mon-goose to MON-STER

free next day shipping newb put me onto this link http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensor-ics/1811463/

Ill get some of these, just have to find some more suitable wire / epoxy

but there is a chance still that I dont need to replace the sensor if I find that the wires are damaged axle area.... after venting it got quite rough looking around there...

thanks not to hijack your thread its just your the most experienced hall replacer I know not sure if thats a good or bad thing... :|
 
John Bozi said:
free next day shipping newb put me onto this link http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensor-ics/1811463/
Click to expand...
You beat me to it, the jaycar ones won't work but the RS link are the correct part, and as you said free shipping.
 
Thanks Hyena and pend

to be honest I am actually considering going sensorless and buying the same controller that I overvolted 40amp grinfineon.

I know take offs will suck but I am so over repairs and I can see pend has done it a million times more than I will ever want to do them. If I replace these and then they blow again for the same reason that just would shit me beyond ebiking on a hub again, and there is nobody that would guarantee that it would not have to be done again as for one reason i have no idea why it happened in the first place.

removing those many wires out of the equation from future melt downs or what have you must be worth dealing with shitty take offs and a few stutters here and there. Only having to maintain a few phase wires would mean the motor is that much more reliable.

tell me I am wrong before I give Justin more money to avoid opening up this hub.
 
John Bozi said:
Thanks Hyena and pend

to be honest I am actually considering going sensorless and buying the same controller that I overvolted 40amp grinfineon.

I know take offs will suck but I am so over repairs and I can see pend has done it a million times more than I will ever want to do them. If I replace these and then they blow again for the same reason that just would shit me beyond ebiking on a hub again, and there is nobody that would guarantee that it would not have to be done again as for one reason i have no idea why it happened in the first place.

removing those many wires out of the equation from future melt downs or what have you must be worth dealing with shitty take offs and a few stutters here and there. Only having to maintain a few phase wires would mean the motor is that much more reliable.

tell me I am wrong before I give Justin more money to avoid opening up this hub.
Click to expand...
i went that rout cos i was sick of opening motors etc.
well yeah the speed it tryes to go is very incremental and anoying. you may be ok with the slow motor and small wheel, it might smooth it out. but imo its worth using the ca v3 with ntc 10k thermistor and having sensored setup becuase its smooth and you can see and limit the temp. its not rocket surgery after all
 
my temperature readings are still working fine. Are you saying the 4065 is a slow motor?

you went sensorless because you were sick of opening up the hub, but then changed your mind and have replaced halls how many times?
I'm sure I'd manage to do them it's just I hate pulling off the rear wheel even to change a tyre.

I prefer to take off once and get a hole heap of things done then keep taking it off for each little thing.....
That's why I vented and changed wheel size at the same time.
Having a back up controller that can run both modes won't be bad anyway, because I can predict the lyen will blow mosfets or something eventually.
 
on the Scott spark, I found the wires seemed to be okay but could find the issue. it was giving me the shits, i should have replaced the wires from halls to plug but i didnt. I replaced the controller with a sensorless one.

anyway yeah its easy to throw $200 at it and "be lazy" like i did, if you have the money. its a good controller for what it is. and its tiny for how much power it puts out, it does get warm. compared with my lyen running twice as much power in a case about twice as big. the packaging is really nice with hose over all the wires and the auto hall sensing is cool, very plug and play, 2 rates of ebrake as well if you want to set up a switch for that or a 2 stage ebrake lever. maby 1 brake = soft and 2 brakes = hard. that would be cool.
 
was going to pull the trigger until I saw this info which I cant calculate without a running bike.

from robbie

88V is the 'max' battery voltage we'd recommend with this system. The 13000 eRPM is the sensorless limit for the controller to operate on, take your number of poles and multiply it by the RPM at 88V and you've got your eRPM.
Click to expand...

anyone can do the math for me in 20" wheel?
 
thanks Pend,

it is actually 20" not 21" though.

It's a 19" rim but with the fat kreepy crawlers bout 20"

what happens at its limit? suddenly skid? go into reverse? start to shudder?

anyway still considering it as a back up, have ordered sensors and started pulling apart the wheel. Even opened up the controller to look around - lots of shaky caps floating around on two little bits of wire just waiting to snap.... grinfineon rarely had cut outs - smaller caps let parts i m guessing....
 
John Bozi said:
thanks Pend,

it is actually 20" not 21" though.

It's a 19" rim but with the fat kreepy crawlers bout 20"

what happens at its limit? suddenly skid? go into reverse? start to shudder?

anyway still considering it as a back up, have ordered sensors and started pulling apart the wheel. Even opened up the controller to look around - lots of shaky caps floating around on two little bits of wire just waiting to snap.... grinfineon rarely had cut outs - smaller caps let parts i m guessing....
Click to expand...

You are not referring to the Maxxis Kreepy Crawler are you, its called a 19.5" unicycle trials tire and comes on a 15.5" rim I think. If this is the tire, I think it will be horrible for a high powered ebike, because the rubber compound is SOFT with a capital S.
 
Rix said:
John Bozi said:
thanks Pend,

it is actually 20" not 21" though.

It's a 19" rim but with the fat kreepy crawlers bout 20"

what happens at its limit? suddenly skid? go into reverse? start to shudder?

anyway still considering it as a back up, have ordered sensors and started pulling apart the wheel. Even opened up the controller to look around - lots of shaky caps floating around on two little bits of wire just waiting to snap.... grinfineon rarely had cut outs - smaller caps let parts i m guessing....
Click to expand...

You are not referring to the Maxxis Kreepy Crawler are you, its called a 19.5" unicycle trials tire and comes on a 15.5" rim I think. If this is the tire, I think it will be horrible for a high powered ebike, because the rubber compound is SOFT with a capital S.
Click to expand...

No its a 19" mod trials rim and yes unicycles use it too. AT 2.5" wide (some have measured it say its more like 3" it comes to 20" height. Yes soft is not good as it wears down fast on bitumen, but off road it grips perfectly and its tough and feels like your riding on a cloud. I cant compare it to anything but 26" hookworms and usually mountain bike tyres but it is the grippiest for mountain climbing.

its relatively cheap and easy to get a hold of around $40.
1907664_10152539576254845_5548612872068595523_n.jpg
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152539576254845&set=a.10152149607104845.1073741826.531544844&type=3&theater
sorry pend we are off topic thursdaying
 
That is the tire I thought it was. Yah compared to the hook worms its way better. But if you get tired of it and want a much longer lasting rear wheel tire combo, go with a MC rim 17x1.4 with any trials tires in the 2.75-17 sise. The outside diamter will be around 22-23" and it will hook up, and last better and longer than the tire you are currently running. Of course there is a weight penalty of about 3-4 pounds more.
 
Rix said:
will be around 22-23" there is a weight penalty of about 3-4 pounds more.
Click to expand...

there's a reason behind my madness,

maximum decrease in unsprung weight without losing maximum grip

and

minimum size bicycle tyre for maximum hill climbing hub.

It's called torque. It looks ugly but my bike will doo doo over anything running the same power source up the mountains. Except of course if you wind yourself or mid drive it of course.
 
John Bozi said:
Rix said:
will be around 22-23" there is a weight penalty of about 3-4 pounds more.
Click to expand...

there's a reason behind my madness,

maximum decrease in unsprung weight without losing maximum grip

and

minimum size bicycle tyre for maximum hill climbing hub.

It's called torque. It looks ugly but my bike will doo doo over anything running the same power source up the mountains. Except of course if you wind yourself or mid drive it of course.
Click to expand...

Hey John, I totally get what your are saying, acceleration performance first, everything else second. :twisted: :mrgreen: I like your style.
 
Oh by the way if you use hookworm tyres on wet clay, you can expect to stack.

Slid out on a dirt track on the way home from work experience. Just for comedic effect I landed in the middle of an inch ant nest. So I didn'thave time to lay there and savor the moment. Had to do the "ant dance" . I was cracked in clay mud.

Bent a cranck but got it back easily in the vice with a hammer.

Poor old monster just keeps copping it.

I want to upgrade my ca v3 firmware but it won't connect .I posted in the ca v3 thread but no replies.
 
as usual gopro is never on....

sorry to hear dood - but let me take a predictionI

your front wheel slid out.

right?

anyway I have the theory that hookworms rock for the rear as we can handle the tail slide out but if your front steering wheel slides out its like hello ground. Im probably going to buy an aft kit and go back to 26" for off road riding and Im still considering keeping the hookworm on the back because they just last for ages and roll.

I rode off rode for ages with hookworms but the front has got be as grippy as possibly
 
AXLE BROKEN tench made it good but my ca is playing up and I can't get it to take off smooth. Its so annoying. I want to cry. I was spending hours each night this week testing it, changing one variable at a time and it would keep pulsing on take off. And again axle breaks. Seems like no one else has had this happen. I was trying to update the ca so Icould make it smoother and use fast upramp for when I'm already moving. But it won't update either.

I'm frocking devastated that this axle has cost me about $2 per kilometer. $200 axle gets less than 100km WTF.
I adjusted the settings over and overfor hours trying to dsmooth it out but it wouldn't smooth out unless ridiculous slow. Then the pulses of torque just ripped through the axle channel again. Might as well have used a cheap axle and saved $150.
 
sorry to hear again man - youve had nothing but the brunt of ebike disasters.

i dont know why you have the same thing happen many times

what are you doing? is it solely the ca telling your motor to dumb shit or it the controller or youve just programmed either so they are not compatable.

ever thought of just switching off the ca and putting on a stock no programable controller just do a stock set up..?

To me it seems your experimenting (which is cool) is the cause of the pain.

Id be much better off if I had nt tried many things with my bikes so many times bikeless as a result but you know you just want to find out whats possibly better....... possibly
 
It SHOULD work if setup so it doesn't pulse. I had it set for soft acceleration but wanted to take of harder. Hyena and Snowchyld both said it takes off too slow. I wish it was easyer to setup the ca . its cost me a small fortune in axles and the bike being off the road for half the time i own it. I really wanted to ride it to work experience tomorrowand Friday hoping they would see me electronics skills (electrician employer). Could take Scott spark but its a bit ghetto in comparison.
 
I had to laugh at the ant thing, I remember when I lived in Qld there were these nasty jumping/fire ants that would make your whole leg go numb if they bit you. I rode through a giant nest of them one day any they all came spewing out of their holes like a volcano erupting. I lifted my legs up high and I could see them flying up at me but thankfully I got away!

That SUCKS about your axle. I can't believe you broke that strong thing! Was the axle actually shifting with the torque or just the sudden jerking application that killed it ? Strange that you're seeing this with the CA3. I dont have vast experience with them but it sounds different to anything I've found. Are you sure it's not a bad throttle with an intermittent fault that the CA is just passing on ?

If it's any consolation, when I killed my H40 recently at the EV race I only got 7 laps of the circuit, so 7km from a brand new motor. That's several times more $/km than your axle failure, and that's not including the crown axle I snapped the day before! :lol:
I was planning to rewind the motor but I know realistically I'll never get around to it. So if you aren't wanting to spend another heap on a new axle (and fair enough!) and want to throw me a few bucks you can use this H40 one to get back on the road fairly quickly. Just turn the current in the CA right down until you get it working smooth, then turn it back up.

Also, try upping your phase current and leaving the battery current alone. That will give you more low end shove.
 
Hyena said:
I had to laugh at the ant thing, I remember when I lived in Qld there were these nasty jumping/fire ants that would make your whole leg go numb if they bit you. I rode through a giant nest of them one day any they all came spewing out of their holes like a volcano erupting. I lifted my legs up high and I could see them flying up at me but thankfully I got away!

That SUCKS about your axle. I can't believe you broke that strong thing! Was the axle actually shifting with the torque or just the sudden jerking application that killed it ? Strange that you're seeing this with the CA3. I dont have vast experience with them but it sounds different to anything I've found. Are you sure it's not a bad throttle with an intermittent fault that the CA is just passing on ?

If it's any consolation, when I killed my H40 recently at the EV race I only got 7 laps of the circuit, so 7km from a brand new motor. That's several times more $/km than your axle failure, and that's not including the crown axle I snapped the day before! :lol:
I was planning to rewind the motor but I know realistically I'll never get around to it. So if you aren't wanting to spend another heap on a new axle (and fair enough!) and want to throw me a few bucks you can use this H40 one to get back on the road fairly quickly. Just turn the current in the CA right down until you get it working smooth, then turn it back up.

Also, try upping your phase current and leaving the battery current alone. That will give you more low end shove.
Click to expand...

im running a 2.2:1, phase:battery i think. maby that has something to do with it but really i cant see why that shold matter. I just want to tune it to be able to go WOT from stand still and take off as quick as possible without a stutter. I'm obviously doing something worng. It's my favorite thing and it just keeps braking and having issues.

seriously i spent monday, tuesday and tonight tweaking it trying to get it to run smooth. i cant reprogram it with the cable (tried 3 computers and both me ca v3's) ... no bingo... i think im going to send the ca back and get Justin to flash it to prelim 6 so i can use the fast ramp. that way i can set a slow up ramp to reduce or stop pulsing and have responsive throttle while im at speed. then i need a new motor or axle.. so sick of everything. waiting, droping off motor and axle etc. agh. what a hasttle. also dont have any savings to throw at it cos i been studying electrotechnology and not working.

edit
also the axle was locked in well tight this time. done up real good with allen key bolts in the torque arms.
 
John Bozi said:
from a newb guess if one part of the bike expects WOT but the motor is at a stand still maybe the halls are just going spastic going how do we turn on and off this much power?
Click to expand...
nah
they just sense north and south magnetic feild of the rotor.
switching is done by the fets.
im so pissed off about it all. trying to upgrade and do the right thing by tuning and reading the unoficial guide for the CA V3 , testing and changing 1 setting at a time. It's enough to give you the shits !!
 
pendragon8000 said:
John Bozi said:
from a newb guess if one part of the bike expects WOT but the motor is at a stand still maybe the halls are just going spastic going how do we turn on and off this much power?
Click to expand...
nah
they just sense north and south magnetic feild of the rotor.
switching is done by the fets.
im so pissed off about it all. trying to upgrade and do the right thing by tuning and reading the unoficial guide for the CA V3 , testing and changing 1 setting at a time. It's enough to give you the shits !!
Click to expand...
Another option is just to go with the greentime sensored/sensorless controller. I'm using them on both my phasor and raptor at the moment. phasor is running censored with the 80amp 24 fet and the raptor is running the same controller but sensorless. unless u are on a hill u don't notice the difference.
 
Rodney64 said:
pendragon8000 said:
John Bozi said:
from a newb guess if one part of the bike expects WOT but the motor is at a stand still maybe the halls are just going spastic going how do we turn on and off this much power?
Click to expand...
nah
they just sense north and south magnetic feild of the rotor.
switching is done by the fets.
im so pissed off about it all. trying to upgrade and do the right thing by tuning and reading the unoficial guide for the CA V3 , testing and changing 1 setting at a time. It's enough to give you the shits !!
Click to expand...
Another option is just to go with the greentime sensored/sensorless controller. I'm using them on both my phasor and raptor at the moment. phasor is running censored with the 80amp 24 fet and the raptor is running the same controller but sensorless. unless u are on a hill u don't notice the difference.
Click to expand...
I don't see how that will eliminate pulsing from the ca v3.
 
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