nutnspecial
10 MW
Actually, maybe any cents/sense would help-
I've decided to take the plunge, being a mountain biker, and also having a few dirt and sport bikes over the years, An ebike obiously is logical, and something I never realized possible to this degree until wathing videos and reading Alot in the forum.
Kudos to all the builds and members I've read, this is a great forum. Gotta say, the best ones so far have to be tomato monster (hilarious sense of humor), Allex w/ Stealth, GC w/ Giant in DC, oh and The Aussie guy that was new in like 2013, but now has a great bike- damit I forget his name, it'll come to me. <John Bozi> There are so many, also that dude that was wanting to do pikes peak 2012- with the dual hubs I think, I read about it in an awesome Neptronix thread? I have to go back and check the tangent of the dude that got third with water cooled and how all that transpired. Sounded interesting.
My first and only fs was and still is my 99 mantra. I've lightly upgraded it to keep it goin over the past 16 years. It's a great all around bike, and I see the high pivot geometry as a benefit as it changes wheelbase with rear comp/rebound. And also it's damping characteristics when pedalling sitting down. (standing up you really should have a lockout, which I never did, so you learn to stay seated when really killing a hill.)
I wish to not make any unrevocable mods, as I'm unsure if I'll like the handling and if the light frame will even take what it's gonna get- that being said, I ride pretty rough going down, so only thing I'm changing is being able to ride hard going up too. Just the 40 extra pounds of hardware on the bike, but I am around 160lb, so I think it's conceivable.

The picture shows the headtube slackened from almost 70deg to 64/65deg- the front wheel will move about 1.5" forward with the angle change. (pretend the new longer shock is just compressed up 3.5 inch in the pic- new shock will have the wheel down on the ground)
Raise/maintain crank/pedal height at 13"/5.5"
Lengthen rear by about 6" to take wheelbase from ~40" to 46"- this will plush out the overall control and center the me better on the bike for up or downhill, or highspeed in general.
I have the air 120mm and 7" spec'd and ready to buy (nothin fancy, although hopefully the air rear will be adjustable within spec because of the greater force on it from extended swingarm &hub; and plan to fab a simple utilitarian but clean extension from maybe 6"x 1/4" channel. Thinking of a clamping style a few inches front the current dropout to avoid permanency or weakness from holes in frame or welding aluminum. The channel would continue 6/7" past current dropouts where It would also be bolted. I can then customize axle and brake placement. I was thinking aluminum, because it would mate better to the same, although steel is easier overall to manipulate and I can weld it.
The pic shows the new geometry plan, and although I might lose some clearance with mx wheels, (19 & 18 prob) The angles will remain the same.
By messing with rear axle placement and rear shock length, I can achieve the geometry changes I think will improve stability and control going up and down mountain freeriding, and definitely some road riding at a minimum of 30mph (realistically 40mph will be enough for me on this build, but on the steep in the mountain I'd like to be able to go down to 10 without pedaling ).
Which leads me to power- I have considered every hub I've come across and ~think~ the mac 12t or that new mxus will give the best power/torque at low and highspeeds on hard climbs without overheating.
I am totally up in the air because the 12t has little cogging and is lighter, but cannot take as much power if you get bored and want more speed and power (96volt). Also, no one selling on this continent, so high shipping.
edit, teslanv is the US mxus distrib now!
For those of you that have the low turns, what is the maximum speed you are getting from high volts and amps. (72& up)? Is the new version holding up in high torque applications?
edit- low turn mac's are best up to 60v and maybe 35mph; read neptronix's mac build on his findings.
Does the hub maintain the effeciency (low heat) when climbing 15mph even at the high voltage? (I'm guessing yes, you just use less throttle) how do they even compare with mxus and a low turn?
There are several threads and builds I'm yet to read on the mxus3000 (and also the mac, but gotta say dogman's 'rockclimbing' vid tells me alot). I assume the mxus will perform like cro or or big crys, in that it is heavier and doesn't like slow as much, but is just as capable goin slow when at 72v+ and 5k watt+, and can really go much faster than a mac?
I planned on 3 or 4x turnigy 6s 5a 20-30c. That's like 150 max amps? and I had only wanted 50 continuous @72v. Wonder what kind of mileage you get with demanding riding. Maybe don't even need that much at first for 5-10 mile all-out mountain biking, or longer (15-20mi) road trips w/ less elevation change and 30mph avg? (build and rider 230lbs)
edit, 5.8ah turnigy 25c holds up for good for 5mi high draw, or 10mi the way I ride and pedal with my setup. 70amps is pushing them for discharge though, and running out the pack all at once about 70f ambient warms them up. I doubled the pack modularly for 2 paralleled 5.8ah.
Now running 20s (6644) 2p (8 batteries, 40cells) 11.6ah

So to recap, I like to ride everywhere, and yes I like fast too.
Is the mantra a canidate, or would you go bigger and more $ with a dh bike. Will I ever be able to crawl up bad hills without middrive? (Dogman did say he made a long climb 5-8 mph I think with the mac)
If the mantra, will I be happy with climbing power and top speed of low turn mac? Max power input capabilites of this motor? Alternative closer places to buy than em3ev? They have some bmc on ebay from sf I think, are they desirable?
Thankyou very much, I look forward to hopefully contributing to the group!!!!!
I've decided to take the plunge, being a mountain biker, and also having a few dirt and sport bikes over the years, An ebike obiously is logical, and something I never realized possible to this degree until wathing videos and reading Alot in the forum.
Kudos to all the builds and members I've read, this is a great forum. Gotta say, the best ones so far have to be tomato monster (hilarious sense of humor), Allex w/ Stealth, GC w/ Giant in DC, oh and The Aussie guy that was new in like 2013, but now has a great bike- damit I forget his name, it'll come to me. <John Bozi> There are so many, also that dude that was wanting to do pikes peak 2012- with the dual hubs I think, I read about it in an awesome Neptronix thread? I have to go back and check the tangent of the dude that got third with water cooled and how all that transpired. Sounded interesting.
My first and only fs was and still is my 99 mantra. I've lightly upgraded it to keep it goin over the past 16 years. It's a great all around bike, and I see the high pivot geometry as a benefit as it changes wheelbase with rear comp/rebound. And also it's damping characteristics when pedalling sitting down. (standing up you really should have a lockout, which I never did, so you learn to stay seated when really killing a hill.)
I wish to not make any unrevocable mods, as I'm unsure if I'll like the handling and if the light frame will even take what it's gonna get- that being said, I ride pretty rough going down, so only thing I'm changing is being able to ride hard going up too. Just the 40 extra pounds of hardware on the bike, but I am around 160lb, so I think it's conceivable.

The picture shows the headtube slackened from almost 70deg to 64/65deg- the front wheel will move about 1.5" forward with the angle change. (pretend the new longer shock is just compressed up 3.5 inch in the pic- new shock will have the wheel down on the ground)
Raise/maintain crank/pedal height at 13"/5.5"
Lengthen rear by about 6" to take wheelbase from ~40" to 46"- this will plush out the overall control and center the me better on the bike for up or downhill, or highspeed in general.
I have the air 120mm and 7" spec'd and ready to buy (nothin fancy, although hopefully the air rear will be adjustable within spec because of the greater force on it from extended swingarm &hub; and plan to fab a simple utilitarian but clean extension from maybe 6"x 1/4" channel. Thinking of a clamping style a few inches front the current dropout to avoid permanency or weakness from holes in frame or welding aluminum. The channel would continue 6/7" past current dropouts where It would also be bolted. I can then customize axle and brake placement. I was thinking aluminum, because it would mate better to the same, although steel is easier overall to manipulate and I can weld it.
The pic shows the new geometry plan, and although I might lose some clearance with mx wheels, (19 & 18 prob) The angles will remain the same.
By messing with rear axle placement and rear shock length, I can achieve the geometry changes I think will improve stability and control going up and down mountain freeriding, and definitely some road riding at a minimum of 30mph (realistically 40mph will be enough for me on this build, but on the steep in the mountain I'd like to be able to go down to 10 without pedaling ).
Which leads me to power- I have considered every hub I've come across and ~think~ the mac 12t or that new mxus will give the best power/torque at low and highspeeds on hard climbs without overheating.
I am totally up in the air because the 12t has little cogging and is lighter, but cannot take as much power if you get bored and want more speed and power (96volt). Also, no one selling on this continent, so high shipping.
edit, teslanv is the US mxus distrib now!
For those of you that have the low turns, what is the maximum speed you are getting from high volts and amps. (72& up)? Is the new version holding up in high torque applications?
edit- low turn mac's are best up to 60v and maybe 35mph; read neptronix's mac build on his findings.
Does the hub maintain the effeciency (low heat) when climbing 15mph even at the high voltage? (I'm guessing yes, you just use less throttle) how do they even compare with mxus and a low turn?
There are several threads and builds I'm yet to read on the mxus3000 (and also the mac, but gotta say dogman's 'rockclimbing' vid tells me alot). I assume the mxus will perform like cro or or big crys, in that it is heavier and doesn't like slow as much, but is just as capable goin slow when at 72v+ and 5k watt+, and can really go much faster than a mac?
I planned on 3 or 4x turnigy 6s 5a 20-30c. That's like 150 max amps? and I had only wanted 50 continuous @72v. Wonder what kind of mileage you get with demanding riding. Maybe don't even need that much at first for 5-10 mile all-out mountain biking, or longer (15-20mi) road trips w/ less elevation change and 30mph avg? (build and rider 230lbs)
edit, 5.8ah turnigy 25c holds up for good for 5mi high draw, or 10mi the way I ride and pedal with my setup. 70amps is pushing them for discharge though, and running out the pack all at once about 70f ambient warms them up. I doubled the pack modularly for 2 paralleled 5.8ah.
Now running 20s (6644) 2p (8 batteries, 40cells) 11.6ah

So to recap, I like to ride everywhere, and yes I like fast too.
Is the mantra a canidate, or would you go bigger and more $ with a dh bike. Will I ever be able to crawl up bad hills without middrive? (Dogman did say he made a long climb 5-8 mph I think with the mac)
If the mantra, will I be happy with climbing power and top speed of low turn mac? Max power input capabilites of this motor? Alternative closer places to buy than em3ev? They have some bmc on ebay from sf I think, are they desirable?
Thankyou very much, I look forward to hopefully contributing to the group!!!!!