Macwheel MX1 issue - does not ride

[FastMongoose]

Hello all!
Recently purchased, as is, Macwheel MX1 for pretty cheap price with a problem - it does not ride.
Display indicates a low battery.
Checked a battery and it actually charged and pushes 41.2V.
Decided to check brushless DC controller 36V (default). Continuity check showed that all wires are good and MOSFETs are fine. No blown capacitors observed. No visual damage on a controller board is observed neither (as far as I can tell - I am pretty new to it)
Any advice / help greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

 

[amberwolf]

is it still 41.2v when connected to the controller? or does the voltage drop?

if it drops, then it is possible the bms in the battery (if it has one) has shut off it's output either because of an overload in the system creating too-high a current, or because of an internal battery problem that causes cells to drop below lvc (low voltage cutoff), causing the bms to shutoff output to protect the cells.

when a bms shuts the output off, then if there is not much load (like just a voltmeter) on the output, it may show the correct (or close to) voltage due to leakage in the fets (normal). but when a significant enough load has been placed on it (like the controller, etc) the votlage drops, usually rapidly, to nothing or nearly nothing.


if the voltage does not drop, then something in the controller itself is preventing operation, and that will take more troubleshooting.

 

[FastMongoose]

is it still 41.2v when connected to the controller? or does the voltage drop?

if it drops, then it is possible the bms in the battery (if it has one) has shut off it's output either because of an overload in the system creating too-high a current, or because of an internal battery problem that causes cells to drop below lvc (low voltage cutoff), causing the bms to shutoff output to protect the cells.

when a bms shuts the output off, then if there is not much load (like just a voltmeter) on the output, it may show the correct (or close to) voltage due to leakage in the fets (normal). but when a significant enough load has been placed on it (like the controller, etc) the votlage drops, usually rapidly, to nothing or nearly nothing.


if the voltage does not drop, then something in the controller itself is preventing operation, and that will take more troubleshooting.

Thank you for your help!
Scooter's specifications say that Input is 42V DC 2A. Not sure about built in BMS. I am new to electric transportation =)
I will try, hopefully tomorrow, to test it with connected controller and write what I will see.

 

[FastMongoose]

is it still 41.2v when connected to the controller? or does the voltage drop?

if it drops, then it is possible the bms in the battery (if it has one) has shut off it's output either because of an overload in the system creating too-high a current, or because of an internal battery problem that causes cells to drop below lvc (low voltage cutoff), causing the bms to shutoff output to protect the cells.

when a bms shuts the output off, then if there is not much load (like just a voltmeter) on the output, it may show the correct (or close to) voltage due to leakage in the fets (normal). but when a significant enough load has been placed on it (like the controller, etc) the votlage drops, usually rapidly, to nothing or nearly nothing.


if the voltage does not drop, then something in the controller itself is preventing operation, and that will take more troubleshooting.

@amberwolf,
I just have tested and it still pushes 41.1, I even connected back all together and turned scootter on and voltage is still 41.1 on a battery.
So, is this controller issue then? Wouldn't it be easier to order a whole new controller from China?
Thank you.

 

[amberwolf]

i couldn't find details of where the display is on that unit, or what it might be able to show you.

if it still shows a low battery on the display, but not on the battery itself (if they have separate meters), it indicates a problem with the system that the display is run from. if that's part of the controller, then you'd need to change them both out (because the display wont' be compatible with a different controller, only the same brand and same model number and version).

if the low battery is still shown on the battery itself (if it has a meter) then there may still be something wrong there.

btw, if this is the version you have:
https://www.amazon.com/Macwheel-Long-Range-Non-Pneumatic-Commuting-Motorized/dp/B07MWBD9BV
then these are the startup instructions:

HOW TO START
1. Turn on the scooter, and check the power indicator.
2. Step on the deck with one foot, and slowly kick off the other.
3. When the scooter starts to cruise, put both feet on the deck and press the accelerator to engage motor.
4. DO NOT press the left brake when you ready to go, because it will active the E-ABS, the motor won't be engaged.

NOTE: The electric scooter must be moving at 3 mph(5km/h) before the motor will engage.

if it doesnt' operate by doing those things in that order, and you're sure you're going over 3mph, then something is definitely wrong somewhere; the most likely thing would be a connection (literally anywhere from any part to any other part, but the most likely are where things bend or flex or plug into each other). after taht, the controller is most likley because it's the next most complicated bit, with more to go wrong.

 

[FastMongoose]

i couldn't find details of where the display is on that unit, or what it might be able to show you.

if it still shows a low battery on the display, but not on the battery itself (if they have separate meters), it indicates a problem with the system that the display is run from. if that's part of the controller, then you'd need to change them both out (because the display wont' be compatible with a different controller, only the same brand and same model number and version).

if the low battery is still shown on the battery itself (if it has a meter) then there may still be something wrong there.

btw, if this is the version you have:
https://www.amazon.com/Macwheel-Long-Range-Non-Pneumatic-Commuting-Motorized/dp/B07MWBD9BV
then these are the startup instructions:

HOW TO START
1. Turn on the scooter, and check the power indicator.
2. Step on the deck with one foot, and slowly kick off the other.
3. When the scooter starts to cruise, put both feet on the deck and press the accelerator to engage motor.
4. DO NOT press the left brake when you ready to go, because it will active the E-ABS, the motor won't be engaged.

NOTE: The electric scooter must be moving at 3 mph(5km/h) before the motor will engage.

if it doesnt' operate by doing those things in that order, and you're sure you're going over 3mph, then something is definitely wrong somewhere; the most likely thing would be a connection (literally anywhere from any part to any other part, but the most likely are where things bend or flex or plug into each other). after taht, the controller is most likley because it's the next most complicated bit, with more to go wrong.

Thank you for your advice.
Display looks like this : https://i.redd.it/p71edbm5eiq41.jpg
I will check all other connections. I tried those steps to ride it several times when I got it.
How does all those controllers on AliExpress doing with displays? I seen some of them come with a display, but much more of them without it , however , they have a display plug...

 

[amberwolf]

did it display the correct speed as you pushed it along? if not, then that's likely the problem--if it doesnt' display a speed, it isn't likely reading one either.


regarding a new controller (if that's the problem) if you want it to work with the display on the scooter already, you have to get the original controller from the scooter manufacturer. (or if it's available from a 3rd party seller, if you can find out for certain what controller it actually is--most likely it is something custom made for the scooter manufacturer for that specific model).


random generic controllers you can probably make work with the motor itself, but not with the display. if you need a display you'd have to get a kit that ocmes with controller and display. controllers and displays are not intercompatible with other models, brands, etc., as a general rule. (exceptions to this aren't relevant to your scooter).

and you also have to make sure it actually allows setting the wheel size as low as yours is, cuz most of them are meant for ebikes and such with larger wheels. (so the speedometer wouldn't work right...even assuming it can read the speed sensor your scooter has in it).

and so on....

hopefully it is something in the wiring.

 

[FastMongoose]

Thank you again for your help.
I don't remember that it was indicating speed raise when I tried, just showing 00.0mph.
I will try tomorrow again to check again just to be sure and I will pop open that display and check wiring to the controller, if this is fine, I will probably order a new controller with Bluetooth connection so I can use old smartphone as a display.

 

[amberwolf]

if you get no speed, the problem could be the speed sensor itself, or any wire, connector, pin, etc., between it and the controller. the display probably gets the speed reading from the controller via one of the hall sensors in the motor. but there could be a separate speed sensor on the frame that reads a magnet mounted on a wheel.

 

[FastMongoose]

Well, just checked : no speed when spinning wheel/motor, same minimum charge indicator. Voltage on a battery stays the same 41V during wheel spinning, throttle pressing and other actions. Headlight works from display button. Bumper light does not work when press break(maybe just a dead light bulb, who knows).
I checked wires inside of scooter those that go from handlebar, they are good (2 sets of wires: 3 pin and 4 pin). More disassembly required to check inside of handlebar.
For motor there are 3 phase wires and 5 pin wire set. Probably need to disassemble motor wheel to check those.
Any recommendations about controllers if I decided to check via this route also?

 

[amberwolf]

the 3 wires are the phases, that acutally power the motor and make it move.

the 5 wires are probalby hall sensors, which sense the position of the rotor (magnets) so the controller can make the motor spin correctly.

one of them is usually used to sense speed as well.

if they are not working (like if the 5v or ground is broken), then the controller won't be able to operate the motor correctly or at all, *and* the system can't detect speed (so it won't even let the controller try to work).

you can go to http://ebikes.ca and the learn tab, troulbeshooting, and there are documents to walk you thru testing the hall sensors. (there are also threads around the forum, with a lot of detail, but the other is easy to find and follow).

 

[FastMongoose]

I will check that forum too.
Thank you!

 

[amberwolf]

it's not a forum, it's just a website. (technically they're actually the owners of *this* forum)

 

[FastMongoose]

Hello,

Yeah, apologizes for incorrect word.
I just have tested hall sensors, everything works.

 

[FastMongoose]

Still looking for the most suitable controller...
While doing that , I am thinking to parts swap test with my M365 in order to double check...