huge Bomber style battery box onto his Giant DH Team to hold all of the batteries this setup is going to need. He's also building his own chain guard so I don't have to mess with that. The guard for the belt primary is too small since the driven pulley is smaller in diameter. I hope he posts a build thread on this bike because it looks like it's going to be a monster.
sascha2770
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2014
- Messages
- 41
Looks very good Michael.
Thermal Goo?
Has anybody thought about filling those motor with sunflower oil? Or special thermal oil?
Is that thermal goo for better heat absorption?
Or better not touch it, as long as it works?
I'm pushing 75amps peaks (max 10 seconds) through the small block, of course wires get hot, should upgrade to 10awg at least... but the thing that broke was my jackshaft, which I will upgrade with Michael's parts.
Big block should handle the 100 amps peak easily.
Running that thing on 75v@100A will bend your whole bicycle
At 75V@75A my swingarm is being pulled to the right from chainforce... maybe it's just the spring from rear shock which I should choose stronger.
Couldn't see it clearly driving on it (pulled to the right or pushed the spring together?)
Thermal Goo?
Has anybody thought about filling those motor with sunflower oil? Or special thermal oil?
Is that thermal goo for better heat absorption?
Or better not touch it, as long as it works?
I'm pushing 75amps peaks (max 10 seconds) through the small block, of course wires get hot, should upgrade to 10awg at least... but the thing that broke was my jackshaft, which I will upgrade with Michael's parts.
Big block should handle the 100 amps peak easily.
Running that thing on 75v@100A will bend your whole bicycle
At 75V@75A my swingarm is being pulled to the right from chainforce... maybe it's just the spring from rear shock which I should choose stronger.
Couldn't see it clearly driving on it (pulled to the right or pushed the spring together?)
cheekybloke
1 kW
Holy crap Batman,
That looks awesome and bombproof too.
Thermal conductive goo is way more conductive than an air space and would help the motor shed heat faster by connecting the coils to the outer case.
I will post pics as i do it.
Hopefully the custom frame will not twist, it all made from 4mm aluminium with a stainless plate inside to bolt the big block through.
May even try to brace swing arm a bit too.
Super excited for this.
Darren the cheeky sheik eclair bloke
This is my excited face
That looks awesome and bombproof too.
Thermal conductive goo is way more conductive than an air space and would help the motor shed heat faster by connecting the coils to the outer case.
I will post pics as i do it.
Hopefully the custom frame will not twist, it all made from 4mm aluminium with a stainless plate inside to bolt the big block through.
May even try to brace swing arm a bit too.
Super excited for this.
Darren the cheeky sheik eclair bloke
This is my excited face
