LiPo battery care and basic information

12S is 48 volts (44 volt nominal). So, 44 X 50AH = 2.2KWH. :D

I will have a good 2kwh usable battery power. That should be good for 100 miles if normal riding or 75 to 80 miles of hard riding.

30 pounds of Lipo anyone?!

Matt
 
recumpence said:
12S is 48 volts (44 volt nominal). So, 44 X 50AH = 2.2KWH. :D

I will have a good 2kwh usable battery power. That should be good for 100 miles if normal riding or 75 to 80 miles of hard riding.

30 pounds of Lipo anyone?!

Matt

where did you find 10aH lipos? I thought you were using 5Ah lipos - sorry.

What connector will you use for parallel? or just fashion your own?
Tips appreciated. thanks.
 
Holy-Cow, I am so retarded........

I have gotten used to my 10AH recumbent cells.

OK, yes, you are correct, I am using 5AH lipos. My pack is 12S 10P. So, a total of 120 five amp/hour cells.

Alright, now that we got that sorted out! :mrgreen:


As for connecting cells together, I ballance them individually, charge them, then solder them together. Too many connectors cause resistance in the system and add failure points.

Matt
 
LiPo Newbee question - I'm purchasing 3 turnigy 18.5 volt 5S1P 5 AH packs and planning to connect in series to power my 48 volt X5303 bike - I also purchased the Turnigy Accucell - 8150 charger / balancer. I plan on charging each pack separately. Question what's the recommended max charging and discharging voltage for these packs. Reason for the question is 18.5 volt / 5 pack = 3.7 volts per pack - I read in an earlier post it was safe to charge up to 4.2 volts per pack and discharge to 2.7. Thanks for any help!
 
Hi Spanky,
You don't have to set the charger voltages. Just input the number of cells in the pack (5S) and the charger will take care of the voltage. You can also set the charging current. It is not recommended to charge over 1C, 5A in your case.
You just connect the pack's main wires and the balancing tap to the charger, select LiPo charging, select 5s 5A (or less) and go.
I would not recommend discharging the cells to 2.7v. 3.0v should be your limit. It will extend the life of the pack.
Just a few remarks, a 5Ah pack wont get you very far. The minimum I would consider would be 10Ah. I have a 16Ah pack on my scooter, and I would like to have 20-25.
Some chargers have a feature where they measure the pack's voltage in the middle of the charge cycle to check that the pack is charging. Since the bigger cells take longer to charge, their voltage rises slowly, and the charger will think they are defective. You can set when the charger tests the pack in the charger settings. I think I set mine to 45min-1hour from the start of charging.
 
Thanks Dave - one more question - when connecting the 3 18.5 volt packs in series is there any special that's required? I'm planning on connecting in series like you would for SLA's. I'm starting out with 5AH to experiment and get my feet wet. I use my bike to mostly commute to work 25 miles each way, I've been using heavey 4 18AH SLA's and also peddle a bit! On my commute I usually consume about 8 to 9 AH's from the SLA's. If I have a 10AH LiPo pack can I expect to get 9 AH's out of them? Thanks again for the info!!

Spanky
 
For those interested, I'm doing a new LVC-only series of boards that are really geared towards LiPos, but can also be used for LiFePO4-based packs as well. This one can handle up to 24s, broken down into four 6s "tearoff" sections. Each of these sections has pads for up to three 2.5mm (.100") 7-pin JST-XH board-mounted connectors, for mounting on top, or on the bottom of the board. These come with either vertical or 90-degree mounting angles. The idea is that you can connect the balance connectors from, say, two parallel LiPo packs and still have one more that can be used for a balancer. This way, once the packs are properly connected, they don't have to be disconnected to balance/charge the packs. Less chance for F-Ups. :)

There's also an onboard active cutoff "tearoff" section, in addition to the normal controller ebrake opto outputs. This active cutoff section has provisions for up to four high-power, low RDS on resistance, like the IRFB4110s we all use in controllers. This will allow for some pretty high power setups, for those that prefer not to use the opto-controller brake connections. With some thickening of the traces, and some big-ass wires, 200A+ is certainly doable, I think. For my stuff, I only use two FETs, as most of my setups rarely go over 100A.

Here's a couple cell-phone pics of the first of these boards, which are 6.5" x 2":

View attachment 6-24 Channel LVC v3.3-02.jpg

View attachment 6-24 Channel LVC v3.3-03.jpg


Actually, I think the PCB drawing file shows a bit more:

View attachment 24-Cell LVC-v3.3-PCB.png


I'm also doing a new widget that I'm calling a "charge balancer". Basically, it is in between a standalone balancer, and a BMS-like shunt regulator. It will work without the charger connected, but only down to a certain point, just below the cell's "full" voltage level, after the surface charge burnoff. For LiPos this is around 3.75V-3.80V and for LiFePO4, its around 3.36V-3.38V. With the charger connected, it acts pretty much like a standard BMS shunt circuit, but the shunt is turned on a bit earlier, and it comes on gradually, instead of all at once. From the pretty extensive tests I've been doing with the prototypes, it tends to keep the shunts from getting swamped all at once. My first prototype unit, shown in the pics below, didn't have any sort of throttling logic, so the overall circuit is much simpler. What I found is that with my a123-based packs, and a 4.5A charger, the typical "overshoot" was about 3.75-3.80V, for healthy cells, that stay fairly well balanced. The worst case I saw was with cells that I purposely had way out-of-balance (from empty to completely full...) and the full ones hit about 3.92V, before settling back down to about 3.70-3.75V, when the low cells finally caught up. Anyway, with a123s, I don't worry about overcharging them a bit, even frequently. Most of my cells are 2-3 years old, and still going strong, and I abused the hell out of them. With LiPos, however, overcharging is definitely not something to tolerate, so what I did was added the basic throttling back in, but left out the automatic cutoff function, which adds a helleva lot of circuit complexity. By keeping this part simpler, I was able to add a bit more functionality to the channel circuitry. Each channel has its own red-green LED, which comes on red as soon as the cell voltage rises above the normal "nominal" voltage (about 3.38V for LiFePO4s and about 3.80V for LiPos...), which only happens when the charger is connected. Once the shunts start to conduct (LiFePO4: 3.58V; LiPo: 4.05V...), the LED color will transition from red to green, becoming fully green when the shunt is fully on (LiFePO4: 3.70V; LiPo: 4.19V...). Here's some pics of my initial prototype unit, which is 16-channels, and mounted in a small extruded aluminum box:

View attachment CMS Lite-03.jpg

The shunt resistors mount from the bottom of the board, and make thermal contact with the bottom of the case, turning the whole box into a heat sink. I used 10 ohm/2W shunt resistors, which ends up supplying about 350mA of shunt current. 16 channels of this generates a fair amont of heat in a box this size, not enough to melt plastic, but hot enough you wouldn't want to hold on to it very long. :D

View attachment CMS Lite-04.jpg


Here's a shot of it connected and working with a 15s4p a123 pack:

View attachment CMS Lite-05.jpg


This was the first full charge for this pack, which was made from 15 4p blocks that were of varying SOC levels, from about 1/2 full, to already full. It took several hours, but eventually it balanced out just fine, and now, after 4-5 cycles, the cells stay within about .05V of each othre, if I don't run the pack down to LVC cutoff.

I've got a new version I'm going to start testing in the next week or so, that includes the throttling, and has 12-channels. I'll do one version for LiFePO4 and one for LiPos. Here's what the layout looks like:




This one is sized for the regular 6.8 ohm shunt resistors, but it will go in the next size up of extruded aluminum box. I'm still trying to sort out the connector issue, because what I realy wan is to have one multipin plug, that then plugs into the pack/LVC board/harness. Using two 7-pin plugs leaves open the possibility of swapping the two, which will fry some wires.

Anyway, I will probably start a new thread for this effort, once I get some more data to report, but I've had quite a few unrelated inquiries about this type of setup for LiPos.

-- Gary
 
Very nice - I like it :) There is very little in the market catering for 12S.

I'm only using 6S at the moment (lithium cobalt, Samsung ICR18650-26A, 4P6S (10AH) out of laptop battery packs) - and using a Chargery CY-B6+, with the charger switching running a much larger mosfet to allow more than 6A for the pack - I could charge these at 20A, but I wont. Interestingly enough, the datasheet for these cells states that they have a 100% capacity when charged at 0.2C, 95% at 0.5C, 90% at 1C and 80% at 2.0C. Don't know why.
 
does someone know which are best value performing batteries? a123s vs dewalts?
I'd like fast recharging, 20-50minutes. lightweight...

is Gary still building similar based packs to forum members here? or other certain members?
 
I am going to start playing with some lipo's that I managed to get cheap these are only rated at 15c what I would like to know is by reading through this thread never discharge a cell below 2.7v say 3v to be on the safer side but is it posible that the cells can sag lower than this or is the 2.7v the absolute minimum they should ever go :?:
Thanks.
 
Hi,

A super newbie question :oops:

I have a Cyclone 24V 500w motor, witch lipo pack should I use? 11.1 V packs two in series would give me 22.2v or 4S of 7.4v = 29.6V. I don’t find a pack that would give me 24v. :?:

Also, can lipo packs be charged in parallel, so I plug the whole 24V pack to the charger, or I have to charger each pack individually?

I am using a sla pack of four 12V 12A batteries, and I can’t achieved a top speed of more than 32km/h, Paco at Cyclone TW told me this motor should top at 48km/h. I want to use lipos so I can have a much lighter pack and a better top speed.
 
OK, actually, 6 lipo cells will give you a touch over 25 volts hot off the charger and will settle into 24 volts for most of the charge. 22 volts is what the pack is when it needs a recharge or what it may drop to under heavy load.

Also, yes, you can parrallel packs together to charge or even to run. I am running 12 cells in series with 6 cells parralleled (120 cells total). Lipos love to be series/paralleled.

Matt
 
Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to ask, What is the best voltage to store lipo batteries at?

I've purchased a new set of turnergy lipos 20c 22.2v 5ah. I fully charged each one and noticed from factory they are about 50-55% charged.

Is this the best way to store lipo batteries that are not in use say for 6mth +?

thanks

-steveo
 
gwhy! said:
I am going to start playing with some lipo's that I managed to get cheap these are only rated at 15c what I would like to know is by reading through this thread never discharge a cell below 2.7v say 3v to be on the safer side but is it posible that the cells can sag lower than this or is the 2.7v the absolute minimum they should ever go :?:
Thanks.


The low voltage damage to the battery only occurs from the state of charge of the battery dropping to the point that the Lithium under goes a chemical change of state, which damages the cells.

This means whatever the pack drops down to under discharge is not important, as long as that resistive thermal energy isn't building up to exceed the cells safe temps.

You only need to care about resting voltage for concern about hurting the batteries from over-discharge.

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
steveo said:
Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to ask, What is the best voltage to store lipo batteries at?

I've purchased a new set of turnergy lipos 20c 22.2v 5ah. I fully charged each one and noticed from factory they are about 50-55% charged.

Is this the best way to store lipo batteries that are not in use say for 6mth +?

thanks

-steveo

Nominal voltage is the optimal storage voltage for all lithium based cells. For LiCo, 3.7v. For LiMnCo, 3.6v. For LiFePO4, 3.2v. This is the voltage at which the cell has the slowest rate of deterioration over time.

If you plan to keep them stored for an extended period, drop to about 3.8-3.9v, then throw them in the freezer. The temp change will drop the resting voltage to nominal, and the chart I saw for some LiCo polymer cells at 28degF showed something like 12 years shelf-life to 80% capacity. It was 3 years at 70degF.
 
liveforphysics said:
steveo said:
Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to ask, What is the best voltage to store lipo batteries at?

I've purchased a new set of turnergy lipos 20c 22.2v 5ah. I fully charged each one and noticed from factory they are about 50-55% charged.

Is this the best way to store lipo batteries that are not in use say for 6mth +?

thanks

-steveo

Nominal voltage is the optimal storage voltage for all lithium based cells. For LiCo, 3.7v. For LiMnCo, 3.6v. For LiFePO4, 3.2v. This is the voltage at which the cell has the slowest rate of deterioration over time.

If you plan to keep them stored for an extended period, drop to about 3.8-3.9v, then throw them in the freezer. The temp change will drop the resting voltage to nominal, and the chart I saw for some LiCo polymer cells at 28degF showed something like 12 years shelf-life to 80% capacity. It was 3 years at 70degF.

Really? I could just put them in the freezer With cells charged at around 50-55% of the cells capasity? this will result in 12yrs shelf life?...

is this option avaliable to other lithium chemistries as well?

-steveo
 
liveforphysics said:
If you put a LiPo pack in the oven and over-voltaged it to blow it up, it would be fine. Oven would be a great place to charge, good idea.

You mentioned a Ping pack. For energy storage, it's fine. About twice the weight and bulk of LiPo for the same energy storage, but still fine. Now, lets talk about POWER differences. This is what LiPo is all about.

Let's choose Ping's biggest battery, the 48v 20Ah. This is a 2c battery, which tells us that this pack can discharge at 40amps. This battery weighs 20lbs, and can discharge at 1920w.

How much weight in LiPo do you need to match that?
Not picking anything fancy, just economical 30c zippy LiPo packs from hobby city, we can work out what it takes to equal the power of the biggest Ping pack in LiPo. What does it take? It just takes a single tiny 4cell 5Ah zippy pack, and it can all ready sustain 2200w VS the Ping battery 1920w, but the big difference is weight. The LiPo battery is just 1.2lbs vs the 20lbs of Ping battery! Yup, that's about 17 times the power density. It's also about the size of a regular non-flip-type cell phone, VS the size of a couple stacked shoeboxes. If you are looking for energy storage, lead-acid, LiFePO4, NiMH all offer energy storage at low prices if you don't mind a lot of weight and bulk. However, if you are looking for performance and power with a reasonable cost, nothing matches LiPo.

Just incase anyone wanted more specs on the battery I choose to compare power to the biggest Ping pack, here is a link. It's not anything special, just the upper model of zippy LiPo.



http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8588&Product_Name=ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_4S1P_30C_

I'm lost, .... 14volts X 3 = 45 volts. 5AH X 4 = 20 AH. That means 12 of these units roughly equals a ping 48 V 20 AH. Each of these 12 units weighs over 500 grams. About 15 lbs. or so? Or did I miss something mighty big?
 
It's more to do with how much battery you need to achieve a certain level of power output. 20ah of any battery type is going to have some heft to it, but you only need 14s1p of the zippy lipo to dwarf the power output of the larger ping pack. Not exactly practical though, that's why I have a ping pack still. I may get some lipo for a short trip, joy ride, low weight, leave on the bike type pack. Once the charging and balancing issues get an easy, affordable solution I hope to use lipo for my main pack as well.
 
So I for one want to post on this thread so I can watch it. And 2 have a couple questions
With lipo batteries is it safe to run them in series? And in this config is it sefe to use regen? And where is the best place to buy these?
I was just on hobby citys website and the Turnigy battery prices look amazing! Any advice would be great! Thanks
 
17 times the energy density?

I think you have miscalculated or you are onto one of the greatest discoveries in battery tech yet.

You would need 4 packs, of the one's you suggested, to equal a ping 48 (56v actual)

And for capacity 4 times that. 5000mah = 5ah x 4 = 20ah

I believe that totals 16 packs with a total weight of 8416g. Ping battery is 9900g.

A battery that can burst all of it's power at once is not that useful on a machine made to stretch that power over hours and not risk burning your 3 decker home down at the end of the day.

Correct me where I am wrong because I will fire proof my kids playhouse if you are correct :wink:
 
Hello,

You are correct in regards to total amp hour capacity vs weight however a Lipo from even HobbyKing Turnigy Packs can deliver between 20-30C @ 5AH - 100-150@15 Second Peaks A Current Draw through the entire lifespan (the full 5AH).

The thing your missing is that if you built an equiv AH Lipo pack in place of the Ping Pack... with a 20AH Lipo @ 20-30C that would mean you could pull up to (20 * 20) 400 amps nominal max or 600 amps peak.

I think your ping can do max of 2C or 40 Amps MAXIMUM. Even at that I imagine the voltage drop on the Ping pack is very wide (based on others posts).

So a lipo pack of 20AH would give you far more energy potential that the same ping pack:

20 AH Ping Pack @ 2C = 40A Max Draw
20 AH Lipo Pack @ 20C = 400 Amps Max Continous / 600 Amps Peak for 15 Seconds.

In wattage that works out to:
56v * 300A = 16800 Watts or 22.4 hp
56v * 40 A = 2240 Watts or 2.98 hp

So as you can see for slightly less weight you gain 10X the current load capacity and therefore as indicated above the higher voltage combined with the higher amps you have far more watts of play.

Now if you discharge at the same 40A rate of your ping pack you may or may not see voltage sag under discharge but measure the mah you can spend with the PING at this load or even at 20 amps (1/2C) you will find a Lipo pack will deliver 1C - 2C without a loss of range or voltage sag.

It's all your call, and Lipo can be dangerous without proper charge / storage / discharge but you really can't get close to its power abilities with any other chemistry that I know of yet (perhaps maybe Lithium Air will be close but they won't hit market for 2-5 years)

-Mike
 
mwkeefer said:
It's all your call, and Lipo can be dangerous without proper charge / storage / discharge but you really can't get close to its power abilities with any other chemistry that I know of yet (perhaps maybe Lithium Air will be close but they won't hit market for 2-5 years)

-Mike

Lithium Air's advantage is energy density, not power density.
 
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