Modify Controller, faster than just 25km/h.

[defuzo]

Hi, I wanto modify my controller, so it will not stop driving beyond the speed of 25km/h.

I have converted a bicycle into an ebike, from a kit. A kit from Ecoride here in Sweden.

There was no fabricationmarks on the outside of the controller, but inside on its circuitboard, it says:
http://www.lsdzs.com
(was a broken link, and google didnt have much cache of it)

I have 2 question:
1. Anybody know of this controller, and know how to modify it?
2. If not, howto mach another new controller, with my existing battery/motors/censors etc (lots of wires..

Attach 2 picture, front and back of the controllers circuitboard.

Thankful for any good advise, thx.

 

[amberwolf]

There is sometimes a loop of wire (single conductor) with a connector on it that plugs into itself, that is used to speed limit. If so, unplugging that usually unlimits it.

Alternately, sometimes this is internal to the controller, with a pad for SL that is shorted to ground to turn on the speed limiter. Might be done with a jumper or resistor, either of which you'd just remove. But the labels could be abbreviated with the equivalent Chinese characters instead, or English versions of them, rather than the obvious SL.

But it could be preprogrammed to only work at that speed.

FWIW, the controller itself reminds me of the early Fusin controllers, though I doubt that's it's origin.

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

Wow, thats a tiny little controller.

Are you sure the controller is speed limited, and not simply motor/voltage limited?

It could be a jumper somewhere, but I don't see anything suspicious. It could also be programmed to not exceed 25km/h, and the easy way around that is replace the controller.

 

[amberwolf]

Oh, also, try here:
http://wayback.archive.org/web/*/http://www.lsdzs.com/
for old versions of that website.

 

[d8veh]

Here'a a picture of my controller that comes with a Cyclamatic Power Plus. It isn't speed limited and there's no external connectors to limit it it. The bike only does 15mph because of the low power of the motor, but if you lift the wheel off the ground it does about 22mph. First, you need to determine the no-load speed of the wheel for which you need a cycle computer/speedometer of some sort. If you already have determined that the spped is definitely limited to 25km/h, then there must be either two external single wires connected together or a jumper wire somewhere on the controller pcb, although I can't see one in the photo. It could also be controlled by internal software although unlikely. If your motor has a no-load speed of more than 25km/h, then you can get more power and speed by adding solder to about half of the shunt. The shunt looks like a bit of thick bare wire and lies along the pcb just behind that large capacitor. This mod will help with hill-climbing torque regardless of speed. Next possibility is that you're limited by the speed of the motor winding. You should be able to determine this by checking the motor speed with a fully charged battery and a nearly empty battery. If the difference in speed is around 10%, then the motor is being allowed to max out so that's the speed at which it can turn. So, if no controller speed limit, the only way to get more motor speed is with more volts. If it's a 24v controller like mine, it can run directly on 36v for a significant increase in speed, but you need to solder the shunt to get more amps so that the motor has the power to reach the higher speeds otherwise the motor will only drive you fast down-hill.

If the controller does limit the speed to 25 km/h and you can't find the jumper, or it's software controlled, then you need a new controller. The problem is that that controller is very small, and if it's fitted in a compartment under the battery, you might not be able to fit a different one in the same compartment. Nearly all small controllers are bigger than that one. On the Cyclamatic, it's a very tight fit, so no easy alternatives are possible. If however, in your installatio you have enough space, you can get the KU63 controller from BMSBattery. It's a really versatile reliable controller for low power installations, and will run happily at about 18amps if you solder 1/3 of the shunt. You'll probably have to do some changes to one or more connectors, which is not particularly difficult.

Show us a picture of your bike and motor and maybe someone can suggest other options.

My controller:

 

[dogman dan]

Depending on how much power and speed you are wanting, your best bet might be to sell off what you have, and start over with a more powerfull everything. You can get more out of what you have with a more powerfull controller, but then you overtax the battery, or the motor.

What you have is designed for slow, including the match of the size of the battery to the system. It won't be cheap, but you might look into something with more like 1000w instead of 200. Lots of examples here on ES. Mac motors from Cellman, 9 continent direct drive motors, Crystalyte H model motors, etc.

 

[defuzo]

Okey folks, thanx for the replies.

I noticed user "d8veh", have alsmost the same controller as me. But dont grasp what shunt issued, the bike stop accelerating beyond 25km/h (if I go faster downhill and by muscles, same payload as turned off. Full or half -full battery, just affects acceleration force in between 0-25km/h).

Found this product to resemble it:
http://web.archive.org/web/20100311203154/http://www.lsdzs.com/e/ProView.asp?ProId=322
(they call it ".. Micro Controller", dropped them a short email message, see if they respond)

The thing have a Cypress cy8c24533, uc. I found no firmware, no source. And cant find any external oscillator (to fool the clock).

There are a jumper on-board the circuitboard, labeled "enactment" (look above the tape on the backside of my photo). I tested to short it, but didnt notice any difference.

I have a oscilloscope, and measure same squarewaves/pwm of max 190Hz (against 3 wires, from and to the motor).

Cant do much constructive stuff, with this Chinese Blackbox. Wanto get a controller, that is modifiable, and have a website.

I have a 300W motor, 36V battery (though I measure 42V on full), etc. Attach a picture of the bike, as is.

 

[amigafan2003]

Yeah, sounds like the motor is voltage limited and it's not the controller limiting the speed.

Want more speed? You need to add more voltage.

 

[d8veh]

Looks like you decided to do your own tests rather than the ones I suggested. That's OK, but we're not that much further foward. You're making it too complicated and it's much more simple to sort out if you stick to simple things. Looking at that motor, it looks like a standard 201rpm Bafang SWXK, which will go to about 18mph with a fully charged 36v battery. Am I right that you have a 36v battery? I don't think you said. If my assumptions are right about the battery and motor, then your only chance to go faster is to get a higher voltage battery, which is going to cost a lot. Two pairs of 6s Lipos would be the cheapest option for 12S2P configuration. They'll give about a 20% increase in speed, but I'd recommend a new controller because your one is very small. My favourite controller for that motor is the KU63 from BMSBattery, then solder the shunt for 18 amps , and I know it works well with 12s lipos. If you really want to go any faster than that, I'd take Dogman's advice and get a new kit which is designed for it.
Edit:
Sorry, I read your post again and see that you do say a 36v battery, so I believe that my assumptions are correct. You can only get more speed with a new battery, and if you weigh more than 75kg, then you need a new controller too, and you'll be running the motor close to it's destruction limit.

 

[dogman dan]

I agree. The motor can likely tolerate 400-600w, which is about what it takes to cruise at 20-25 mph( 30-40kph) depending on wind and if it's slightly up or down hill.

You need to scrap everything but the motor, then buy a 48v controller, throttle, and 48v battery to match.

Like I was trying to say earlier, it might be best to sell off the entire kit so you get some $$ back out of it. Then you can take that money and buy stuff with 1000w potential, if you want to go 30 kph up hills. You may find you upgrade your little gearmotor,and still feel underpowered. You may be really wanting a LOT more than that little motor can do without melting.

If you just replace the controller with a throttle controlled one, you don't get any of your money back.

 

[defuzo]

Correct, Its the hub -motor that determines the speed. I asked the dealer of the kit, and he said that it was the same controller for 24'' 26'' and 28'' diameters weals. And by that, I now change the title, "howto go faster than just 25km/h"

Maybe there are a difference in speed between full, or half full battery.

Its a brush-less DC motor:
http://8fun-motor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78

I guess the hall -sensors produces the same pulses, nomatter weal size (maybe different gears inside the motor, dono). Cant find any controller, that handle both 300W and 1000W motors (dont wanto change all components at once). If thhe DC -motor had brushes, maybe one can skip the controller (no hall sensor signal down a >2meter wire).