mon-goose to MON-STER

[Rix]

Thanks. I'll think about it but I love pedaling at 55-60kph.
I found this:
H4040 "40kph @ 48v" http://e-mtb.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66&products_id=204&zenid=66ef5c9f5c42a14e8ea9488a84727fea
Is this new?I guess they would be very similar to ht3525.

The 4080 would be a 4040 on 36v and not much difference in wind from the 3540. The 4065 is close to the 3525 and the 4080 is really close if not identical to the 3540 in terms a stator winds. As Jay said, the stator is 5mm wider along with the shell and magnets wich is whey the 40xx series weigh about a 3/4 kg more than the 35xx. So not a huge difference in weight. Having spoke with people who rode the pre 2012 fighter with the 35xx and the new 2012 fighter with the 40xx, same volts and amps, the 40xx was noticeably quicker taking off, but top speed hasn't changed much at all. Sorry to hear your repair didn't work. If you were looking for an excuse to upgrade to the H4065, here you go.

Rick

 

[John Bozi]

Just to remind anyone of the emtb specs. As I have bought a full kit from there.

4065 @ 48v is only probably 65kmhs when you hold the wheel of the ground and give full throttle.

On flat ground, on hookworms, expect 50 kmh. I never really get over a few ks over that. Think of the stealth fighters stats top speed of 50kmh.

 

[Hyena]

Any advice any one? (Other than bin it... thank you)
...tested signal wires and all stay at 5v while turning wheel.

Frock indeed. Don't you hate it when that happens!
This is around the time I get the shits and swap in a sensorless controller or put it in the back corner of my workshop for a rainy day and throw on a new motor.
If you're getting 5v on all signal wires it's odd, I'd be checking your wiring and looking for a short - maybe around the axle exit ?
But you shouldnt really get it on all 3. cowardly duck posted about this same issue (or similar) in the stealth thread the other day and I've seen it a few times before too. It could be heat or it could be a voltage spike from the controller. Seeing as they have to come out again anyway when you unsolder them check for continuity between the +5v and the signal wires - that will tell you if there's a short in your wiring. The other consideration is the halls themselves, I didnt check the datasheet but the model number is not one of the usual ones fitted to our hubs (ie along the lines of the honeywell SS41)so they may not actually be suitable for this ebike application.

Before abandoning it (get a sensorless controller and sell it, dont bin it) I'd get some SS41s and check your wiring both before and after solding in the new replacements (before connecting the and powering up the controller)

 

[pendragon8000]

Thanks Jay, yeah I was thinking a miraculous 3 way short? So checked continuity of halls signals to positive and wasn't 0 ohm or close, more like 1M or something.
Yeah maby the halls from Jaycar aren't compatible but I read it and checked the diagram and it looks the same as the application, in that branded side faces magnets and return low or high signal (<2.5 or >2.5) depending on north or south pole magnet pole adjacent. But I'm just getting 5v all the time. I guess I can order a few halls from ebikes.ca and try again. I'll pull it apart and see what the signal voltage says .I'll do more testing...

Thanks Rick and John for the info on the motor.

Also Jay yeah I saw cowardlyduck's post and PMed him about it. He's had no luck either AFAIK.

 

[Bill Nye the science guy]

would the halls need a slight load on them. try the method of using a resistor and led to show if the hall is switching on and off. the multi meter may have resistance too high to let the voltage bleed off before the hall comes back on again.

i dont know the resistor value needed

 

[pendragon8000]

would the halls need a slight load on them. try the method of using a resistor and led to show if the hall is switching on and off. the multi meter may have resistance too high to let the voltage bleed off before the hall comes back on again.

i dont know the resistor value needed

Cheers Bill, i wasn't sure where you were coming from at first. I'm actually tapping into the wires while the motor is connected and controller is on. So I see what the controller is getting on the signal wires.
I didn't power them and have just the multimeter on the signals without the controller connected.
I'm thinking these halls are super heat sensitive, or they are wrong spec(orientation or something)

 

[pendragon8000]

ok, so i pulled the stator out and pluged it into the controller. still got the same results - all signals reading 5v

also note, all of the hall signal inputs on the controller have 0v when its turned on and no motor /halls conected.

so it must be the hall AGAIN right. this is so stupid! guess ill go to jaycar and buy 3 more and see what voltage they give if i hook them up.

any ideas how to do heat shrink without over heating the sensor? hair dryer? im considering just embedding the leads in epoxy or liquid electrical tape.

 

[Architectonic]

According to: http://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Testing_Hall_Sensors the controller has a pullup resistor, so it will read 5v when no halls are connected, the hall should then switch to 0v when passing through the magnetic field. Otherwise, is your multimeter stuck some sort of peak holding mode or something and therefore doesn't want to show you when the voltage drops to 0v?

 

[pendragon8000]

According to: http://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Testing_Hall_Sensors the controller has a pullup resistor, so it will read 5v when no halls are connected, the hall should then switch to 0v when passing through the magnetic field. Otherwise, is your multimeter stuck some sort of peak holding mode or something and therefore doesn't want to show you when the voltage drops to 0v?

thanks man, i read the link. still everything points to burnt halls imo.

ok im reading the data sheet again... im not sure, i think this is the wrong type of hall sensor.

time to email Justin...

 

[pendragon8000]

OK now I've read this I'm fairly sure I've got the wrong type of hall effect sensor.
http://bildr.org/2011/04/various-hall-effect-sensors/
Good little piece with a video.

 

[Architectonic]

Perhaps it might be a latching sensor which got stuck on when placed in the motor?

It does sound like different sensors are the go.

 

[pendragon8000]

Perhaps it might be a latching sensor which got stuck on when placed in the motor?

It does sound like different sensors are the go.

Got a quick reply from justin ebikes.ca he said i most definately dont want liniar halls like i used. and referd me to digikey that i did see previosly for some latching style

digikey part# 480-1999-ND
http://www.digikey.com.au/product-search/en?x=15&y=21&lang=en&site=au&KeyWords=480-1999-ND

Output Type - Digital, Open Collector

Jay as you said "honeywell"
ahh this is a releif.. hopefully shipping is prompt.
guess ill lace this 3525 this long weekend.

Thanks Justin (again)

 

[Bill Nye the science guy]

good work! atleast you guys are just starting into some good weather. though is it ever really bad?

 

[pendragon8000]

we got a 3 day weekend, and down south the weather is awsome, maby not so much for the east but should be ok. just finished a shitty bit of storm aound the south to east quater of the continent, 140kph wind etc. but yeah the skirts are getting shorter now

 

[Spicerack]

RS components here in Aus sells SS411A halls which are the same thing as ss41's as far as our hub motors go. I got some from them online and they arrived pretty quickly. 3 bux each.

Good luck...

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensor-ics/1811463/

Free next day delivery (for Eastern States- mine took a couple of days)

 

[pendragon8000]

RS components here in Aus sells SS411A halls which are the same thing as ss41's as far as our hub motors go. I got some from them online and they arrived pretty quickly. 3 bux each.

Good luck...

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensor-ics/1811463/

Free next day delivery (for Eastern States- mine took a couple of days)

thanks for that, allready ordered, hopefully doesnt take too long.

heres some epoxy paint on the hub rotor soke flange/madnet ring:


should be dry tomoz nd il lice in the new spokes and alex dx32 (39mm)rim
its only 1mm wider than the crystalyte rim but hopefully its a better alloy.

 

[pendragon8000]

I thought I was a clever using a can crimped to hug the disk mount and stop spray paint getting in the threded holes.. but some congealed V drink dribbled down onto the paint, had to respray that bit.

a few years ago I made a geodesic dome for aquaponics(fish and plants in a self sustaining system)
I thought I'd show the wheel sitting on it just 'cos

wheel came out ok 8)

i made a new light like the monster one for my scott spark cos the chineese 12watt one died.

24watts, gives me a head ache to look at it. still needs reflectors and acrylic plate on front.

 

[John Bozi]

Jealous of that rim on there.

Next time you have a problem with the internal workings of the hub remember the congealed V. :lol:

So does it all work now?

 

[pendragon8000]

Nah , I'm still waiting for the hall sensors. I haven't even got an email about payment received. But I tidyed up the Scott spark and its got a 24watt led light and standard rear bike light. That gnarly rear light was an eye sore(literally , 15watt)

 

[pendragon8000]

 

[pendragon8000]

As you can see above I put tape over the worse with epoxy holding them there because there's bugger all clearance between windings and side cover.
so I tested it and its working again
Yay. With new paint and rim and spokes I'm about to take it out with Scope, just charging from 3.85v /cell with 2 bc168's atm.
And the weather down here is choice. Bit hot nice breeze.
Happy days

 

[John Bozi]

so your

[youtube]1TD_pSeNelU[/youtube]

if so great. I just had a great ride and stacked the frocker.

 

[Hyena]

As you can see above I put tape over the worse with epoxy holding them there because there's bugger all clearance between windings and side cover.

Ah, I was just about to post "nooooo dude, don't put tape there on the lams!
I take it you've removed all tape now that the epoxy is dry ? Tape inside the motor like that would melt and cause a nice mess all over the magnets.
Glad to hear you're rolling again. Happy days.

 

[pendragon8000]

As you can see above I put tape over the worse with epoxy holding them there because there's bugger all clearance between windings and side cover.

Ah, I was just about to post "nooooo dude, don't put tape there on the lams!
I take it you've removed all tape now that the epoxy is dry ? Tape inside the motor like that would melt and cause a nice mess all over the magnets.
Glad to hear you're rolling again. Happy days.

Almost... intermittently. I think a wire in the axle is shirting or loosing connectivity.
Strange thing...
Holding pedals in certain position makes it stay on. So I suspect its shorting and when bottom bracket connects, it shorts to the controller shell or front light. Strange. Scope managed to ride to the city and back and as he doesn't own an ebike wasnt complaining too much to ride it.

 

[pendragon8000]

btw Jay, ofcourse i took the tape off [insert Jay's love of tape joke here] . i ws know for using tape to make every thing to don't worry.
Bozi. aghh bit depressing. ill sort it out, just peplace hall wires i guess.

you guy notice the clamping scisors? handle over the axle holding it in place.
edit
heres willie i relate to:
[youtube]XSWOwH2Faf8[/youtube]