LightningRods mid drive kit

LightningRods said:
emaayan said:
he's gonna need it , because in the end, there'll be a lot more users with even less amount of knowledge, less experience,

Alright smart guy. Your motor is on my work bench with it's guts hanging out. Do you want me to stay on here playing high school debate team with you or get that sucker finished and put together? You can't have both.

And I think you're flattering yourself. :wink:


hmm, not really, you'll find it hard to believe , but there are some folks out there, how never took apart a motor and replaced it's hall sensors or it's magnet, nor did they went through the old "cross your fingers and match your phases" game, there are some users, who just .. :oops: gulp buy and install.

besides i was under the impression, that not only your'e stuck waiting for shafts to be returning, but you were seeking advice about the temperature sensor, if you're in the clear don't mind me, i'm trying to watch "dominion" while you people keep interrupting me .. :mrgreen:

LightningRods said:
The motor factory rates these motors at 500 watts so that's what I guarantee that they will withstand continuously. It's been well documented that the GNG motor is happy as a clam at high tide at 1,500 watts. Extreme users have run this motor to 4 kW and beyond and the gossip I hear is that this motor tolerates those power levels very well. I don't guarantee that you can't burn this motor up despite all of it's good qualities. If someone runs enough current through it or lugs it around at low rpm/high loads enough they will probably succeed in killing it. I gave up long ago on the idea that anything is idiot proof.

Spinningmagnets calls my kit a "1,500 watt" kit and he's smart to do so. 50V 30 amps is a very reasonable daily limit for the small block if you want it to live. Many, many people run it much harder but they do so under their own supervision. I personally will be running a 50V 40a limit for starters on my own bike.

well natrually you can't sell this kit as a 500 watt for 800$, cause, people are gonna be like "dude, bafang?"

so 1500 watts puts you up with ecospeed and ego drives ranges, and that makes sense. so i'm kinda debating between 30-40 (40 is a definite limit also because of the battery bms as well), i should re-mention that i don't plan on using this kit on high roads of the desert for a continuous 2000 watts ride , this is still a commute, so those are gonna be like short 2000 watts bursts of a minute or two. just like my excel file shows.
 
LightningRods said:
Spinningmagnets calls my kit a "1,500 watt" kit and he's smart to do so. 50V 30 amps is a very reasonable daily limit for the small block if you want it to live. Many, many people run it much harder but they do so under their own supervision. I personally will be running a 50V 40a limit for starters on my own bike.

Whew! Those are the limits I want to run at, also. Load off my mind. Thanks, LR!
 
I am shopping for a 60 -80 Amp 75V sine wave controller

I don't think that is a good idea in a GNG-sized motor (excessive heat, breaking bicycle chains and sprockets), but I have had a lot of fun by doing risky experiments before, so...the latest sine-wave controllers in the Cromotor threads are the Sabvoton, and the Adaptto.

Sabvoton http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=62240

Adaptto http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183
 
The Sabvo is also on my short list and a sine wave setup. Addapto looks great, but not comfy with the current political situation and potential support interruption issues. I am playing with this stuff and not worried about it lasting long /forever, so exploring the limits is part of the game for me.

Any of these with the LR type setup, makes a super fast light weight motor bike as long as your careful not to melt it.
 
emaayan - I am a little suspicious of your log file. I don't see any correlation between the motor RPM column and the V(olt) and A(mp) columns. I was going to look at RPM versus current and torque (Nm), but the numbers don't make sense. In some samples, you seem to be generating torque (Nm) without using current. Maybe I'm just mis-reading the spreadsheet, but I can't give you any intrepretation of the data. Sorry.
 
sparkz said:
emaayan - I am a little suspicious of your log file. I don't see any correlation between the motor RPM column and the V(olt) and A(mp) columns. I was going to look at RPM versus current and torque (Nm), but the numbers don't make sense. In some samples, you seem to be generating torque (Nm) without using current. Maybe I'm just mis-reading the spreadsheet, but I can't give you any intrepretation of the data. Sorry.

really appreciate you checking...
the motor RPM was one of the only thing i couldn't get from my motor, i wish i could, that WOULD solve a lot problems, i don't know how i can extract that info, i can tell you, that during such a ride, i always start with the first gear, and then a few seconds later switch to the 3rd, m

WAIT, before L-R finishes my motor, does anyone how i can extract that data from it??
 
regarding controllers, if anyone wants to get a different one, and not 48V, ebike suggest
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/controllers.html?SID=ed5f70a1351df4bde68d558152c56b2c
they have automatic hall sensor detection, and since the motor has low rpm, they should be able to match it.
 
Hello,

I need to install the slip on pulley on the GNG 450W motor shaft and Mike recommended using j-B weld.

Well, I can’t find a J-B weld glue in my country, can someone tell if a “regular” metal epoxy will do the job?

Thank you very much.
Rotem
 
the epoxy only needs to keep the slip-on from sliding sideways, I believe any two-part adhesive should work well. 3M DP-420 is much stronger than JB-Weld. It can be ordered over the internet, but it is pricey and requires a holder to squeeze out the two materials properly.
 
Thank you very much for your help...

Currently, the motor is disassembled and I don’t know if to assemble it first and then press the pulley on the shaft or first press the pulley onto the shaft and then assemble the motor, what do you recommend?

Thank you
Rotem
 
Rotems said:
Thank you very much for your help...

Currently, the motor is disassembled and I don’t know if to assemble it first and then press the pulley on the shaft or first press the pulley onto the shaft and then assemble the motor, what do you recommend?

Thank you
Rotem

Rotem-

I apologize for not getting back to you sooner with your questions. I would recommend pressing the GNG steel motor shaft with integral pulley into the motor first. That way there is no chance of damaging my aluminum pulley. You discovered previously that if you try pressing the motor shaft out the front bearing without supporting the bearing flange that the flange will break loose from the case. This is a common problem which I experienced the first time I used our 20 ton shop press. What we do now is to support the bearing flange with a deep socket the same size as the flange. Make certain that the interior of the socket is deep enough to accept the motor shaft. We have also damaged a motor spindle by pressing it out into a socket with insufficient internal clearance to accept the motor shaft.

When reinstalling the motor shaft (in your instance into a replacement motor case) again it is good to support the bearing area of the case from behind rather than relying on the edges of the aluminum case. You can either press the shaft into the bearing and then that assembly into the case, or press the bearing in alone and then the shaft into the bearing. It is all interference fit and requires considerable pressure. Always support the case.

The back motor case can be tapped onto the end of the motor shaft with a mallet. We typically finish pulling the cover into place with the allen cover bolts. Make certain to tighten them in an even cross pattern so that the cover slides onto the motor shaft as straight as possible.

The metal reinforced adhesive may not even be necessary. The aluminum pulley will not slide off once tapped on. Like the motor shaft it is an interference fit, being .002" smaller in internal diameter than the steel GNG motor shaft pulley. My thought with the 'liquid metal' is to form internal splines similar to the splines that my cast plastic pulleys had. This is to prevent the pulley from breaking loose from it's interference fit and spinning under the torque of the motor. A regular two part catalyzed epoxy would almost certainly be adequate if you can't find a metal reinforced type.

When assembling the aluminum pulley to the GNG pulley use a small block of wood to 'drift' the pulley into place. Take care not to hit the pulley flange as it is aluminum as well and somewhat fragile. It's also important not to get any adhesive into the motor bearing when driving the aluminum pulley into place.

One additional step that can be taken is to file a bevel or chamfer onto the end of the GNG pulley to assist it in sliding into the core of the aluminum cover pulley. I installed my aluminum pulley without doing this as have a number of other users. It just makes getting started a bit easier. The steel teeth of the GNG pulley will cut grooves into the softer aluminum as the cover pulley is tapped on.
 
Thank you for the instruction, tomorrow I’m planning to assemble the motor.

I will keep you updated about the results.

Thank you very much
Rotem
 
This just in from Dennis P.

Thank You!

The kit's running great, Mike!

DennisP

DennisP.JPG


You guys have no idea how badly I want this to work for you.
 
LightningRods said:
This just in from Dennis P.

Thank You!

The kit's running great, Mike!

DennisP

DennisP.JPG


You guys have no idea how badly I want this to work for you.

to anyone using the Born Again l-R Lit (code name B.A.R.K) , i'd love to get some stats, like speed, battery used,peak wattage you've reached, range, etc..
 
One of my kits got beat up pretty good during shipping. The customer is returning it to me. I'm going to repair whatever damage it has and put it on my own bike so that I can satisfy some of the requests for video and data. Plus I want to get out and ride before the rain starts again! :D
 
ebike11 said:
Any more videos out there of the LR kit on full throttle on pavement etc.??
What do you mean any MORE :shock:?
 
ebike11 said:
emaayan said:
ebike11 said:
Any more videos out there of the LR kit on full throttle on pavement etc.??
What do you mean any MORE :shock:?

any MORE means anymore
But that means there is alleady at least one. Where?
 
Rotems said:
Thank you for the instruction, tomorrow I’m planning to assemble the motor.

I will keep you updated about the results.

Thank you very much
Rotem

Hello,

I did assemble the motor and it working perfect, the slip on pulley is not perfectly centralized but not something critical.

The problem now is the secondary chain torque force witch I think is greater in 83mm BB.
It seems like that the lower adjustable sheets are not locked and the torque force causes the motor to slide and therefore it’s impossible to get the chain tension.
What is the best way to solve this issue?

Thank you
Rotem
 
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