LiPo explosion !!!

Of course any battery storing significant energy poses a certain danger and should be handled with respect, but it's just silly to suggest that these RC Lipo packs are just as safe as packs made with A123 M1 cells. I'd like to see a single case where an A123 cell flamed out just sitting there at full or nearly full charge for several weeks at room temperature. Lipos can and do, and I've seen it first hand. It's not just during charging or use that Lipos pose a risk. They require special storage consideration too. I have no doubt that they're safer than they used to be, but they still carry a significantly higher inherent risk.

This increased fire risk isn't going to stop me from continuing to buy and use the Lipo RC packs, but I'd venture to say that my ability to park bikes in a ventilated area away from combustible materials is rare.

I'd have no problem at all selling someone an ebike that had an A123 battery pack or a Konion pack, but there's not a chance in hell I sell anyone an ebike with a Lipo pack.
 
amberwolf said:
I wouldn't call that "improperly used", but rather simply defective as a pack (because of connection failure or BMS failure). Typically an end user (one without the experiences we have) is going to expect (assuming no manufacturer instructions to the contrary) to be able to plug the thing in to charge it till the light goes green, unplug it and ride off till it runs out of power (BMS cuts off LVC, etc.), plug it in to recharge it till teh light goes green, ride, etc.
Agreed. "improperly used" was poorly chosen. But the problem is still with the BMS and NOT with the battery. The logical conclusion would be to not buy a battery pack from that seller or to not buy any battery pack using that BMS.

To repeat what several have already said: All energy storage systems have a certain level of built in danger. But that danger level varies from one battery chemistry to the next. The goal is to choose the right chemistry for the application with the lowest risk of fire and explosion.
 
John in CR said:
I'd have no problem at all selling someone an ebike that had an A123 battery pack or a Konion pack, but there's not a chance in hell I sell anyone an ebike with a Lipo pack.

I would say this statement is summarizing the state of mind of many of us here in the forum ... 8)

have fun!
 
SamTexas said:
But the problem is still with the BMS and NOT with the battery. The logical conclusion would be to not buy a battery pack from that seller or to not buy any battery pack using that BMS.

Ohh yeah? Was it his BMS that burst into flames, or the LiFePO4 cells? The BMS just failed to function correctly (as BMS's very often do), and the battery was what burst into flames and burned.

SamTexas said:
The goal is to choose the right chemistry for the application with the lowest risk of fire and explosion.

I tend to think the goal is to find something that stores your energy and meets your power needs in as small and light of a space as possible. Then respect it and treat it properly.

John in CR said:
I'd have no problem at all selling someone an ebike that had an A123 battery pack or a Konion pack, but there's not a chance in hell I sell anyone an ebike with a Lipo pack.


I agree 100% with this my man, if we're talking RC LiPo at least. Keep in mind, aside from Tesla (who is married to an 18650 for cost reasons), all major OEM EV's have selected LiPo to power them.

There are NMC LiPo cells that blow away the safety of LiFePO4, along with having much better energy and power density.
 
liveforphysics said:
SamTexas said:
But the problem is still with the BMS and NOT with the battery. The logical conclusion would be to not buy a battery pack from that seller or to not buy any battery pack using that BMS.

Ohh yeah? Was it his BMS that burst into flames, or the LiFePO4 cells? The BMS just failed to function correctly (as BMS's very often do), and the battery was what burst into flames and burned.
Of course it is. If the BMS was functioning then the cells would not have gotten hot in the first place. Your logic seems to suggest that if I throw a battery into a fire and the battery catches fire or explodes then it's the battery's problem.
 
Alan B said:
If the battery bursts into flame when the BMS fails, we have a problem Houston. Can't call it completely safe then, can we. Back to Nicads then.
There's no such thing as a "completely safe" battery, NiCd included.
 
SamTexas said:
Agreed. "improperly used" was poorly chosen. But the problem is still with the BMS and NOT with the battery.
Though that is partially true, the fact remains that some of the batteries, almost certainy including that one of Lyen's, have cells that fail in a way that leads to this problem. If the BMS fails to detect the problem, then it's a poor design for that type of cell, but it still doesnt' change that the cell itself did fail in a way that leads to draining all the others in parallel with it. This is what happened in my own packs, and I suspect that if my BMS had not cut off the pack from use, the same thing would have happened to me--the cells would have reversed, heated extremely, and caused a fire. Might not have been the cells themselves burning, but it doesn't matter.

Of course, it could be said that it's *still* not the cell's fault, and that it is the fault of the pack builder for using flammable materials around it, rather than something that would not melt or ignite *when* cells failed in such a way as to heat up that much. ;)


The logical conclusion would be to not buy a battery pack from that seller or to not buy any battery pack using that BMS.
I won't disagree with that conclusion, but it does not cover all of the problems discovered in that fire. It only covers the BMS's failure to detect a problem.

Also, remember that VERY few purchasers of these packs will know anything at all about them other than what the advertiser says about them (just like every other product out there), and most are not going to do any research on it, even if they knew how and knew what they were looking for.

Most sellers of such packs are not going to know what BMS is in there, even if you know what to ask. Some of them probably wouldn't tell you even if they did know, because it's too much work to answer questions like that, and they lose money spending time on people that ask questions. Very few ads that I have seen for packs say or show what BMS is in there.

There's also no list of which BMS causes what kind of problem, even here on ES, much less elsewhere on the web. Heck, I don't even know what kind of BMS is in the pack that caught fire--it's not actually in the thread itself, AFAICT in a very quick glance-thru, other than a pic of it still shrink-wrapped.


Another issue is that there's no way to know (before buying) which BMSs work in the same way as that one, to avoid them, even if we know that a particular pack uses a particular BMS (whcih as pointed out above is very hard to find out before you have it in your hands). The sellers don't know, and again: even if they did they may not tell you.



To repeat what several have already said: All energy storage systems have a certain level of built in danger. But that danger level varies from one battery chemistry to the next. The goal is to choose the right chemistry for the application with the lowest risk of fire and explosion.
Certainly. But since the actual risk is not *just* with the chemistry itself, but also with the support electronics working as needed to prevent the problems (without user intervention), it becomes very difficult to say which one is "safest".

LiCo, one of the most volatile of these chemistries, is *THE* most widely-used type in the whole world. It is in every class of device that I know of, except possibly UPSs, and is probalby used in those, too, somewhere. But the electronics are designed so that it (almost) never reaches conditions that cause the fires we have seen. Yet, it does still happen, in every class of device. Phones and laptops both have had videos on YT and elsewhere of simply suddenly bursting into flames, while in use or just sitting there charging.

The fires are much more common with the LiCo (LiPo) RC packs, but remember that almost no one that uses these packs is using them with such restrictive safety electronics, so that they can get much more useful capacity from them for their size/weight. Thus, they are more likely to end up in conditions that are unsafe, and they are usually charged and discharged at much higher rates than the other LiCo. Even if designed for that, it still changes the conditions enough that without the more severe restrictions on LVC/HVC, you wind up with more average occurences of excursions outside the safe range that then damage the packs, causing the fires during recharge or in use.

There are of course other contributing factors: LiCo RC packs are bought from the cheapest source by most poeple, regardless of known "quality problems", EVEN THOUGH THEY KNOW BETTER. Look around here on ES for many examples with HobbyKing. ;)

LiCo consumer device packs are purchased by the major OEMs from the cheapest *safe* source--they are not likely to just go with the very cheapest stuff they can find, because they do know that there is a certain level of manufacturing quality and pre-screening required to get the dud cells out before they end up in something that could burn a house down. It does probably still happen from time to time, and you end up with problems like the Sony/Apple/etc battery recall of a few years ago.


Remember that I am trying to speak from the viewpoint of the average consumer, and not someone that has the experience that I actually do with batteries, as well as the things I've seen here on ES and elsewhere. ;) The average consumer doesnt' know a thing about batteries other than that they are inside many devices, and that sometimes they ahve to be recharged or replaced. Typically they don't even know *when* those things should be done, until the device either tells them to do it, or simply doesn't work anymore. :lol: This includes ebikes and EVs, and is one reason so many of us try to get noobs here to buy a wattmeter of some kind.
 
amberwolf said:
LiCo, one of the most volatile of these chemistries, is *THE* most widely-used type in the whole world. It is in every class of device that I know of, except possibly UPSs, and is probalby used in those, too, somewhere.


It's funny you mention that. A week ago I sat through a meeting with Paladium energy (a teir1 pack builder for OEM's, but not a cell mfg). They had some charts that showed overwhelmingly LiCoO2 batteries had the absolutely lowest rate of incident of any battery type used in consumer products.

The reason of course has roughly nothing to do with LiCoO2 chemistry being safe or unsafe, but rather because there are thousands of LiCoO2 batteries in the world for every non-LiCoO2 battery used in consumer products. If you have perhaps 1,000 incidents per year involving LiCoO2 batteries, and 10 incidents per year involving LiFePO4 (or others), you're still going to end up showing LiCoO2 as orders of magnitude safer, because there are hundreds of millions of LiCoO2 batteries in use everyday vs maybe hundreds of thousands of LiFePO4 batteries (that's being very generous to LiFePO4).
 
I also love the folks typing about how dangerous LiCoO2 based chemistry is, and how they would never use them, yadda yadda, WHILE TYPING ON THERE LAPTOP OR PHONE POWERED BY LiCoO2. lol
 
Apple Mac users :roll:
 
Has there been a single phone or laptop made in the last 5 years that didn't use LiCoO2 in either 18650 round cells or pouch form?
 
liveforphysics said:
Has there been a single phone or laptop made in the last 5 years that didn't use LiCoO2 in either 18650 round cells or pouch form?

Best part is also the kid toys like planes , helicopters and other technological
things of the last years ... are all using LiPO pouches .... :p
and you can bet the charging electronic is not incredibly sofisticated ... :roll:
beside the risk for a styrofoam plane to be pierced with a pencil by the
smallest brother or so ... passing there ... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

have fun, and some LiPO fire .... |!|
 
Luke your posts in this thread have hit the nail firmly on the head for me, people surely are protective about their chosen chemistry arent they? and yes its so funny, I have Lipo and Lico tucked away in all manner of things in the house from my cameras to MP3 players laptops you name it, they all become slightly less useful if I know have to keep them in a sandpit out in my back yard :lol:

I just hope folks come away from this thread with the basic warning that there is no safer chemistry and something being notionally safer on paper doesnt make it any more preferable in my mind as it still has the potential even if a reduced one to cause harm, with this in mind go with the best value, lightest, easiest to assemble and manage power source and treat it like any other densely stored energy.

To me its no different than storing petrol or diesel in the house, sure they both are volatile and petrol more so that diesel,however I wouldnt keep either in the house though because they both equally have a given potential to burn my house down, with this in mind I keep my petrol, my diesel and my batteries safely in a brick built garage away from anything combustible :mrgreen:
 
liveforphysics said:
It's funny you mention that. A week ago I sat through a meeting with Paladium energy (a teir1 pack builder for OEM's, but not a cell mfg). They had some charts that showed overwhelmingly LiCoO2 batteries had the absolutely lowest rate of incident of any battery type used in consumer products.

The reason of course has roughly nothing to do with LiCoO2 chemistry being safe or unsafe, but rather because there are thousands of LiCoO2 batteries in the world for every non-LiCoO2 battery used in consumer products.

I wonder if RC LiPo is considered a consumer product and thus included in their study/survey as a LiCoO2 battery.
 
One thing I think is under discussed is end of charge voltage. Lifepo4 is almost fully charged at 3.5v, and can be taken as high as 3.8v with out damage. (in fact the signallab bms balances at 3.7v or 3.75v per cell IIRC) I think damage to the cell actually occurs above 4v, but I'm not sure.

Anyways, lipo is mostly charged at 4.15v, but damage occurs above 4.3v or so. That's almost twice the range of "safety buffer" voltage. It's why I feel perfectly safe bulk charging my daily rider ping pack to 3.5v per cell for MONTHS with out checking the voltages on the packs. As long as I don't run them low, they stay in balance. I'm not even sure what it'd take for it to "explode." The charger jumping up 20v in voltage? It'd have a solder tab in a parallel group popping off and cutting capacity in half and over discharging the cell. I'd probably catch that on the CA though. The lipo pack that I'm taking down to 3v at 10c though? You can bet I'm watching that shit like a hawk. It's really two different hobbies at that point though. The casual ebiker and the high performance recreational ebiker.

I'm sure someone can fill us in on the voltages where lifepo4 and lipo cells actually to to burn up, but it's almost pointless since there is so many different formulations.

What scares me is people posting on the ES FB group, "ok, I got 1kw of lipo, some automotive bullet connects, and an ebay DMM. What unit meanwell do I need to charge these?"
 
liveforphysics said:
John in CR said:
I'd have no problem at all selling someone an ebike that had an A123 battery pack or a Konion pack, but there's not a chance in hell I sell anyone an ebike with a Lipo pack.

I agree 100% with this my man, if we're talking RC LiPo at least. Keep in mind, aside from Tesla (who is married to an 18650 for cost reasons), all major OEM EV's have selected LiPo to power them.

There are NMC LiPo cells that blow away the safety of LiFePO4, along with having much better energy and power density.

Sorry, yes I'm talking about the RC Lipo. Put me on the list for buying better stuff, and since the manufacturers make it impossible for us to obtain I don't care if it's grey market or black market. What really sucks is that there's a Panasonic battery factory maybe 2 miles from my house, but that location doesn't make any cells useful to us. They do lithium, but it's little button cells and stuff like that. :cry:
 
Picture this with LiPo:
" wore through the tape harness I made for one half of the pack, and dead shorted various cells to the bike frame. black goo seeped out of various cells. took about 2 weeks to realize this. meanwhile, I'm charging the pack to 85v hot, and likely only on 36v of cells, so doubling their voltage?? seemed saggy to, as I was dropping it from 84v to around 40 at first touch of the throttle."

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=33357
 
Yup I have pounded my cells into the ground and had 3 below 1 volt they discharged slowly from leaving the cell logs on them and not being around the bike for a couple weeks. I have always buk charged and they work great. I think the biggest thing is just make sure you test you lipo a few cycles and once you do the bad ones will show up the good packs will be fine. And never below 2.7v or over 4.2 volts a cell and always watch the cells when discharging and charging.
 
Arlo1 said:
Yup I have pounded my cells into the ground and had 3 below 1 volt they discharged slowly from leaving the cell logs on them and not being around the bike for a couple weeks. I have always buk charged and they work great. I think the biggest thing is just make sure you test you lipo a few cycles and once you do the bad ones will show up the good packs will be fine. And never below 2.7v or over 3.2 volts a cell and always watch the cells when discharging and charging.

3.2? You mean 4.2 right? :)
 
TylerDurden said:
Picture this with LiPo:
" wore through the tape harness I made for one half of the pack, and dead shorted various cells to the bike frame. black goo seeped out of various cells. took about 2 weeks to realize this. meanwhile, I'm charging the pack to 85v hot, and likely only on 36v of cells, so doubling their voltage?? seemed saggy to, as I was dropping it from 84v to around 40 at first touch of the throttle."

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=33357


That battery was tortured intentionally and relentlessly, not exactly a reason for me to buy into that paricular chemistry, although I think Konions are cool for ebikes, as much as they are for power tools. For me lipo bricks are even better since pack build and reconfiguration is so easy. If they came in Konion chemistry, I wouldn't mind at all!

We're all riding e-bikes instead of cars since we can identify, evaluate and live with the risks and dangers of doing so. The lipo golden rule is so easy to obey, yet so many are obsessed with the magic safety feature of lifepo4.
 
Joseph C. said:
Arlo1 said:
Yup I have pounded my cells into the ground and had 3 below 1 volt they discharged slowly from leaving the cell logs on them and not being around the bike for a couple weeks. I have always buk charged and they work great. I think the biggest thing is just make sure you test you lipo a few cycles and once you do the bad ones will show up the good packs will be fine. And never below 2.7v or over 3.2 volts a cell and always watch the cells when discharging and charging.

3.2? You mean 4.2 right? :)
Yup fixed!
 
auraslip said:
It's really two different hobbies at that point though. The casual ebiker and the high performance recreational ebiker.
There is also a third category that doesn't use these for hobbies: The commuter / cargobiker, etc. like me. :)

For us, batteries have to "just work", whether that be technical types like me that can ensure they do by picking the right stuff in the first place, and taking care of it so it doesn't ever have a risk of fire, or those non-techy types that haven't a clue except that they need "this much range" and "that much power". :)

The latter dont' care what is inside the box that powers the bike as long as it just works, and arent' likley to do checks that might prevent a fire, so the battery has to take care of that for them. (which is why a BMS is a good idea for those people, but it has got to be more reliable than pretty much any of the ones currently available for ebike-sized packs, which don't always check for many of the conditions that could cause a fire or other pack failure).
 
Apple users again :roll:
 
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