Methods 100V 100A Programmable Regen Controller

[Arlo1]

THANKS methods I am using switch mode and every time I flashed it I went like this
50%
120%
70%
As for the reason I have had problems with stuff like this with all my different car tuning software so It is proly the computer I will be getting a new one soon!

 

[monster]

jeasus christ that controller is mother frocking awsome. i wanna see wheel spinning videos

 

[methods]

I would make you one but I smoked my 5305 with that awesome controller last weekend.

I just laced a 9x7 9C into a 20" wheel to make a "wheelie BMX".
My plan is to drive it with a 24S 5Ah pack with the sole purpose of ridding wheelies up and down the block.
We will see how long it takes to overheat.....

-methods

 

[Arlo1]

I would make you one but I smoked my 5305 with that awesome controller last weekend.

I just laced a 9x7 9C into a 20" wheel to make a "wheelie BMX".
My plan is to drive it with a 24S 5Ah pack with the sole purpose of ridding wheelies up and down the block.
We will see how long it takes to overheat.....

-methods

I wished we were nabours! :lol: I just got my second shipment of lipo now it will be 24s 10ah but I can tell you it is alot eiser to wheely with it on 50% speed setting! And I like using the brakes to bring it down but the regen hits hard! With the 110% speed setting I pull power wheelys at 45k while leaning slightly forward. I found methods though when my pack was 5ah it would go out of ballance fast because it is pulling more amps then its rated for! Oh and ps I hid my speed select switch and I turned it from low to hi and only had one hand on the handle bars while giving it 100% throtle and man thats a bad idea!

 

[methods]

Yea - the speed switch is hazardous if you have high power.
I switched mine from 50% to 100% while cruising at 15mph full throttle.
BAM! lol...
Get hurt if you are caught off guard.

I never run the 5Ah packs past 3Ah or so when they are not paralleled up.
This particular pack is usually used as 12S 2P for my wife, but when I ride her bike I swap it to 24S 1P so I can roast

-methods

 

[gestalt]

Two questions. I have a 48v 5000w brushless motor, would your contoller be a good fit for me? And second, in the very likely event that I don't drum up the cash in time to buy one from you do you think there could be a kit available in the future? I mean, I gotta learn how to do this myself at some point and to have all parts together would help out alot.

 

[Arlo1]

I have a 48v 5000w brushless motor, And second, do you think there could be a kit available in the future? and to have all parts together would help out alot.

I did mine as a kit and at the time he never offered a compleat unit but I would recomend a ready to go unit. I like working with this stuff but This was my first ebike and there is no instructions you just have to fumble through threads. And for the motor what motor is that? These bords need hall sensors on the motor they hook to.

 

[gestalt]

Arlo1,


My motor does have hall censors, it is a golden motors hpm5000b.

it's a pretty burly motor and so far the issue has been that it is too powerful. Requiring a heavy duty battery/controller combo. I have to get the controller squared away before I even start thinking about batteries though.

 

[methods]

Two questions. I have a 48v 5000w brushless motor, would your contoller be a good fit for me? And second, in the very likely event that I don't drum up the cash in time to buy one from you do you think there could be a kit available in the future? I mean, I gotta learn how to do this myself at some point and to have all parts together would help out alot.

You mean 500W right? Not 5000W.
I think this is probably way more controller than you will ever need for that motor.
I would suggest a cheaper model.

No. I will never sell kits again.

Arlo1,
it's a pretty burly motor and so far the issue has been that it is too powerful. Requiring a heavy duty battery/controller combo.

That is clearly a matter of perspective. That motor is just a little guy in my opinion. If you find it to be powerful given whatever controller you are using (I am guessing 48V 35A) then this controller would be extreme overkill.

My advice to you is to buy a cheap Infineon controller from keywin and read the mod threads. Swap the fets. Do the mods. You dont need a kit.

-methods

 

[gestalt]

noNNo, they market it as a 5000w motor and it's rated 2000-7000w bldc. Hardly puney I would say. And as this build is on a tiered budget setup I have put it together as I can aford in what I like to call "the critical path" i.e. Frame, wheels, motor, controller and then battery followed by all the loose ends like lights, horn and such.

 

[methods]

noNNo, they market it as a 5000w motor and it's rated 2000-7000w bldc. Hardly puney I would say. And as this build is on a tiered budget setup I have put it together as I can aford in what I like to call "the critical path" i.e. Frame, wheels, motor, controller and then battery followed by all the loose ends like lights, horn and such.

Oops Sorry.
I thought you were talking about a hub motor and they are 500W
I did a search and now I see what you are talking about now.
That thing is a monster.

I am pulling a 180 - this controller really is not enough to utilize that motor.
You want a Kelly for that thing.... Rated for 100A continuous and 300A for 30 seconds.....
Sheeeeeeet.

But of course you would need a 10KWH battery....

This controller could be a good match if you want to underpower the motor.

-methods

 

[gestalt]

essentially I'm getting the idea that the only way I'm going afford to get this bike rolling in less than a year is if I underpower this motor, and add onto that that the frame and components I have would probably not handle this motor at full power. Its not like controllers and batteries and components cant be upgraded at a later date, I just want to get my first bike rolling reliably until I can afford to put some proper money into it. Which probably wont be until I work another season driving the rickshaw (you wouldn't believe how much money you can make riding people around on a bike)

 

[gasfreeearth]

"300A for 30 seconds"!!!

You're putting that on an e-bike? I sense trouble ahead. I'd say build an electric motorcycle with that thing. Except it's brushless and not a hub motor. The problem there is it get's very expensive with BLDC controllers that will do 300A or more. I know, I've been looking at them to use with Markcycle's 602 Enertrac motor and they run $700 to $1200 for a good one.

For your power requirements in a non hub motor, why not sell the golden motor and buy an etek-r and controller? The 0708 etek is about the same weight, about $400, yet puts out 15 kw peak. Since you don't need that on an ebike, you can get a 200A controller versus a 300A for less than $150. It would just be a lot cheaper in the long run, and get you running a lot sooner, and still be brutally fast. Some guys use that setup on small ninja 250 e-motorcycles.

48v 200A controller for $150
http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/co-kds48200.htm

Or get methods controller for now and upgrade later. If money was an issue why buy a BLDC non hub motor?

 

[liveforphysics]

noNNo, they market it as a 5000w motor and it's rated 2000-7000w bldc. Hardly puney I would say. And as this build is on a tiered budget setup I have put it together as I can aford in what I like to call "the critical path" i.e. Frame, wheels, motor, controller and then battery followed by all the loose ends like lights, horn and such.

Oops Sorry.
I thought you were talking about a hub motor and they are 500W
I did a search and now I see what you are talking about now.
That thing is a monster.

I am pulling a 180 - this controller really is not enough to utilize that motor.
You want a Kelly for that thing.... Rated for 100A continuous and 300A for 30 seconds.....
Sheeeeeeet.

But of course you would need a 10KWH battery....

This controller could be a good match if you want to underpower the motor.

-methods

Methy- Your controller only has to be stronger than the weakest link. You controller is tougher than E-bike batteries, and that's all it has to be tougher than. He would have to be a LiPoly nutter to run risk of hurting your controller.

 

[Arlo1]

Ok so "Get monstrous power from this motor! Brushless Permanent Magnet Synchronous motor otherwise known as PMAC motor. Input voltage of 30-72 VDC. 100 amps continuous, up to 300 amps for 30 seconds.


Model: HPM5000B -- High Power BLDC MotorVoltage:24V/36V/48V/72VRated Power:2000W-7000WWeight:11Kgs

Features: Water Proof

Internal Cooling fan"
I'm in
well maybe.
It sure looks like a step towards my e-dirtbike!
And methods I would say I have a peak on my controler after getting about 50lbs of groceries toinght at 308 amps now I understand thats a peak. but if the engine is only rated for that for 30 seconds and the controler only lets it hit that for a few seconds is that not a good thing? I have pulled 140+ amps for a block at a time with your controller and it is tough. So I think like livefor says what will be the weak link is the battery as of now. This motor needs to be tested!
I want to know how its water proof and got an internal fan.

 

[ZapPat]

...
I am pulling a 180 - this controller really is not enough to utilize that motor.
You want a Kelly for that thing.... Rated for 100A continuous and 300A for 30 seconds.....
...
This controller could be a good match if you want to underpower the motor.

Methy- Your controller only has to be stronger than the weakest link. You controller is tougher than E-bike batteries, and that's all it has to be tougher than. He would have to be a LiPoly nutter to run risk of hurting your controller.

I agree with luke - a 100A continous rated kelly is 100A at the output (motor current), and I bet a Methods moded 18 FET controller can dish that out no prob and probably more? Maybe not the 300A spec for 30secs though, but there is a price difference plus method's ones accept up to 100V input compared to 72V for the kellys.

 

[gestalt]

If money was an issue why buy a BLDC non hub motor?

Mostly because I not only wanted to land this project somewhere between ebike and electric motorcycle but also to diferentiate my bike from the other stretch cruiser builds which all use hub motors. I was looking for something brushless comparable to the etek I saw used in the instructables.com build that inspired me but on a whim went with this hpm5000b instead of the mars brushless etek style job. Did I make a mistake, probably. Do I regret it, not really. Mistakes are part of the game and the silver lining is that I have this burly ass motor to work with. In the end this bike will be totaly scalable, just keep improving it as money, style and physics allow. I'm just cutting my teeth on this project and I'm a masochist who always has to do it the hard way so giving up on this motor just ain't gonna happen.

 

[gasfreeearth]

That's a good attitude and with that you will make that motor work. I checked out your blog. It's a cool looking bike! I think a high quality controller like methods will be plenty, although the motor may be able to take a little more, you may not ever really need it. Just gear it low so you get to the upper rpms faster. It will accelerate better and not overload the controller with amp draw. With less amps, it can probably thermally stand a little overvolting without trouble and better suit the capabilities of the controller.

btw, thanks for the quick shipping Methods! The controller package got here today. Now I just need to pick up my Headways from SC tomorrow.

 

[gasfreeearth]

I'm starting to try to program the controller, following the instructions on page 1.

I'm recording my steps here:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13914#p209925

I hit Start Transmit after I loaded the settings in the example program DC15AC40_34ADC.asv and got the green and red light on the dongle. It has been going for 25 min or so. How long should I let it run before it is done? It's been flashing "Transmit Guage" the whole time, so I guess it still is working?

I tried to hit start before I plugged it in, but it gives an error saying there is nothing at the Com port unless I plug it in first.

 

[methods]

DOH!

It only takes about 2 seconds to program.

So I should be more clear:

The USB end must always be plugged into the computer
You press start and it is ready to program
Once it thinks it is ready, plug the programming pins into the controller.

If you plug it all together first it will never program because the chip only programs on power-up

-methods

 

[gasfreeearth]

DOH!

It only takes about 2 seconds to program.

So I should be more clear:

The USB end must always be plugged into the computer
You press start and it is ready to program
Once it thinks it is ready, plug the programming pins into the controller.

If you plug it all together first it will never program because the chip only programs on power-up

-methods

That procedure worked perfectly!

Thanks a bunch for the quick reply. I might have been waiting on this thing till dinnertime. :wink:

Terry

 

[methods]

I am done with these controllers.
Someone else can pick up the burden.

My next thing will be 100V 6fet / 9C combo kits.
No more 18 fet controllers

I have (40) rear 9C hubs and I am going to pair them up with a custom 6fet controller that can do 36V-100V 35A
Plug and play kits only.
Some people who like to "roll their own" can get a nominal discount for taking the hubs before I wire them.

The appeal will be stealth and room for growth. Smallest controller case, lightest most reliable motor, 50mph performance on 24S.
Set up to match a wide range of high voltage low Ah batteries.

-methods

 

[Arlo1]

Whats the matter? The crystalyte contrlolers giving you problems? Just sick of how big they are? Its hard to compare to the rc stuff. I would like a smaller one but I want more power. Hmmm maybe a 6 fet and an x5 in the front wheel 2wd would be handy winter is almost here!

 

[methods]

Too much labor, too much risk.

I dont mind taking a risk on a financial investment - that I can deal with.
Taking a risk with my time is not acceptable though.
If I spend 6 hours modding a set of controllers and they take a $hit - Not only am I out $X00 but I am out the time.

I am going to move to something that involves more of my thinking/planning up front and less of my labor on the back end.
I am targeting folks who already have a kit and want a second... Not interested in the nOoB market.

-methods

 

[Arlo1]

Hu... Well I am glad I am not a nOob any more! :wink: