Looking for recommendations for 1st Ebike

I was thinking about either an Aveton Adventure 2 or a Rad Rover 6 plus step through. I'm 6'1 and 60 yo so I'd like a step through to be able to use for the coming years.
 
Those bikes are pigs that fight themselves to a stalemate. The tires are only useful for sand and snow, but the motors' power and speed range make them useless for sand and snow. Don't be fooled. Look at real bikes that real people ride with their own muscle power to do the kinds of riding you want to do. Then get a bike like that, but with motor power added.

If a bike sucks without a motor, it still sucks even with a motor.
 
Those bikes are pigs that fight themselves to a stalemate. The tires are only useful for sand and snow, but the motors' power and speed range make them useless for sand and snow. Don't be fooled. Look at real bikes that real people ride with their own muscle power to do the kinds of riding you want to do. Then get a bike like that, but with motor power added.

If a bike sucks without a motor, it still sucks even with a motor.
Any recommendations? I'm going to be riding on trails and I don't have the desire to build my own bike. I'd be looking for something that isn't too heavy, good for tall people and I'm hoping to spend around $2,000 or less. Bonus if the battery has decent mileage range.
 
Help us help you by defining what you mean by "trails." In my area, trails mean steep narrow forested tracks littered with rocks, boulders, exposed tree roots, switchbacks, dropoffs, etc.

In another current thread someone else is also talking about trails, which to them is repurposed railroad lines-- flat wide smooth, minimal grade elevation.

Two different environments calling for two different bicycle designs.
 
I was thinking about either an Aveton Adventure 2 or a Rad Rover 6 plus step through. I'm 6'1 and 60 yo so I'd like a step through to be able to use for the coming years.
The Aventure 2 is a decent bike, and between the Rad and Aventon, the Aventon is better equipped with a larger battery and torque sensing PAS. I recommended it to a friend who was looking for a factory bike and he's been riding it everywhere. He lives at the top of a hill, so has to climb about 3/4 of a mile with a 12% average grade with a couple of 15% sections. It takes effort, but the bike makes it up the hill at the end of a ride without a problem. The torque sensing PAS will be superior for trail riding. I see both models a lot and talked to a few riders. Generally owners of both bikes are happy with their purchases.
 
Help us help you by defining what you mean by "trails." In my area, trails mean steep narrow forested tracks littered with rocks, boulders, exposed tree roots, switchbacks, dropoffs, etc.

In another current thread someone else is also talking about trails, which to them is repurposed railroad lines-- flat wide smooth, minimal grade elevation.

Two different environments calling for two different bicycle designs.
Great question, thank you. The trails near me are pretty easy to ride, wide in most parts, a truck could drive down it. In some spots water can be a foot deep and there are sections that are wide with some loose stones. There are also many sections with slate stones, not sharp enough to cut tires but can be bumpy and I watch where I'm walking so as not to twist an ankle, probably would be fine on a bike with trail tires.
 
When considering motor powered bikes, you probably should also look at the slopes you have to deal with. The steeper the slope, the more power it takes to go up it (and the more heat generated if you are not riding at the bike's normal speed for a given throttle setting or PAS amount), so the system to do it has to provide more power (W) from the motor and controller, and the battery has to have enough capability (A) and capacity (Ah/Wh) to do it for the length of time and/or distance you need it to.

For instance, if the slopes are steep enough to not be able to ride the bike up without the motor, having to laboriously walk it up instead, it may take more power than some typical hubmotor bikes can provide for very long. Middrive bikes could do it for longer with less power because you can shift gears down for climbing, and you can also regear the bike for higher torque and lower speed.
 
If the water on your ride is a foot deep, IMO you don't want a hub system, and your best bet is a hardtail mid-drive on sale at one of the "majors" (Giant, Trek, Specialized); these probably are available for $2 - 2.5K.
 
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