Lights

Yeah--it's big, Marty. Might fit, if I can find a US dealer. I found plenty of 24V MR16 lamps, but this looks interesting and it's the first 48V LED unit I've seen.

Thanks,

-Cal
 
Cal,
You be the Guinea Pig. Get 48V lights and let me know how they light up?
I download catalog here:
http://www.smhco.com/pdf/2006_catalog/1-S%26A2006.pdf
Big file takes a long time to download. See lots of lights for forklifts.
Find same looking light here:
http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/forward_lighting/model_700_LED3.html
Also might want to contact scooter parts people and see what they got?
Also contact manufacturers of bike lights and ask if their lights can be converted to run on 48V?
Also do some searching on the internet. If you not good at searching? Have a little kid help you.
Go here to see big list of bike light manufactures.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=176131
Lots of lumens is good. Want low watts and amps. Don't forget about red lights for the rear of bicycle. Glad to have you working for me :)
 
A 12v light and a cheap converter might be easier to find.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2264
 
Fletcher, Yeah--I thought about reducing the the voltage, but the idea of carrying around and stowing another little box isn't very appealing. If I can buy or design something that fits into the light housing, that might be okay.

Marty, Fork lift suppliers! Wow--I would never have thought of them and they never popped up in any of my searches. Thanks for the links! I don't know what I'll try yet (2x24v, 48v, HID, LED, tungsten-halogen) but I'll let you know the results. The "LED Oval Work Lamp" on page 1.56 looks very interesting. 240 lumens from ~25 watts could be sweet. The Speaker claims an even higher 500 lumens from the same power and same enclosure. Given that fork lifts run at a slight "overvoltage," I hope my new 48V LiFeP04 pack will work with it.

Or how about a 24V pair (one trap and one spot pattern) of these HIDs?
http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/forward_lighting/model_8450.htm Higher power but look at the candlepower of HID!

Seems that I have many choices--limited only by finding a dealer who does retail, no doubt.

> Why am I building a electric bicycle?

Probably because the bike you want doesn't exist! I'm tweaking my first E-bike now and I bought most of my components from Electric Rider. Though I'm happy overall with the products, I'm finding compelling improvements everywhere (gearing, rim, spokes, weatherproofing, etc.). Fortunately, the topic of improvements seems to be a big part of the E-S forums.

Thanks,

-Cal
 
I ordered the JW Speaker 500 lm LED light from here:

http://www.oviedosafetylights.com/Shopping.idc?ProductID=120&ProductCategory=&keyword=Deutsch+DT06-2

The sales rep said it weighs about 2 lbs. They don't stock any of the models with switches and she said it just has a wire "pigtail" coming out--no Deutsch connector.

It may be a bit large and heavy for a bike, but I figure it's about right for an E-bike. :) The 12 V to 48 V operation is a big plus and the rep said they've had no returns for field failures, despite many abusive environments. She said they are very bright and customers have been very happy with them. She did not have any data on beam pattern. I think JW Speaker is really the one to blame for this and the lack of other specs (like the weight).

I'll just have to wait and report the results. The only thing I have for comparison is the 100 W halogen light on my Kawasaki ZX-9R motorcycle.
 
calinb said:
From the graphs and the specs I've read, LEDs are not terribly efficient so has anyone tried flourescent?
LEDs are very efficient now. IIRC HID, flour, and LED are all in a similar efficiency range. Looks like that chart cuts off about ten years ago, and the "semiconductor" line has probably moved way up in that time. I think this chart is tailored to city or warehouse lighting, but I'm assuming the metal halide line includes fixtures that use HID technology and the semiconductor line means LED tech.
 
marty said:
Still need red light on the back of your bike? Only if you worry about being killed by a car?
Yeah--that's a concern but rear lights don't need to produce nearly as much light as front lights so I'm probably going to run my penlight powered LED rears for now. I'm really looking forward to having a bright headlamp. I hit a deer on my commute about six years ago. I was doing about 60mph on my old Buell motorcycle and I was lucky to get "only" a 4th degree shoulder separation out of it. The other two people I've known who've hit deer on motorcycles did much worse--one was in traction for 6 months and the other guy died! Even at 30 or 40 mph a deer or elk would be very bad news for me on my E-bike!

vanilla ice said:
LEDs are very efficient now. IIRC HID, flour, and LED are all in a similar efficiency range.
Good to hear, considering I just paid $150+ for an LED unit. 500 lumens for 25 W seemed pretty good to me so I bought it just on that spec. Hopefully, it won't disappoint in practice.

-Cal
 
After researching I chose the Lithium Cygolite Dual Cross (now there is the 'Dual Cross Pro') as the most powerful, smallest I could find under $200. The brightest HID were $250 -- $600. My light is just barely good enough for 20 -- 30 mph on mountain paved roads. The two LED lights are aimed slightly different from each other to achieve
extra illumination of the road surface. Simple, functional looks great! There are a ton of less expensive lights but I tend to buy high end, take care of it and have it for years. REI has it and I like REI and its warranty but I saved $40 by buying it online elsewhere.
http://www.cygolite.com/2-Products/1-DualCross-LiIon.htm
 
vanilla ice said:
calinb said:
From the graphs and the specs I've read, LEDs are not terribly efficient so has anyone tried flourescent?
LEDs are very efficient now. IIRC HID, flour, and LED are all in a similar efficiency range. Looks like that chart cuts off about ten years ago, and the "semiconductor" line has probably moved way up in that time. I think this chart is tailored to city or warehouse lighting, but I'm assuming the metal halide line includes fixtures that use HID technology and the semiconductor line means LED tech.

It looks to me like it is the cream of the crop including "lab results" from 2000.

Most LEDs you find in the "incandescent replacement" crap runs 30 Lm/W, single 1-3W LED flashlights run 60 Lm/W, and commercially available LEDs max out at 100Lm/W.

That being said non of the numbers includes losses, so drop 20% for GOOD optics and probably 40% for anything coming off the reflector. Published numbers are what comes from the source, not the assembly.

A wise man realizes that there is no such thing as a truth in advertising. The purpose of an add id to convince you that you either must have something you do not need or that product A is better than products B, C, and D.

A 50W HID only puts out 850 Lm (17 Lm/W) and more than 25% is lost to the reflector (~75% of the light comes from the reflector at probably 60% reflectance)

At that rate 6 100 Lm Luxeon Rebels driven at 700mA for 180Lm with 80% transmittance optics will put out that much light for 18W.

Dan
 
Hey Dan... long time no, uh whatever...

Glad you could chime in.

I'm interested in LED replacements for EV (automobile) headlights.

Suggestions?
 
hi

i'm thinking of upgrading my lights because someone pulled out in front of me the other day!

whats best for safety a 16deg or a 36deg arc of light?
and will 35 watt MR16's melt?
 
I am running DeWalt packs at 72v (really 66v), and I was looking into putting 3 24v 20w halogens in series to use as headlights. I have a couple questions:

-what wattage bulbs should I go for considering there will be three of them?

-will the lights work properly at 66v even though they will be rated at 72v (3 in series)?


thanks!
 
just run the lights off one dewalt pack and then the voltage is lower.
 
LED lighting is moving quickly as Cree is now at 100+ lumens per watt. (bin code R2) Presently, I am in the process of building a four Cree bin code Q5 LED "2D Mag" (actually 9.6V eight AA NiMH in series) The thing will put out 800 lumens with the four LEDs being driven at 9.5 watts. It is using Fraen FRC faceted reflectors and a borofloat lens for maximum output. The Cree XR-E LEDs throw a 70 degree beam without optics so the loss is lower.

Cree has demonstrated a LED that pushes 1,050 lumens at around 24V. Not the most efficient thing around but it would make a real headlight viable. The LED should be available Q4 2008 and Cree is good about their projections concerning ship times (unlike everyone else)

My build I am working on is based on the AeroEnvironment Charger electrically assisted bike. My plan is a 24V 40Ah LiFePO4 pack pushing the BMC brushless motor at 30 to 35 amps through the 7-speed internal hub. The 1000+ lumen Cree LEDs would be a nice addition to the project. For you 48V people, just wire two of them in series. :twisted:
 
EVnewbie said:
Cree has demonstrated a LED that pushes 1,050 lumens at around 24V. Not the most efficient thing around but it would make a real headlight viable. The LED should be available Q4 2008 and Cree is good about their projections concerning ship times (unlike everyone else)

Excellent info, Thanks!


:D
 
I've put about 2 hours on the JW Speaker LED light now. I'll try to find time to take some pictures. Bob's light looks like it might be worth a try too, but it needs an external power supply. See this "Headlights" thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2070&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=104

-Cal
 
calinb,
Re: Model 700 LED, 3" X 5" LED OVAL WORK LAMP
Please tell me, how does the light shine? Is it bright? Does it light up the road in front of you? Or does it shine light to the top of the trees? How many volts are you using?

BIKE came yesterday. Got to open the box. Got BATTERY

Need motor, lights, etc to complete Electric Bike Project # 2

Forum has changed. Text style seems gay? Not sure how to change it? If page width stops getting real wide because some giant monitor, large image person, uploads huge pictures. All is good?
 
Hi Marty.

The JW Speaker 700 is bright but it's not a spot. It does light up the trees and bushes on the sides of the road. The JW Speaker 700 is rated at 500 lumens so it's probably not as bright as Bob's light in the thread I linked above. One day I'll meet Bob and compare the lights.

I'm running from my Yesa 48V LiFeP04 directly (~53V). JW Speaker told me the light can handle up to 60V. No extra power supply required, like with Bob's HID light.

I drilled a larger hole in this clamp and installed an aircraft flat head AN509-8R12 screw to hold the light:

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2198

I put a velcro strap around this switch and wrapped it around the side of the 700 mount:

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2656

I'll try to find time to take some pictures.

-Cal
 
I'm thinking of trying a red cold cathode PC case light as my "brake light" on my scooter. I wonder if it will vibrate apart, guess I'll find out.
 
Maybe not such a good idea to have high voltages out in the open. If you can enclose the transformer and wires in a compartment or container then it should work, but I'd still be wary.
 
Good point. I think I'll try a 6v bulb with a 6v flasher in my meci 99 cent tail light housing instead. I have a 6v toppeak led blinky headlight to go with it. That way I wont get zapped by 600 volts.
 
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