Methods 100V 100A Programmable Regen Controller

I replaced it by a 910 ohm

I have set the regen to 99V max and the LVC is around 85V when i set it to the max value on the software.


It work really well on my two 18 fets controllers!

Doc
 
Now he did not learn anything Doc.... not even how to search for the answer that is already there, let alone how to calculate a simple voltage divider. Gotta make people work for it a little.

Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and you feed him for life.

-methods
 
methods said:
Now he did not learn anything Doc.... not even how to search for the answer that is already there, let alone how to calculate a simple voltage divider. Gotta make people work for it a little.

Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and you feed him for life.

-methods


so true :wink:

Doc
 
methods said:
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and you feed him for life.

-methods
So whats lukes excuse? He has to go back to a brushed motor :mrgreen:
 
They are all slightly different and they all depend on the hardware values that were populated on the board.

My numbers dont really apply to anyone else because I modded R12.

-methods
 
Methods,

Is this controller still for sale??

moonshine
 
No, this is a very old thread :)

We are working on some 10hp 24 fet controllers now but it is going VEEERRRRYYYY SLLLOOOOOWWWWWW

-methods
 
reserved
 
Hello!
Help me please! I bought a 72V 50A controller and motor HS3540 front + APM e-Display,brend crystalyte. My battery is 48V 20A, when the voltage drops below 55V is off motor.Change lower cut-off with the APM e-Display does not work. What do I do that to my controller worked for 48V battery? Controller crystalyte LVC 55v how to change 42v?
Thank you! Kirill from Russia. Sorry for my bad english.
 
I am only answering because I like your bad English.

So your board will have a resistor marked R12 - or maybe it will be marked someplace else and you will have to find it. It is not hard to find... there will be a place where the system voltage (48V) runs through a voltage divider. The lower leg in this case is R12. This divider scales the system voltage so that the ECU can determine when to trigger LVC and HVC.

Lets say you have 48V system voltage.
Lets say that when that is over the divider it gives voltage X to the controller
We want voltage X to go UP so that the controller thinks you are still over 55V
To make a voltage go UP on a resistor you want the resistance to go UP.
This means that you want R12 to be larger.
How much larger? Well.. you could do the simple ohms law calculations using the value of the two resistors or you could just us an experimental method. Lets say there is a 1.2K in there - try 1.8K.

So you have do de-solder R12 and solder in a larger resistor.
Be clever and follow the traces... they will probably lead to somewhere that it is more convenient to solder in a leaded resistor.

All of this has been covered a hundred times - so please use GOOGLE to search. Select Advanced Search and enter endless-sphere as the only domain to search. You will find hundreds of posts on this subject by myself and others. Key word "R12"

Good luck

-methods
 
I got a 100 volt controller its a crystalyte made for HPC....it worked very well even had regen at 108 volts however when I charged batteries to 117.8 volts the bike would not work,,,apparently there is a high voltage cutoff??...can it be reprogrammed?
 

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Wow... Has it been this long?

Time flies when you are going 50mph on an ebike ;)

-methods
 
Are these controllers still available or is there a better controller solution out there? I upgraded the battery on my Stealth Bomber to a 100v 27ah battery and I have been blowing controllers and BMS's every since my upgrade. I would like to have my reliability back without going back to a stock configuration. Any suggestions?
 
This specific one isn't available, but there's others. Check the Online Market section for some.

Also, is that 100V fully charged, or 100V nominal? (or other?)

As noted in many places around ES, you'll find it often advised not to use your controller at it's max rating, as it's possible that any little glitch causing a voltage spike above that could pop things, depending on how close the rating is to the actual max rating of components inside it.

Why it would fry the BMS too, I dunno, unless you're just pulling too much current thru it without sufficient heatsinking.
 
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